molonlabetn

My willingness to shoot someone is inversely proportional to mine and my loved ones' immediate safety.

That's exactly what I did :-)

It will never be too bright. The translucent block doesn't collect much light... No more than a fiber optic front sight anyways. In low light, unless you have transitioned from an area with more light and your eye maintained tracking on the reticle, it is unlikely you will pick it up again faster than you could effectively point-shoot, at room distances.

Regardless the reasoning, at shotgun velocities and load mass, relying on a slight difference in pellet size to not do unintended harm through a wall simply compromises stopping power on the intended target. I'd prefer to know my backstop and what is beyond it, and ensure a positive stop.

I'd still rather go with a Burris Fast-Fire or Trijicon RMR...

Took me a bit to get the picture to show up.

By way of an update... I got to inspecting the sight and realized that the reason why the reticle disappears when a light source is downrange, especially in low light, is because the front portion of the translucent light block is covered with black plastic... So I pulled my pocketknife out and cut off the top few mm of the black plastic liner, voila full light transmission regardless the source, even in low light... They should come this way from the factory.

Sort of... The problem is, if I'm in the dark with open sights, even without night sights, I can catch the silhouette of the posts when backlit by a small amount of ambient light, or if I turn on my weapon light... With the Seeall, the reticle disappears anytime the light in front of the gun is greater than ambient, which occurs anytime a weapon light is used or the target is backlit.

My 590A1 liked 8 pellet 00 Buck best, as well... patterned great.

I signed my guns up for Obamacare... Will that help?

I'll be at Terry Walden's Saturday.

Why would I want to potentially jam something behind my trigger and make the gun inoperable? This sounds like a problem in search of a problem to me.

I'll second the Burris Fast Fire... Or a Trijicon RMR.

Oh, that was an incorrect assumption on my part... Outdoor shooting would be great with this sight, only thing is for skeet, etc, sighting instead of point shooting may actually slow you down... Plus it will sit higher than you can see with a proper cheek weld. My guess is this was meant for pistols, the relief through the lens has a sweet spot at arms length.

I've had great experiences with Mossberg and Springfield Armory... The former a number of times as I shot my 590A1 apart over the years, and the latter as I shot a 5" 9mm XD apart over the years... Benelli, Remington and Beretta weren't nearly so pleasant.

Your hand towel sir, would you like a spritz of cologne?

Always take the G19... But have been known to stow the AR in the kayak on overnight trips.

^ What Dan said. Just as a further illustration... If you were going hunting for a 150-250lb predator, wouldn't you want the gnarliest load you could muster? For me that's 3" 000 Buck... And at room distances, that won't penetrate appreciably more through building materials than an ounce of compressed fairy dust at the same velocity, but it will put bigger holes in a badguy. If you want reduced penetration in walls, go with .223 Even bird shot goes through multiple walls.

Based on my experience just now, dry clearing my house with no lights on, this sight would be a terrible choice on a home-defense weapon... IMHO.

One more thing... In low light it barely shows up (which is understandable since it has no illumination) but when I was in the darkish room and activated my weaponlight on the shotgun, I couldn't see the reticle at all. So, terrible 'tactical' optic... This is 100% an outdoor target shooting sight, in my opinion.

Well, I just unboxed mine... First impression is that it's very light and simple. An machined aluminum block with various plastic bits in the channel, and two set screws to lock onto a rail. I can hold it up and see the reticle easily in good light, it is fuzzy if you focus on it, but becomes clearer when focusing on a distant target over it. Outside, it shows up very well, and inside with average lighting it shows up decent. In a darkened room, I can still make out the reticle as long as any ambient light is behind me. The reticle disappears when pointed near a light source. I mounted it on my Benelli M4 and found that it was a bit too high for good pointing, and was unnatural to use overall. I mounted it on my AR15 and it is much too low (a riser would fix this). I will reserve further judgment until I shoot with it, I just want to do one more thing first... Drop it on the floor and see what happens... It survived a 4ft drop onto hardwood, nothing came off and nothing appears loose or nonfunctional. I'm going to do it again... 6ft drop this time, still intact. So far my only concern is the way it mounts... Just a fixed rail channel and set-screws (which do mar the rail a bit). I'll let you know how it shoots, and try to get some pictures or a video this weekend.

Tracking info says mine was just delivered... Looks like I'll be hitting the range Saturday.

My vote goes to a 590A1... Had one of those for years, even ran it in 3-gun heavy metal. Great shooter, fast to reload due to no loading gate in the way. I currently use a Benelli M4 for HD, loaded with 3" 000 Remington Buckshot. I preferred 2-3/4" 00 Remington 8 pellet Buckshot in the 590 (it patterned better).

I just clamped one of these on and stuck a Surefire in it. I like it better than any purpose-built forend I've ever owned or used. CDM MOD-C - Shotgun Flashlight Mount by CDM http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H58JIE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_JLXvtb0S253X5