xtriggerman

I like Eezox dry lube. I had a full service gunshop 82-96 after PA gunsmith school and one day before I knew about that stuff, A customer ordered a Win M70 in 300 H&H. It was the absolutely roughest action I'v ever felt on a 70. I wanted to send it back to Winchester but the new owner Eugene, said let me play with it for a while. A couple weeks latter he comes in with the 300 H&H and hands it to me and says try the action. I was shocked.... it was like a completely different gun. the action was silky smooth with ZERO wash board effect in its movement. All Eugene did with it was watch TV while hand working the Eezox into the bolt body and rails. I ordered a case of it and never looked back. When the Gulf war was going on, I called Eezox for another case to ship to a co worker's outfit who was in Iraq. The CS guy at Eezox told me they sell the stuff by the 55 gallons to the Saudis. Back then it was primarily used inside magazines to keep the middle eastern dirt from sticking. The formulation has changed since those days but it is quality stuff. I still use it on actions, mostly 22 autos since that's what gets used most. https://www.eezox.com/

Thanks for all the comments. I'm not really a machinist, machinist. I had machining classes in Gunsmith school that was on all manual milling & lathe. No DROS or CNC stuff for me. Just simple math off a caliper. I have to say the Grizzly bench top miller I bought about 12 years ago is like my 110v mig welder. I couldn't live with out them! My 29 year old Grizzly lathe is getting long in the tooth tho.... Maybe a new one is in order when I get SS checks in a few years.

I wanted a QD rail that could take a pounding with heavy optic if need be so I built this to my own spec. This is on a early CIA thumb hole Imbel that I picked up off GB. Now, its reconfigured the way I want it! The blank and the starter..... zero tolerance recoil plate a cap to be welded over the stud extension yet. All friction fit The rear sight peep slide will be mod-ed into rear lock down latch over the 2 extensions. Good thing the bolt cover top radius is exactly a 1/2" ball nose cut under the base. I guess this is one of those challenges that I had to sink my imagination into. That's the rear base in the raw. now the front hand guard is Israeli Light Rifle with a custom fabed accessory rail I cobbed out of a cheap China AR handguard. The gas tube rings are made from aluminum bar stock & milled to fit the hollow channel under the rail. Also, I fit a steel front end to recoil up against the steel vented hand guard. Now for the finished unit with a fabed up L1A1 flip up peep made to fit the rail that is windage adjustable. Rear base lock in open position. Locked up rock solid... I wanted a flip out handle that could be popped out with the flick of a finger or edge of the hand so I welded the handle locking edge out quite a bit more so it sticks out just enough to get at easy but still lives nicely in an over stuffed safe. The scope base/cover slides off & on the receiver to perfect zero no matter what. The Century Imbel Franken is exactly what I want built over a first gen DSA Alloy lower. Now it can keep my SAR48 company!

38" barrel? OK, you need to know some thing right off the bat. If you put a Extra full "Turkey" choke on that long tom, it may very well not pattern any better or much better than what you all ready have. If you want to make it more handy in the woods by shortening it, obviously a good choke is important. The reason those old long barrels were so good in putting down long range patterns were the shot in the barrel has a longer time to be affected by barrel friction. Generally, the shot starts to hit max velocity at about 16-18" of bore. At that point bore friction starts to slow the shot closest to the bore or shot cup while the shot in the center of the cup continues to fly forward without the outer slowing shot pinching them back. By the time the first bee bees start leaving the bore, a nice "shot string" of bee bees has all ready formed, minimizing the choke's bad effect of flattening the bee bees as they no longer have to push threw the choke restriction like a fist all at more or less the same time. Your clay shooters know all about shot strings and those long barrels are awkward but do a nice job of stringing the shot into good long range patterns without the super tight extra full choke diameters. Those Turkey chokes only work good with buffered shot. With that out of the way, you need a absolute minimum of .855" OD for Win Choke II that is the same as Browning invector and Mossberg. Those are lead shot only threads. Some older guns like yours were actually tighter choked than the standard of .699" for a full choke ID.

Sorry to hear that.... It may be some thing very simple like a too tight extractor. That happens mostly on the last or next to last rounds when there is little help from the magazine spring to "pop" the chambering cartridge up in front of the bolt face. take the slide off and just push a cartridge onto the bolt face, it should go relatively easy with just enough tension on the rim to hold the cartridge in place on the face without it falling off. I usualy put a slight polish just above the firing pin hole and the top lip of the hole. A rough casting there will slow the in battery cycle. The other easy diagnostic is when it jammed and you couldn't push the slide forward, another action to try is put the muzzle of the barrel up against the edge of the table or what ever is near pointing down range and push in on the barrel. If the gun chambers up, the barrel recoil lug depth should be checked (.058) and their movement tolerance under the ceiling of the slide when out of battery is another very important tolerance. A Fast check on that is, with unloaded gun, pull the slide back until you expose most of the mag follower in the ejection port. Then hold the slide there and grab the barrel muzzle and push it in and out. It should have only about an eighth of in & out movement. If its much more than that, the slide/barrel/link geometry is getting in the unreliable zone. At this point, its factory part replacement time if any of that is out. Good luck with it.

Iv put together a couple hundred or so 1911A1's back in my AO days. And I have to say I was pretty impressed with a Ruger SR1911 my brother bought 2 years ago. It shot very well with nice sights and most of all the factory trigger was perfect out of the box. THAT is pretty rare. No tune up needed in any cat. And I'm not a big Ruger fan but they do a hell of a job on those SR guns.

I cant help you with the barrel install but I can warn you of some possible issues with the conversion. I worked on a couple 5.56 guns years ago and both issues were the bolt head was not able to pick up cartridges reliable out of the magazines due to all the slop in the bolt heads. The 5.56 rim in the mag is a much smaller target for the edge of the bolt head to pick up and too much AK typical bolt slop will some times skip over it or let go of it as it starts moving it out of the mag. So, be sure you have minimum fit between the mag feed lips and bolt face travel path. Some bolt & carrier combinations are just too loose for this to run 100 percent.

The 22 Hornet is a great cartridge. An old friend of mine shot a large pile of Coyotes over the decades with his Savage 23D. I have a 23B in 25-20 and really like these old classic Savage guns. Down side is cost of ammo. Only the import stuff is reasonable considering the tiny amount of material to make one of these rounds. Someday I'll get my Dillon set up for the 25-20 with spitzer heads & modify the ol girl for Winchester 351 SLR mags. That's the ticket right there for me in that category. If you reload, your good to go . https://ammoseek.com/ammo/22-hornet

Not to bad since the barrel has some pitting in the grooves at the chamber end. Miroku makes some nice stuff machining wise. I only have 38's right now and will fine tune my zero once I get some decent 357 rnds. Looking over top my bifocals, this group is about as good as its going to get out of me these days. Oh, one thing about doing this out of Rossi parts is that their 92 does not share the same threads on the barrel shank, tang screw, hammer screw or a couple of the other screws. The screw head diameters are same but they use a much finer metric thread on nearly all the screws.

I'v all ways wanted to own one of these iconic guns but never had the loose cash for one. I all ways figured I'd run into a fixer upper and actually bought a ratted out one at a gun show that was a 44-40 SRC. It was rough but thought I could rebarrel it. Well, once I got it home and took a real good look at it, I found that the pitting on the sides of the receiver actually had all ready been belt sanded to way, way thinner receiver side walls. Basically, it was a wall hanger. I ended up selling it and got my money back despite a detailed description of the monkey work on the receiver. Well, like most things, if you have patience and a little luck, this one came my way by way of buying out an old BP gunsmith this past fall. This 92 was in the shop and he let it go with the rest of the stuff. It was missing all the barrel parts forward the receiver aside from its rotted out 25-20 octagon barrel. A few action parts were missing and the lower stock tang stock screw hole was welded solid. Considering I about tripled my investment on selling off all the BP parts, this 92 was less than free if there could be such a thing. Everygunpart.com & Ebay to the rescue! I figured I would build a 357 and found a Miroku made Winchester 1873 barrel on Ebay and snatched it up despite not knowing if it had the same threads. I only had to weld a second notch on the chamber face up and the barrel screwed right into the Winchester 92 action perfectly. A few weeks ago, everygunpart had a Rossi 357 Puma 92 for sale and I snatched that up for mainly the small diameter firing pin bolt assembly. I also used the Rossi cartridge guides, loading gate, bolt locks, mag cap and follower. By the time I sell all the other Rossi parts, Its still a relatively small cost. So, anyway, the Gun Gods were extra good to me on this since the barrel clocked out perfectly tight onto the receiver with the extractor cut dead on at its 12 O clock position. On top of that, the head space with the Rossi bolt was dead on!!! Whats the chances of THAT? I should have ran out and bought some lotto tickets.....but didn't. The Ebay forend was sanded below metal fit so I shortened the forend front and rear by about 1/8th each and re cut the wood into the cap and receiver. I hate when people sand those edges down. Miroku soldered the mag ring onto the barrel so I did the same with an original ring since they had a large diam ring on there. All in all, the gun came out as a nice shooter with a franken twist. I finally own a some what, kinda, sorta original 1892! and yeah, I like the folding Marlin sight....

Before you drop the hammer on that, handle the Henry pump action 22 mag. Ergonomically speaking, the lever is nothing short of awkward by comparison. I don't buy much at all in the way of new guns, but If I had to scratch that kind of itch, I'd do that pump without thinking twice on it. I have a number of various lever guns and a couple old Marlin pump 22's. I like em both but a good pump action walks away from a lever in handling hands down.

This topic was visited not to long ago and just to save repeating some of the opinions, Heres that post. I wrote a rather lengthy reply since IMO, the cartridge is dam near what you could call a jack of all trades. Cost has come down considerably with Web purchases of just over 7 bucks a box for Feds and 6 plus a box for Armscor (made in Victor MT now) here at Surplus https://www.surplusammo.com/categories/rimfire-ammo/22-magnum-wmr-ammo.html Anyway, as I describe in my reply to xsubsailor, when 50 rounds can fit into your pocket and handle a variety of jobs, its a winner in my book. https://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/111268-22-magnum-rifle/

The very first brand new rifle I bought when I turned 18 in 1977 was a M1A. SN 006022. It was a nice rifle but accuracy was out the window once the barrel got warm. Nation Matching the bedding points is some what of a fix but not an easy job and takes on wear with cleaning take downs. I sold it when Springfield started selling SAR48's and that rifle is the nut. After tuning it up to my liking, I at one time fired 10 rounds in 5/8ths" group @ 100yds. Hand weighed & prepped cases with W748 behind Sierra 168g BTHP Match kings. Typically the AR's will out shoot a FAL but the history, parts and field reliability loom large in the FAL's corner. The HK is a decent rifle but they are far more rough on the brass with their fluted chamber walls and the sheet metal stamping of a receiver is a huge negative compared to the sleek FAL's milled bolt guides. AK 308's are built AK reliable but what you inadvertently get with that is an over gassed weapon with a high piston over barrel bore that inherently creates way more barrel whip that the close to bore piston of the FAL. Speaking as a trained Gunsmith, a properly built FAL is the best bang for the buck in SHTF hardware. In that scenario, adjustable gas launches it past the more accurate AR guns. The M1A is simply out dated with its multi point bedding system compared to FAL barrel harmonic geometry. I like the M1A but I love the FAL design. So much so.... I hang FAL lowers on more than just their uppers! Best buy right here...DSA w/ life time warranty

Maybe I was seeing things but I happened to have watched a short seen of a pair of cowboys campin up in the mountains. Dang if that gun thing wasn't sticking out of a saddle scabbard where those boys were camped......... I think the movie was Broken Mountain or some such ......thing. Red Ride-ar? Yeah they were riding something all right.........

Thanks guys. I'm glad you all enjoyed the write up, but I can tell you I enjoyed shooting it out even more I must say tho, I should update the scope with an adjustable objective scope that can tune out the parallax issue the Bushnell has at the more common close range uses I personally have around here. At this range, if I didn't look precisely threw the center of the eye piece, the cross hairs wandered as much as 1/2" across the 1" red zero dot. I like that bushnell as a hunting scope but paper punching demands far more attention than it should be. Oh, and the groups are measured from outside edge to outside edge. Thanks again for sharing your own 22mag experiences, God, ya gotta Love that little round!

As noted earlier, I was a bit light in mag ammo so I toped it off some with 5 bricks of this Federal 30g H-shok "hoping" it would shoot nearly as well as my preferred Win Super X 40g jhp's. The Marlin 57M has all ways shot that ammo the most consistently but the Fed being on a pretty good sale, I took a untested chance that it would be acceptable. The method of test was off my sand bag set up that I'v used for the passed 38 years. The scope is an old Bushnel Quad Power 2.5-10 that is paralaxed for 100 yards. My target range at this point is exactly 61 feet from muzzle to target. So, my group measurements will be with a dial caliper. Each group is a 10 shot string with my Win Super X leading the 4 types since the rifle is sighted in with that particular round. The Remington 40g PSP was a top shooter for a friend of mine so I was eager to test that round here and it clearly more spoty that the Super X. By the time I put the Fed H-Shok in the gun, the 40 rounds fired had created some very noticeable heat mirage so I had to slow down and shoot the feds with a bit of air breeze when ever it happened to clear the POA. I was pleasantly surprised with these results. If that lone bottom left hit was not there, the Feds would have taken the lead by a .040 tighter group. As it was, that one round put in equal with the Remingtons despite the Rem's being far more choppy. Then theres the Win Varmint HV's. Thank fully, I only have about 5 or 6 boxes of this stuff. This particular batch is the "Thunderbolts" of mag rounds. I didn't have hi hopes for it since my last bench outing with a new to me Uberti 5.5" SAA, that showed very poor group consistency and even in this test I could actually hear a difference in the boom report between 2 or 3 of the rounds. Before shooting this last 10 round string, I let the barrel cool down. It clearly has potential and I may even try some out of a new batch in the future but for now, I'm going to stick with Super X in 40 and there was no mistake in buying the H-Shok in 30's.

Minus 50 boxes. with my 2% cash back card, it boils down to $7.70 per to my door. I would prefer these CCI's but they are gone as soon as they hit stock at this price that is 21 cents more a box. https://www.sgammo.com/product/22-magnum-ammo/2000-round-case-cci-22-wmr-maxi-mag-40-grain-jacketed-hollow-point-choot-em-s The Feds did have a good test review here.... so I went for it. THANKS Hozzie https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2018/4/17/top-6-22-wmr-hunting-loads/

The back ground for this project is off a deal I made with my son this past Christmas. In lue of any Christmas gifts, I would just do some basic gunsmith work on his guns threw the year. So, he buys this CBRPS bullpup stock for his SKS and the trigger system the thing has is a sliding trigger and rails system that just flat out would not work the action reliably no matter what I did to it. Pure crapola! In frustration, I decided to ditch the bulk of the SKS trigger system for a much simpler mil spec parts set that would run the SKS hammer. With this new set up I could modify the bull pup trigger into a pull forward connecting rod rather that the sliding trigger and rails that originally were supposed to work the stock SKS trigger. The new parts I used were a M1 Carbine trigger and a FAL trigger seer cut to fit the carbine trigger. With these fit and positioned just right, I achieved a perfect zero creep single stage pull on the nearly stock SKS hammer. The final product pull weight is running 10.5 pounds but with the super wide aluminum trigger, it feels much lighter and no creep is a pleasure in any thing that goes bang. Here you can see how it all hooks up with the main trigger now pivoting on its own axis pin rather than that of a sliding assembly. And I installed a HK grip over the plastic nub of a grip that was there. The original mag system for this stock was cut tapco mags. Once again, just crapola in the raw. One of the tapcos was cut a little off and basically made it an example of why you should not cut these mags without a true jig that replicates the correct angles consistently. Rock & lock on this tight a unit is very un-natural. So, the solution was to install one of Marcus's G-9 adapters that would let me run AR mags but in my case, I would only do it if I could modify the receiver and BHO to function off Stock, UN cut ASC AR mags. And that is what you see on this pup. For this to be reality, it takes no more than 1 hour of machine work on the receiver and some minor reconfiguration of the bolt hold open plate. And these mods will not hinder the rifles function in the least if one were to put the stock fixed 10 round box back on the receiver. Marcus has all the technical machine operations needed to run the G-9 adapter with factory stock AR mags. In addition to the receiver mods for this, the drop free bolt mod is slightly different since the bolt needs to be narrowed a tad more and the length of the cut needs to be lengthened slightly so as to effect a clean pick up of cartridges from the un cut AR mag. Also, the inherit design of the AR mag with its straight body on top of its curved portion, demands a pair of 5 & 7 O-clock feed ramps be cut into the chamber face. Otherwise, when the follower gets light pressure under the forward part of the cartridges, the bullet tip will stab the chamber face just below the chamber mouth. The AR chamber face configuration does not suffer from this problem since its ramped lugs pitch the bullet up into the chamber right from the git go. The other issue I had to resolve was what was to be used as a folding rear sight that would be rock solid yet able to move left & right for windage so I could pre align the base so my knob adjustment could maintain center of the protective wings. The pictures show the solution with 2 belly screws threw the ladder sight, once loosened allows the sight base to move left or right threw oblong cut screw holes in the aluminum base body. Personally, I'm not a fan of bull pups in general but this is something my son wanted to play with so this one is as practical a shooter as I could have made it. The barrel is just a tad over 16" and it does in fact shoot where you point it!

Seems to me when I was on the High walker informational, he had a very healthy Paw Paw growing between his garden and house. If I remember right, he said a good amount of sun is needed to bring out any good size in the fruit. After seeing his tree, I'v also wanted to try growing a couple. Its that illusive long list of to do things........

I cant speak on the Henrys but I can on the other 2 contenders in 357. I have a 70's Marlin 1894 in 44mag and after a few smoothing up tweeks its a 100 % keeper. I wouldn't own a cross bolt safety gun..... ever. The in your face safety button is a stark reminder of why 64 million people and numerous dead had voted for Hillary. A blatant reminder of a degenerating society. That said, The Marlin is by far the easiest to take apart and really give it a good cleaning. The bolt comes out of the gun for a straight threw ram rod cleaning with just removing the lever pivot screw. On the other hand, the Rossi 92 has by far the slickest lever motion ever designed by the genius of John Browning. The Marlin doesn't come close the Winchester 92 design in "feeling" the action rip threw its cycles. But be for warned, pulling the bolt out of a 92 is pain in the jack ass. There is only one sequence of parts removal and a number of parts MUST be position just right to allow the said parts to be removed. Good thing the design can handle quite a lot of fouling because of its poor take down design when compared to the Marlin.

I all ways hoped Shaw or some other barrel makers would have offered .224 smooth bore barrels just for custom builds. Now if Henry wants to nearly double the effective range of that gun, I personally would take it in 22mag. I'v dusted a lot of wasp nests and a few hornet nest if range was right with 22mag shot. Smooth bore would be outstanding in the mag. Doing hornets with the mag has the power to blow the crap out of their nest..... close up, but clearly chancy at best. 25 feet with the mag and they are worm meat and you are absolutely safe. Good idea, but it should have been the mag. Carpenter bees are a lot of fun with a revolver but the spread makes for a lot of dead on misses. The 22LR isn't even close to the shreading power of its big brother

OK, they certainly look like mag pulls that faired well in the drop test but for me, the sight picture just plain ol sucks with my eyes. I couldn't get used to them.

After seeing the around $700 price tag on the web, yup the last owner hung those cheezy things on a 700 dollar gun!, Go figure....

My son traded a couple of basic guns for this Kel-Tech and I got to shoot it today. I didn't know what to think about it at first but hey, the thing is pretty well built. I was quit surprised and it shot very well. My only gripe is I would opt for much better aluminum flip up sights over the blocky plastic pop ups that came on the gun. This gun gets a thumbs up for a hi cap survival piece.

^ Yeah, When I tried to patent a free floating adjustable gas system for the AK designed rifle, I found out how bad the US patent office has choked off the small guy. A 20 year patent would have cost me cost $18,000 in "maintenance fees". And that's after all the up front costs of getting the application threw approval and out of Pending. I found out after about $1400 spent, they really didn't want to approve this kind of patent. After my failure..... they came out with a new category of filers. Its called "Micro" business filer. the cheapest way to file used to be under "small entity" that would have less than 50 employees. The New Micro entity got the fees cut in half for filing with having less than 3 employees. They have a "web" application process that one of the officers at the USPTO warned me not to use. He told me to ignore that and use the mail in paper method. Doing the entire process aside from the professional diagram prints, would have cost me over $20K to own a patent. Clearly, the "file your own patent avenue at the USPTO" is purely PR. https://www.uspto.gov/learning-and-resources/fees-and-payment/uspto-fee-schedule#Patent Maintenance Fee Since my attempt some 15 years ago, they have cut the fees considerably for Small entity when they added Micro.