GlockSpock

So, at 12:14 he claims that is not an adjustment ("this is the one with the fixed jet"). Should this be screwed in all the way or 2.5 turns out like you suggest? Ok, so the idle speed is what I was messing with last night. I think I'm close.

Hmmm...thanks! I'm going through right now to the points you mentioned. For the governor, what timestamp are you talking about?

Quoted only to bring attention to my above post.

Well, I have some more information. The first thing I did when messing with it this evening, I tightened that brass main jet up. Then I started looking at one that the video shows at 17:43. I messed with it a bit, attempting to see how it worked. In doing so, it started running much, much better. However, more importantly, I discovered that I had failed to attach a link the other day, as shown here: I reattached that, optimistic that this was the problem and would fix everything. It took my about 30 minutes, and I came very close, but I just couldn't get it. I eventually adjusted that screw shown at 17:43 in quarter turn adjustments. It would idle very, very good. I could throttle up most of the way. However, most every time, at full throttle it would die. Engaging the blades would kill it. It would drive though decently. At some point, I hit rock bottom, this is the current state of the engine: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0me7w16bj4znzth/Video May 07%2C 3 54 09 PM.mov?dl=0 (That link should take you to a Dropbox video showing the noise it is making). So, unless that linkage came loose the other day, I literally have zero idea how I mowed at all with it disconnected. Also, more relevant information: Craftsman Mower: 917.270810 B&S Engine: 42E707 I never called myself a mechanic, I'm just brave enough to give things a try. Generally, with enough reading/Youtube, I can figure most things out. This is stumping me. I wish I hadn't messed with that one screw today, I wish I had noticed the 17:43 screw first. Ok, so help me help you all out. In the original video: 12:14: Main jet, not adjustable? 17:43: What do you call that? Peejman, you were mentioning mixture adjustment screws, do I have them?

Well, it's a tough situation I think. If she truly "does not want anything to do with guns", then you may be inviting more issues than you are solving. Pistol safe that could be secured? That means either bio-metric, combination, or key. With the last two of those options, you possibly have the issues of either forgetting the combination or location of the key, or the inverse problem where the key is stored in the lock or the combination entered already. Both of those options introduce the possibility of her roommate or other guest gaining access to the firearm at a party, etc. I won't even pretend to know what the laws are in Chicago for such a thing. Legal or illegal? I don't know. I'm just saying, if she truly does not want it at all, I personally don't know if "forcing" the issue is the correct answer. At least not without some proper conversation and planning behind the issue. If you go for it, sit her down and explain why you are doing so (to help you, Dad, sleep better at night) just in case she needs it. Explain to her safety issues, and that likely her best bet is to not disclose the location of the firearm to people coming over.

I know. I usually respect that, greatly. Yet when I fixed steering the other day, I was eager to get everything running and I went to the nearest gas station without even giving a second thought about ethanol because I didn't remember to. I don't think that caused any issue (letting gas sit there over winter likely did thought). I'm optimistic about getting this going tonight.

Right, so thus a 50% seafoam and 50% gas (that is 100%, no ethanol) mix. Right?

I think a potential issue is that I was "adjusting" the main jet, I'm going to go home and screw that all the way in. According to the above video, that should be screwed all the way in. Secondly, I guess I never messed with the actual idle adjustment at all as seen at 17:43. I'm going to go home, try screwing the jet in all the way as needed, and then turn that adjustment 1 full turn, slowly, counter clockwise. If that doesn't do anything, then I will reverse it back to the starting position.

You mean 50% seafoam and 50% gas (100% gas), correct? So, ~16 oz seafoam and 16 oz gas.

Interesting note, I just watched more of the video I posted above. At 12:14, he mentions that the screw that I considered a mixture setting is a fixed jet and not an adjustment. Perhaps I need to keep it screwed in all the way.

I have slightly checked for vacuum leaks, I'll spend some more time with that tonight with a flashlight. As for the vacuum operated diaphragm, I think so. The fuel pump is attached to the carburetor and operates off a vacuum. Unsure exactly what you mean by "slide". I'll check the hoses (air and fuel) that I can. Think I should try anything regarding the carburetor without dissembling it?

Didn't replace the float, but replaced the needle and cleaned all operational parts in the carb as much as I could (but still not confident it was 100%). I had planned on running it dry at the end of the season, but when the steering broke I forgot all plans to do so. My mistake. If tonight I cannot magically make it work by checking something simple (plugs, battery, etc), then I suppose it may be time to break the carb down again and give it a take two.

19.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Twin Turbo Craftsman Mower So, first I will attempt to give a bit of a backstory. In 2017, the last time I mowed I lost steering on my riding lawn mower. As such, I pushed the whole thing into the shed and let it sit over the winter. A few weeks ago, I fixed the steering issue. It works great now! However, at the time, I cranked it up and it would only run on full choke. Anytime I closed the choke it would die, 100% of the time. My research showed that was because it wasn't getting enough fuel. So, over the last week, I rebuilt the carburetor. I used this kit from Amazon.com. As painful as it was to watch, this following video showed me what I needed to perform the rebuild: This guy knows what he's doing, I just wish they would quit trying to be actors and just show me what I need! So, Saturday, I completed that job and also changed oil. Cranked it right up and it ran better than it has ever ran for me before. I mowed ~80% of my yard for about 20 minutes. Then it started having issues again. Since then, I cannot get it to run full throttle. Even on full throttle, it sorta rumbles around and never runs high enough RPM to do anything. The choke is "in" or "off" when running, which is better than a week ago! At this point, I "messed with" the fuel/air mixture a bit by screwing/unscrewing the single adjustment screw on the carburetor. I haven't had much luck with it. I think I can get it back to close where it needs to be by screwing it ~80-90% in. What I've checked so far: Spark Plugs have fire (I haven't removed them yet, planning on checking that tonight to look at the gap) Carburetor seems to be getting fuel and enough of it (opening the plug at the carburetor drains gas out of it) Fuel filter seems to have good flow (disconnecting fuel line above filter and it flows freely out of from the tank through the filter) Gas Cap (supposedly an improperly sealed gas cap can cause issue, I've tried it with gas cap off as well) Air filter (it is dirty but I've tried running it with it off. Perhaps a bit better but unsure this is the problem) Battery (I've made sure the cables are nice and secure) Gas (Admittedly, I had a complete brain fart and put ethanol gas in in after fixing the steering. After fixing the carburetor, I suppose this ethanol gas was what I ran for 20 minutes. When I started having these issues, I drained at least half the gas out and replaced with 100% gas. There is probably still a certain percentage ethanol in the tank currently) Here are my plans for tonight: Pull each spark plug and inspect gap and spark Possibly replace fuel/air filters Attach booster cables to see how it runs with juice from my car. I don't think it would be a battery issue but it will be quick to try in diagnosing. It cranks from the battery and shows charging "+" on the dash when running. I have learned a lot throughout this, but generally feel pretty dumb right now and don't know exactly how to proceed. I don't want to break the carburetor open again but will if I have to, at least I know how this time. I'm wondering if running optimally for a few minutes may have broken something loose in the fuel line or carburetor and clogged something in the carburetor. I did try my best to get it clean but I'm open to the possibility I didn't do a good enough job. Also, ethanol seems to be the worst. I usually put 100% gas in it but since that was the first time of the season I completely forgot. If need be, tonight I can siphon all the gas out of it and try 100%. Also, when I was rebuilding the carburetor, a small strip of paper in the kit instructed that I soak one of the pieces in oil. I didn't do this as I couldn't determine which part it was (it gave a part number). Now I'm wondering if the carburetor worked for a while but since I didn't oil something that caused something to become brittle, etc. I'm looking for things to try. Maybe there is something that I'm not thinking of. EDIT: To anyone that watches the above video, I have the three screw fuel pump version.

I still really, really like Tapatalk. Yes, I "give up" many "features" that the forum itself has, however that trade-off is worth it in my opinion for the pure ease of use on a phone. I'm using the one on iOS by "Quoord Systems". If I'm not mistaken, this is a "legacy" version in comparison to "Tapatalk Pro". However, they have literally changed marketing, branding, and "direction" so many times I may be wrong in this. I've noticed that recently other forums I use have dropped Tapatalk entirely. I fear that Tapatalk's place in the forum world is sliding, and fast. For selfish reasons, I hope it sticks around but wouldn't be surprised if they turned belly up at some point and stopped maintaining the server side plugins and whatever services needed to keep the product going. My wishes that it be fixed and restored, if it ever goes away entirely my forum usage as a whole (TGO and other forums in general) will probably be 1/10th of what it is now.

20 to 30 cents a round? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shame on you all! I came here to post this very thing, but see I was bested. Touché.

Just from the video I knew it was Cold Steel. Years ago they sent me a free DVD with hours if this stuff. I watched most of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But if it is all “that bad”, then shouldn’t you be concerned about living there and likewise report it now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See, life doesn't suck for you. You are getting away from that mess and into what will likely turnout to be a better place! Then you can you, in time, find whatever place you love just as much or more.

Oh, it sounds like for sure he'll be moving

Eh. Stuff happens. This doesn't make your life easier but I respect the owner's right. It's his property that he owns and lets other people live in for money. There are laws regarding this sort of thing, but if he follows the correct procedure he can and should be able to "evict" anyone with zero cause at all. That's how freedom is supposed to work, anyways. His property, his say. Now, I think there is something like 30-90 days from the time he "evicts you" that you have to actually be gone. I think there are probably certified letters involved. My thoughts? Either do the right thing or do the right thing. I too was in a somewhat similar situation (landlord wanted to sell the house as fast as possible, I didn't want to stick around for "home showings" and a possible new landlord. I moved out and as quick as possible. If you have somewhere to go, you could leave immediately and not pay another penny in rent. That'd cut potentially a few thousand out of his pocket over the next few months, as he knows he isn't going to sign another six or twelve month lease with a new tenant. He could go month to month, but that'd sure be screwing someone over renting to a new tenant knowing you'll kick them out in a few months. You could theoretically stop paying rent. He could serve you eviction notices early, but it'd still take 30-90 days (estimated) to actually get out. Again, do the right thing. Just be cordial. Pay rent when you live there. Don't go nuts yanking out sinks and putting broken ones back in. Most people in that business care not about the tenant, but only the money coming in. I wasn't late for 5 years of renting, fixed stuff as well, even patched a few drywall holes before leaving (but didn't paint). I had to fight tooth and nail via the real estate company managing the place (I went to school with the owner's daughter, they were on my side) against the landlord because he didn't think we deserved the $300 in safety deposit we put in back in 2012. We finally got it.

I had convinced myself over the weekend that I’d buy a 19x to try it but then found out about the magazine issue that you speak of. Sorta destroyed all plans in that simple fact alone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In all seriousness, I very much doubt this "someone" is a member of TGO.

There was more to the story, as in, that person absolutely hates the company we work for. So, that wasn't the first nor the last time he's caused us trouble.

Yes, I was going to say this. Having experience in a similar field, it is rather a quite common thing for homeowners to go absolutely off the wall regarding ROW (Right of Way) or easements. A lot of times these workers get threatened themselves. @conn_air7 was once, to some extent, threatened to be "confronted or killed" for turning the company truck around in someone's driveway.