Clod Stomper

I've used both of those methods as well. Then I had a wood dowel split and I then had a bullet AND a wood dowel stuck in the bore. So I don't use wood any more.

  If I were in the Middle East and had to get my weapon firing again in a hurry, I'd do the same thing.     But in my back yard with my pistol AR, I'm gonna be as gentle as possible.

  He he...  And unlike real pron, this was actually a true story...

  Yeesh.  That gives me the shivers just thinking about it.   I'm impressed by the epoxy holding the screw to the rod.  I've used some (1-Ton Epoxy, or something like that) that was super strong.  Couldn't believe how well it held.     Isn't it amazing how much we can put bores through and they still work?  This wasn't my first foul-up, by any means.   Edit:  That reminds me of an article I read many years ago about someone shooting a full-auto M-10 .45.  If memory serves me right, they had a squib load that was enough to push the bolt back and several more rounds fired after it.  It ended up being 6 or 7 bullets lodged in the bore of that MAC.  Don't think there was any major catastrophe.  Just stuck bullets.  

Well, I'm a tinkerer. So sometimes I screw things up. Which happened recently when I was trying to make a subsonic load with surplus 147 grain tracers and Trail Boss in .300 Blk. (BTW, don't try that combo. It ain't worth the trouble.) So, skipping the drama of getting the bullet stuck... I needed to get it unstuck. No longer being one to run to the nearest gunsmith, I have to figure out how to drive that bullet outta there on my own. First things first. I have some Kroil handy, so I dribble a bunch down the bore to hopefully help ease the bullet's path back out of the bore. (By the way, the bullet was a couple inches past the chamber into the bore.) The first tool I ran across was some hollow steel tube I've had forever. I try using that to hammer the bullet out backwards. Not happening. Even though the tubing is pretty thick-walled, it starts to expand around the nose of the pointed bullet and actually engages the rifling enough to spin when I pull it back out. Uh-oh. Hope I didn't scratch my bore. Well, it's really stuck, so I have to start getting serious. First I run to Ace Hardware in Bearden. I pick up some 1/4" steel rod (hot-rolled, in case you are wondering). I also get some 1/4" heat-shrink tubing to apply to the rod to protect my bore. I cut off an appropriate amount of the 4' rod (I have an 11.5" barrel, so I cut off 12" of rod). I bevel/round the edge so I won't scratch the bore. I then polish the entire end of the rod with 1500 grit sandpaper so that there is no chance I can scratch the bore. I want the end of the rod to stay centered in the bore, so I want to drill an "indention" or cone-shaped crater in the end of the rod. Well, my lathe is at my Dad's house and I'm in Knox, so I drill a 1/4" hole in a piece of wood (I happened to have a piece of 5/4 (1") deck board handy). I insert the 1/4' rod halfway through the hole and put a drill bit (driven by a cordless drill) through the other side and start drilling. It works as intended and I have a rod with a concavity in the end (no jokes here, please). Here's where I screw up again. I wanted a deeper hole in the end. So I use a smaller drill bit, thinking it will stay centered in the rod. It doesn't and I now have a rod with an off-center hole in the end. <snicker> Oh well. It'll have to do. I re-bevel and re-polish the end of the rod.... Starting near the end I've been filing on, I put some heat-shrink tubing about 1/4" from the end and heat it until it's tight. I keep on adding (about 2 and a half pieces total) until I am about an inch from the other end. Then I dribble some more Kroil in the bore from the muzzle end and some into the chamber end. I drop my new driving rod into the muzzle and start tapping (with enthusiasm). The bullet starts moving immediately and I just hammer it until it falls out through the chamber. Pics to follow... Edit: Ok, I normally use Flickr, but something has changed on their site. So no pics until I can figure it out. They're not that interesting anyway. Sort of an afterthought really...

  That's what I figure.  Can't be too hard to convert to "semi-auto".  Oh, quelle horreur!  Yeah, they'll wet their panties and add it to the ban list.  

  I think I saw some H110 at David's tables at the gun show this past weekend.  Maybe he'll have some wherever he sets up next.     HEY!  There he is ^

I'm not implying anything by this this question, I am genuinely curious. Did you really carry a Garand in the Army?

If you have a Hi-Point, it is required (by law) that you carry it in the open in an Uncle Mike's nylon holster anytime you shop at Walmart. I'm pretty sure.

I was too. I kinda miss King of the Hill too.

Went yesterday and today. There is a ton of .22, but all at ridonkulous prices. And I didn't see anyone buying any. I don't get it. Somebody must be buying it at stupid prices or this foolishness would have stopped. Anyway, picked up some AR parts. One table had a heck of a deal on Magpul CTRs with a riser. J&T had a box full of blem parts. Of course I found it after I'd bought some stuff elsewhere. Btw, they're still open if someone is looking for a CTR stock.

Heh. Note the name of one of the commenters.

Not only that, Melonited/nitrocarburized/nitrided or whatever they want to call it, is allegedly harder and more accurate due to less distortion of the bore. Chrome adds a layer to the bore. Melonite does not. Regardless. Even with an untreated barrel, go ahead and buy a couple more. If you can afford the ammo to shoot out a CM barrel, you can afford a few more barrels.

I miss Brittany Murphy.

How many do you need? I have some Grendel brass with Berdan primers. Just a handful, though. Good luck finding someone willing to give up good Grendel or Beowulf brass. Especially Beowulf. :) Oh, forgot to mention that the headstamp doesn't say "Grendel".

Oh snap!   Ummm... whatever a strap-on is, I mean...

This OC vs CC debate is why I always display my HCP Badge right next to my gat.  It dispels any doubt that I am duly authorized and endowed by the state with the authority to carry, openly or concealed, any handgun of my choosing.  Including my AR pistol.     So when some jackwad civilian comments on my method of carry, they might end up face down on the concrete with the muzzle of my heater on the back of their head.                 P.S.:  The above is nothing but satire.  Just in case someone didn't realize....

If Bass Pro in Kodak doesn't, make a call to Sportsman's Warehouse in Chattanooga.  It's a pretty good drive, but they have a pretty good selection.  But call before you drive, of course.

      Makes sense.  Thanks for the clarification.

I'm going to try to be at this one.     Please post when you'll be there.  I'll do do a drive-by handshake.  :)   I need to pick up some AR stuff.  Hope they have what I want.   Will

  Wait....  When did ar15.com and m4carbine.net merge?

Why isn't that an AOW? Is it because it kind of looks like a gun when it's ready to fire?

For heavy bullets and/or long barrels, I like H110/W296 (same difference). Look up some loads at the Hodgdon website. Max or near-max loads and a good crimp like leroy said. Work it up properly, of course. I think H110 tends to be a bit forgiving at max charges, but don't try to go too light with it.

I carry a Glock 31. I don't really pay attention to what I wear. I just keep a couple button up shirts to go over it when necessary. Dropped the whole rig? Yep, I've done it. Not proud of it, but it's happened. At least it wasn't in public. I once had my Bersa model 85 bounce out of a cheap nylon holster and go skidding down our gravel driveway. I was just teenager at the time though, so don't judge me too harshly.

For getting started in handloading, I like the Lyman manual. For load data, it can be found online at the company's website.