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Safe installation question

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So I finally decided it was time to replace my $300.00 gun safe with a more substantial safe. After a couple visits to The Safe House i purchased the Superior Master Series SM 40 gun safe. Thanks to Nancy for her patience in answering all my questions. Although not my first choice I will be placing the safe in my attached garage which is cover by my alarm system. The garage door opens to the back yard so it will not be too visible when the door is up. I have read that placing the safe on concrete will require the use of some type of vapor barrier. My question is what would be the best barrier. I have thought about this and am thinking about sealing the floor were safe will sit with drylok and then laying a 20 mil vapor barrier down before they install the safe. I know they will drill through this when they bolt the safe down but I think it will be ok. I just wondered if anyone else had dealt with this issue and how did y'all solve it. Also do y'all think drylok and barrier would work. Thanks in advance for any help. 

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The plastic will be perfectly fine. The small holes for the bolts are of little consequence.  Throw a bed sheet the same color as the walls over the safe to make it less visually obvious. 

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I placed trex board (used for decking) under mine. Lined them up after trimming and predrilled before I put my bolts in. 

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Don’t they put something down or recommend what to use if they are installing the safe and bolting it down?

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On 7/16/2017 at 9:51 AM, DaveTN said:

Don’t they put something down or recommend what to use if they are installing the safe and bolting it down?

Yeah, was thinking the same thing?

Not to knock the store, but I know substantial safes cost a substantial sum.... you'd think they'd throw in a couple bucks worth of material for an 'underlayment' in your installation fee?

 

- K
 

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We install a lot of safes in garages and just use 2 strips of hardwood about the size of a yardstick but thicker. These are placed on each side of the safe running front to back and trimmed to depth. These strips allow a little airflow under the safe which is all that's needed to prevent moisture from wicking up from the concrete. Generally, the older the concrete, the less moisture, but it's always good to raise the safe a bit. I wouldn't raise it much more than 3/8" as this would allow the bad guys more room to get a pry bar started if they were so inclined. Putting the safe on a rubber mat works as long as the garage or building is climate controlled. If it's not, then there are a few times a year where we have temperature inversions and everything sweats. Then moisture runs down the safe and will pool at the bottom which could cause some issues. With the strips, the moisture has a chance to dry out. We use these strips to protect hardwood and tile floors as well so that the safe never touches the floor. I would imagine that The Safe House takes care of all this for their customers. They're a good outfit. 

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Edited by PARKERS SAFES
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