1gewehr

Some areas are starting to inspect C&Rs. But it's not like a dealer. You have a choice of getting inspected at home or in their office, and you set an appointment. Most choose their office. There are no 'surprise inspections' for C&Rs. C&R records are much simpler than FFL records. You just have to keep the bound book, and you ONLY record C&R firearm transactions, not modern ones. Also, unlike an FFL, when you give up the license, you do not turn your records into the ATF. Keep them or destroy them, your choice. A lot of C&Rs reapply for a new C&R after their current one expires, instead of renewing. That way, they only have to keep records for three years at a time. It saves them from having to answer questions about a gun they sold 25 years ago.

The really sad thing about this is that NONE of those people see anything wrong with that ad! None of the actors, production crew, or anyone else involved saw anything wrong with saying "Do what we tell you to do or we will kill you with no hesitation or remorse"! Well, now it seems that they are showing their true colors. They are religious fanatics of the worst variety, no better than Muslim extremists shouting "Allahu Akbar!" while they saw off some innocent person's head.

All three will deliver about 3-6moa depending upon wear, build quality, and other factors. Any of the three is capable of 2-3moa with a bit of work. All are known as reliable, durable rifles. Your choice is probably going to be more about personal preference and how well your wallet is stuffed than anything else. Mosin Nagant - Sturdy, simple, cheap ammo, strong action, and inexpensive rifles. Most after 1934(?) have chromed bores which doubles the barrel life, increases velocity slightly, and decreases chances of corrosion from surplus ammo. Action can be very stiff when new, no safety, and thin barrel heats up quickly and changes POI within ten rounds. 98 Mauser - The classic Mauser action, still in production after 112 years has to say something! A well-made Mauser 98 is reliable, smooth, and accurate. Potentially the most accurate of the three. The Yugo M48 and M48a are bargains as they can be had in excellent condition for less than a WWII 98k, but are still well-made rifles. Check the bore condition and headspace carefully. If both are good, then your rifle will last a long time without issues. Lee-Enfield - In early WWI, a squad of British troops armed with Lee-Enfields could deliver as much aimed, effective fire as a Maxim Machine Gun! It takes training, but the Smelly (from Short, Magazine Lee-Enfield) has a very quick, smooth bolt-action and a ten-round magazine. The early No4 rifles with the milled sight have the best sights of any non-US military bolt-action rifle. The No1, MKIII WWI rifles aren't bad either. Bolt heads are replaceable, not because the headspace changes any more than other rifles, but for ease of manufacture. But it does make proper headspacing easier than other rifles. Again, bore condition is critical. External appearance can be fixed, but rebarreling a SMLE is a pain. The SMLE also has the easiest safety of any military bolt-action. The N01, MKIII is also the best bayonet-fighting rifle I've ever handled if that means anything to you. My personal preference is SMLE, Mauser, Mosin. I have a No4 that delivers 2moa with good ammo. Combined with the slick action, excellent sights, and usable safety, I have used it for plinking, target shooting, and hunting (with aftermarket 5rd mag).

Cooper's base is not motivated to get out and vote like last time. Voter registration fraud will be much lower since it is being more closely scrutinized. Cooper hass essentially run unopposed for the past three election cycles. Before that, no conservative had a reasonable chance of unseating him. This is the best chance we have had to get rid of him. And with the redistricting that will happen in 2011, once gone, he will have a very hard time coming back. So, if you want to get rid of Cooper, make sure everyone against massive government spending, voter fraud, corruption, and 1.6gallon toilets votes for Hall.

The 'new' Royal Enfields have a horrible reputation for reliability. If you are looking for the 'classic' British look with decent performance and reliability, I would suggest the Triumph twins. I spent a day playing with a Bonneville a few years ago and enjoyed it a lot! It was a very versatile machine with excellent performance and handling.

This is actually an excellent exercise. If you cannot understand the arguments against your own viewpoint, you will have trouble effectively arguing your own side. And it's not like there isn't a pantload of articles out there trying to explain the 'benefits' of gun control. I had to do a similar exercise many years ago in Political Science extolling the benefits of Mutual assured Destruction. There was plenty of information to distill into a nice paper. After the paper was done, I attached another page explaining why the first one was cr@p. (one sentence explaining that MAD required rational behavior in order to be effective, and people often did irrational things.)

That's a Yugoslavian 8mm Mauser. They have a good reputation for quality and accuracy. It uses regular old 8mm Mauser ammo (7.9mm, 7.92x57mm are other names). The box of ammo you show is Yugoslavian M75 8mm Mauser ammo made in 1983. A lot of this ammo has been sold lately as 'sniper' ammo. Reports are that it is very high quality ammo and pretty accurate. I'm not sure that running it through your M24/47 will give a worthwhile test. You might want to get some of the cheaper surplus 8mm for plinking or normal shooting. I'm not sure what you mean by "the back side of the bullet seems to be wider then the end of the barrel". The bullet should be slightly larger in diameter than the bore. If you take a cartridge and stick the bullet into the muzzle end of the barrel, it should not go in all the way to the mouth of the cartridge case. You should have about 1/4" of copper bullet visible unless the barrel is pretty worn.

I don't care for either choice. It's our usual choosing 'the lesser of two evils'. McWherter is a card-carrying liberal who believes in the government's right to take whatever it wants and redistribute it to cure 'social injustice'. Haslam is a power-hungry career politician who will do and say whatever he thinks he needs to in order to gain and keep power. So both are 'evil' choices. The difference is that Haslam won't fight against the legislature unless he is VERY sure that it will gain him political clout. In my mind that makes him the 'lesser of two evils'. Just remember that after he is elected we will need to keep a VERY close eye on him. I don't think that he is an 'honest politician' (one that STAYS bought).

Star PD. I've carried one for almost 30 years. Small, light, reliable and no d@mn grip safety!! Just replace the buffer every 500rds.

Keep in mind that the front and rear of most semi-auto barrels are where the lockup occurs. If you polish those areas, you are removing metal which will affect the tight lockup and could affect accuracy. I would be particularly careful about polishing around the muzzle. If the bearing surfaces are loose there, you WILL affect accuracy.

I would rather have it be legal than not. If you REALLY want to see that game/concert/whatever, and didn't have the foresight to buy the tickets in advance, then you at least have the option to see the show. I DO appreciate it when producers put a limit on ticket sales to one person. But I do NOT think there should be any law about it.

The problem is in how you define 'peace'. Really. Remember Stalin defined 'peace' as 'an absence of opposition to world communism'. Is THAT what you want? How about 'the absence of conflict'? Hmmm, so if another country decides to just move the border markers, then there should be no option of conflict. What is to then stop any country from just taking whatever they want? The same goes for individuals. If you are not willing to defend things that are important, then how important are they? Really. Pat slogans are what burn me up. To me, they demonstrate a total absence of thought. "Stop the violence". All violence? What about defending oneself? Is it better to allow yourself to be murdered than to stop it? If so, then you are potentially allowing OTHER murders to occur if you don't stop it yourself.

Nagant revolver: Take the grips off and hose it down in the parts cleaner until the action is clear of cosmoline and crud. Bow-dry and oil lightly. Tthat will usually take 7-19lbs off the trigger pull and make it much smoother. Pistols made from 1938-1945 have chromed bores which is good if you plan to shoot surplus ammo. It also adds about 20fps to the velocity. I have used a wide variety of ammo in my Nagant. I settled on .32H&R magnum as the best combination of value and performance. If you load your own, you can get about 1200fps with a 100gr JHP. That's well into .38Spl energy levels. I ONLY use jacketed bullets as lead will build up in the base of the barrel where the regular Nagant cartridge brass seals it. Midway brass is usually good for about 4 reloads as some minor ballooning does occur during firing. My cost is about $170/1000 which does not count my time. The pistol is more accurate than I am, and soda cans are easy to hit out to 25yds or so. Recoil and muzzle flip are relatively mild. Reloading quickly takes some practice, and is about as quick as a single-action Colt. It does, however, hold seven rounds. I have several of these revolvers and my 'shooter' has over 1000rds through it, almost all .32H&R Mag. It shows no signs of abnormal wear or stress. It still has a tight action, but the trigger pull is a bit smoother. I started out shooting .32S&W long lead bullets through it but stopped when I noticed that the lead was building up in the barrel recess.

All I have is a Ruger Single Six (LOVE IT!!!) and a Ruger .44 Blackhawk. I would really like to have a Colt SAA .45, but that $1000+ price tag is WAY over my current budget.

Chinese .44Mag? I've never heard of any. Seems like I've seen that picture before. My bet is reloads.

Also, you need to find out if it's smoothbore or rifled. Rifles should only be fired with minie bullets, sabots, or a patched bullet to engage the rifling. A smoothbore will need a ball a little smaller than the ball. I also recommend against firing an original unless you REALLY know what you're doing. It's too easy to destroy an original antique that may have a hidden weakness in the breech or bore from rust or corrosion.

Good Grief! I sure hope that nobody on this forum actually thinks they can enhance their knowledge of firearms from watching movies or TV! I sincerely hope that anyone who may start shooting at me learned all they know from TV!!

If it looks like this one, they are nice well-made little revolvers. ARMSLIST - For Trade: Charter Arms Undercover 38spl They were made before +P ammo became popular, so don't make a habit of using +P. As stated above, it is a .38 Special, and .357 ammo will not fit. I do not know of a serial-number date list for Charter Arms. These little revolvers do not get good prices as they are a kind of sleeper on the market. Lately, I've seen them go for $150-200 at retail if in excellent condition.

Troy is well-known in the NFA community. If he is the management of CaracalUSA, then I would be inclined to believe that customer service adn support will be first-rate. I too am interested in the answer to the 'how much' question.

Is that a ... GIRL'S bike??!!!!!

There are a number of small, lightweight 9mm pistols available. I have a Keltec PF9 that has been very reliable. I've also heard good things about the Kahr, but for a rather higher price. For a used pistol, you might look for a Star BM or BKS. These are very slim, single-action pistols that conceal well. The BM is all-steel, while the BKS has an aluminum-alloy frame. S&W had some versions of the model 39 that were cut-down and double-action only. The S&W 36 is the classic small carry pistol if you prefer revolvers.

"Others may have disappointments and guns they don't like and some may equal, but none can surpass the bad that is a Rohm. " I don't know. 1982 Colt Gold Cup. It never went a full magazine without a jam. Multiple trips to Colt, multiple professional experts looked at it, every type of magazine was tried, every type of ammo. Eventually, I sold it at a loss to someone who fancied himself an expert and thoght he could get it running. He said he had it running once, and invited me to see him shoot it. the first mag went fine! But the second mag had both an ejection failure and an extraction failure. I never heard back after that.

Don't bother with the STEn mag conversion. The math just doesn't support the expense. Back when the only mags for the M11/9 were the Zytel ones, it was a good idea. Now that the good steel ones are out there from Recon Ordnance and other sources, I'd go with those. The STEn conversion used to be about $250. Add in a dozen STEn mags at $10 each and you have $370 invested. If you just bought 12 of the steel M11 mags for $240, you would save $120 and not have to be without the gun for however long it took to do the conversion. Besides, that's $120 you can put towards the Lage Max-11!

It seems like the misfires are from priming compound not fully distributed around the rim. Usually, if I reload them in the firearm so that the firing pin strikes a different part of the rim, they will fire. Still, I won't be buying any more until I get a guarantee that this has been resolved.

Yes. It was designed for the inexpensive and excellent 36rd stick mags. But it also takes the 72rd drums as well as the 50rd 'coffin' mags. Don't hold the weapon by the magazine, it will cause jams. Use the barrel shroud. That's why it's there.