alwaysonjohn

you get to use bipods? You may want to look at the vertical grips with built-in bipods although the bipods don't work as well. Don't forget to save up for a light, case, 5 pmags, and a sling (check out the patrol vest sling that attaches to body armor from Urban ERT).

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_16/503947_AR15_Ammo_Forum_FAQ.html glowdotglock: if you get bored look at #7 Also, if you get bored read the ammo oracle #2 but that will be several pages. dolomite: Yes, for benchrest you wan to get the slowest twist rate that stabilizes the bullet. owners of 1/9 barrels have had problems with 75 and 77 grain. as ar15 says it could depend on the length of the bullet among other factors.

how far were you shooting it caster?

glowdotglock: is the barrel marked 1/9? If it is just remember you can shoot 77 grain (though i wouldn't make a habit out of it), but it won't stabilize and accuracy over 100 yards will suffer. but if you're shooting with your buddies you will be fine. I love the quad rail and it looks like you are set, other than an optic and rounds.

if you really want a sport, get one from budspolicesupply.com and use D&T for a cheap transfer. they have some in stock for $555. You just have to e-mail them a picture of your badge and id to confirm you qualify.

Jewell Benchrest triggers for the 700 Platform are 1.5oz to 3.0oz with it factory set at 1.5oz. Way too light for my taste. The one i'm getting is the varmint which ranges from 1.5oz to 3lbs with factory at 1lb.

my department has bushmasters too (with a 1:9 twist which is probably why our ammo is 55gr), but with that said you can carry your own if you qualify. Is this just going to be a training rifle to learn from or will this eventually be a patrol rifle? Did you pick a red dot yet? I'm using an Aimpoint PRO, but i am starting to like a buddy's Micro T-1 since its smaller. The Eotechs are more popular in the department. I use a BCM EAG Tactical upper myself, but that upper gets pretty heavy which is another thing to think about. Looking for a used AR is also something to think about, you can get a good deal in the bst section for red dots also so check there often.

Here are some youtube videos on the 6920 which was in the $1000 price range from the OP From Hickok45 (fellow Clarksvillian, make sure you subscribe to his channel to help him out!) BTW he put on a bump fire stock in the beginning! Using a SP6920 AKA Sporter Using a LE6920 AKA Law Enforcement Only (that they sell to anyone)If you save a little more you can get into Daniel Defense M4s, for a while I wanted a V5LW. Local dealers have cheaper prices than what you will see on their website. BCM (Bravo Company) quit selling complete guns to the public but you can buy seperate uppers and lowers. Spikes tactical also makes some cheaper end models that are really nice.

I am not dissing Dolomite, he's helped me out in the past (recently on disassembling a 1911), the main point we disagree on is what features should be in an entry level gun. I personally don't like the sport for some features that are missing. It's pros are that it is reliable as long as you take care of it, S&W is a good company and they will stand behind their products, and they have been found as cheap as $600. With that said, you need to know why it is an entry level. If you are going to list pros then list some cons too so they can decide. Some items you can't upgrade on an AR without spending a significant amount of cash. I forget that most people here are recreational shooters though that will be happy if the ar goes bang every time, I just don't want to give them the impression that there $600 AR can compete with higher end ARs. Also, I have never considered a thread complete if everyone agrees on one starter AR, that's just not fair since he should be searching the internet comparing ARs for the next two weeks while he scavenges enough money to get one and some bullets to go shoot. Thanks dolomite for the latest post to explain for me... And yes, I agree that its a heck of a gun for $600.

I haven't met one cop using a M&P sport. There are many other better S&W M&P ARs that are made a ton better, the sport was a model that cut costs which is what the buyer should be aware of. The cheapest AR (aka entry level) I recommend is the 6920, that doesn't make me a colt fanboy and I don't currently own one. I personally like Bravo Company/spikes and some higher end rifles (noveske, lwrc, etc), but as for the bottom end lets atleast have a standard and the sport does not cut it for me. The 5r hype has died and people have gone back to the 4 groove, 3 groove, and 6 groove. The 5r is not a negative, but its not a plus either. Most barrels are sought because of who makes them: Noveske for ARs, Bartlein Krieger Lilja Obermeyer for Precision http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/5_R_Rifling-c1246-wp6676.htm

For starting with a carbine length I always recommend going with a Colt 6920. That is the gun that all guns are compared to. If Milspec is considered the bare minimum, then why would folks recommend a gun that is not even Milspec? Some things to keep in mind with the sport: 5R Rifling is a marketing gimmick as confirmed by those at Krieger. Go to their website to learn how they did not find any differences in their Oberymeyer approved 5-R rifling and their normal 6 groove rifling. The hype comes from a few folks that claim "its logically easier to clean" and the groves are "strategically alligned to never fall opposite to another groove" to make it more accurate. However winners of precision matches have won with just about every rifling ever made including 3 groove barrels from Lilja. The melonite coated barrel is a small advantage over manganese phosphate, but the jury is still out on how much of a difference in logical wear and tear (who actually is going to shoot over 100k rounds) and if it effects the accuracy of the gun (just like any lining would effect the accuracy of the gun). Twist rates are important as Dolomite explained, but 1in7 is the most popular for ARs since most people shoot between 55 and 77 grain. I like buying the 62 grain penetrator rounds off the internet in 420 round cases on stripper clips. Resale value? Not that you will ever resell your AR, but Colt is a name that everyone likes and it will keep its value. No Forward assist No Dust Cover The finish of the barrel looks different Magpul BUIS versus real IRON sights Regular Feed Ramps vs m4 feed ramps Commercial Tube vs milspec tube Castle Nut not staked (easy fix, but still) No MP Testing on Barrel plus its 4140 steel (cheaper steel that has a melonite finish) No chrome lining on bore or chamber (yes you can still chrome line underneath melonite). Other parts in the gun have been chrome-line as milspec requires though (gas key and bolt carrier) I know the Colt cost more, but for the above listed reasons it’s the bare minimum I would recommend unless this gun is just going to be shot for fun a few days a year and sit in the safe the remainder. I hope this would never be a duty rifle. As far as chambering and short/long throats, that is something I am studying as I will be getting my custom 308 chambered soon. When you reload you can really play with custom throat lengths and bullet loading, but most folks wouldn't want to get stuck shooting with just custom reloaded ammo. Pretty much like Dolomite said a long throat means more fps since the bullet has no resistance for a longer time, a shorter throat hits the rifling sooner which slows down the bullet and creates a loss in fps (but supposed greater accuracy due to hitting the rifling sooner). If anything is incorrect about the sport in this post please feel free to correct.

Just look at the safes at the safe house and write down the prices of the ones that fit what you are looking for. I went to the Safe House and decided that $2000 was a more logical budget for a 24 gun safe. Also, start thinking of a way to get the safe from where you buy it to inside the house, whether you do it yourself or pay someone (which can be up to another $200). 800lbs is going to be a nightmare unless you have four friends, but even then stairs and doors suck and what would you do if your friend pulls his back while helping you out (beer doesn't fix backs)! If I bought another safe my rating scale would be: Gun Capacity and Layout: Get a safe that can fit the guns you want with accessories on. So a 24 gun safe in reality will maybe fit 12 and so on. Also look for good layouts that are changeable in the future (height or placement) along with door storage systems that you like. Also measure the area where you are putting the safe so you don't buy one that won't fit. Don't try to fit a 36 gun safe in a closet, its not realistic. Burglar resistance: Just make sure the safe is heavy, particularly the door, and that the door matches up well with the safe. Most burglars in police cases I have seen have taken the entire safe or used some object to pry it open (which is why I would never buy a gun vault because they would just take the little box). Fire Resistance: Read the labels on the doors but most are impossible to compare unless its made by the same company. The reason being is that the temperatures are usually different which makes the "burn time" impossible to compare. Rust Resistance: Make sure you get one that seals well and has the capability to place a dehumidifier rod in it (you can always get someone to drill a hole for the cord if you are comfortable with that, or if you didn't bolt your safe down you can place the cord through the bolt holes). I used to place EvaDrys in my safe till I bumped one causing it to hit the ground and release TONS of little beads. Speedy Opening: Make sure you get one that you can open quickly just incase of a fire where you want to empty it or if a burglar enters your home and you happen to be by the safe. I love digital locks for this reason, when you are stressed they can easily be opened. Some new digital locks allow external power sources that plug into the digital lock in case the internal batteries are dead. Some digital locks also have the ability to program two seperate codes where you can give your significant other or best friend a code and disable or change it later. Interior Lighting: Whether you can add it later or have it built-in, interior lighting is a must for bigger safes in order to see inside! Price: Of course this will be an important item in determining your safe. Where its made: Lately this is a topic of debate among this forum so if you want an american made safe do your research and get one. I honestly don't care about where mine was made since I value function above all. Sometimes different models are outsourced so if this is important make sure you research the model and Brand of the safe. Weight: Weight should be a last concern, but it should still be a concern. Placing 800lbs (EMPTY) in a spot in the house should be a well-thought plan. Also note, that the more options and the better fire ratings come with a heavier safe. Questions for the place where you buy it: Shipping: Ask if shipping is included in the price. They will normally ship it to your house (well the outside of your house) within a 4 hour time period so make sure you or someone close can be there for delivery. Inside Delivery: Ask how much to unbox the safe and place it inside your home at your designated resting spot. Warranty: Ask them about warranty procedures on the safe if the lock or other part of it does malfunction (most places will fix it within the manufacturers warranty, but some places will say you will have to deal directly with the manufacturer). Also, ask if they have a discounted service to customers to open the safe in case a burglar did try to pry it open. So my advice is to write down the information to these questions for each safe that fits the size you are looking for. Then debate it when you get home and compare prices and debate it more. The safe house (av88tor) is a premier sponsor and many here have dealt with him. Safes has also been here for a while and he is an authorized vender and a great guy to deal with.

7.62 with a 16" barrel. I would like to know too how this semi-automatic performs out at 400+ yards. I hope you got a scope! Please keep us updated!

ratty, way to resurrect a three year old post... any ways I have seen several while fishing at LBL.

I personally like the acs and ubr. both lowers i have are UBRs.

Just note that most manufactures offer custom bases such as 0, 10, 20, 30, 45MOA cants. Just go look on Brownells. I would think that if your scope is already zeroed at 100 then you can count how many clicks are available in elevation. Then calculate that number into MOA's and use a ballistic calculator to see how many MOA's of elevation you need to shoot something at 1000. To use a ballistics calculator accurately you need to know the fps/weight of your bullets, etc. but even without that information it will get you decently close. If you don't have that many MOAs of elevation then adding a custom base cant will raise your zero that many number of MOA. I hope this helps. 20MOA is the most popular for Remington 700s using the 308 caliber. My custom Rebel Defiance (based of the 700 platform) that is being built will have a 20MOA cant.

I just purchased a Galco Combat Master based of your review. Looking at the pictures it looks like something I would want. So far only two pistols of mine dont have leather holsters so i will keep looking. thanks for all of the great suggestions. I'm still looking for a bullard that's in stock.

Sorry Mike, but maybe I can clarify for you. You have ZERO Rights to be on private property. So if the manager does not want you there for ANY reason they can give you a trespass warning stating that you are never to come back, or atleast that's how it works in Clarksville. They don't have to justify their reason, they just have to clarify to you that you are notified. I don't have to "cite" you references on when this happened, since it happens all the time, just ask any police officer who is familiar with criminal trespass notices. Maybe some guys here have gotten one and wants to chime up?

if price is a concern, go for 9mm. Otherwise, everyone has their favorite caliber and their opinions as to why. If we could all agree on one, then there would only be one caliber (.45 in my opinion). There are stores that have ranges and will let you rent their guns (such as guns and leather). Glock is a perfect out of the box killing machine, especially for folks who don't take time to clean and take care of their firearms. They are also very easy to breakdown completely. With that said my favorites in no order: Sig 220, Sig 226, Sig 229, Sig 238, 1911 (any make/model), Glock 19, Glock 22, Springfield XD, S&W M&P. If you don't want a polymer gun, because of whatever reason then look at Sig, but be willing to open your pocketbook a lot wider than you thought.

you will have to order them. You can always use a set from advanced armament just remember what size you need 5.56 or 7.62 etc. You will also need to use Rockset around the threads since the muzzle will get too hot to use locktite. So you need shim kit (start with the smallest, then remove and add the next size till you find ONE that works) rockset (to put on the threads) It should cost around $15 for both

What are your guys go to companies for owb leather holsters? I only wear owb at court or quick runs to the gas station, but which companies do you recommend? I do like kydex, but i feel nothing beats real leather. I have a holster from American Holster Co on the way (the High Ride) so i don't know how comfortable they are but they looked like a good deal, but what other brands do you guys go to? My guns that still need holsters are a glock 22 and a sig 220 if that helps.

i just respond to anyone that asks ("I have a permit to carry"). I don't show them my carry permit unless they own the place or if its the police. Just know that your attitude, specifically being rude to a person asking, will more than likely end up with the manager not wanting you to come back (with the cops coming out with trespass notices) for creating a scene whether or not the "concerned citizen" or "customer" should have asked you in the first place. IMHO don't open carry unless you want to bring attention to yourself.

I have not encountered a situation where "remaining silent" stopped them from going to jail. I have seen several situations where talking has provided officers with prudent information to go a different way. If you're innocent you're going to want to make sure the police officer knows that. Invoking your right to a lawyer does not mean we are going to wait around the precinct till your lawyer shows up. It means that I'm not talking to you anymore and you're going to jail and once you go to trial then i'll talk to your lawyer... just my .02.

Make sure you put a good number of 230 grain through the pistol if it is new. I have had several friends complain about their 1911 when it just took 500 230grain rounds to break it in, then it was reliable.

i got a samsonite tectonic from amazon. It was pricey but I think it was worth it. The sunglasses pouch is padded along with a separate padded laptop compartment that I have fit my 15" and 17" laptop inside.