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After completely using a bunch o stuff ive had,i bellied up and splurged on a small tub of FL paste and small tube of FL oil.

looks good,goes on easy i dont get the ben gay odor........hoppes 9 motivated me,this stuff has me slightly depressed LOL,The ol lady kept interrogating me on the ben gay odor seeing there's none in the house...........

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Sorry but ya can't beat the smell of Hoppes in the morning.

Uhg. I did some rust removal on an old Wingmaster, last night. Woke up this morning still smelling the Hoppes.

Having said that, there is no more rust so it really does smell like victory. :)
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I'm just not convinced that Frog Lube is any better than anything else out there.  I get the logic behind it, but I don't see how this stuff would be any better at penetrating the pores of the metal than any other lubricant.  I thought about making the switch, but I don't like the idea of being forced to use only that (a clever marking scheme in my opinion).  I'll stick to my petroleum based lubricants.  I clean with Hoppe's, use Break Free CLP, and Tetra Gun grease.

Edited by East_TN_Patriot
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I'm just not convinced that Frog Lube is any better than anything else out there.  I get the logic behind it, but I don't see how this stuff would be any better at penetrating the pores of the metal than any other lubricant.  I thought about making the switch, but I don't like the idea of being forced to use only that (a clever marking scheme in my opinion).  I'll stick to my petroleum based lubricants.  I clean with Hoppe's, use Break Free CLP, and Tetra Gun grease.

 

I don't know if it's any better or not but I'm positive that my guns take half the time to clean after firing. I also like the fact that it's non toxic.

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I've tried tons of different cleaners, lubricants, etc., and I don't understand the hype surrounding Frog Lube, especially considering the ridiculous price. There are other products that will do at least as good of a job, and for a fraction of the cost.


It really isn't expensive when working with the paste. A little goes a long way.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2

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I don't know if it's any better or not but I'm positive that my guns take half the time to clean after firing. I also like the fact that it's non toxic.

That's good to hear since I know you and trust your statement.  Perhaps I should just buy a tub and try it out.  I wasted more money on less interesting stuff.

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Guest TheDrip

I bought the small tub of it. I have a feeling I'll need a replacement tub in about 50 years After going through 2 rifles and one pistol, I can't even tell that I used any of the jar.

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That's good to hear since I know you and trust your statement.  Perhaps I should just buy a tub and try it out.  I wasted more money on less interesting stuff.

 

The previous post is correct, the paste lasts a LONG time. I bought a small tub(2-3 ounces I think) probably a year ago. Since then I've used less than 15% of the container. It really doesn't take much. I followed their recommendation about heating up the metal of the guns before applying it. It's not required but they claim it helps.

I recently bought the liquid to see if I like it better. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. 

 

Again, I don't know if it's any better than other products on the market but it's made in the U.S.A by a veteran and I don't have to worry about it being full of carcinogens so I'll keep using it for now. I do know that in the past the barrels of my Glocks would have a lot grime and lead build up that would be difficult to remove. Since applying this stuff one swipe of the bore snake usually does the job.

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I've heard nothing but good about it I've spent money on stupid crap but as much as I clean I figured I'd give it a whirl. I do have Italian gun grease which is biodegrade able w out the Ben gay odor....am kind of excited about it as I prefer cleaning and proper lubrication over any thin else to keep my gear running smooth
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Guest Bonedaddy

I keep it simple and it works great. $20 bottle of Zmax, first. Soak all metal parts overnight, then if it "might" need a "tad" more oil, I'll use 5 or 0 weight full synthetic motor oil (usually just a bolt) and maybe a smidge of Slick 50 grease on a slide after the soakin'. All my weapons clean up easy as pie and they don't get cleaned often 'cept for a bore snake with Zmax on it run through the barrel after I've been shootin' and I might shoot 500 rounds before I do that. Or used to, rather. Too damned expensive to be shootin' that much, these daze. Zmax is a great carbon cutter, too. Don't know if it's the best at that but it works purdy good after a little soakin'. I'm also a big fan of Hilco wipes for most cleanin' and slickin' jobs. Usually, after the Zmax, Hilco is all I'll use to slick things up. It stays on a long time, too.

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I use two different things on my guns.

 

First is a grease containing moybendum disulfide. You can buy a lifetime supply of it at Walmart for under $5. It is used on parts that need grease like 1911 slides or on the hammer/sear.

 

The second thing I use is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and synthetic 30 weight oil. If I want it to cut carbon and crude a bit more I add about 10% of injector cleaner. It seems to lift the carbon and suspend it in the mix. Best part you can make a 1/2 gallon of the stuff for under $10.

 

Been using the combination of these two for at least a decade without any problems.

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I've used Frog Lube and still have some. The jury is out for me on it also.  On a Ruger MKIII if applied liberally it seems to make cleanup much easier after shooting , just wipe the gunk off and generally there is a lot of gunk.  I've never used it on AR doing mag dumps.  It seems to be a good cleaning agent for a Glock pistol barrel or .22s.  How much better or worse than Kroil or CLP or Hoppes  or red tranny fluid x motor oil.  Lately I've just been using CLP just because I have a lot of it and it works good enough for the kind of shooting I do.

 

I should just degrease one of the 1022s and run Frog Lube on it exclusively and see what happens. 

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