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Blind roll pin removal


MrJones79

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I like that idea, alternately a soldering iron would probably heat things up enough to get moving I would think, would be a lot more precise and if I'm picking up what D is putting down, a vise, some needle nose to work the pin from the accessible area, and you might not even need 3 hands to do it. :up:


Did not think of that Nicky a soldiering iron with a chisel tip could make a small hole and then pust it out good thinking.

I love this place there is so much knowledge here we could probably solve cancer childhood hunger and the national debt in like 7 days if we put our minds to it
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I think you're missing my point. There is no difference. I guess they charge $170 for drainage holes and ball bearings that shouldn't be needed in the first place.


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Not missing your point. I don't want to destroy a $200 buffer tube if I can avoid it. If I go to sell it, it will probably be an HK fan boy that buys it and they aren't gonna want a $20 buffer tube from Midway on it - they are gonna want the tacticool HK parts. Sure, I may have to knock a few bucks off for the small hole where roll pin was but I can deal with that. Edited by MrJones79
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If you can cut a small notch in the body of the roll pin, it looks like you might be able to get a long, thin flat-bladed screw driver on the notch to knock it out a little. With that much of the roll pin exposed in the buffer, there should be a way to get it backed out enough to pull it out.

Or... Cut the exposed roll pin in half and drive it on through the stock the rest of the way Edited by Wingshooter
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I say drill but I'd use a bit equal to or maybe slightly smaller than the pin.  If you have a variable speed drill use a low setting so it doesn't get away from you.

 

I'm thinking that's your only option.

Edited by Garufa
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I say drill but I'd use a bit equal to or maybe slightly smaller than the pin. If you have a variable speed drill use a low setting so it doesn't get away from you.

I'm thinking that's your only option.

Yep. Drill press, vice, several sharp bits, low rpm, very slow feed, cutting oil. Bit should be about 0.020-0.030" smaller diameter than the pin. Chuck way down on the bit so only 1/4" or so sticks out. It's less likely to flex and break.

You want to thin wall the top portion of the pin enough so that you can collapse the pin enough to get purchase with needle nose. Let it cool before yanking it out. A slide hammer might help break it loose.

Masking tape around the area will help prevent idiot marks.

If you know a really good welder, he/she might be able to tack a rod to the pin and pull it out. Just striking the arc will cause the pin to shrink a little and loosen up. Edited by peejman
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Well...got her out.

 

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Kind of funny how it ended up working out. I took a drill bit slightly larger than the the roll pin and started drilling into it hoping that I could either widen the hole enough to work it out with some pliers or some small hand tool, or that I would just grind down the pin to the point that it cleared the stock so I could slide it back and remove the pin. Well, it was neither. Note the right hand side of the pin above...it is sharp form where the gunsmith cut it to length...this was not the side the drill bit was touching. As I started to drill, the roll pin started rotating. Because I was applying downward pressure to it, the roll pin itself turned into a drill bit and cut itself through the rest of the buffer tube and stock and popped out the other side a little bit. Then, I just grabbed some needle nose pliers and worked it out!

 

Anyway, thanks for all the feedback from y'all. It is much obliged.

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