MacGyver

Good to hear that you like it. Once you get a good belt, there's no going back. You wonder how you got along for so long without one.

Awesome. Congratulations.

A lot of electronics companies take a cheaper route to a common problem today that often does mean that a weak battery may cause other problems. It's pretty common today to use the same circuit that regulates current to the battery during charging to regulate power to the laptop as well. When you have a good battery, this isn't a problem. When your battery starts going bad, it can result in issues that you will notice via the OS. It doesn't seem like it would be that difficult to have two separate power regulation circuits - one to the battery and one to the motherboard. In the interest of getting computers as small as possible and as least expensive as possible, that's not the route that's chosen most of the time. Also, I'll give a +1 on going with an OEM Apple battery if you've not ordered a replacement yet. Apple specifically has introduced some pretty good tech in batteries over the last couple of years starting with the original iPhone that hasn't filtered down to the 'replacement battery' market yet. Yes, you can get a cheaper battery, but it's not going to last nearly as long as the OEM will.

Welcome

Raven concealment will make you a holster that will fit the pistol with the light attached.

It's no problem to hang onto with the smaller grips. You'll like them I think CCI maxi-mags +v have the highest velocity out of the 1 5/8 barrel. I load four cylinders with those and one with snakeshot. I keep the snakeshot indexed to be the first round fired.

The new NAAs have safety notches between cylinders instead of half cock. Carry it there and you'll be in good shape. I always have a mini in 22mag in my pocket regardless of whatever else I might be carrying. It's a fun little pistol. Tom at Guns for America ordered mine for me. He gave me a great price. Have fun with it.

If you're happy with the Geber, keep it. It's a fine blade. I love my Spyderco's (rescue, military, paramilitary), but it's just personal preference at the end of the day. They hold a good edge, fit my hand and method of carry well, and I really like the g10 scales. Notice though that on my edc setup, I've also got a Gerbet multitool. I can't reccomend benchmade from my last couple experiences with them. I think their quality control is suffering a bit.

That has made my afternoon! I don't know that I've got the fun money to spare right now, but that is awesome. What's the range (at least of the part of the golf ball that's left)?

Here's a link to the Maratac AAA. AAA Maratac Flashlight I never thought I would replace my Streamlight Microstream, as I thought that was the pinnacle of pocket flashlight design. I ordered this thing to put in a survival kit. I thought, it only weighs 20 grams - I'll give it shot. Fast forward. I received it, tried out it's 3 different brightness levels and suddenly the Streamlight got relegated to the survival kit. The light is awesome.

Here's my EDC. It has changed over the years, but these items have remained consistent. "] Left front pocket Gerber Crucial Multitool NAA 22Mag Mini-Revolver Both in a "prototype" pocket holster that was really a proof of concept, but has lasted for about 2.5 years now. Right front pocket Keys + mini prybar Lip blam Space Pen Lighter Flashlight - Maratac AAA Spyderco Paramilitary - plain edge 4-5 o'clock - Walther PPS in a DM Bullard Tuckable Right Rear Pocket - iPhone Left Rear Pocket - Wallet Marathon GSAR Watch To the OP question. I think you see a lot of Gerber's because of their overall bargin price point. I just moved the Gerber into my setup about 6 months ago - replacing a Leatherman Skeletool CSx which was clunky and heavy. To me, Spyderco is one of the best blades made today. They are fast, and my paramilitary is SPM S30V steel, which holds a great edge. I've been less than impressed by the last few manual Benchmade's I've owned. Mind you, they've been out of the "bargin" line, but neither has made it past the trial stage in my carry setup. It will be a while before I buy another. As to lights, I find one invaluable, but as a forensic specialist, I am often in dark places. The Maratac AAA that I carry right now is the brightest, toughest light in the single AA or AAA platform that I've found to date. If I know I am going to be in the dark, I'll bring a bigger light, but this one is great when you find yourself there unexpectedly.

Cool.

By law, you are not supposed to be able to open a credit account if you are under 18. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Daily. We have worked a bunch of cases over the last couple years of "credit card companies" setting up in student centers and offering free t-shirts or whatever to get students to fill out credit apps. When they do, they are handing a ready made identity theft form over to organized crime. They never get the credit card, and forget about it until they try and by a car or something and figure out that they've become a victim of identity theft. Also, everyone associates identity theft with financial loss. It is also used by criminals for insurance fraud, medical fraud and actually using your identity when they get busted for a crime. These problems are just as big as the financial ones. Bottom line. If you've got kids, start now teaching them about the sensitivity of their information. We need kids who can be advocates for themselves when they go out into the world.

That's the best way to do it. Just put it on your calendar, into Outlook, whatever.

Here's a link: GlockWorld.com: Taurus Scope Mounts Taurus® Rifle Scope Mount, 10040, Blue 1 Piece, 1" Tau

It fits into the threaded hole that is left when you remove your rear sight. No either/or with this rifle. To mount the weaver base, you have to remove the rear sight.

I'd definitely argue your case. You might not get it all back, but it's worth the shot.

So back over the Christmas holdiay I was in Atlanta visiting relatives. It was Sunday morning and I was sitting at a light when all of the sudden -WHAM - I got rear ended. I got out of the car, and as I got out noticed the clean black Grand Marquis that hit me. A uniformed officer got out of the car, and his first words were, "that was totally my fault." He was texting while driving, and nailed me. I actually got away with only minor damage. However, my trailer hitch punched through his radiator - he had to be towed off. The funny thing about this was that because we were in a city jurisdiction instead of county, and due to the fact that an off duty officer was involved in a collision, and due to the fact that he was a Major with 35 years on the force, a lot of officers had to respond. So, on my way to church on Sunday morning, I was pulled over in the Dunwoody Library parking lot looking like I must have been the unibomber. I can only imagine what passersby must have thought. All of the officers were incredibly professional despite the really awkward situation. I was genuinely impressed. I'm afraid I can't say the same for dealing with Dekalb County in getting my truck fixed, but the officers were awesome.

Sounds like you might have had a slightly bent wheel or stress fracture to begin with causing the original leak. Putting a bad wheel on a tire machine and introducing that stress could certainly make that small crack a lot bigger. I would argue your case that there was not a visible crack when you took the wheel off and try and get them to split the difference. It sounds like you would have eventually ended up buying a wheel anyway, just not the new tire(s).

Here's a dirty trick you can use, that is more effective than the DoNotCall registry. Telemarketing firms today are multinational corporations. Above anything else, they care about their bottom line. You can game the system against them. Call centers use auto-dialers to call you. That's while there is a pause at the beginning of a telemarketing call. It is waiting for the computer to connect you to a live body after it recognizes that some idiot is actually on the other end of the line. These companies databases know A LOT about you. For instance, they know that you specifically are most likely to answer the phone at 6:17CDT - because that's when your phone rings 4 times instead of 2 (meaning you are likely home because your answering machine is empty). They know that you will spend an average of 35 seconds on the phone with a female between the ages of 18 and 25, and will spend on average 4 seconds on the phone with another male. They track all of this stuff. But, at the end of the day, all they care about is the bottom line. Everytime they make a phone call it costs them money. If you answer, it costs them money. If your answering machine answers, it costs them money. They only way to make them quit calling is to make them think they are wasting money. Here's the trick - download this tone and put it at the beginning of your answering machine. http://www.scn.org/~bk269/errorbeeps45.wav The above link is to the SIT (Special Information Tone) for a disconnected number. If one of your friends calls you, they are going to hear the tone, and then your voice on the answering machine. They'll think - "that's weird" and leave their message. A computer will think differently. As soon as it hears that tone, it thinks - "uh oh, my data is corrupt. This number is not in service." It will delete your record from it's database. That's not the best part. At the end of the day, most of these companies share data through a couple of different providers, so once the auto-dialer marks you as an error, they report that back to the main computer, which will delete your record from their database. You get deleted from the Matrix if you will.

Be careful here when you purchase services from a company. I won't discuss any by name (other than my Lifelock reference above), because for the most part they all operate the same. 1. Credit monitoring is not really preventative for identity theft, but may be of use if you don't keep up with the stuff yourself (i.e. your bank statements stack up, you don't know what your credit report looks like, etc...). It's kind of like a smoke alarm. If it goes off, you've already got a problem. I have a big problem with companies that claim that their credit monitoring "prevents identity theft". It doesn't. You might find out about it faster than you would have otherwise, but you're still on fire. 2. Don't pay attention to the monetary guarantees if they fail to fix your problem. It's marketing smoke and mirrors. All of these companies pay a very few "fixers" to recover people's identities if there is an out of band problem. These are specialists who WILL get you back to what we call a pre-event status. No one has ever paid out on one of these. Ever. Some of the class actions out there concern this. 3. Really only one thing matters when you've been hit. That is, "who can recover my identity for me the fastest, and with the least pain." There are a a couple terms you should know. Partially managed, or assisted recovery and Full recovery. Partial or assisted recovery is the rough equivalent of calling AAA when you have a flat, and them telling you how to change a tire. The FTC reports that it takes the average consumer 110-130 hours to recover their identities. You don't want to deal with this. You want fully managed recovery. This is just like it sounds, you call them, they verify that you've been hit, and then they take care of it. There are no silver bullets. They sit on hold with the banks instead of you. If you are going to pay for an identity theft recovery service, make sure it's fully managed. The way to tell is to ask if they require a Limited Power of Attorney. Without it, you aren't getting fully managed recovery. Other than that, the biggest things you can do are as follows: 1. Open you bark statements and credit card statements every month. Review them. You are protected by Federal law from loss so long as you report it within a certain period of time. 2. Get your free credit reports. Again, by law you are entitled to one a year from each of the bureaus. If you play it right, you will review one about every 4 months. Go to annualcreditreport.com as opposed to freecreditreport.com. The site you see in the commercials is going to try and sell you a bunch of stuff like your FICO score and monitoring. Annualcreditreport.com gets you your reports as required by law - for free. 3. Make sure you are on the do-not-call list - http://www.donotcall.gov 4. Opt out of junkmail - here's a link https://www.dmachoice.org/dma/member/regist.action - Direct Marketing Association http://www.valassis.com/consumersupport.html - Red Plum /ADVO www.coxtarget.com/mailsuppression/s/DisplayMailSuppressionForm - Val-PAK 5. Pay Attention - If you are doing business with a company - pay attention to how they treat your data. If you look across a desk and see a big pile of other customers' information, yours is going to be in that stack when you leave. Do business with companies that earn your trust. Finally, don't forget the elderly and children. As soon as you are born today, you go into the SSA system. If you have children, or care for elderly parents or relatives, help them with this stuff. One of the most prevalent targets of identity theives is the elderly - because they don't have anyone looking out for them. Good luck

Ughh. How frustrating. Sorry.

No, for the most part companies that you already have an existing financial relationship with are not affected by the freeze. They can update information on you, and also still see your credit.

That is crazy. All I can think about is the flower pots that I've accidentally kicked over the years and broken. You've got to appreciate the guy's vision. I'd have given him the $2, too.

A credit freeze is a good idea, as a creditor (bank, car dealership, etc...) is prohibited by lay from opening any credit account in your name while a freeze is on the account. Essentially, when a creditor pulls a report on you, the report will come back saying the person has a credit freeze on their account. They won't be able to pull credit until you remove the freeze. The (possible) downside is you going to apply for credit and forgetting you have the freeze in place. It takes a couple days to process the information, so you may have to wait while it's lifted if you forget about it. In Tennesse it costs 7.50 to institute a freeze, and is free to lift it. If you are an identity theft victim, it's free. So, for instance, if you have received one of the Blue Cross Blue Shield letters recently, you can get it for free. You have to apply with all three bureaus - Transunion, Equifax and Experian. Don't go with Lifelock, they are a waste of money and currently involved in several class actions regarding the legitimacy of their product. PM me if you have questions. As a forensics specialist, this is something that I am involved in a lot. I'd be happy to have you give me a call and point you in the right direction. Here's a quick link to Transunion's information TransUnion Personal: Security Freeze ? Freezing Your TransUnion Credit File