tercel89

hahaha good point and thanks !  :usa:

I have heard of this too but after all these years of owning Glocks I have realized that a STOCK GLOCK is the best and wont let you down . 

I know you want a Beretta but the CZ 83 in .380 is excellent ! IT has the option of "cocked and lock" carry and it better built in my opinion and I have had 2 . They are great . And way more better to disassemble and detail strip .

I have one but after paying $875 for my Giant , I dont want to leave it in a shed.

I'm an officer and if I was in there and that happened , I could not make myself take him out of the building . I would just get written up and have to face disciplineary crap.  WOW this is just crap that makes you want to throw up !

I have a stud finder ( no gay jokes, haha) so it should be ok .

Just make sure that  it either has a magazine safety disconnect or not . I DO NOT LIKE the magazine safety disconnect. Some have them and some do not . I just like to shoot my guns with and without the magazine inserted.  When I say mag safety disconnect I mean that if it has this feature , the gun will not fire unless it has a magazine inside it . I hate that . I almost bought an 84 but it had that feature. I have read that some dont have it . SO just check when you go find one . I hope this helps !

This is the second used Glock that I have traded/bought that was assembled wrong. Bot had the extractor depressor plunger and safety spring in backwards . The plastic part is supposed to go against the slide back plate. Look at my picture where the plastic is against the extractor . But both of my Glocks had the plastic end against the extractor. They still functioned but I happened to notice it. This is just a heads up for you guys that buy used like me. I dont know why both of mine were put togather this way. One of them I bought 4 yrs ago and the other was bought a few months ago. Must be a common thing I guess but putting parts in wrong can really mess you up if it is put in the wrong part or wrong way. Just a heads up . No big deal to me as far as Glocks go since they are so easy to detail strip and all. Just be safe out there when buying used and check, check, and double check before you test fire it . Have a good one ! [url=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/tercel89/media/235_zps712c986c.jpg.html][/URL]

Thats funny !!!!

Yes pics would be great

I always keep my bicycle indoors. But now that I a married and have kids , room is very slim inside the house. I am riding again and want some ideas on how to store my bike . I want to suspend it from some cables or hangers from the ceiling but cant figure out exactly how. Of course I can just screw in some hangers to the rafters and hang some cables/rope with J hooks but I just want some different ideas. I did think about the bike stands that sit on the floor but that will take up lots of space.  Any ideas or help is appreciated .  And for you bike guys out there , I have a 2013 Giant Escape Zero flat bar road bike .

Nice bike Lumber Jack . I thought I was the only one  who liked bikes and guns ! I just bought a new 2013 Giant Escape 0 . It's a flat bar road bike  .Aluminum frame and carbon forks and Deore components.  I still have a Trek 1400 road bike in excellent condition from 1994 . I just needed to be more upright.  

I just dont know how in the heck I am gonna get all the underdash board crap out of my way. It is so much crap packed into a small a$$ area!!!!

The only bad thing is the expansion valve is WAY UNDER the dashboard and air bag !!!! DARN IT !!!! and the drier is a whole lot easier to get to . 

UPDATE: My mother-in-law's friend is a retired mechanic. He tested it today with all his biog stuff and fancy gauges and all. It has no leaks. It also has plenty of coolant too. He said that the coolant isnt circulating properly like there is a restriction in the loop or system. He told me to start with the drier and then maybe the expansion valve. We will empty out the coolant and pressure then put in a new drier and then maybe a new expansion valve. 

SO far after reading this and reading about AC units in general , it seems I am gonig to have to evacuate the whole system then add coolant. I have read several things about how people will just atempt to add coolant and it wont work becuase all the coolant should be evacuated out then new coolant added. 

We have a 2000 Mazda Protege that has 233,000 miles on it. We have owned it since new. It has been babied . I am a pretty good mechanic but I dont know that much about air conditioning.  The A.C. has been blowing warm lately. I charged the system last night and it didnt do any good. I now am looking at the compressor and see that it turns on and off a lot . Like the clutch is engaging and disengaging frequently too much instead of just staying on  . Could this mean that the compressor is bad ? Any help is appreciated. 

Is it like a series 70 or the 80 ?

I love the flat silver/gray look !

I will add this and then quit my Glock rant. The GLock seems to be the most efficient combat weapon as far as pistols go in my opinion. It may  not be the most accurate pistol but it will certainly get the job done woth no complications.

Glock :wave:

Because Gen 2 Glocks have the Tenifer treatment unlike the ones today. They also have milled parts  that are not MIM parts that Glock is now doing for the extractors and such today. Also I like the Gen 2's because they do not have finger grooves. Also , dependng on what year you have , the Gen 2's have are a " 2 pin" gun instead of a 3 pin gun . This is even less parts. To me it is just an all around better pistol.

I pick the Glock 17 . It's fewer parts , the fact that anyone can detail strip it and parts are everywhere. Also it is very simple , just pull the the trigger and it shoots. NO safety's nor extra gadgets nor levers.  If you have ever used a Glock to defend your life , you will know what I mean. Since I made the decision to go with Glock , it makes the other pistols looks so bad. The others have so many springs and levers and this and that. Too much to go wrong . Plus Glock has a very good rust resistance . Also the GLock 17 Gen 2 is the best Glock in my opinion.  I can take my Glock 17 Gen 2 and drop it while loaded on assphalt or concrete . It will not malfunction nor discharge unless I pull the trigger. 

The reason I made this topic was to see how many people normally changed theirs and at how many miles. We were going to but a new car next year but instead we are going to buy a used one to save money in order to pay off student loans. We will have to buy one with an automatic transmission. I love manuals but my knee is damaged and my wife's knee is too.  What I am worried about is finding a good car but one where someone had never changed the transmission fluid. I guess I am going to have to try my luck and get a lower mileage one. I hate buying used when it comes to cars because of idiot people not doing simple maintenance like what we are talking about here. I wish buying a used car was as easy as buying a used Glock !  A GLock pistol , to me , is the easiest thing to buy used since it is so simple and easy to check all the way through with it's so few parts.   Anyways , thanks to all for giving me your input on your fluid changing habits . Thanks again ! :wave:

This is where it is not a good idea to do it. At that many miles it's best to not change it from my experience. When it has not been changed that long and you do change it at high miles, you will get problems if not complete failure. TO sum it up the dirt and contaminants become "part of the transmission" . When it is flushed out it wil start to fail. Good luck and I hope it doesnt happen to you. Before I learned of this I experienced it first hand when I changed my mother-in-law's transmission fluid.  The transmission failed after I changed it. It had 130,000 miles on it. She said I was the first person to ever change it.