molonlabetn

Definetly been having cell issues on Verizon this past week. So have a couple other people I've talked to...

I like both 1911s and Glocks primarily... Sig is a close second. Beretta and the XD and the M&P come in third. I wanted to like H&K and Walther, but they feel wonky to me.

The 1903 is a great shooter... Worth far more in intrinsic value than anything else.

On this site, the question is indeed superfluous. The answer is yes, and Facebook sucks. Next.

I still have several PentagonLights I use most often (Surefire sued them and put them out of business for being too similar)... From the little Molle up to a 500 lumen weaponlight on my Benelli. A Surefire G2X is my go-to nightstand light, and I have a Streamlight nano on every keychain and in every bag. Insight M3X on the G21SF... A buddy of mine just bought a couple of those... Decent little light.

Yeah, fakebook is more likely to attract the kind of members you don't want. You're far more likely to integrate with sound individuals, on TGO.

I haven't examined a subcompact gen4 honestly... But any portion which is metal-metal wouldn't hurt to lightly lubricate

I would imagine that the only practical aspects of the 3% community are, morale (you're not alone), and establishing a means of communication, and relationships prior to, or in case of, SHTF (radio call signs, cell #'s, rally points, etc...) Many of us do that already, though.

I'd fight if need be... though I must add, by definition, none of us can yet genuinely claim the same title as the 3% fighting in the first revolution. Its simply an idea that gravitates those of like mind... I do agree with that idea, and would aspire to be part of whatever percentage who stands for liberty. To me it's no different than keeping the oath, flying the Gadsden flag, or showing up at a ranch to prevent another Ruby Ridge... So, yeah, I'm down with the III%.

I was going to say $500, unless its in really bad shape, or a very rare version.

I have no issue being ahead of the 3-9 line on a hot range, when shooting with people I trust. At a public range though, hell no... Then again, I've also watched a few folks I didn't feel safe even directly behind them while they were on the line. I'm not talking about doing cartwheels across the firing line, but proper communication and movement between aware and disciplined marksmen (and women) In a similar token, I would hope that any competent shooter would not hesitate to fire at a bad guy even if I was standing next to the targrt... Safety is often an illusion. Discipline is what prevents unintended results.

It will handle it. If you're going to shoot a steady diet of +p, however, I would recommend installing a slightly heavier recoil spring to reduce frame battering, or get a buffer insert. I'm talking about thousands of rounds of +p though, I don't know of any modern 9mm that can't handle some +p.

I generally don't lube any part of my glocks except for a drop on the connector where it engages the striker lug (smooths the trigger)... However, since Gen 4 has a metal guide rod, I would spread a drop or two on the recoil assembly. Any metal-to-metal contact benefits from some lubrication. That may not be your problem, just a suggestion... I always lube metal guide rods.

Supply and demand is a real thing... And in a market with little, or inconsistent, supply, a volume dealer may starve. There are formulas for managing such things fairly, and when all else fails it's no foreign proposition to sell or reserve product for the highest bidder. I don't agree with everything in that article, but I don't have to... Its his business to run. As far as ethics are concerned, however... If a buyer and seller agree on a price for a product, and the seller fulfills his end to deliver the product as advertised, there is nothing else to consider. Getting upset about gun or ammo pricing on a product that has become scarce or popular would be as childish and unreasonable as me being upset that I can't buy Google stock now at last decade's prices.

Short answer... 1-9 will work with 77gr if your barrel can push it fast enough, but 1-8 will work for sure at any velocity. I have a 20" 1-9 .223 bolt action that loves 75-77gr almost as much as 68-69gr.

Yes. If a 20" 1-9 twist barrel develops, say, 2800fps with a 77gr bullet, it will be spinning at roughly 224000rpm... To get the same rpm, with the same cartridge at the muzzle velocity produced by a 10" barrel, say 2200fps, you would need almost exactly a 1-7 twist. Another part of the equation though, is that at lower velocities, less rpm is needed to counteract aerodynamic forces... But the relationship is not linear.

I can agree to disagree about the semantics, direct or indirect... My only point to the OP was that barrel length matters if a bullet must accelerate enough to stabilize in a given twist, there's no way around it. There is plenty of data out there for velocity and barrel length correlation with any cartridge... So whether the chicken or the egg came first, it is undeniably possible to choose too short of a barrel in a given twist to get the required velocity for a bullet to stabilize. For a 77gr bullet, the magic velocity is around 2500fps at a 1-9 twist, which you won't get out of a barrel much shorter than 16" without going to a hot load like DoubleTap or MK262. Thank you for making me think about the problem, either way. :-)

Bullet structural integrity is a completely different issue altogether. But yes, every bullet has a performance envelope... With sectional density and mass at the lower end, determining how fast the bullet must spin to maintain stability, limited by structural integrity at the other end of the spectrum.

Using that calculator, anything below 2500fps using a 77gr SMK is in the realm of 'marginal stability' through a 1-9 twist, but will be stable down to 1250fps through a 1-8 twist. To put it in perspective, you'd be hard pressed to get much above 2500fps using a 77gr bullet with much less than a 16" barrel, but with a 1-8 or better twist you could ensure stability even at 7.5" barrel velocities. Meanwhile I'd like to hear about the 7.5" barrel that can push a 77gr SMK above 2500fps.

Here's a GREAT calculator. If you know your muzzle velocity and twist rate, you can predict stability. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/05/are-you-spinning-your-bullets-fast-enough/

Why does anyone use a barrel longer than 7.5 inches then? If you can get the same muzzle velocity as a 20" barrel provides, from a 7.5" barrel with the same twist, using the same load, then yes the stability would be identical. You and I both know that's not even close to realistic. Using the same load, the barrel that spins the bullet to a higher rpm will be more stable, whether you arrive there by increasing velocity or twist. The only way to increase the velocity of a fixed load is to increase barrel length.

I can swap between a CAR, H, H2 & H3 and feel the difference, even though the recoil impulse is the same for a given cartridge and gas setting... Adding weight decreases bolt rearward acceleration and forward acceleration; and adding more spring tension increases bolt rearward deceleration and forward acceleration. So, a light buffer and weak spring will pick up rearward speed quickly, and not be slowed down much before bottoming out, then rebound at a moderate pace back to battery. A heavy buffer and weak spring will pick up rearward speed slowly, but not be slowed much before bottoming out, then rebound slowly back to battery. A heavy buffer and heavy spring will pick up rearward speed slowly, and be slowed significantly before rebounding to battery at a moderate pace. A light buffer and heavy spring will pick up rearward speed quickly, but slowed down significantly before rebounding to battery very quickly.

Just from F=ma perspective, at a given input force (gas pressure) the difference in bolt/buffer mass would have to change by a far more significant percentage than going from a car to h2 buffer, to change unlock time significantly, since acceleration to velocity is a root... (ie, a 1oz change in buffer or spring weight is barely 10% of the total inertia, which would be barely a 3% change in bolt speed... I apologize for not showing my work...) ARs run best with the lightest buffer that will pick up a cartridge, once enough gas is introduced to accelerate the carrier enough to fully compress the buffer spring.

You just made two contradictory statements... For a given cartridge, velocity and barrel length are directly related.

Heavy or light, a carrier will start moving at the same time for a given gas tube length... The difference is how quickly the carrier accelerates. There is some small difference in the time it takes to rotate the bolt, because of that, but not an appreciable difference.