Jonnin

  Irony defined....  ^^^^^   FB is fine, but putting your real info and life anywhere in public is asking for trouble.  Same as putting your name, address, SS#, credit card info, etc on a flyer and nailing it up all over town 40 years ago was probably stupid.    I don't use it because my real name - digital footprint is microscopic and I intend to keep it that way.  Same reason I do not have a real cell phone.    I was sort of OK with this until you hit the spot in the discussion that they will crack down on all gun sales that do not require a background check.  That is crossing the line.  If I were on FB and that threat becomes an actuality, I would leave it.   As I am not on it, all I can do is to warn others to pay attention to that little detail.  The news blubs all say it is cracking down on ILLEGAL sales but the devil in the details says it will crack down on legal sales too, if they decide to go that far.

I figure there will be cloth for the rest of my life.  A good rag, and nasty as it is, wash them if you do not have enough for a disposable supply.  Hopefully you have a crank operated or something washer of some sort.    With any luck, you will have plenty of disposable though,  a single empty home probably has 5 years worth in old clothing, rags, bedding, etc. 

the line in the sand.   Supposedly we are law abiding.  So supposedly we would be against these lawbreaker's behavior?   Or is this the revolution at last, a "we the people declare that law null and void"?     Regardless, these folks are breaking the law and no longer does the term "law abiding" apply to them.   Or this could be colored as a peaceful protest to a bad law, 1960s style.   Time will tell...

this administration and the current media could easily fake a story.  If there are questions, they do need to be answered. Lack of answers does not mean anything though --- such large scale events have on-going side investigations for years on end, and active lawsuits etc that cause the officials to clam up for a while.    This looks like someone filling in answers that are not available with paranoia.  "The lack of answers is proof" does not really cut it. 

  Its mostly over-rated, but a few converted for cover fire might be prudent if you have an organized group facing an army.  

There is enough engineer in my background to say that if the spring is of the proper material and never ruined by over compression or over extension,  it will not be significantly harmed by being stored compressed.    Not every spring is well chosen for the application, and these break or fatigue and wear out long before they should.    This is true in any manufacturing including guns and gun magazines.   There have been a few stellar examples of recoil springs that go bad within 500 rounds or less,  and then there is my makarov which is still going on the orig spring after many thousands of rounds, over 5 and I lost count around there years ago.   I do have a replacement, but have not yet needed it!   The mag springs also still work in that gun, and they have been compressed since '93 or so apart from when it was being shot.  

is there a screw up in that?   7 min for the army, 3 mil for the people, its only a 2 to 1 difference and that is significant but not insurmountable.    If enough of the gun owners there can organize, they could make a pretty good war of it, moreso if they can seize some military hardware.   What may be an issue is if those 3 million are 2.5 million 100 year old bolt action rifles or something up against full autos.   Even here in the states we would have that issue, though once the guns come out,  at least semi autos can be made full auto with a little creative work.

Welcome!   What do you even mean by heavy?  The weight of the gun, or the recoil?    If recoil is the issue, and not gun weight,  different grips can often solve the problem for a very small investment relative to a new pistol or eating a loss on a trade.   Gun weight is often less of an issue than barrel length in a revolver.  A long barrel is like trying to hold horizontal a 5 pound weight on the end of a yardstick using only your thumb and 1 finger.   Its not the weight so much as the weight on a sort of lever against your wrist.   Often, the same gun (if you like it) can be found in a shorter barrel model, and often, this is much easier on the wrist.  But this issue usually does not show up until you start talking about guns that are unsuitable for carry anyway, stuff with 8 and 10 inch barrels??     My wife shoots a ruger GP 357.  It is not heavy, but because of that, with full power 357s it is a handful of recoil (thankfully nice grips tame it some).   We like this revolver because it is very easy to get a light, easy to use trigger setup and it is a good size for carry, and while uncomfortable to shoot hundreds of times back to back with elephant killing bazooka rounds, she gets enough real loads down the tube for practice and a lot more light 38s for fun.     For most guns, the following is more or less true: the lighter the gun, the worse the recoil, and the heavier the gun, the gentler it is.   Keep that in mind before you rush out to by an aluminum framed short barreled 357.    If you want to go super light and small, a 38 or 38s in a small 357 is much more usable (and this isnt aimed at women either, I personally would not care to practice with a 357 lightweight and if I can't practice with it, I will not carry it).    As others said, a good 9mm is about as effective as a 357, usually has more capacity, is easier to reload, and if you select one with a gentle trigger can be fired faster as well.  If you prefer a revolver, there are many other flavors as well --- you can get anything from a .22 mag with 8 or so rounds to things that make your 357 seem small.  Maybe another caliber will suit, such as a 32 of some flavor, etc.   The 32 mag is not a weak cartridge.   Also, note that barrel length has a lot to do with effectiveness of the firearm.  Below 3 inch barrels really reduces the power of any cartridge.  I say that and carry a micro 9mm, but its worth knowing. 

He really does not have much.  A fair amount of ammo but the guns are few and more or less stock, inexpensive utilitarian examples.    All I took away from this is how stupid anti-gun people are, and since I already knew that....

I could not find anything offical, but searching for load data for that round (well, for generic fmj 230s anyway), time and time again people posted closer to 4.5 grains.   You should consult a validated source, but I suspect you could use a little more oomph and it might solve this problem.   I back this up with experience -- I am very cautious when I make a load and often my initial loads, which tend to have a rather low charge, will keyhole.  And every time increased loads straighten up.   I dont have experience with that powder, so this is all educated guesswork intended to provide a direction for you to investigate. 

If you want a halfway accurate rifle, the crown must be correct, so depending on your tools and skills you  may want to get help with it.  If the rifle is in rough shape, it matters less as even a perfect crown won't make it any better beyond a certain point.   There is another technique for giving life back to a worn out barrel.  Its called a counter-bore, and many folks say it really helps a worn out milsurp rifle to shoot for a while longer.   If your barrel is in good shape, cutting on it is generally a bad idea --- devalues the gun and doing it right takes some skill (see above).  You can do it, of course, and if you do it right, you can produce a decent custom rifle from it.   Its your call on that.   However, if your barrel is in good shape, its atypical, and therefore you did, as I said, devalue a better / more collectable example.  So basically if its worth bothering to cut on, its in too good a shape to cut on.  Exception would be if only the business end of the barrel is worn out, which is possible I suppose, and that would make doing  it worthwhile for that specific situation.   Someone within an hour of you can surely do this, but  I have no idea who it would be.    Good luck with it!

  yes, you need to trim 556 and 223.    Supposedly this caliber can be dangerous if the brass gets stretched thin AND long enough to enter the throat too deeply (as in the brass is up into the rifling nearly?).  That probably takes reusing the same case 10 times without a trim between or something extreme --- never heard of it IRL just one of those warnings that is passed along.

well, im a big fan of the classic turret.  I find I save about 50% or more time per batch with it, for straight walled cases.  For necked cases, it does not make any difference.  The one you have is also very good, so this is just me inserting personal bias.   - 9mm and 45 ammo thingys (when you buy ammo, the plastic tray they come in) serve as loading trays for almost all rifle and pistol ammo in most calibers and are free.  I just choke up at $8 for nearly the same thing, but its your money.  IF you powder the case in the tray, one tray is worth having.  If you just want something to hold the case upright while you work, the freebies are the way to go.  If you powder on the scale via trickle, the freebies are the way to go.   - I hate the hand prime tool, but I am a weirdo and worse, my hands give me much pain.   I use the press prime.  Do you need it or want it or was it just recommended?  I also choke at the thought of handling explosives while watching TV as some suggest, but again, im a little strange.  Its a nice widgit if you want it, but its redundant if your press has a prime tool in it (most do?).   Guy talked me into it when I started, one of the places I wasted money.   - do you need a trimming system?  I don't see one there.   - do you need a bench, storage space, or any of that?   - I like to make some of my ammo fast, would the lee disk powder device be of any use?  Its sloppy,  probably at least a .2 grain variation (or +-.1 if you prefer) but its fast and you can't tell at short range with a pistol.  This would be in addition to what you picked, not instead of.   Most of it looks really good. 

p290 is probably on par in size and whatnot to the others, so sure, its a pocket 9 and could be considered.  I like the 938, but usually don't say anything due to the price and "not for everyone" setup.   Ill say one more thing about the nano: its a left handed gun.   The mag drop swaps sides with nothing but a needle for tools, there is no safety, its a solid choice for a lefty if you like the platform.   And it passes the only test that matters: it works every time.   If you can actually pull the trigger, that is :P

  pros: its freaking awesome.   cons: ammo costs too much for enough practice to make it acceptable for carry for most shooters.  Also, the gun is quite valuable and beating up a $1k+ gun in every day carry is also frowned upon by many.  So basically, the only reason NOT to use it for carry is economics.    I think you can reload the ammo, making it superior to 22 mag and feasible for practice.  Its probably about like 223 to reload?   I am not sure about the ballistics.  I think the round could be nasty, but not having my own to experiment with, I cant say.  Should be able to make it tumble: I can make 9mm tumble reliably and 45 as well, its not speed, its gyroscopic and aerodynamic stability.  Its not hard to make things unstable, actually.  If nothing else, you can bore out the rifling, a smoothbore WILL tumble :) but odds are you can do it just with load data mixup.

well that explains it.  thought the body looked too normal to have been taped up for days and suffering but its hard to tell in pics sometimes.   I can see it for a competition, though it seems like it would be easy to cheat and remove a block, insert your own.  I know, I know, hunters all all ethical esp when there is a prize on the line, but still,  seems like a flawed system.

The PMR is still kinda new and therefore a bit hard to find the gun.   The gun also has some growing pains, not sure how many have been resolved, including extremely picky about ammo and some very early structural integrity issues.   Might research it before you go there.   Last time I looked at one, I hesitated due to the issues, but that was maybe 2 years ago give or take?   If you can get one that works reliably with at least one brand of available ammo, it would be an ideal self defense gun IMHO.   Light recoil, ultra high cap, good penetration and firepower, all in a light 9mm sized frame with an acceptable combat type trigger.    One site that I visit scores guns by recoil, capacity, caliber, size weight/etc and some other variables and the pmr 'on paper' (that is, assuming it is flawless) comes out with a very, very high score.    If it had a target trigger, I might have bought one, but the combat trigger was a no-go.  Kel tec gun testers must all be a group of hefty fellas.

mineral spirits is an oil based solvent.  It is likely to have negative impact on a plastic tumbler body, esp over a long time frame.  It should not harm the brass.      Guys, I have not looked at *serious* chemistry in decades, so these are just "warnings" based off a rather hazy memory.  Nothing I have said is wrong, but the actual effects could be so minor as to be ignored --- it could take 300 years for spirits to mess up a plastic bowl.  Or 10 min.  I just don't know.     Same for brass and ammonia.... it wont hurt it right off, in a wipe down or something, but you were warned: prolonged exposure = brittle eventually, whether that is decades or hours, I dunno.

  Don't spend $$ until you have gone for 5 or 10 matches and are sure you want to do it a lot.  While in those matches, watch what people have and how effective it is or is not.   A lot of gear is just flashy, overpriced junk that won't do anything at all for your score.     6+1 is pretty low for a shotgun and you will spend a great deal of time reloading it in the shotgun stage.   Pumps rarely come anywhere near the times of autos.  Its pretty cheap to get a tube extender to get 10 rounds in it but you may want to go for an auto (same gun in auto is the rem 1100 and its a great, inexpensive choice).  But here again, don't run out to buy a gun until you are sure.   A few bucks on the tube extension is not wasted, esp since it can be put on the 1100 later IF you go that route, and I think the same one fits *most* shotguns. 

it is my understanding that brasso will reduce case life due to the ammonia in it reacting with the brass which makes it become more brittle.  I have no personal experience here, though.    From the wiki on the chemistry FWIW:   Brass is susceptible to stress corrosion cracking, especially from ammonia or substances containing or releasing ammonia. The problem is sometimes known as season cracking after it was first discovered in brass cartridge cases used for rifle ammunition during the 1920s in the Indian Army. The problem was caused by high residual stresses from cold forming of the cases during manufacture, together with chemical attack from traces of ammonia in the atmosphere. The cartridges were stored in stables and the ammonia concentration rose during the hot summer months, thus initiating brittle cracks. The problem was resolved by annealing the cases, and storing the cartridges elsewhere.

that one did not starve.   I dunno the story but its not starved, maybe dehydrated or something. 

doctors can make a quick "warning" diagnosis off just a few blood tests --- my wife was given a "pre diabetic" warning diagnosis years ago and since then has reverted to normal.  Even if the diagnosis is not 100% accurate, unless she did her blood test within a few hours of chugging the stuff, consider it heavily as a wake up call for a lifestyle change --- get a second opinion and all that, but she may be able to go low carb or something and live a long healthy life from here ....

I would just get a second rifle. 

nano trigger is very bad.  Its long, heavy, and compresses a big spring that you can feel the coils grating inside, its super gritty and several hundred rounds later about like it was on day 1.   Everything else about the gun is very nice.      Shield is excellent. 

kroil will probably protect, but honestly, do NOT use it on your guns for these purposes.   It is what wd-40 is supposed to be:  penetrating oil.  It spreads, and creeps,  and will loosen every pin, screw, whatever else is in your gun --- things will probably start to work loose just from shooting.    It would work as a lube for a while, but it will spread too thin to really serve there.   It will protect, but its going to creep and make a mess.   Its just not the right product.   If you have a rusted bolt/screw or stuck pin or even a stuck case in a die, use kroil -- its probably the best in of the class.   If you want to CLP, use something else.    Also, I have no idea if it harms any types of plastics or finishes.  Probably ok on finishes.   You might use it to clean, but I would not.    Also, talk about an oil that will ruin ammo fast... I can assure you that if any oil can get into a primer and powder, this one WILL.