Snaveba

My wife just tells me my opinions......

Does anyone even own a coat in So-Cal?

I’ve been married 20+ years and with my wife for 27+ years. One thing I’ve learned, husbands are trained, wives do the training. But seriously, it is a good idea for a couple to be on the same page when it comes to home defense.

And we are talking guns not wives.

Well, we are not “neighbors” in the casual casual sense, so I think you are fine.

I completely believe the current number of infected or post infected (recovered) is easily an order of magnitude or more higher than the 120000ish cases reported. If the number is 1,200,000 that makes the “mortality rate” drop from ~3% to ~0.3%. Now, the older population is still more venerable to more serious complications than the average person. WASH YOUR HANDS!!!!!

The same seller I used has 4 more on eBay right now. $299 free shipping

The SMSc is fiberglass filled polymer (plastic) and the RMSc is machined aluminum. I think that is the biggest difference. That and the price.

So I got tired of waiting on Sig to ship the Romeo Zero to OpticsPlanet and the Holosun HS507K is still not released. To satisfy my impatience, I got a new Shield SMSc off eBay. Same price as Springfield Armory, but no tax and free shipping. About $80 more than the Romeo Zero and only $6 more than the Holosun, shipped. The installation went smoothly. Initially you need to remove the slide (check the weapon is unloaded) to get to the two small screws on the underside that attach the rear sight and optic cover plate. The screws are allen head and use a 3/32” Allen wrench. They are fairly tight, and the socket for the Allen key is fairly shallow so make sure the key is in there straight. Once the optic plate is removed, install the battery into the bottom of the sight with the target sticker to the outside. The sight fits perfectly on top of the slide. The Shield SMSc is marketed towards the Springfield Hellcat. As such, the screws that come with the SMSc are M4-0.7 in size which are what the Hellcat needs. The P365XL needs M3-0.5 sized screws that are 10mm in length. I have read online to use 12mm, but the 10mm seem to work fine. In the photo below, the M4 acrews are on top and the M3 screws are on the bottom. I picked mine up at Home Depot. They are allen cap-head and take a 2.5mm or a 7/64” allen key. The head diameter is a bit smaller than the screws that come with the sight. I will either get some very small washers or different screws in the near future. The instructions are not very detailed that come with the sight. It is a straight forward install, but details like how much to torque the screws are not included. I have not dialed it in, but it does include the correct Allen key, an adjustment gauge, a shim to help with elevation adjustment, and decent instructions. It appears to co-witness well with the Sig front sight. It looks great on the P365XL, not too large. I did need to modify one of my holsters, but the dremel works wonders on Kydex. I have to say the RedDot looks great with the tritium front sight. I do still have my orders in with OpticsPlanet for the Romeo Zero (ships 4/14, supposedly) and Holosun HS507K (no ship date provided). I figured I might as well stay in line. When these do finally ship, if I don’t want to switch, they will likely go up for sale.

Thanks. I think I will do a SMSc install post

Adding my Sig to the list. I replaced my EDC Shield 9 with a Sig P365XL. I love it. In addition to the 12+1 capacity, I chose the P365XL for the RedDot capability. After waiting (and waiting and waiting) for Sig to release more Romeo Zero optics, I went with the Shied SMSc. it installed easily, 4MOA, can’t wait to dial it in. It looks like the built in rear sight will co-witness with the Sig front sight. I will check that at the range. I still have orders for a Romeo Zero, and a Holosun HS507K with OpticsPlanet. Since neither are scheduled to ship for over a month, I figure I can wait to cancel the orders Unfortunately the holster I use was not designed for a RD Optic installed. I had to use my dremel to modify the shape and I had to move on of the screws to a new location. It worked out great. (The other holes were drilled to try and install the Kydex on a Ventcore backing).

The GI 1911 I have is a ATI GFX 45 MIL. I think they retail for about ~$400ish. I bought mine used (like about half my pistols). It shoots great and true. Better than my buddy’s Springfield 1911 Mil Spec. It is nothing fancy, but fun to shoot. I would love to shoot a nice Wilson Combat, or a Dan Wesson, or a Colt Goldcup National March, or some other well tuned 1911 to see what they are like.

Thanks KahrMan. Great to meet you today. The tool worked like a champ. Now I’m going to end up buying night sights for my other S&W

PM sent

I want to install new tritium sights on my M&P 2.0 9mm. Does anyone in the Nashville area happen to have one I could borrow? I will come to you and return it to you.

So, the slide moves back about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before it contacts the disconnector. The disconnector needs to depress about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before the trigger disconnects from actuating the sear. Finally, the distance along the slide (the ~45 deg. sloped portion of the notch) from where the slide contacts the disconnector and the disconnector is depressed the maximum (3/32 inch) it will be depressed is 3/32 inch.

About a mm of travel back before the slide contacts the disconnector.

I was wondering about re-shaping the leading edge of the disconnector, specifically the right side (as you look at it) since this is the edge that the slide contacts when racking. Making the angle more shallow may make it easier. The biggest issue here may be that changing the dimensions of disconnector may effect when it engages or disengaged the trigger. The spring that controls the up/down tension on the disconnector is also part of the trigger return.

Re-reading my original post, it might come across that I wanted to remove the disconnector. I probably should not post at 0130 when I’m tired.

Makes sense. I was not advocating removing the disconnector, just more of a question I was pondering. Safety features are there for a reason. . I just want the disconnector on the my Sig to interfere less with the action of racking the pistol.

Well, it is my understanding that the reason for the disconnector is to prevent the trigger from releasing the firing pin before the slide is fully seated. If you push the side back far enough (putting it in an out of battery condition) the trigger will not engage the sear. My question is how often does this really happen such that you might try to fire the pistol with the slide not seated. And secondly, if the slide was not seated, would the pin still be able to strike the primer correctly. I am basically questioning the real life need for the disconnector.

If I have to I will. Unfortunately I am the second owner so I don’t have the warranty.

I think, but am not certain, that the disconnector in an striker fired pistol works differently than in a hammer fired pistol.

I did find a post on a Sig site where they were told to let the disconnector “break in”. I have asked Sig as well and described my observations (including the ease of racking with the disconnector removed) to them. I will post their response.

I love my P365XL. The only issue I have, and I have seen this discussed other places, is the difficulty there can be when racking the slide. Specifically getting the slide to start moving back. It is not terrible, but not as easy as my M&Ps. Any other P365XL (or P365) owners have this issue? I have watched a couple YouTube vids where they have complained about this then shot several hundred rounds to try and “loosen it up”. (An example) After trouble shooting mine, I have determined the “why”. It is the disconnector making the slide hard to rack. This is spring loaded and when depressed by the slide, disconnects the trigger from the sear. When the slide is at battery, the disconnector sits in this notch on the slide allowing the trigger to connect with the seat. When the slide moves back, the disconnector is depressed as it exits the notch, disconnecting the trigger from the sear. I have determined that between the poor angles either side of the notch, the angles of either side of the disconnector, and well and some possible binding in the mechanism, this makes racking the slide difficult as it tries to depress the disconnector. I tested my theory by removing the disconnector. Without it in place, the pistol racks like butter. My two questions for the wisdom of the TGO are: 1- is the disconnector really that important? I don’t see many situations where I might pull the trigger when the slide is not at battery, but is close enough that the firing pin could strike the primer with enough force to ignite. 2- Apart from removing the disconnector, what do you think I could do to make the parts work together more smoothly?