mike_f

Wow, those are especially beautiful!

I was already looking at Primary Arms - the black SB Tactical A3 brace is on sale for $80. Lowest price I've seen. https://www.primaryarms.com/sb-tactical-sba3-pistol-stabilizing-arm-brace-black You people are a bad influence.........

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Graf's booted me off my dealer account a couple of years ago because I didn't spend over $2K per year with them. I still use my Brownell's dealer account frequently and can still use the discount coupons with it. ETA: Haven't bought a C&R firearm in a few years though. I haven't seen much new being imported.

I missed out on these again?!?!?!?!?!? Great looking knives!

I've drilled gas block dimples on 3 Faxon barrels using the SLR jigs. Two of the barrels were their "pencil" barrels with 0.625" gas block journals. I was worried about getting through the nitride, but the bits went through it. I went really slowly because I was worried about drilling too deep. So I drilled a little & checked, a little more & checked. I was so focused on that I didn't ready notice it being difficult getting through the nitride.

For relatively compact set of maps I like the "DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer" maps that are published by state: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/575993 (DeLorme was recently purchased by Garmin.) They're also sold at brick & mortar stores, Amazon, etc. I've found them to have enough detail to be useful for both road and terrain navigation. Not as good as a city street maps or 7.5 minute USGS topo quads, but a decent compromise. Also, since they're bound books, there's no map folding required.

I agree w/ owejia, unless it was stored under extremely harsh conditions it should be fine to shoot. I've shot mil surplus ammo from the 50's that was fine. Mil ammo tends to look tarnished (compared to commercial ammo) even when it is brand new. The brass has the discoloration on the shoulder/neck from annealing and they don't polish the brass. As long as there's no actual corrosion (blue/greeen/white deposits) forming on the brass that will feel noticeably more rough than "normal" brass, I'd have no problem shooting it.

I had 2 fluorescent fixtures that had gone out and was trying to decide which LED bulbs to buy, so I bought the bulbs from your link. I installed them today and they work great. Thanks. We have 2-bulb fixtures and I tried them with only 1 of the bulbs from TGO David's link. It seemed more directional than the fluorescents, even though one LED was probably as bright as the previous 2-bulb configuration. So I put both 2 LED bulbs in each fixture and like it much better. For those considering converting existing ballast fixtures, here's a pic of the conversion instructions that came with the bulbs. All you need are 2 wire nuts (not included with the LED bulbs) and a pair of wire cutters. I wanted to keep the old fixtures because they were from the 60's/70's and are much more substantial than the typical new manufacture ones sold currently.

You might want to look into which type of 7.62x39 gauge you want. There are SAAMI, CIP (European), and various country of origin gauges - all with different values. I'm not suggesting that you do this, but I have used a selection of various factory 7.62x39 cartridges with a piece of scotch tape on the case head as a "poor man's" no-go gauge. Again, I'm not suggesting that anyone else do this.

Thanks. I don't upload photos to TGO. I put mine up on a free Flickr ( https://www.flickr.com/ ) account and then link to it.

Ours don't still have the original furniture. They are modernized with Ultimaks, polymer handguard & pistol grips, and Bulgarian folding triangle stocks. The original furniture is probably around here somewhere. Still have one unbuilt Romy G kit w/ matching serial Nodak receiver.

You're welcome. My son and I both have AK's made from Romy G kits and I looked at their front sights to see how far down they were in the front sight base. Here are some phone pics: Is your front sight higher than this?

If you can maybe post a photo of the front sight so we can see how far it's sticking out? I think the threaded portion of the front is split (& usually bent out slightly) to provide resistance against it moving after is has been adjusted. I might not have a clear understanding of what's going on; but if it's shooting low with the front & rear sights adjusted down and far as it will go, can't you just raise the rear sight? If you've tried a variety of ammo and it all shoots low with the rear sight on whatever yardage (meter-age?) you're shooting at with the front sight adjusted as far down as it will go, maybe consider carefully filing down the front sight.

I'm just a civilian nobody that took the class about 5 or 6 years ago. I didn't/don't have any way to make money being a Glock Certified Armorer, not even sure what the market is for that. All that being said, I'm glad I took the class. It was an enjoyable day, learned to be fairly efficient disassembling/assembling Glocks. I don't remember learning any super secret armorers-only info. They also hand out a nice, lay-flat, spiral bound manual with all the stuff you learn. You also get to buy parts directly from Glock for the 3 years your certification is valid (not that important anymore since there are several other places to get them). I didn't renew it after my 3 years was up. I just work on my & immediate family's Glocks (in the rare event that something needs attention). But I know that I was taught the official way to do it, which gives me piece of mind. Can you get the same info for free on YouTube (at least for the next couple of days)? Probably.