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Got some basic reloading expendables today.


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I met a guy today at Sportsman's Warehouse today in Chattanooga on unrelated business and decided to go in. While I was there I picked up some Sierra bullets (.223), primers, .22 ammo, and a Sierra reloading manual. Hopefully going to get some powder when I get home and start learning to reload.

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Guest 6.8 AR

It doesn't matter. They're all good. I started out on a Lyman T-mag 2000 when I lived up in Erwin. I went

to Widener's one day and carried a carload of stuff back and started having fun. Made my share of mistakes,

too, but it is a good thing to learn how to do, and is addictive. I still use that Lyman. Sits on the bench next to

the Hornady LNL.

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If you are referring to 223 dies, I'm not sure a carbide set is available. I am sure they aren't necessary. Either way, you'll need to lube bottleneck cases when sizing.

Dillon is making them but as you stated you still have to lube for the 223.

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There are no traditional carbide dies (sizing) that I know of for bottle-neck cartridges.

There apparently are carbide expanding dies however as I just learned from the interwebz.

You can get carbide neck bushings for bushing type sizing dies, but you still have to lube

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You are gonna hear a million opinions, but try out an RCBS case lube kit. I have found that to be the easiest way for me. Knock on wood, I've never got a case stuck. I have a buddy, who shall remain nameless, that uses spray on lube. He also has a pile of 223 sizing dies because they grab his brass and won't turn loose.

BTW... I know Imperial is the "best". I just prefer to roll it on, 5 cases at a time.

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Guest Lester Weevils

I think most people do not lube pistol brass. On the pistol calibers I load, it is not hard on the arm muscles to run clean cases thru carbide dies on my little square deal b. On even more gooder more expensive presses, presumably with better leverage, maybe it is even less of a workout.

Have read comments from some people who do lube pistol brass, who claim that it is significantly easier/smoother to work the press lever on the lubed brass. But I figure as long as cases don't get stuck and it doesn't hurt the arm, then lube is an expendable step. I've never had a stuck pistol case, but maybe it will happen today, never can tell.

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For case lube, do you apply once before depriming and the wipe off after final crimp? Or does it need applied more or less, or at a different time?

I don't reload pistol (yet). I lube, then deprime and size with the sizing die, then tumble the lube off.

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Guest 6.8 AR

Yeh, I've never lubed a pistol brass. It's not necessary. The other stuff like split cases and bulges are the problems

to deal with. Just inspect and load. I think a 45 or 9mm case that gets a bit long has ended it's useful life range, also,

and should be tossed instead of trimmed. Some folks may continue, but I don't.

Usually I pick up so much brass on top of what I shoot that I don't have a problem when I cull it out.

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