LA_357SIG

You can also get a set of DPMS anti-walk pins. I use them on my dedicated .22 build. They break hammer pins alot.

Keep them. If you decide to sell the weapon, put the original parts back on and sell the upgrades seperately.

1.) Wouldn't shooting it again knock most of the rust out? 2.) And you guys have some strange cleaning habits. I just run some hot water down the chamber end in my kitchen sink (about 1-2 hours after I get home from the range) , push a couple of dry patches to get the water out and then run some wet patches (Hoppes no. 9 oil) through until it is relatively clean. My bore has no pitting at all and has well over 800 rounds of Bulgarian surplus through it. I never used a brush yet and accuracy (for a Mosin anyway...) has not degraded too bad to notice.

Ain't that the truth... I went through the gambit of arming the wife only to cost me more money in the end. I bought her a Bersa Thunder 380 and she carried it and liked to shoot it until it would close the slide when you insert a magazine. The slide stop also broke some time later and I deemed not suitable for self defense. Then I bought and sold...Geez, lets see: Ruger SP101 in .357 XD-9 Taurus 66 ...Sold for a loss 'cause she didn't like something about them. Glock 19 (Kept that one for myself) and finally bought her a S&W 386 Night Guard revolver in .357.

So far I like it. Tried some different kinds of ammo through my son's E.R. Shaw 18" Stainless Barrel. I didn't get any FTE with the VQ exrtactor. What worked: CCI Green Tag, Blazer, Federal 325 TGP and 550 bulk. What didn't work out: Winchester Xtreme HV and Remington "Match Target" I know 25 yards isn't much of a real test but the FOP outdoor range was being used by Jackson's Police Dept. (2 days in a row) so I went to the indoor range. Also this isn't a very good test because the benchrest I was using was a plastic cleaning station and wasn't very sturdy. AND the scope is just a loaner from my Gamo Whisper air rifle. Anyhoo....some results. Not a real good representation here. I rushed through this one and didn't have a sturdy position on the rest. CCI Green Tag I guess this Winchester would be better in a faster twist barrel.

I wouldn't say that too fast. I'm on my second 880 round case of Bulgarian 148gr 7.62x54R and I bought my Mosin for a year. I regularly shoot 50-80 rounds per range trip when I bring my M91/30. I especially like to bring it out when the bench rest shooters are shooting thier $2000 uber rimfire .000001 MOA rifles trying to get that perfect group. Sounds like a Howitzer between the stalls.

Cheap and fun to shoot..... I'd say a used SKS. Out of the box they are fun shooters without all the tacraptical aftermarket parts it has for it. Until I modded my own I was strongly anti 10/22. But for the $450 (total) I spent on my son's I'd say it's worth doing at least once. Before the 10/22 I bought my son a Marlin 795 for $99 @ Dick's. The stock sights suck but $75 pair of Tech Sights made a world of difference. Mags were $15 each @ Gander Mountian. AND finally I bought a TacSol .22lr upper for my AR15 and that is what I shoot the most now.That was the smartest firearms buy I made in a long time. I can't remember when I could afford to shoot over 500 rounds in 1 range trip since 2006.

5.56x45mm 6.8x43mm 7.62x54R 9mm .22lr .45ACP

Personally, I see no need for any other finish on a handgun other than Parkerizing or E-Nickel. If its Aluminum or Stainless then maybe the boutique finishes may be in order. Now I am interested in DSArms nitriding finish they are doing on thier AR barrels. that stuff is supposed to be tough as nails.

Oh, and although I try to support local buisnesses as much as possible I rarely find parts in stock locally at a reasonable retail price + sales tax to not try to buy them online.

just curious but why go with a basic carbine buttstock when running a 20" barrel? Have you considered an A1 or Magpul PRS stock? ....And just to throw it out there DSG Arms has the complete Magpul stock, grip, buffer, spring, and receiver extension for $99. it also comes with a carbine length handguard. http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/MGMOEKITBLK.aspx Spikes and Bravo Company both offer complete Bolt Carrier Groups with all the preferred "tactical operator" upgrades and quality checks. and finally unless I missed something are you going to get handguards or a free float forend?

Liquid RIT clothes dye. Look on AR15.com and M4carbine.net. There are tutorials on how to DIY. Mostly P-mags and light colored AR furniture. You can also make stencils from electrical tape to make camo patterns.

This is what I used. Wear nitrile gloves and in a well ventillated area. (2-3 min and it will all wrinkle up. Scrape it off with wood or plastic.)

I used Tal-strip on my 10-22 to get the paint off. It works really fast (2-3 min) and wet sanded with wd-40, 220 and 600 grit sandpaper. Then I polished the outer receiver with #2 soft metal polish on a drill mounted polishing wheel. I didn't want it super shiny so I didn't finish with the 1000 grit paper. I also dyed my trigger guard and trigger black. Heat the water on a stove around 6 and it will dye really fast. Added a Boyds Tacticool stock, ER Shaw barrel and R/T auto bolt and mag release. Close up pic of polishing.

For polishing and buffing work I would not recommend using a dremel. It is way too fast even on its lowest setting. A better option would be a buffing wheel and a drill (arbor?). Mibro #6 is the easiest to find and use. Got it @ Lowes.

Was this the red loctite? I had a bottle since 2006 and I've put a dab on just about every bolt on my firearms and though they have never come a loose I've never had trouble removing the bolt w/o using a soldering iron or excessive heat. Maybe I'm thinking about the blue loctite that's a PITA to unlock.

BTW Don't get too carried away with the pimpining..... Like I did.

I did the $0.25 trigger job on all my Glocks. I also did it to my EDC G19 sans 3.5# connector. Way too light IMO. I don"t recommend using a dremel on this. I usually use a q-tip and a rag. Personally I like to do it a little at a time. You can take alot off with a dremel that you can't put back. The $0.25 Glock trigger job

A '74 Charter Arms Bulldog Tracker .357 I got from my step father. (first gun I ever shot) My Glock 19 (3rd Gen) Just the best CCW I carried so far. Sold my other CCW's (M&P40c, G17, G27 and G32)

Started out as a Stainless Ruger 10/22. RIT dyed the trigger guard and trigger. Boyd's Tacticool stock E.R. Shaw 18" stainless barrel R/T Auto bolt release and pull back mag release VQ extractor Power Custom Scope base Under $450 including rifle. Luckiest 9 y/o in the world.

BCM middy upper CDD lower Magpul ASAP Plate adapter, MS2 sling, MOE grip and Buttstock SEI 1st gen Vortex Aimpoint M2 YHM BIUS DPMS anti walk pins.

My advice is if you're not married to that barrel is to just buy an already barrelled A3 upper and sell your A2 to cut down on cost. By the time you buy all the tools and vise block, time invested in learning how to do it right, and the likely hood that you will change barrels enough times to justify the cost of setup, or send it to a gunsmith, the new upper will cost way less.

Marlin 795 w/ Tech Sights.