TnShooter83

THANKS..... DL'D

CPL, or RemOil..... No problems yet. They all ran fine every time so far.

You sure it is the first time? Because if it is, that is NICE..... Good job there man.....

I used to use CPL on all my stuff. But I recently loaned my brother my Sigma. (He sold his to pay medical bills for his new baby boy) He is not allowed to carry in his work, and left it in his truck at work. When I got it back the CPL was all gummy like? Looked like coffee stains on the barrel lug and hood. Weird....?

I sure did, and it was a mistake (my mistake). I need to do better at proof reading my post, huh? I'll promptly correct the mistake. Thanks for catching it. The 9mm is BENT. The .40 is Straight.

If it ejects fine, you are set. Some people complain of casing hitting them in the face with a 9mm ejector on the .40 and others (like yourself) don't have this problem. Happy shooting....

And just to be sure, Above the trigger are there 2 pis, or is there just 1 pin? Some times people get the pin deal confused. There is 1 pin also on the back strap. (Top portion) This pin is included in the pin count. So if you have 2 pins above the trigger, it would be a 3 pin model. And is GOOD to GO with a caliber conversion.

Here a couple of pics for comparison. They are not my pics, full credit to Butch over on GlockTalk. Is your Ejector straight, or bent? 9mm will be BENT .40 will STRAIGHT Glock 9mm Ejector Glock .40/.357 Ejector. (Old and New Style)

I'll be sure to stay out of the public access woods/areas on that day. But thanks for letting me know, as I don't yet have a hunting license.

Sad, the whole thing. I used to be good friends with the guy that was killed, until I lost touch with him when I moved away and went to a different high school. I'm more shocked that it's not a hate crime. I honestly don't believe in "hate crime". I think you pretty much have to hate a person just to kill them for no reason. So the whole "Hate Crime" charge is bogus IMO. Unless you are insane ect... But since it gets used (and has been), why not here? Not meaning this to sound racial at all. If it were my race (white) that committed this cruel crime, I'd say the same thing about them. But I'm pretty inclined to believe there was some hatred going on to do what was done to this poor couple. Again, not making it a racial issue. So PLEASE take no offence. Hate is Hate, Right?

So, if the frame is a G26 (9mm) is does it have a 9mm ejector, or is the correct .40 S&W/357 Sig. ejector installed? I honestly don't know for SURE. But unless it is a Current 3rd Gen Glock, I was under the understanding GLOCK (the company) advises against 40/357 Slide barrel swap. Again, if it is the current 3rd Gen. models (3 pin) it should be fine. The same applies to 2nd Gen or (2 pin) model .40 S&W models. They do not recommend a .357 Sig. conversion due to the higher pressures it produces. Again, This is what I recall about reading in an article some where. I do know GLOCK is happy to help if they can, so if you really want to know for sure. I'd just give them a call. I know a long post, that really doesn't help you any. Sorry.

Yes, I guess I should have worded it different. I would not mind if the sell was the one to field strip it. On a positive note. I did find me another Glock. And the seller had NO problems allowing it to be field stripped. Thanks all.

I've owned both, Currently own the PT-111 Pro. The current PT-111 Pro pistols (Gen 3) have a much better trigger than the earlier ones. That is the ONLY positive thing is has over the Hi-Power , IMO. Well, (except mine is Stainless, but that does really count) If it were in good shape I'd trade. The Hi-Power will lasting longer, and be more enjoyable to shoot. And like said, if it does break, at least you can get parts. Not to mention all the nice after market add-on available for them. I say, GO FOR IT.....

Here in Powell (Knox County). The WalMart on Clinton Hwy has a 1 box per Caliber limit. Sucks, but at least I got some. ammo....After waiting all most 2 months.

A big reason no one hunts is LAWYERS. I have many family members that own farms. They don't allow people to hunt it on fear they will be sued for some thing going wrong. Here is a TRUE story. My Uncle in Va. was sued for having to large of a fence post. It was claimed that no cattle could break or jump a fence post that large. Apparently a car couldn't break it also.... Guy crashed in to the fence post, and try to sue for the price of car, and expenses. It got thrown out of court, but it cost money to show up, hire a lawyer, and contest it. Honestly, I can't blame them. And going to a WMA is like taking a gamble on your life. If it moves, it's fair game in those places.....Scares the crap out of me. Some of those people have no business with a firearm.

Sounds right. Any time I buy new, I get screwed.....Kidding...Kidding. I feel your pain. I've over paid a few times not knowing any better. I try to do research on going prices now. Personaly, I'd be getting a pistol, or my money...VERY SOON.

Yes, it also serves as an extractor. But it was an "upgrade" so early model don't have them. Unless they were upgraded. Not that it matters much if you keep your finger off the trigger. All mine are loaded, even if I just checked to make sure it was NOT loaded. Yeah, I'm a bit muzzle shy as you can tell.

I've manage to gather up almost enough to buy a used SR9, or Taurus 24/7. I've got a few question. Does any one think it would be rude to ask, "May I/you field strip the pistol to check for any "hidden" damages? I'd tell them upfront, "I'll take it if all looks good inside" What about at least a "Function Test?" Also, I often have NUMEROUS people walk up and ask to look at my firearms. I don't mind at all if they are interested. But the last time there an idiot dropped one of my Smith & Wesson models 36's. Would it be rude to say, "Yes sir, but I'm asking ????, Now if you are still interest in it for that price, you are more than welcome to handle/look at my stuff" I bet I have 25+ people walk up and ask to see something. Fiddle with all the stuff, rub on it, slide/rack. Open and slam the cylinders, ect...Only not to want it after they hear the asking price. So I thinking, I should just get that out of the way before anything else. I figure this might help keep things from being handled for no good reason Guess, I'm just a bit shy. I might sound a bit like arrogant asking, But I work hard for what little money I make.....

Good works. As longs as it runs fine, and serves it purpose.

Thanks.... I hope never to have to use this tip. But it is a good thing to know.

Be sure the firearm is unloaded for ALL the following procedures This should help with revolvers. Revolver Checkout Procedure Be sure the firearm is unloaded for ALL the following procedures With Autos I'll give you my not so scientific inspection. Check feed ramp for any premature groove lines. This COULD indicate round count. Check outside barrel for slide rings. This is the ring that is usually caused by the slide rubbing the barrel. More prevalent on Browning Tilting barrel designs. Be sure the firearm is unloaded for ALL the following procedures (make sure it is unload/safe direction) Hold pistol straight up in the air, Muzzle up. Pull Trigger. Pull slide fully back, and EASE slide forward. Just before the slide / barrel lock up, let the slide go. It should go into battery on its own. No need for help/bump it forward to close. Do this with the Mag out. Put the mag in and rack. Does it stay back if it has a slide lock? Check ALL mags to see if the slide catches. Again this in only for pistols with a slide catch. Ask if they Mags are the ones that came with the pistol. If so, check the followers for wear. If there is a lot of wear then the pistol most likely has a good few rounds through it. Check the slide rails for wear. That is if you are allow permission to field strip the pistol. Check the slide grooves for wear. Then do a basic function check. Do a quick search for "Function Test" on Google. There all all kind, but bssically all the same with a few minor changes for different models.

No had personal experience. But have heard of it happening after the pin has been removed a few times for cleaning ect. Here is a post on the same problem. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=clnk&cd=2&url=http%3A%2F%2F74.125.47.132%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dcache%3Ape7kKJrNBMcJ%3Aglocktalk.com%2Fforums%2Farchive%2Findex.php%2Ft-1012936.html%2Bglock%2Blocking%2Bblock%2Bpin%2Bloose%2Bbend%26cd%3D2%26hl%3Den%26ct%3Dclnk%26gl%3Dus&ei=edqASrbaAaqmtgf2rcXNCg&usg=AFQjCNGT55A1m_UYefMqKNq7lSCLaFxvGg&sig2=cYr28m4etkt_cQTCEF_ntw I'd personally call Glock first. They are more then willing to help. GLOCK, Inc. 6000 Highlands Parkway Smyrna, GA 30082 U.S.A. Tel.: +1 770 - 432 1202 Fax: +1 770 - 433 8719

I feel sorry for the guy that has his face smashed against her ass.....

Updated Stats Extremely well. We are undoubtedly moving in the right direction. 12% Fairly well. There's still a long way to go. 8% Not well at all. His plans are hurting more than helping. 78% Not sure/No opinion. 2% 1152594 votes

2005 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner 2.9L 4cyc 2x4 I get 24mpg if it is 10% ethanol mix. And 27+mpg if it is 100% Gasoline. Mostly Highway. City is around 21 MPG