wileecoyote

I have used bbq paint, all the tough hardware store versions including krylon, and several cheaper refinishing products. But for a working hunting gun, and most metal objects that will be outdoors, I would recommend the high temp engine paint from any auto parts store. Still cheap, protects up to 1200F, and is very durable.

I did forget about the insanely hard bolt spring, which is indeed a pain. And the drum mags are a little bit of work to install and remove. BUT.... I have had absolutely no quality or functioning issues whatever, and I know at least 4 other people that own these (both Kahr and Thompson) and they have never had any issues either. So I wouldn't be discouraged by a single bad review, every gun has a few bad lemons out there somewhere. And in fact I do still like mine, and doubt I'll ever sell it. It's just cool to look at, share with new shooters, and shoot (and then clean) very rarely. Just wanted to share the ups and downs with you in case you had visions of shooting often, running it with one hand, or cleaning it up in short order like most other guns. As long as you are aware of the unique properties of this gun then it's still a great investment, just not worth an extreme amount IMHO. Now go get one!

I've got a nice one, deluxe kit with original factory custom fit case, drum mag, several stick mags in both sizes, several vintage WWII mags and original WWII mag pouches, military cleaning kit, and optional factory violin case too. I was thrilled to get it, shot it only a few times, cleaned it with a microscope, and has been in the safe ever since. I have to admit it's cool to have, but it is also not as nice or as much fun as I had envisioned. It's extremely heavy unloaded, and an absolute anvil when loaded especially with a full drum. Cleaning is a pain if you do it right, especially the mags. And the bullets travel so slow out the long barrel that you can actually see them on the way to the target. Accuracy is marginal, and decent ammo is not so cheap anymore. Loading the drum mags is tedious, and if you don't do it right they won't run properly. Not trying to discourage you, just suggesting that it's not worth paying a small fortune for 1 unless you really want a good looking safe queen.

This is starting to get old. I made yet another trip to the mailbox in torrential rain, no joy. I really do think willis took our money and headed for cancun.

I personally dislike night sights on most of my guns. They are harder to see and acquire a target picture during daylight hours, and if it is dark enough at night to require night sights then you probably are not justified in shooting at a target when you can't see it well enough for a positive identification. They do help with general alignment of the gun in a dark bedroom or similar barricaded position, when you might want to align with the door or hall entrance, but in most of those scenarios the distances are likely to be short thus fine aiming is usually less important, and if a known threat busts down my locked safe room door then I am going to repel the threat with a defensive shotgun or rifle first anyway, so I feel that night sights are neat and I own a few but I view them as mostly a novelty, and I rarely carry them on my primary concealment gun.   CDNN has a great example of several Sig factory sight posts (regular and night sights) very reasonably priced, and they often have other models to choose from. I have also found sights from other vendors including Amazon, MidwayUSA, and a few others depending on the sales and coupons, and I have some connections in LEO and GOV that can sometimes get me them pretty cheap, but once again I don't buy them too often.   I have seen the cheap DAK trade-ins which you speak of, and have been watching them on the used and wholesale markets for a long while. I was really tempted to get one, and I might eventually do so, but after doing the research I found that it would cost nearly $200 or more to convert the DAK to DA/SA, in which case it is cheaper for me to just buy a DA/SA gun. And I don't really like shooting 40 at all, as it is less effective than the 357 for most defense needs IMHO, so if I purchased a Sig 40 then I have to buy at least one new barrel to convert it to 357 or 9mm, so the 40s don't have much appeal to me other than to add to the collection when I get a real bargain, or to add a 40 barrel to the 357 gun to make it more flexible.   I also found the DA/SA transition a bit odd when I first started shooting and collecting Sigs nearly 30 years ago, but I quickly grew to like and prefer it, especially on a Sig that I have tuned for my personal needs with the proper grips, short reach trigger, action job, etc. I still use plenty of DAO guns too, but my favorite is Sig DA/SA in most cases, although the Sig P250 is pretty hard to beat for a polymer DA.

Good info Pete.   Sig is my favorite brand, so I have owned, shot, and worked on MANY of their pistols. A few comments:   You can get Barsto barrels for the P229 to convert it from 40 or 357 to 9mm (but not the reverse) without buying the new slide kit from Sig. Many people report using these barrels with the 40/357 slides and mags with no issues, so it is worth a try considering that the Sig conversion kits are very pricey. Beats the heck out of buying multiple guns, and allows flexibility to shoot what ammo you have on hand.   The DAK guns are actually pretty nice and allow consistent shot-to-shot experience, which is great for defense and some other scenarios, so the only thing I don't like about it is that it is not cheap to convert a DAK back to a standard DA/SA or DAO configuration. So I prefer to buy Sigs which are either DA/SA or DAO, as they can more easily and cheaply be switched back and forth, although my personal preference is DA/SA.   I totally dislike a railed pistol, at least the metal frames, as they almost always have sharp edges which can be uncomfortable and accelerate holster or clothing wear, and I generally don't use rails on my pistols anyway. For me a defensive pistol is almost always carried concealed and likely to be shot quickly at close quarters, so I want it to be as small and light as possible, and I don't really need or want the rail gadgets anyway. For home defense, where lights or lasers might be a bit more helpful, I would prefer to have those gadgets on my shotgun or defense rifle, and only use the pistol as a backup.   Now on the subject of CPO vs. police trades, I have seen MANY of both. My experience is that most police trades will have more finish wear but very little actual usage, so they typically function perfectly after a detailed dis-assembly and cleaning/lube. So the difference is mostly cosmetic, and even that can be very minimal if you are lucky to find some police trades that are in VG to EXC condition. The one exception here is usually the models with night sights, as most brands have a life expectancy of 10 years and the trades are typically 4-6+ years old when you get them, thus they are typically pretty dim. But in this case I tend to replace them with new night sights (usually $50-$80) or standard contrast sights ($20-$30) and they are just fine. If you buy trades in FAIR to GOOD condition then the other issue you see (besides more finish wear) is worn magazine springs and followers, but those too are easily and cheaply replaced. So in most cases the CPO guns are not worth the extra cost, at least to me since I can easily get the Sig parts and I have all the gunsmith tools and experience to do my own work. In fact that's one of the things I enjoy the most about the trades... the process of restoring them is pretty fun, although now it typically takes me quite a while due to an injury from a year ago.   And finally, I have read several books and scientific studies (well over 2,000 pages) regarding ballistic performance on human threats in defensive situations, and I am convinced that with modern ammo the .357 Sig is perhaps the single best caliber from a sheer performance / shootability perspective. The only downside is that it is less common ammo so it tends to cost a bit more, but reloading helps to solve that issue, and if ammo is in short supply you can just switch the barrel and shoot 9mm or 40 from the same gun.   Thus I have picked up a few of the Sigs above, and I am due to pick them up in the morning, I can hardly wait. I will share my results here later after I have inspected the goods.

I've got a tool in Lebanon, happy to meet up with you over coffee or lunch if you want to make the drive.

Your eBay account address is not related to your PayPal account address, they can be different, and only the PayPal address is verified. So hypothetically: Sam Smith creates eBay account #1 with a mailing address in TN, and links his PayPal account to it that also has a mailing address in TN. Then he creates eBay account #2 with a mailing address in GA, and links the same PayPal account to it (with the TN mailing address). When Sam buys an item on ebay from a seller listed in TN, he will only be charged TN sales tax if he buys it with eBay account #1. If Sam buys the same item with eBay account #2 he will not be charged TN sales tax regardless of how he pays through PayPal.

FYI: you can list any address you want in your online eBay account profile, and you can even create a second account with a different address. EBay should not charge you tax as long as the state listed on your account address is different than the state listed on the seller's account address, which is visible in every item listing.

I don't think you can fairly judge ammo or a gun to be faulty after only 18 rounds, and certainly not with them being fired consecutively all by the same shooter. What was the average group size or deviation from point of aim? I can't imagine many scenarios where it would have been more than an inch or so off the mark at 7 yards, assuming the gun was not defective/dirty and the shooter did everything perfectly. As a firearms instructor that has taught hundreds of students over 30 years, the only time I see rounds "going all over the place" is when the shooter is doing something wrong or inconsistent. Sometimes it's not immediately obvious to anyone, like they had both eyes opened and their brain temporarily locked onto the image from the eye opposite their firing hand, or some other subtle cause like grip or position changes. If your gun was indeed shooting groups with large variance (>3") from point of aim at 7 yards, and the shooter was doing everything as perfect as a ransom rest, then I'd not shoot it again until checked by a gunsmith. Hope you figure it out.

I don't understand. I braved 400' of ice and snow to check the mailbox once again, and yet my RUNTS still had not arrived. This was the same false alarm as the last update from willis. Is this an internet scam? Is willis from Nigeria? WTF? LOL :D Sent, and thanks!

In some 357 revolvers, the extra distance traveled by the 38 bullet in the chamber before it enters the forcing cone can introduce slight accuracy issues, particularly if one or more chambers are heavily fouled, out of spec, or the cylinder is not timed and locked up perfectly. The 357 shells have more velocity and the bullets enter the forcing cone almost immediately so there's less impact from the issues above. So before you blame the ammo, eliminate the other variables by cleaning the gun thoroughly including a deep scrub of the residue built up inside the chambers, then shoot at least 6 cylinders full of the same ammo, and mark the results from each chamber on the target to see if specific chambers are more or less accurate. Also let another shooter try the same, with both of you shooting from a seated bench with proper wrist supports, to eliminate the human variables as much as possible. Then before you switch to 357, clean the gun again and repeat.

These just went down another $50 to $419 on sale, still free shipping. I just got my tax refund and couldn't resist, got a few on the way. Thanks for sharing.

Has to be a joke, no prices and no way to order.

You need to take the NRA online range development course. It will teach you everything you need to know to be successful. http://www.nraonlinetraining.org/mod/page/view.php?id=17 They also have a live conference but this requires travel, still probably worth it if you are serious... http://rangeservices.nra.org/range-development-conference.aspx

So does anyone have the street addresses of these camps? Google Earth pics showing buildings and facilities details? Videos or photos of illegal activities? If I lived near there and suspected anything odd, I'd fly a drone over and get some video footage of the actual activities, then call the local authorities. Unless someone has actual proof of illegal activities taking place, the whole thing is just a big conspiracy theory. I have a large chunk of private land outside city limits. It's fenced and highly secured. I shoot and do other legal things at various times which many liberals (and presumably some of my nearest neighbors) might find unusual or objectionable, and I occasionally have a few friends over to do the same. I am also a certified instructor and occasionally teach friends and family. This doesn't make me a terrorist or my property a terror training camp, and I sure don't want the government coming to do a welfare check on me. Just saying there's a fine line between paranoia, suspicion, and illegal activities, so we should let the presence (or absence) of factual detailed evidence be our guide before we rally the troops.

I don't find it funny either. Someone could have easily been seriously injured or killed. Completely irresponsible of the gun owner, highly negligent, and not in any way supportive of our continuing safety and freedoms.

Congrats on your success and recent acquisitions. I've worked on literally thousands of guns, and find that almost anything can be made to function reliably given enough effort and attention. Many times its just a proper cleaning and lube, sometimes different ammo or a repair. But I wouldn't classify a Sig 1911 or PK380 as problematic, those guns run all day long. Try your luck with a Jennings, Lorcin, Bryco, or some of the really old junk guns and see how well you can do. They are still doable but more of a challenge, especially after some idiot has been at them with a dremel or worse.

I just braved a 400' stretch of steep driveway which is covered with solid ice, and finally made it to my mailbox after hours of slipping and falling. Only to find that my RUNT had not been delivered yet. WTF? ;-)

Great idea. It does work. Just remember that the gun is not secure, so you will need to remove and secure it anytime visitors or unauthorized folks are in the area. They sell more substantial versions of the same thing... http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/quick-draw-gun-magnet?a=465891 http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/lockdown-gun-concealment-magnet?a=1564510

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It's very simple, legal, much cheaper, quick, and easy to buy 2 ingredients and make your own tannerite. Of course mixing it and using it is possibly a problem depending on where you live, but it's still legal to own the 2 components and store them separately, safely.

Cool place, wish there were lots of them all over the country. I wish someone would help the gal toting an SA Blackhawk tied low on her knee in a floppy holster. Bad idea for defense, especially for a busy waitress in a crowded place. Doing that (especially on video) makes them look uneducated or reckless, and it would be best to broadcast a more consistent and modern message. But still cool.

^^^This. I don't mind a property owner deciding what is acceptable on their property, but they can't declare the inside of my vehicle as their property. If they don't want guns in parked vehicles on their property, then they shouldn't operate a parking lot on their land. Their right to manage their property does not trump my 2A rights. And if by some absurd rationale they are allowed to ban guns from vehicles (forcing you to be completely unarmed when you go to or from the parking lot) then they should be liable for providing ample security and liable for any damages or injuries which may occur from the lack thereof.