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Savage bolt gun chambered in 7.62x39


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I am getting ready to start another bolt gun project. I have narrowed the choices down to7.62x39 and 300 blk. Building them is going to cost the same between the calibers. But I think I have already made up my mind.

I am going to be using a Lee neck die and a Redding body die for sizing duties. I can't seem to locate the same for 300 blackout so to use this setup I will need to stick with the x39. I like seperating my neck sizing and body sizing operations for brass life.

I like the x39 because in a SHTF situation ammo will be available more readily than the 300 blk. Ammo now is cheap and readily available. I have also reloaded steel case ammo before without issue if brass cases become hard to find.

I will be using a 308 bore. Shooting factory ammo is not a problem because I have done it in the past without issue. As a matter of fact it shot very, very well out of a 308 bore.

I also plan on suppressing the gun and shooting 200+ grain bullet sout of it.

So what do you guys think?

Dolomite

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300 AAC seems like a cool round. AMU guys have to used it to win Multigun Nationals in the AR platform. A suppressed bolt bolt gun would be sweet. But I guess the cost would go up with resizing 223 brass and using heavy 30 cal. bullets.

Edited by DaG
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Is there a reason that you body size at all? If it's a dedicated lot of brass in a bolt gun, I don't understand the need. Doesn't mean there's NOT a reason, I just don't know what it is.:)

I won't body size every single time but as they get stretched and hard to chamber I will bump the body back down to spec.

I also like to neck and body size before doing a trim. That way I get the most stretch on the case before trimming.

Dolomite

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I think it would be an interesting rifle. Savage is suppose to offer a rifle in 5.45X39 soon also. I'm very interested in looking at one of those.

Are you going to use the current offering from Savage in 7.62x39 as a base rifle to start or just re-barrel a Savage action?

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Bought a Braz-Tech single shot break open top (like a shotgun w/ an external hammer) at Predator Arms when they were on K pike. Haven't shot it but a few times . Shoot @ Norris along with a couple colleagues weather and time permitting .Get in touch with me or pm me ..bucnball

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I think it would be an interesting rifle. Savage is suppose to offer a rifle in 5.45X39 soon also. I'm very interested in looking at one of those.

Are you going to use the current offering from Savage in 7.62x39 as a base rifle to start or just re-barrel a Savage action?

Ground up build. I can build a 7.62x39 cheaper than I could probably buy one. They have gotten mighty proud of their stuff lately.

Another reason to build is they are probably going to use a barrel designed for the .311 bullets and I want .308.

Doesn't even need to be a Savage but it probably will be.

Dolomite

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Hot dangit Dolomite! You know I was planning on another AR build, why did you have to go and post about this. I've thought about it all day. Now I'm wanting one in the other cartridge you mentioned, the blackout. Answer me this if you can, where do you set about getting an action [savage]? Try to find a beater for reasonable and tear it down or what? Sigh, I'll never get ahead financially what for talking to people like you! :usa:

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I buy Stevens 200's. They are exactly like, actually better, than a Savage action and cheaper to boot. The reason why they are better is they don't go through the "fluff and buff" that most Savages go through. This is also why they are cheaper. They come straight out of the machine as machined. When us humans are doing the "fluff and buff" they make minor changes to the geometry of the receiver. Not enough for most people to notice but the Stevens are more uniform from gun to gun.

As far as buying them, you can find them at Gander for $319-$349. Most people are not going to sell their prized Savage for that regardless of condition. I have never seen a used Savage for under $300 with the exception of a pawn shop that had one for $235. Turned out to be a super rare model that I was stupid for passing on. Shylock's had one for sale for $350 and it had two barrels with it, 7.5x55 and a 30-06 barrel but that was over a year ago.

Once you have bought your Stevens you can generally sell the barrel for around $50-$75 depending on caliber. Academy used to carry them but no longer do.

Dolomite

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I would've thought a bolt action rifle chambered in 45ACP would be a waste, until I shot yours:) Had to scare of some dogs(coyotes) from my gorgeous ladie's place the other night. Her German Shepherd is in heat for the first time, and my next investment will be some amplified hearing muffs. Further down the road I'll be asking you guys for advice on an ear friendly bolt action. I've imagined a Yugo SKS with the gas cutoff/grenade launcher, but after reading this it looks like a bolt action would be more practical. Always enjoy reading Dolomite_Supafly's posts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the barrel coming. It is a air gauged 41V50 Milspec vanadium alloy barrel. Sounds expensive but for $35 ($51 shipped) I couldn't pass it up. It has a .300 land and .3085 bore diameter. Should work great with .308 bullets in my reloads but still allow me to shoot factory ammo.

I didn't use my normal "cheap" barrel blank so we will see how these work. I know the barrels I normally use are generally 1/2 MOA shooters.

I am going to have cut to 18"-20" for now. If I build a suppressor I will have it cut down to 16.5" and threaded. I might even thread it now and put a KX3 on the end to see how it works with subsonic ammo.

Biggest question I can't seem to find the answer to is whether there is a tighter than SAAMI spec chamber? I am wanting what might be considered a match chamber.

Dolomite

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  • 4 weeks later...

I pulled some Tula down today to reload and while I was at it I decided to check the powder charge and the bullet weights. As far as the powder goes they fluctuated between 25.1 and 25.6 grains. I did have one measure 23.0 grains but it was so far out of the norm I didn't count it as a good measurement. The bullets also fluctuated by a lot as well. They ranged from 121.6 grains to 123.5 grains in weight.

I also noticed that one of them had a bullet that literally fell out of the case. I was using an impact puller and almost ever case took 3 smacks to free the bullet. But one of them came loose on the first smack. I am sure this doesn help accuracy either.

And finally, every bullet measured .308" in diameter.

Hopefully I can get to the range in the next week or so. And more importantly I hope I can load these cases with known good powder and bullets.

My next step is to collect the powder and then reload the cases with factory powder but without the variations.

Dolomite

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So I torn down a bunch more Tula this morning to get the components.

I sorted the pulled bullets by weight and had them range from 121.0 all the way to 124.9. I was able to get 5 bullets that weighed the same out of the two boxes, 40 rounds, I pulled down.

Next I took those 5 bullets that weighed the sme and loaded them over 25.4 grains of factory powder. I weighed each and every powder charge to ensure they were exactly the same. And finally I seated those bullets to the same length. I did this to see if these components could be accurate, I suspect it will shoot better than factory ammo.

With the remainder of the brass I loaded 155 SMK's over 27.5 grains of H335 and 125 grain SP's over 31 grains of H335.

I also loaded some 155's over 8.0 grains of trailboss to see how they do. I am going to be working up subsonic loads for when I build the suppressor for this gun.

I hope to hit the range tomorrow to see how these work out.

Dolomite

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I went ot the range. Actually went twice. The first time I had a 20 MOA rail and couldn;t get it zeroed at 100 yards. So I had to go back home and install a 0 MOA rail. I had to use some "cheaper" rings to get the scope height low enough.

Back to the range. I started by zeroing the factory Tula ammo. They were hovering around 1.5"-2" but were pretty consistent. I was pretty happy about that.

Once zeroed I tried the tweaked factory ammo. First shot was great, second shot went into the first and the third shot went into the first two. The group was without a doubt 1/2" center to center up to this point. Shot 4 went 1" high and then shot 5 went another 1" high. At this point I got frustrated.

Next onto the quality loads in the Tula brass. The 125's with the H335 were around 1.5" and mostly vertical and the 155 SMK's were literally 4"-5" again vertical strings.

Disgusted I decided that I would just shoot the factory ammo. After a few shots I decided to turn the magnification down but the ring wouldn't move. This is when I realized the problem. The scope wasn't tight or at least not tight enough to keep it from moving forward into the magnification ring. Turns out those cheap rings or maybe it was me forgetting to tighten them was the culprit. The scope was moving forward shot after shot until the magnification ring wedged itself against the cheap rings. I believe this is why the accuracy was so miserable about 1/2 way through. It was well centered until the scope begain riding up on the rings.

I took the "tactical" rail off and went back to what has worked for me for years, a set of Leupold bases and rings. So hopefully in the next few weeks I will be trying it again and maybe with better results. As far as shooting it I like the gun, makes for a nice easy kicking gun. It is reliable as well.

Dolomite

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