deerslayer

1. A 9mm made in Austria 2. Accurcity=I don't know either, but I bet I can beat him at it.

Bring your 1911 and your paycheck.

From my experience, the harsh recoil of the .40 has always been a bit exaggerated.

Ahhh...I can barely make out the M&P on the side.

Weren't you the one shooting crazy tight groups w/ a .308 700? You didn't get rid of that one, did you?! Nice AR, BTW. What kind is it?

I've got something for your fancy M&P...

I have a friend with a 6.5" 629 (stainless 29) who has mentioned selling his a couple times lately. He is > five hours away from you though.

Can't really go wrong with either caliber. Don't get hung up on the .40-Glocks-will-blow-up baloney. You will get more practice per dollar with a 9mm, though. As for which size, how big are you, and how do you dress? I'm 5'10/190, and don't cherish the idea of hiding a 17/22 inside my waistband--the grip is too long to keep from "printing" (for me, anyway). I typically carry a 19 or 23 (whichever is cleanest) with a Comp-Tac CTAC IWB holster with an untucked shirt. I'm not big, but do have large hands for my frame, and the 19/23 compacts work fine. Have you handled a 19/23? If mag extensions are a must for the 19/23, then I'd go for a 17/22.

not if you were shooting SSP...

Actually, Memphis has some of the best water in the country.

CAN be if you want it to, but doesn't HAVE to be...

Extended mag release may help some. Also, an emory board will take off the sharp edges of the release. Last time I bought one, they were $2.49 each, so don't stress over screwing it up.

Not a gamble if you keep it clean.

then get a 1911 or a Makarov.

Why not just use the .243 that you already have? A couple companies load .243 in 55 grain bullets; these will often outperform a .22-250 w/ 50 grain bullets. It's not bad w/ 70 grain bullets, either.

Modern hollow points close the gap between 9mm and .45.

I am currently loading 115 grain 9mm FMJ for 9.5 cents/round (or $9.50/100). 4.7 grains of Titegroup, Wolf primers, and Precision Delta 115 FMJ. My 147 FMJs come out to about 11.5 cents/round. The Turret Press is not a terrible start, but if there's any way you can scrounge up $300 more, a Dillon 550 will be well worth it.

I guess that rules out revolvers.

I used to cut up a roast (deer or beef). The easiest thing to do is to go to the grocery and buy stew chuncks.

I enjoyed the videos you posted a while back. Perhaps you could make a quick video about drawing from different types of concealment.

Drawing with an open button down and drawing with an untucked polo are two totally different motions/techniques when done with the same hand (or so it would seem to me)--basically two different draws to learn. The motion/path of the strong hand is basically identical in both situations when doing it my way. How often does a VIP protection detail conceal their handguns with an untucked shirt? I'm sure somebody out there is faster than me when drawing from an untucked polo with one hand; it just doesn't work for me. Perhaps you move the untucked shirt with a totally different method than what I am picturing. Thanks for the compliment.

I've never used ground meat, but my recipe has always been Dale's, Worcestershire, Cavender's, 57, and a shot of liquid smoke. After all the mad cow and CWD came out, I started lightly browning all my meat before dehydrating it. I was afraid it would ruin it, but it's fine after two days in the fridge. Stew chunks have always worked well for me. I'm anal about cutting out all fat and grissle, though.

I tinkered with both. I could draw w/ same hand almost as quickly, but with much less reliability. By that I mean half the time I missed the shirt or fumbled with it or got my fingers tangled up in it or whatever. Ripping w/ weak hand works every time for me, and is quicker. Here is an example of what I'm talking about. I'm the first guy in the dark green shirt. My draw was sloppy, and I've streamlined my presentation since this video, but you get the point.

And fumbling with an untucked shirt and then trying to draw with the same hand is awkward and may get you killed. Damed if you do, damned if you don't. Me personally, if the attacker is so close that I have to use my weak to fight him off, it's probably too late to try for my gun anyway.

How does one incorporate your weak hand technique when drawing from an untucked shirt? I use my weak hand to "rip" the shirt, and draw with my strong hand. Moving the shirt and then drawing with the same hand is slow and unreliable, IMO.