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Knife sharpening.


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Guest coldblackwind

Go to the gunshows in nashville, and franklin (this weekend), there is usually a guy there that sharpens anything you want for like $3.

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Guest jackdm3

This is a skill you should learn. Get a dull knife you can practice on. Soft Arkansas stone with a mild amount of honing oil to an average edge. Hard Arkansas stone "peeling" a thin layer off the stone, one side at a time, keeping it wet. Test it on cardboard (I like cola 12-pack boxes) until you're satisfied. My CRKT SRT M16 - 13LE has two different angles on the blade. Your application of proper honing angles can overcome such blades. If you use the knife at all, you'll be resharpening more often you would want to pay someone else. Once you've turned that old knife into a real cutting tool, you'll want to do more!

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Guest Muttling

In addition to the gun shows, there's a number of specialty cooking places that sharpen knives. $3 for a sharpening is a GREAT price on anything more than a pocket knife. If you can find that, jump on it (especially for an initial sharpening.)

Doing it yourself is all about using the right amount of oil, holding a consistent angle and being patient. There is a fine art to honing a blade. The blades made from harder steels are more difficult to sharpen, but hold an edge for a very long time.

If you get a pro to put the first edge on the knife, touching it up will be a lot easier.

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I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker, it works pretty well. It also comes with a instruction book and DVD that will help you get started.

These are a great sharpener as are Lansky Diamond, DMT, Gatco, etc. Anything that will help you hold the angle will be beneficial. Regular Stones are difficult to hold the angle on for a beginner and depending on the steel in the knife, you could be there forever trying to get it done with a stone. Try a diamond.

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Jack is right. Lots of good advice here:

This is a skill you should learn. Get a dull knife you can practice on. Soft Arkansas stone with a mild amount of honing oil to an average edge. Hard Arkansas stone "peeling" a thin layer off the stone, one side at a time, keeping it wet. Test it on cardboard (I like cola 12-pack boxes) until you're satisfied. My CRKT SRT M16 - 13LE has two different angles on the blade. Your application of proper honing angles can overcome such blades. If you use the knife at all, you'll be resharpening more often you would want to pay someone else. Once you've turned that old knife into a real cutting tool, you'll want to do more!

Knife sharpening is a pretty important skill. It has been my experience that much of the problem with sharpening actually comes from getting the knife edge 'too sharp" (i know, it sounds crazy). The old timers called it a "wire edge". The "wire edge" is an extraordinarily thin edge that will bend or "turn" as the old guys said and appears to be dull. The "wire edge" needs to be broken off to expose the real cutting edge -- usually by "stropping" (stropping is simply rrubbing the edge in the trailing position (the opposite of "slicing the stone)) against a leather or canvas srop. You may want to re-try the sharpening thing, then strop the edge on some old leather.

Also, here is a good resource for sharpening: Amazon.com: The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening (9780446380027): John Juranitch: Books

Its a little old, but full of good information. By the way, once a knife is sharpened correctly, its pretty easy to touch up the edge with few licks on a stone and strop to keep it sharp.

Kind regards,

LEROY

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This is a skill you should learn. Get a dull knife you can practice on. Soft Arkansas stone with a mild amount of honing oil to an average edge. Hard Arkansas stone "peeling" a thin layer off the stone, one side at a time, keeping it wet. Test it on cardboard (I like cola 12-pack boxes) until you're satisfied. My CRKT SRT M16 - 13LE has two different angles on the blade. Your application of proper honing angles can overcome such blades. If you use the knife at all, you'll be resharpening more often you would want to pay someone else. Once you've turned that old knife into a real cutting tool, you'll want to do more!

It is a skill that I can do... but not on the level that I am wanting. I can get the blade "adequately sharp" but I am looking to get it back to it's original edge. Or as close as possible anyway. Thanks for all the input from everyone.

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I usually sharpen my own knives. Before a friend showed me, I could not do it. Now after he showed me I can get them very sharp. It is not that hard and kinda fun too.

The only thing I have not tried is a ceramic chef's knife. I'm thinking it may be a different method.

h

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I have a 3 stone oil sharpener by Norton.

I sharpen my wifes chefs knives 2 times a year.

It works very well. You can shave with them.

If you use the stone too much, you will wear the blade down

prematurelly and wear it out.

Doing it yourself is the best way to learn.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening is a great resource; I never use oil, only water or dry. Once the edge has the right shape it will only require a quick touch up, I use a fine ceramic or a dremel tool with a buffing wheel & metal polish for this. I keep my defensive knife razor sharp & carry a superknife for daily cutting chores - but I touch up the blade in it every few days, I mostly cut open boxes at work. If you cut open boxes & the glue from the tape accumulates on the blade I have found that Goo gone cleans a blade well as you cant use or sharpen a blade with glue on it very well.

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I have a CRKT that I could never get sharp. Then I finally got it RAZOR sharp buy adding a micro bevel. A micro bevel is where you first sharpen the knife to as sharp as you can get it. Then change the angle you are sharpening at by about 3-5 more degrees. this forms a small more "blunt" but still very sharp edge. It also helps in edge stability. It puts more metal behind the edge. I know you would think it would makes it duller, and in a very small way it does. But CRKT likes to use soft steel, and I never had any edge luck unless it was Micro Beveled.

Do you happen to know the grind on the knife?

Chisel, Flat, Scandi, Hollow?

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Guest Drewsett

I don't know much about sharpening pocket knives, hunting knives, or tactical knives, but alot of experience with kitchen knives (I was a chef at a 4 star restaurant for awhile). I know that the proper application of a good steel to a knife will do wonders for maintaining your edge. I use the steel before and after each use of my knives before they are stored in the block. My butcher knives (6 and 9 in), chef's knives (8, 10, 12 in) stay razor sharp and can cleave through bone like it's butter, and still do fine knifework like shaving meats, vegetables, preparing whole fish for service, and just about anything you'd ask.

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I got one of these last week

Apex 4 kit

These are what companies that you send knives into use, A guy I work with offshore had one and he sharpened everyone's knife on the vessel. My Microtech LUDT has ONLY been sent into Microtech for sharpening, he guaranteed me that it would come out as sharp as what they do and there would be absolutely no scratches and a mirror finish after he was done, reluctantly I let him do it I was able to fillet paper and it actually was as sharp if not sharper than Microtech has done. I had to have one so I bought the kit and am practicing on cheap knifes. This was quite expensive but knowing that I will be able to do as good as Microtech sharpening my knifes, I believe this was a bargain!!!!

Edited by willis68
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I use a pocket diamond rod, I hike a lot and carry with me for my field knife and pocketknife. Works pretty good, and it isn't hard to use. To me, stones and oil are obsolete and inefficient. I mean, they do the job, but I can do the same with my diamond rod.

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