gregintenn

I may add it to someone else's stuff, but not mine. I've spent way too much time cleaning carburetors, petcocks, and the like to try it. Whoever mandated ethanol added to gasoline should be submerged in a vat of it until bubbles quit coming to the top.

My 9mm FMJ loads will most assuredly penetrate any Carhart product.

I have a generator with a tank full of gas (containing ethanol), and I'd like to dispose of it. What would be a good method for this?

I never met him in person, but on here, he seemed to be a good and interesting fellow. He'll surely be missed.

Stay away from the s.o.b. on hwy 109 just north of the new river bridge in Gallatin! You can thank me later.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/ammunition/rimfire-ammunition|/pc/104792580/c/104691780/sc/104536080/winchester-reg-22-rimfire-ammunition/705405.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Frimfire-ammunition%2F_%2FN-1100192%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104536080%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104792580%253Bcat104691780%26MDRB%3Dam22 The good mews is that Cabelas has Winchester 22 mag ammo in stock for $13.99 a box. The bad news is they'll only let you buy two boxes, and they'll eat your lunch with shipping charges. I ordered two anyway. Who knows when you'll see any again?

In addition to the longer bullet reducing case capacity, it also has a larger bearing surface, which, in addition to the heavier weight, makes it more difficult to push down the bore. This will also cause higher pressure, which would require less powder to reach the same pressure level you're getting with the lighter bullet. Another anomaly I've found with shooting and reloading is that a heavier bullet from a handgun generally hits the target higher than a lighter bullet, while the heavier bullet in a rifle prints lower on the target than it's lighter counterpart. I believe the lighter bullet prints lower from a handgun because it leaves the barrel faster, before muzzle flip can raise the point of impact as much as with the heavier, slower projectile. This isn't as much of an issue with a rifle.

I did. I didn't find the results I was looking for. I understand I need to unhook the drive cable, but for the life of me I can't see where to unhook it. Surely I don't have to take carbs off to do it.

We're some picky sum beeches ain't we?!!??

I have a Kubota L3250. It has 40 hp at the engine, and 32 hp at the pto according to specs. I've had it for about 14 years now. It is the perfect size for grading the driveway, making a garden, and mowing a large lawn. It'll operate a 6' bush hog, finishmower, or boxblade with ease. My Kubota will crank in hot weather, cold weather, any weather with ease. It also uses very little fuel. It's been a great tractor. If I ever wear it out, I'll likely replace it with another Kubota. I wouldn't want one much smaller.

Turns out dreading it was worse than doing it. $90 for a rebuild kit beats the hell outta $1600 for a new trim unit! Might as well go on a replace the water pump while it's in the garage. I can't get the lower unit off the motor. I took out 5 bolts from underneath it, and it'll drop down about 1/2", and will go no further. Any ideas what's holding it? I thought this would be the easy part.

I got the top off after soaking it overnight with penetrating oil, and beating on it with a punch and hammer. Now off to youtube for advice.

Had to cut the wires. Now I can't get the damn cap off the cylinder. This is gonna be fun.

I'm going to try and rebuild a trim unit on a 95 Johnson 50 hp. I have it loose except for the wires, and for the life of me, I can't seem to figure out how to unplug them. I don't want to cut them and splice back together if I don't have to. Do you know?

Might be like me and can't get back in.

I couldn't log into the site since the upgrade until just now. Are there any others missing in action?

I thought this was standard operating procedure everywhere. It's all I have ever known.

Lack of demand. A semi auto can be had for about the same price. What would you gain by having a pump instead of a semi auto?

I use "a bucket of brass", unless I'm shooting for tiny groups. I have some Remington brass set aside for that.   Lapua is out of my price range for brass I'll be hunting for on the ground. In fact, Lapua is out of my price range period.

....and why I don't own a 300 Blackout.   That's a mighty looooooooooooong bullet! :cool:

I'd have to shoot it!

Cool! I almost bought one of these at a show a few years back. You can tell I'm a fool because I said "almost". They're a very interesting and well designed piece of American history, and one you don't see everyday.

I've never touched a flash hole. Do you really see any gain with this? If so, I'll get a tool.

A custom made holster is the best way to get what you want. Like Ron said, there are several of us here on the forum. I've yet to hear a complaint regarding any of them.

Methinks too much credence has been granted to the almighty twist rate. I have ars with 1:7, 1:8, and 1:9 barrels. Unless you get into super light or super heavy bullets, I can't tell any difference. They are all super accurate with quality loads. Buy a quality barrel and be done with it. To get more technical, bullet length is what actually affects stabilization as it relates to speed and twist rate rather than bullet weight.