TnShooter83

Yeah, no matter what you say on this topic some one is bound to get offended. I'll wait until the official release of race statistics come out. Even if it's true, I doubt we'll know. I don't think they want to start a race war.

I went by there Saturday. Great guys. Very friendly, treated me as if they had known me my whole life. Couldn't ask for more.

Ok, I've never owned a Sig but I did a little research. And the 226 is very similar to the 228. The 228 is just a smaller version of the 226. I have a program that shows you how to take it dissaseble and reassemble it. The program is free but it only has the P228. But should work for the 226. Here is a link: http://noble-empire.com/proj_gd2.php?page=downloads It has the G19, 1911, and the Sig P228. You can get others but they want you to pay for them. Hope it helps. PS: This is the link for the the PC version https://s3.amazonaws.com/disasm/gun_disassembly_setup.exe

DPMS makes 11.5" upper with a 5.5" Flash Hider pinned all on an A2 upper (carry handle) I'd go DPMS, at least you know what you're getting. DPMS: AR-15 Rifles, Parts and Accessories. As for upgrades the standard BCG will work fine. But it could be better, all depends on how you use it. Maintenance will be better with a Chrome lined Carrier. The DPMS might be chrome lined Carriers now, but it doesn't say. It just says it is heat treated and coated per Mil-Spec. If it were chrome lined I'm sure they would say. That's a good selling point (not that you NEED it) I've heard they are not, but I can't say for sure. Never owned one.

Not a bad idea to have an emergency plan for any disaster. The fact that NASA participated makes people afraid something is going to happen that NASA/Government is not tell the public. The reality is that FEMA has been preaching this heavily since Hurricane Katrina hit the the Gulf Coast. The project NASA was/is involved with was an NLE (National Level Exercise) It's conducted annually by the NEP (National Exercise Program). I'll leave it at that, those who want to know more know where to start. Research the above..... Too many people are looking too hard to find a hidden message in this video. There is no hidden message, it's just telling you what you may want to do to make life easier when something happens. It's nothing new, people used to do it years ago. But modern technology has made it to easy for us to be lazy and expect some one else to fix the problems.

All tough I try not to give advice on thing I've not used or tested. I'd stay a way from internal lasers (especially if it is used for primary carry) I've read reports of them (even Laser Max) coming apart or loosing contact during heavy use. And inevitably the batteries will be dead when you really need it. Google: "laser+Max+Glock+problem" Type it or copy it just as I have it with the "+" signs. My advice would be to buy a good night sight (even if it is just the front sight) If you use the sight right, it will sever you just as well as the Laser. Oh, and nice pick on the G19. Good you went with the Gen3 for now. Hope you get to shoot it soon.

I think I couldn't afford the ammo to "use" it. I think it cost way more than it should, for what it is. And this is the type of stuff the Anti-Gun people love. I'll pass.

Love mine. If you do disassemble the receiver. Be sure NOT to over tighten the guide rail screws. If you over tighten them it can cause the bolt guide rods to bend very slightly. If one bend it can cause all sorts of problems. When re-installing the screw just screw them in until they stop. No need to get them tight, the stock will not let them fall out. Good shooting, Mines been a champ for me.

I have to agree with you there. I not seen a wore out Glock yet. I'm sure some where out there is one, but if you can afford the ammo to "wear it out" I doubt you'll worry about buying a new Glock.

Looks like you're going to have a nice setup. I'm currently building my first AR. Though I've owned a few. I went the easier way. And bought a complete upper that has been test fired. Since I'm building, my purpose was to go low cost but with decent parts. I went 4140 Barrel chromed lined and the gas system was Mid-Length. 1:9 twist because I intend on shooting 62gr or lower ammo (surplus ect) Chrome interior BCG, MPI and heat treated bolt. Built on a forged receiver. Now the hard part is waiting for all the stuff to get here. Eventually if this build works out, I may invest in the stuff need to build an upper. But I'm not sure I need to, as I'd most likely go a whole new caliber. I mean everyone has a 5.56 AR. Who has a .204, .243, ect?

Nice job, but I'm one of the very few that like the finger grooves. So I'd opt to save those. Again, nice job.

I had one. Bought it form a pawn shop. They stated it was security company trade in gun????? It was plenty accurate and never failed. Mine was a bit heavy and big. (it was a 4" barrel") The trigger was nasty unless you shot it single action. But was good enough for my brother to qualify for his Concealed Carry Permit. I recommend the Model 85, it can be found in stainless and is not as heavy and it to will shoot +P ammo. Good luck on the purchase.

Actually I look at the serial number on most of the guns I buy. Since "most" stuff I buy is used, I've learned to do research first. Many gun companies have issued recalls or updates. Ex. Glock, Ruger LCR, SR9 Blackhawk, and Ke-Tec to name just a few. If I know the serial number I know to ask if the firearm was upgraded or sent it. Because honestly, who wants to buy a gun just to have to turn around and send it in? If it's a real big deal, don't give him the last 2 digits on the number.

I'd contact them. I have a Mini Pika-II and so far I've had no trouble. But to be honest I only carried it last fall. I once owned another Benchmade not sure what model. The clip was very loose on it. I called them and they sent me another one, no questions.

Ok, I gotta ask. But all the affordable 5.45 ammo I've found is corrosive. And the AR being a "DI" gas system. I'm not sure I'm willing to clean it that good every time I shoot it. Are S&W Bolt Carriers Group internals chromed? Maybe I would if it were a piston system. But by that time, I'm at AK prices. Take no offence, I'm not downing your system. I guess, I admitting the being to lazy to have to do a full strip down after every shooting. Unless I pay more (about the same price as 5.56) for noncorrosive ammo.

Almost....But the follower is different. Not by much, but for some reason Glock decided to run a different one. Back some years ago (like 5) I called GLOCK the company and asked if I gould use a .31 barrel in my G22. The answer was: "Yes if your G22 has 3 pins. If is has 2, they advise not to. And if you experiance any problem to change followers, but typically you do NOT have to." As for 9mm barrel in a 40, It has been done. There was a post on this about a year ago on another forum. One guy 100's or even 1000's through his OEM 9mm barrel in his Glock 40 cal. He never had problems. But, as I recall it was/did cause wear to something. I've searched for the post but had no luck finding it. I believe the wear was to the barrel lugs, or slide. The whole post revolved around proving you CAN run OEM Glock 9mm barrel in a Glock 40 slide. Just be able to live with the fact that it does cause abnormal wear. So far I have NOT seen or heard how much wear it takes to render the pistol defective and nonfunctional.

Now here's one for you. The steel makes no difference unless the maker heat treats it right. Being a pocket knife I would go Stainless. In my case I work out doors and sweat a lot so stainless keeps the rust away....longer. Yeah, longer. Stainless can and will rust. Unless it's a Nitrogen steel like x15 T.N. or H2. And studies show they are not that much better than 440c and need to be work hardened. Or you could go Carbon steel with a coating. Good old 1095 works great. My advise is lowest to highest: AUS8, 440c , VG-10, 154c, or S30V Any higher up you go takes more practice and time to sharpen. Again, this is my opinion and experience.

Yes, I know what you are talking about. In fact many have said the texture has worn spots on their clothing ect. If you plan to ever sell the pistol, I'd go with a slip on type grip. As sanding will more than likely devalue the pistol. Other wise, I'd use a maybe 600 grit sand paper and go at it slow.

Sell anything you want as long as it's legal. I'll advise you to carry a few extra zip ties, as they place them in the action of the gun to make it safe. It's inevitable some one will ask to see your firearm and rack the slide or close the bolt ect. And there goes the zip tie. Also no LOOSE ammo. I got an Arse chewing from a cop there once. He assumed I never had my pistol checked in. But not so, the previous "looker" snapped it off by dropping the slide. Sucks to have to wait in the check-in line 2 or 3 times. Also, it helps to state the price at the start of a conversation / look. This cuts down on the amount of time wasted while they look at it, play with it, ect.... If you REALLY intend on buying it, then by all means - try it out. But don't wear it out during the process. Good luck

Buck Bantam, Less than $20 and if you happen yo loss it at the range you won't have to look high and low for it. Just by a new one. Mine stays sharp and is rock solid. Yeah, it's 420HC steel. But Buck has ALL WAYS done R&D on their 420HC knives. The spent many months on the CATRA machines to get the best blade design and steel performance for the best price. And after all that it is Made in the U.S.A, and has a LIFETIME Warranty.

I used to carry serrated, but now ONLY plain. I've been able to cut all the same things with the plain. Plain for me.

I shy away from an gun chambered in 7.62x39 that does not have a chrome lined barrel. The reason is that most of the cheap surplus military "Cheap stuff" has corrosive primers. Even some foreign made ammo that is marked "Non-Corrosive" is in deed corrosive. The Chinese Blue boxed ammo comes to mind...plus a few others. I just like to have the little extra protection and peace of mind knowing my barrel is chrome lined and a lot more resistant to corrosion that a non-coated barrel. The best kept secrets in AK's right now are the Saiga rifles.

It could be a number of things. Worn mag spring. (Do you keep the mags loaded at all times?) Though possible, I just don't see all the springs going bad all at once, unless you are keeping them ALL loaded to full capacity even when not in use. Worn recoil spring, the spring my not be causing the slide to slide forward with enough momentum to chamber the next round. Do you have any thing attached to the bottom rail like a light? Alot of Glock just will not function with attached devices. The only cure is to find one of MANY Glock followers, and find one that does/might work. The .357sig follower has now been changed twice since it was introduced. The OAL (Over All Length) of the round might be to long. This has been the case in a few failures to feed in .357 Glocks. Your extractor could have chipped, and now has a burr on it causing the round not to chamber correctly. Or the extractor it just plain dirty. I hope you get it fixed soon. Good luck.

I passed a GREAT deal on a Beretta 92FS last Monday. It was an "M9 Marine Edition" for $400.00 I all most bought it, but some thing didn't feel right. Later that night at 9pm my brother called me and said his hours were cut to 24 total hours per week. He has 2 children, one is 2 and the other is 5 months. The moral to this post is: That $400.00 did a whole lot more good than the pistol ever could have done. If you still have money in your pocket, then you didn't do too bad.

With MINOR holster wear it is worth around $425-$450.00 if it has 2 Hi-cap mag and box. With NO holster wear and "slightly" used with box and 2 Hi-Cap mags. it is worth about $475 NIB it is $500..... I've sold 2x G27, and my brothers G33 all brought $475-$500 None of them had any holster wear. The G33 had 65 rounds through it. The G27 was new, and the other G27 was bought used but showed very little wear. If it just has 1 mag, and no box it is about $425 TOPS... Full size Glocks bring $25-$50 LESS than subcompact.