79troublehead

6?

Get William Brophys book on the Krag. 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/qKHeXC7L85s?rel=0

Dumped dish and picked up a roku. Only problem I've found is a tendency to watch a whole series of shows. Not all at once, but like reading a book series. Plus the commercial breaks were great for fixing a snack.

I like her camo though.

Welcome to 21st century America. We hope you like it here, once you've learned the language.

fyi, the gun was made by High Standard, as the model 34. 

nose of bullet.

Well, you boys are going to laugh, but I've used STP on a lube pad for years and never stuck a case. 

Thanks for the help. Sportsmans Guide had Winchester white box at 27 bucks with free shipping. And although the thought of a 1000 rounds of .25 acp is strangely alluring, I reckon a 50 round box will satisfy any function checks, and leave a tidy reserve for zombie chipmunks.

I reload for 9mm, .38 spec., .44 mag, .22-250, .223. .45 acp, 7mm x 57, .300 sav., .308, .30-06,and even an 8mm-06, but I'm not ready to buy dies shell-holders brass bullets etc for my one lone orphan .25. Although 1 lb of bullseye and a pound of lead would go quite a ways.

You can indeed use a 'pistol' powder in rifle loads, I've used Unique, 2400, 4227, 296, in calibers from .375 h&h (with a .375 round ball used in .36 cap and ball firearms), to .22 hornet with complete safety. The danger is in loading the same quantity of faster burning 'pistol' powder as would be used in a slower burning 'rifle' powder.  All gun powders burn, but it is the rate of burning (expansion rate of gases) that raises pressures. This is a very simplified answer, but it covers the basics. In a closer example, as far as burning rates; 15 gr. of 2400 in a .357 with a 158 gr bullet (for example), would be a fairly stout but safe load, whereas a 15 gr. load of Bullseye would make a pretty decent grenade.

Even their #11 percussion caps suck.  Fire a RWS and a Remington cap side by side, and it is like a cap pistol and a .45.

A bulk buy of .25 for me would be a 50 round box. That should see me to the end of my days, and leave a little for the kids to shoot.  I just need enough to function check this little rebuilt Bernadelli, and refill the magazine when I'm done. Some will show up, I'm supporting a .30-40 krag and a .300 savage, so keeping an eye out for ammo is second nature.

I've shot a bunch of their .300 BO 150gr stuff with no problems.  A bunch (to me) means around 150-180 rds in the last 3 weeks or so.  But nary a hick up, and this was bought in Dec.  It was shot in a new built 16" upper with carbine gas system.

I'm on everybodies notify list, so if they get it, I'm on it.  As for their pricing; shipping eats up any potential savings. Midway's got some Hornady self defense hollow-point super tactical FBI loads for about a buck and a quarter a pop.  I'll just keep poking around, some's bound to turn up.

Not to start any kind of panic buying or hoarding, but has anyone noticed the shortage of .25 acp? I scrounged for weeks finding the parts to put an old 1950's Bernadelli VP back into shooting shape, just to find there is nothing to shoot in the wee darlin'!  I can't believe we've shot up the entire inventory of .25 auto, so if anyone in the mid-Tn./Cumberland Plateau area sees any, I would be obliged to hear of it.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/01/what-happens-when-you-load-pistol-powder-in-a-rifle-cartridge/

I've got a 99eg in .300 sav. that's never been drilled and tapped. I've put a tang mounted peep sight on it, and it's a fairly decent 100 yard deer rifle. Can't bring myself to drill it, but as I get older it'll get out less and less. Got an old Remington model 30 (Remington factory modified 1917 enfield action) with the same problem, just don't like scopes on them old classics.

Sam Watson is the same boy as in Burn's documentary. Shelby Foote (big reading) or Bruce Catton (big reading also) will also be worth the effort.

Fuel injected and computerized, your temp sensor will read a cold engine and enrich the fuel mixture.  Use more gas and possible foul plugs. 

Got it on the 19th. Leaking from both ends and wobbly as a baby giraffe. Lasted about 2 days serious, and 2 days semi-tough.

If you're removing screws installed by someone else, maybe years before, I usually apply a little heat to the screw head (soldering iron tip) before applying a bunch of force to remove it. People will apply a little loctite to scope mount screws, and the heat will loosen it. Plus the heat will expand the screw slightly, loosening any rust between hole and screw. Just my $.02 .

A 1972 Harley FLH in medium ratty shape, but all there. Now Santa will come and spread cheer to chrome shops, painters, and bike shops and swap meets throughout the southeast.