Repairing scratches on Kimber Stainless model

[S&WForty]

Is it possible to polish out these scratches to some extent? If I could smooth them down, that would be better than what it looks like now. If anyone has any suggestions, it's appreciated!

Edit: moved images to Photobucket.

Edited October 16, 2012 by S&WForty

[Dolomite_supafly]

Hate to say it but those are likely permanent.

You could remove them but that area of the gun would look different than any other part of the gun. What you could do is have the entire gun media blasted to see if it will remove the scratches. But to remove the scratches totally you are going to need to be a bit aggressive and the finish will be a dull gray afterwards.

The bigger concern is what caused them. The nose on the slide release should have prevented scratches there. It is almost like someone used a tool to pry the slide stop from the gun. If that is the case it should have been pushed from the other side with a non marring object.

Dolomite

[DaveTN]

Removing that from stainless would be pretty quick, but that looks like it has a coating over the stainless. You would need to refinish the frame or send it back to Kimber.

Many people have had that problem…

http://www.google.co...iw=1536&bih=816

[Guest 6.8 AR]

Yeh, it looks like the finish will go with any kind of polishing. You might get lucky with filling in the scratches

with some kind of paint.

[QuietDan]

Removing that from stainless would be pretty quick, but that looks like it has a coating over the stainless. You would need to refinish the frame or send it back to Kimber.

Many people have had that problem…

http://www.google.co...iw=1536&bih=816

+1 on the "Back to Kimber" thought. If it has kind of a bead-blasted look to it, they might be able to do it again on the same gear that made the finish in the first place. I'd certainly phone first, following up with e-mailed pictures for them to consult with you.

[S&WForty]

I appreciate the replies. The first time I disassembled it, getting the slide stop out was difficult. IMO, the instructions were not the clearest on exactly where the slide had to be positioned for it to come out. I thought it was stiff, so I pried it some. I had stuck thin cardboard between there, but not until it was too late. Even when I got it lined up correctly, the first few disassemblies were difficult. Now it slides out a lot easier. I did try pushing from the other side. That's when I knew I didn't have the slide in the right spot. Live nad learn.

Surprisingly, I haven't put the true "idiot mark" on it during re-assembly. I snap that SS back in like I was John Browning. Go figure.

I guess there is always Photoshop for "Kimberly's" modeling career. LOL

After break-in (another 100 rds or so), I may consider sending it back to Kimber if the price to fix it is not too high. The only malfunction I've had is the occasional slide stop holding the slide when there is still ammo in the mag. It's done that about 4 times in about 400 rounds. (both with the Kimber mag and a Wilson combat). I googled that last night, so I know what is the likely cause.

[TGO David]

Before you send it back to Kimber, I'd consider just having the firearm coated with Robar's NP3 or NP3 Plus [link] and ask them about having their smiths fill in the scratches before they do the coating process. I had an XD-9mm that I had treated with NP3 and that was one bad-ass finish. You won't find a paint-on finish anywhere that does with NP3 does, or holds up like NP3 holds up, IMO.

[S&WForty]

Thanks, David. I clicked that link for a quick look. That seems go be a great coating. I will definitely consider that!

[timcalhoun]

I think that model is merely bead blasted stainless. So you just sand out the scratches and then bead blast again. It looks like a medium bead, but you might need to bead blast the entire gun so that it matches nicely.

[peejman]

I think that model is merely bead blasted stainless. So you just sand out the scratches and then bead blast again. It looks like a medium bead, but you might need to bead blast the entire gun so that it matches nicely.

This. Unless there's some sort of coating already on it, it's simple to sand/polish the scratches out then blast the whole thing to restore the appearance.

Plating/paint is typically less than 0.001" thick. A scratch that shallow is something you can see but can't feel. The scratches you've got are much deeper than that.

[S&WForty]

Thanks for the additional replies. It's good to known what I'm facing. There is just a bit of the right-most scratch that.is covered by the slide stop. That little spot can be my "inconspicuous" spot to test. If I can smooth the high spot and take away the shadow effect it creates, I may be content with that alone. Careful masking will be the key in that attempt.

[DaveTN]

If that’s just bead blasted stainless, polish it out and move on. But from those pics it doesn’t look like bead blasted stainless to me. KimPro maybe?

[S&WForty]

Their website just says Finish: Satin Silver. I bet you're right, and it is some kind of finish and not mere bead blasting.

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[BBill_TN]

If it is like my Stainless II it is actually their KimPro Finish, not merely a bead blasted finish.

[BBill_TN]

If it is like my Stainless II it is actually their KimPro Finish, not merely a bead blasted finish.

After looking at the pictures, it is indeed like mine and is the same KimPro finish. I would probably strongly consider TGO David's idea to refinish it if you decide that it has to be repaired.

[TGO David]

I had a Kimber once in the past that had the KimPro stainless satin finish. The frame itself may indeed be stainless steel but that is most certainly a top-coat. Rub it down with some acetone and you'll likely see the cloth come away silver. Actually don't do that... I'm just making a point.

Seriously, you will not be disappointed with Robar's NP3 finish. It may take them a few weeks to get your stuff back to you but it will be worth it in spades.

[MiddTennTaco]

Before you send it back to Kimber, I'd consider just having the firearm coated with Robar's NP3 or NP3 Plus [link] and ask them about having their smiths fill in the scratches before they do the coating process. I had an XD-9mm that I had treated with NP3 and that was one bad-ass finish. You won't find a paint-on finish anywhere that does with NP3 does, or holds up like NP3 holds up, IMO.

Wow, it looks amazing. About how much did it run to treat your XD9?

[TGO David]

Wow, it looks amazing. About how much did it run to treat your XD9?

I couldn't tell you. It's been at least 5 years since I did it and I have no idea what it cost and don't have my email from back then.

[S&WForty]

Bill, thank you for confirming it's the KimPro finish!

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