Jonnin

Have you considered the recycled car tire boards?  My FIL has his deck steps made of the stuff.  It for sure won't rot in our lifetimes, and it generally behaves like a board.  I think you can paint it too, but it will never look like real wood of course.  There might be other synthetics out there that will do as well ... fix it once, never again?

Neil would be among my top 20 least favorite people.   Just another entertainer turned politician.  Worse, a bigot on top of it. 

I didn't watch it but I did note that the stillframe placeholder ... every liberal in the audience (and they are, always, screened to ensure only BHO fanclub can see him)  is frowning and grouchy looking.

  This is good advice.  Theres a 10-15 min window (longer for very fit, younger folks) where you put something like this on and it feels good even if its totally wrong.   After that if its wrong you will start to feel it, slowly, and it gets worse but by the time its really hurting you its too late (on a hike) ...

  I have had 3 or 4 very dependable Taurus pistols.   I actually have more POS s&w guns (3) than I have had Taurus (1).   S&W fixed one of theirs, and Taurus fixed the 1 of theirs, but that still leaves me with 2 junkers ...   one is that escort 22 that has yet, in 30+ years, to fire a magazine without a malfunction.   One was an airweight and the cylinder cracked.   I can't recall the third one its been gone a long time.

Very nice pistol, you can't go wrong here.   I ended up with a sig 938 instead,  but the s&w was on my short list when I was looking.  I gave both a good test drive ... totally personal preferences made the final decision as there is nothing at all wrong with the shield.

  Heh I was about to say buy it now until I realized the 765 was a pistol :( Gunbroker has the hsc @ 300-500 depending on its condition and such.  At the worst 300 is a break-even point it looks like; you might turn a profit. There are too many walthers for me to be sure what you are talking about here.  If its 300 each, youll need to figure out the value.  If its 300 for both, go for it.

if the primers are "bad" that probably means they were stored improperly or were bad from day 1 at the factory.   I have shot thousands of primers from my dad's stockpile and can't recall a single one being bad, those were easily 50 years old.    There are only 3 real options ... they were made wrong, they were stored wrong, or the gun isn't hitting them hard enough.     Regardless,  I see nothing wrong with selling them locally.  I think shipping them is going to incur a hazmat aggravation (?).     Just explain what you know as best you can and reflect it in the price.  I would buy them if they were a good bargain ... because my gut feeling is that unless you KNOW they were stored in a damp place or dropped in the swimming pool or something else the issue is most likely just not hitting it hard enough. 

  Any thoughts on keeping the smoke down though?  Or are you just doing a small enough  batch that it does not matter?  Whats a small batch anyway... 1 pound near 2 boxes of most handguns?  

All I can think of is going weird .. you could *try* something like this...  you could put your lead into a disposable but very clean container that you can seal.    Melt it and once liquid you can tap/vibrate/etc it for a "while" (the idea is to float junk to the top not shake it up and mix it in... don't over-do it!)  This should make the junk float to the top because the lead is heavier than all the crud (ideally you would centrifuge it here, but we are going for a the best approximation of that you can get).   Let it cool.   Saw/cut/something the dirty lead off the main chunk.  Save this, maybe someday you can flux it and clean it somewhere, but you can't use it right now.   Now re-melt the clean lead and use it (take it outside before you open it. Do not breath the fumes!).    Before you do this for real and make bullets,  do a test run and cut into the "clean" lead to see if it really is indeed clean.   You might even want to look at it under a magnifying glass and cut into it some.   You do not want to shoot crud down your barrel and scratch up a barrel.   You could also coat your bullets after making them to try to minimize this risk.   /shrug someone might pipe up a way to improve this idea or explain why it won't work; I have not tried this and am going purely off what I think should happen.  By the way the reason the container being used is disposable is that you might damage it getting the lead out.  For example if you used a glass jar you could break it and get your lead chunk.   You got to have a way to get the lead out and it is likely to "glue" to the sides and bottom of whatever you melted it in.  I got no ideas here on what you might be able to get easily.  Glass won't melt.  Other metals should survive the process.     /shrug you could try it.  Worst that can happen is it does not clean the lead and does not work out.    You probably need a couple of nods at common sense and safety here...  you are going to build up pressure inside whatever you heat up.  This needs enough airspace to neither blow the lid off nor explode.   Like, 75% of the container being airspace, or even nested containers like "lidless thing inside much bigger thing with lid").   I like the lidless inside bigger idea more...  but be careful whatever you do.    

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WOOT-LP   whatever that means to people that do TV things.   The last bit says its channel 31 and might move to 38.  Whatever that means.   I thought all this crap was digital / internet now and "channel"  was meaningless? 

the key to a heavy pack on a long haul is the belt.  If the belt on the pack is good, it will put the weight onto your hips.  With a hard frame and a good belt, evenly distributed weight is a good approach.   Non solid frame packs are tough to carry a heavy load; here again a belt is critical and you probably want the weight down low on this type.   But I wouldn't try to carry a heavy pack that is putting the weight on your shoulders or hurting your back -- if its doing that no matter what you try, odds are the pack is not suitable for the job.

  The victory is going to have a LOT of accessories.  It was designed around the idea of being a tinker's platform.  They are not on the market yet, but within 2 years  you should have a ton to choose from including lightweight builds.   Within a couple of  years they may start offering the light builds etc as a stock option instead of a replacement (expensive) approach.   Who knows?   I think this line is going somewhere, but there isn't a lot of point in running out to buy the first one on the shelf unless the stock initial build is what you want...   I am going to be keeping an eye on this line.   My current ruger 2.5 looks just like that one ^^^  but I rebuilt it from my mk II and made many mods.  I like the weight, but its a very heavy pistol.

Good to know.   Ive tested mag pistol primers vs standard and never saw any difference but I have never tried magnum rifles in a pistol.  I would have thought those would pack a notable punch.

If your loads are mild you can probably just shoot them without incident if they will shoot.    A mildly loaded 44 in a stout old ruger revolver is going to be fine.  A past the redline hot 44 in a cheap pistol might not be fine.  Even better if its the 44 special, put those in a 44 mag and it will be fine ... a hot primer isn't going to push a 44 special past 44 mag levels.   the 45 acp would worry me a little but you said it wasn't them.    SO it comes down to if the 44 mags were loaded hot or not.

  You can make crude priming compound in a variety of ways from strike anywhere matches to pure black powder (which ignites if struck hard, think old time toy cap guns) and a few other similar substances.   Making the metal cups might be tricky -- I do not know if used primers could be salvaged and reused a few times each or not.   I don't know if you could make a working cup with a 3-d printer or not.    My solution is that primers are just a few bucks per thousand.   If you shot once a day for meat a box would last 3 years ... stack them deep while you can?   You could also think outside the box.  We don't really need a primer.   A future home-made  gun could have a battery, a switch for a trigger,  and you heat up a lightbulb type wire where the firing pin used to be, melt thru a piece of tape and on the other side of the tape is your powder....

well of course if you get the lead free its going to be virtually free bullets.   FWIW buying pre-made cast LEAD bullets in bulk is "almost" the exact same price as buying *quality* lead ingots from a trusted source.   If you are willing to risk dirty, impure, hard, and generally aggravating lead sources,  that price can go lower for the lead blobs.     But if you are paying for the lead, you are going to be saving just a few cents over buying cast bullets.    Cast bullets are a significant savings over copper plated though.     I do not cast.  Ive done it, and I don't like it and the savings isn't there.  I learned how and put it aside.   But for reference I can get 500 9mm cast bullets for less than $40 to my door, and I think there are cheaper places but I have some loyalty because the place I use has some oddball calibers that I need.  That means that you would have to cast for less than 8 cents / bullet, which is very doable.   I saw a 1 pound pure lead ingot for 10 bucks.   That is 75 light 9mms.   That is ... 7.5 cents each and you have to sit there and DO the casting which is time consuming.   I saw a 25 pound bag of lead shot (shotgun pellets??)  for $2/pound.   But I don't know if that stuff is usable or if it has some weird coating or whatever???    So if you want to save "real" money you need to find someone selling scrap lead (old boat ballast or plumbing or whatever) so you can get 100 pounds or something for a few bucks and then you have to purify it yourself which is aggravating.  You could potentially do it for less than 4 cents / bullet or less if you really worked hard on the economics of it.  All I can tell you is try to find some lead for sale, convert the # pounds to grains,  divide that by bullet weight, figure out how many rounds it makes @ the cost and see for yourself.

22s will set it off sometimes.  Its not reliable. 

  Its just a version of anfo.   You can make it with disel fuel and fertilizer or you can buy the aluminum mix at gun stores (in some places) or you can just buy a bottle of reloading powder.    It don't take all that much.   A pound of reloading powder is 7000 grains.  a 9mm uses 5 grains or so.   1/10 of that 1 pound bottle would put that stump in the neighbor's window if you compressed it and directed it and all that.'   If you MUST blow something up, at least study the physics and be very careful.   Novices who blow their legs off and so on do so because of 4 common mistakes - they didn't understand how much they actually were setting off - they forgot that if the explosion is more powerful than the containing / directing structure, it will send said container in pieces out as shrapnel - they underestimated their fuse/detonation device and how fast it would go after being lit. - they didn't get far enough away fast enough.

  I was speaking of children.  If they are old enough to get high off something, they are now an adult in my eyes.   I have a harsh view on that .. they stop being kids when they start to murder, rape, dope, assault and in some cases stealing (circumstantial, not talking about grabby a toy from another infant here but intentional theft like beating someone up and taking their lunch money).   Small children are not going to drink very much bleach.  

Unless that is YOU, posting a name and phone number on the internet publicly is bad form.   Ive located people with less info. 

Apart from paying the triple whammy fees (pay extra to ship b/c its a gun, pay FFLs possibly twice..) I have a couple of suggestions..   - FFLs can send guns cheaper; I think they even have an "in" with the post office that allows it somehow.  So ffl to ffl with them doing the shipping is cheaper if the FFL is honest they won't charge you anything like the overnight/danger/gouge price of UPS or FedX.     - its cheaper still if he has a very good friend that he can trust to store it for him; perhaps you are not the best choice?    - Depending on estimated length of deployment, a gun range might have a place to store it that is cheap.

  You shouldn't need to clean it off.   You lube only the outside of the case and by the time its been through a sizer die, a powder die, a seating die, and a crimping die the lube is pretty much gone.  The traces that remain are probably beneficial to mag operation and feeding.  Lube should be "barely there" to being with before it goes into the first die.    I use hornady's lube which is really just lanolin and something ... microwave it for a few sec and touch the lube with my finger and roll the case over that is sufficient.   You can't even see it on the case.

  Yep, that can happen.  Its thankfully usually the steel that makes it here, the brass berdan is rare. Um ... steel cases ... you do remove those ... right?  Those could be tough to resize too :)   A good magnet is the usual method.

crimped primers can make pushing the old one out hard.