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Complete disassembly and reassembly of a 1911


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I just got through doing a complete disassembly and reassembly of my Springfield 1911 . It wasnt near as bad as I thought it would be. I can do my Glock in a heartbeat but the 1911 isnt all that bad :). What I was kinda scared of was the sear and disconnector. But I am pretty amazed. Just thought I'd share my new discovery with you guys.

I am now really thinking of starting to do one from scratch from a bare frame and slide :D

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Didn't leave an idiot scratch?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

No , not one , but SEVERAL ! hahahaha but I figure it was a learning experience and I dont care about a few scratches . It is a carry gun and it had a few already. It sure helped me learn how the internals worked. I knew the basics but now I know ALOT of how the 1911 functions.

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Now since you've mastered the children's puzzles, now it's time to put on your big boy pants and do some DA and SA revolver takedowns and maybe try your hand at a Sig or Beretta.

Just wait, if you ever get your hands on a Taurus PT1911. They have extra parts around the sear/disconnector for their hammer locks.

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Now since you've mastered the children's puzzles, now it's time to put on your big boy pants and do some DA and SA revolver takedowns and maybe try your hand at a Sig or Beretta.

Just wait, if you ever get your hands on a Taurus PT1911. They have extra parts around the sear/disconnector for their hammer locks.

I have a manual on the complete disassembly of my Beretta/Stoeger Cougar in .45ACP which is my avatar picture. There is way more parts to it so that will be a while for me:D

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I take all the guns that I get and if it's going to end up going to my Dad for any reason, I make a powerpoint with instructions on disassembly and reassembly for him just incase he ever has to take them apart. They are pretty helpful for him. Sig's aren't all that bad just take a little finess to get some of the parts out.

It is good to see that there are still some people out there that aren't afraid to take their firearms completely apart.

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A lot of guns seem daunting at first but once you take them apart you realize it isn't that bad. Before I took apart a 1911 for the first time I was sure a thousand little ball bearings and 500 little springs would explode like a hand grenade all over the table. Another one that people seem to think are problematic are 10/22 triggers. They are not bad either I would say less complicated than a 1911.

The easiest by far is a semi auto AR-15.

Now you need to work on upgrading that 1911. Fitting parts can add a bit of a challenge to the 1911 but if you take your time it is not bad at all. BTW, there are very few true "drop in" parts for a 1911. Almost every part in a 1911 needs to be fitted.

Dolomite

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A lot of guns seem daunting at first but once you take them apart you realize it isn't that bad. Before I took apart a 1911 for the first time I was sure a thousand little ball bearings and 500 little springs would explode like a hand grenade all over the table. Another one that people seem to think are problematic are 10/22 triggers. They are not bad either I would say less complicated than a 1911.

The easiest by far is a semi auto AR-15.

Now you need to work on upgrading that 1911. Fitting parts can add a bit of a challenge to the 1911 but if you take your time it is not bad at all. BTW, there are very few true "drop in" parts for a 1911. Almost every part in a 1911 needs to be fitted.

Dolomite

I took out the ILS and put in a regular MSH from Wilson Combat . That way it is now a "regular" 1911 and has no stupid key lock. I also brought the main spring and recoil springs back up to specs with a new ones from Wilson Combat . And with replacing the MSH after taking out the ILS I had to put in new hammer strut pins and all . When I replaced the MSH I got a nice flat one . I love this gun now ! Here is a pic I just took of it . No fancy stuff just a pure working gun and no more ILS !!!!

1911.jpg

Edited by tercel89
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I am now really thinking of starting to do one from scratch from a bare frame and slide :up:

I'm not going quite from scratch but I'm on the verge of ordering one of the Fusion Firearms frame kits in 10mm. I'll probably be spending a lot more time in this subforum as I try to figure it out.

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I'm not going quite from scratch but I'm on the verge of ordering one of the Fusion Firearms frame kits in 10mm. I'll probably be spending a lot more time in this subforum as I try to figure it out.

I have been eyeballing those for a little over a year now. They are great for the money especially when you consider you are onyl buying what you want. Normally people buy a gun then toss out all the factory parts they paid for when they replace them.

Dolomite

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Shawn,

Buy a couple of springs for that SA 1911 and an extra sear, disconnector and hammer. Also get a trigger of your choice, maybe even a blank. Then do a complete trigger job. Make sure you have one really good stone with very sharp edges. You never know some oversize pins might add finesse to the job. That is about all the further I have gone. Peening, squeezing and hand fitting rails to frams seems to require more tools than I want to get into. Fitting an oversize bushing would probably be doable at home. I studied on fitting lugs to slide and fitting the hood but would rather see it done in person. Having said all that I traded off my last 1911 project gun. It worked well but is now a project gun for a fella that wants to teach himself more aspects of 1911 work.

As for DA revolvers S&W and Rugers aren't bad. Either is nearly as easy as the 1911 but require a little more finesse. I've never fit an oversize hand in a revolver and like fitting a 1911 barrel to the slide I would like to watch someone do it.

I don't like to mess with Charters with knocking out the frame pins. In my estimation unless it is to replace a broken part there isn't much gained by opening up Charter and Taurus revolvers.

Even though it is modular design the S&W M&P can be trickey. Having to remove the rear sight to access slide innards is bad juju unless you have a good sight tool. Then you have a very easy to lose sear spring in the frame.

One of my friends has given me an Erma "Luger" take a look at as it doesn't work right and a Walther SP22 that he sort of wrecked. I sort of dread even starting these two. The Walther not so much but the Erma... I did an Erma before in .380 but vaguely remember it wasn't fun.

10/22s and Ruger MK series .22 pistols are comparatively easy except for the already mentioned safety detent ball and spring in the pistols, which are much larger than the S&W M&P sear plunger and spring.

Where possible use a "cheater" pin to keep things together in both disassembly and reassembly. I always forget that.

I would like to hang out with some smith who knows his way around milling, using a lathe and soldering just to see how a pro uses those tools.

Edited by graycrait
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