TnShooter83

This, but I also shot mine. I added pierce +1 finger extensions to my G33. I didn't even do that....The place I bought them from did it for free.

Just think of how many people have played with and since it's Wal-Mart ABUSED the rifle before you buy it. I bought a Savage .243 from Wal-Mart years ago. I HAD to take the one on display. I was told that is their policy? My rifle was fine...But just imagine the people (Wal-Mart People) that have screwed with it before you buy it.

If the .22 shoots anything like my 17HMR did, you'll love it. I don't think you can wrong with a Savage, especially for the price.

What are you shooting at, and how far are you carrying the rifle before you shoot? Either I'm a wimp or some of you never had to carry your Heavy Barrels on a long hike while hunting. I now use a John Deer Gator or a different rifle. But most likely I'm a wimp. Is it more accurate? Most of the time, yes. But are you accurate enough all the time to know the difference? For Me, unless I'm resting the rifle on something. I can't tell the difference. I can say the barrel does not heat up as fast. But I rarely shoot fast enough to heat up the barrel. Ammo is expensive and I don't reload. I make 1 box or shells last a LONG time. If I want to shoot fast I'll use my 22lr. I have an AR and still can't seem to make my self pull the trigger fast. Imagine an AR with only 40 rounds through it.....40 SLOW rounds.

I just built my first one a couple months ago. The trigger guard pin (rolled pin) refused to go in. DO NOT BEAT IT IN. Those "tabs" are pretty thin and all it would take is a miss of a hammer swing to snap one off. (Think they could have designed this a little better, but what do I know?) I took a pair of pliers and smashed one end closed a little bit. Then I used vise grips to PRESS the pin in. Worked great. So I did the same thing with the bolt catch pin. Remember to wrap the jaws of the pliers in electric tap so you don't scratch anything. Also use tape on the side of the receiver when doing the bolt catch pin. Other than that, all you have to watch out for are the little take down pin springs and the safety spring. Be warned that safety spring can and WILL fly across the room without warning. Don't move the back plate once it is flush against the receiver, hurry up and screw the castle nut down.(AKA: Big nut found on the sliding stock) I'm assuming you are using a Carbine stock, right? It's really not that bad. It took me maybe 2 hours. But in reality, if you know what you are doing you could do it in 30-45 mins...or less If you have any questions feel free to PM me. If you get stuck I'll be glade to help you. Here are some links to help: Build Guide: http://www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/ Good video: Best tip in that video is at 4:47 It is the razor blade tip....watch it you'll understand. Also you'll see another reason beating pins in can be bad. Scratched Receivers....

Apparently it not the policy here. And I seen a guy carry put a $700 Dewalt tool kit from Lowes once. The clerk shrugged and said, "well we can't do anything once he steps out the door". Not sure what the deal is, but I'm guessing a good lawyer has made that the Normal Policy now?

Yes the purse was in the cart, setting right beside the kid. I guess carrying it would be a better option.

Totally off topic, but what is "1.0622007940994E+14" that is next to your location? It's right before "Nashville, Tn... As for your question, I have no idea what you're even talking about. So I can't help you on that.....

My Sister -in-Law had her purse stolen in the Halls, Tn Wal-Mart tonight. Luckily she chased the woman down an took here purse back. It was the third time today the woman has done this, but thanks to Wal-Mart and their cheesy security they will not purse anyone out the doors. So all you have to do is GRAB and RUN and once out the door you're free. Basically it happened like this.... Woman sees Sister-in-Law with child in shopping cart. Woman grabs purse and runs, thinking the a woman with a child will be to slow to chase her pushing the cart with the kid in it. And of course you can't just leave your kid alone in the cart while you chase. So if some one steals something from you in Wal-Mart All I know to do is beat the piss out of them so they can't leave? Maybe then they can do something about it. All be warned - This woman is still on the loose and most likely will attempt this again. Keep a close watch on your stuff.

Anything on TruTV most likely isn't True..... Discovery and History Channel are just about as bad. Honestly most everything on TV is "deceiving".

I'd go with the .223 since the AK/SKS is cheaper and in some ways better. I find the Mini 14/30 a bit heavy. I have shot both. As far as accuracy goes the 30 is a little better than the standard AK but not by much. As for the .223 I find it less accurate than than any of my AR. Price wise the the 30 is a little cheap (Wolf, Brown Bear, Silver Bear or Surplus) Distance wise I like the .223 it shoots flatter (longer Distance) and is almost all ways more accurate. Something you might not have thought of is resell value? Most people will go with an SKS or AK when it comes to 7.62. And most people will go AR platform when buying a 223/5.56 Reselling it if you don't like it might be a little hard(er).

I do, Mine is a model: BFH Nothing like the sound of the BFH. Funny how problems seem to disappear with the sound of a BFH. Kidding you. I can't play any type musical instrument.

I find that the .357Sig is MUCH more accurate for me than .40 I sold my G22 after trying to get decent groups. I tried 750+ rounds and never got as good a group as I did with my first mag full of .357Sig. (I've owned 2 G22's, never did any good with either one) Yes, I know I'm currently selling 2 of my Glocks in .357Sig. But I have entirely too much money in my G23 to sell it. The plan is to buy a Sig barrel for it. I prefer my G19 and G33 to any other of my handguns.

I have a Del-Ton Mid-Length 16" Heavy Barrel Chrome Lined 1/7 Twist Only have 40 test rounds through it, so I can't say about the accuracy. I haven't had any problems, I wish the phosphate coating was a little thicker. Not that I've had any problem, but my Bushmaster and Colt had a thicker coatings.

Red's Gun Repair in Rockwood. He was a gunsmith at Gander Mountain. Has worked from home for 25+ years. Used to work at Gander Mount. He is no longer at Gander Mount, so he is back at home.

Update: I shot it last night. Bottom barrel is a no go, the top worked. I managed to get the bottom to fire once. Shot 7 rounds through it and now it doesn't work at all. You can polish a turd all you want, but in the end it's still a turd. It's officially labeled : JUNK (or turd) I shot it at my Grandfather house (only place close to shot) He saw my throw it in the trash. Now he has it. But I warned him....hahaa When it did work, it had a "fareball" come out the end according to my grandfather...

You are correct, they go until they hit something. (shell/ or chamber rim). There are no blocks that I can see. the firing pins are one piece. No return springs, ect. They free float in the gun, you can point it down and the pins are in the fired position. One thing I did notice is that if a person were to close the barrel with the hammer down, the firing pin(s) will contact the rim. You can actually see the hammer move ever so slightly. You should have it in the half cocked position when reloading. Yeah it might say that in the manual. But I don't have a manual. I'm not a Derringer person, so my knowledge on their working is little.

Yeah, I know not to dry fire a rimfire unless the manufacturer says it's ok. But thanks for the info anyways. One of the main reason I like Ruger as they thought this out. Back when I built my custom Ruger 10/22 (Sold now) I bet I had 100's of dry fires on it. To learn a trigger you have to pull it....Many times.

Can't go wrong with a Ruger. Compact, Bolt action, and has steel sights. Ruger® Gunsite Scout Rifle Models

I have never needed to use one. I have never seen anyone else need to use one. The chances you'll need it are slim. And in all seriousness, if you do need to use it, you should probably figure out why the round didn't didn't chamber in the first place. Really, do you want to beat a round in the chamber? Just remember, you may have to beat it back out. As for the dust cover, it's up to you and how you use the rifle. Are you going to be in dust, dirt, sand ect?

Personal Defense Options and Bill's Out Post. You can actually hold a conversation with these guys.

Yeah, they told me that the warranty stays with the gun. Not the owner. And they did send me the parts for free. Great customer service. I think that if they put as much effort in to the gun(s) as they do customer service, they might have something.

What is unreasonable use? Another term for "At our discretion"? And H3LL yeah, it's unreasonable to use something that doesn't work? As far as the pics go... The finish looks bad, but in my opinion it's a bad finish. It looks like paint (from a spray can). The outside still looks new how ever. Honestly, I have no intentions on sending it in to be fixed. The next time it needs fixed, I'll fix it to the bottom of a trash can. Or give it to someone else who likes "fixing" things. I could NOT sell it or trade. I'd have to give it away, or throw it away? I'm not complaining. I got what I paid for..... Nothing. I haven't tried it out yet, but will this weekend. I feel sure it will fire, but for how long? Who know? Maybe for ever. (doubtful) All I'm saying is if you have one. You might look to see if yours is having this same issue. And if it is, I'd fix it before you need it.

Yeah it was free, the owner of a local pawn shop tossed it in with a rifle. He said he had sold it, but the the customer came back in saying it wouldn't fire. He refunded the money, and gave it to me. I wouldn't buy one, but free is all ways good, Right? Now, the problem was that someone had taken the firing pins out of it. I figured they took it a part to clean and couldn't get them back in. But once I started looking the previous owner might have had a good reason to "take it apart". It looks like the firing pins are off alignment and striking the barrel/breech face each time it's fired. So after repeated firing the firing pin would peen causing firing issues. I ordered 2 firing pins. ( took Cobra 2 times to get the order right) I haven't had the chance to shoot it to see if it functions, but I can see that the firing pins are still going to hit the breech face to some degree. Notice Dent in bottom barrel at 5'Oclock Different view Top barrel is starting to dent at 2'Oclock Take it for what you want. But I'm not buying a Cobra firearm any time soon. But I take a free one....LMAO

Your choice is a good one as for as it being a Ruger. All kinds of after market stuff for it. Even better if you reload. The only down side to it is that is 44Mag. More expensive than 357/38Spl. In my experience (357mag) I found myself shooting .38Spl more. I say after a while 44Mag would be hard on the hand. Not so much with 44Spl. I typically shoot 300+ rounds when I get the chance to shoot. So 38Spl was cheaper. Good luck. Another route would be the 45LC as Rugers can take the the +p loads. I love Ruger Revolvers, they build them strong (but heavy).