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xtriggerman

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xtriggerman last won the day on April 4

xtriggerman had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    CROSSVILLE, TN
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Retired Corrections Officer

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  • Handgun Carry Permit
    Yes
  • Law Enforcement
    Yes
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    No
  • NRA
    Yes
  • Carry Weapon #1
    Ruger LCPII 380
  • Carry Weapon #2
    Beretta 81 32 NAA

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  1. Seems I had 1 too many sh**s the day I wrote all that! I gotta be more careful in the future.
  2. Im not familiar with the Wheeler compound. Acraglass is way, way obsolete. I learned on that stuff in Gun smithing school back in 79. Its runny as hell and brittle when hard. I used Acraglass gel for years and microbed for small jobs but they to are obsolete all so due to Acra gel is not as hard as it should be dry and microbed is no longer made. The best compound out there today IMO, is the Probed 2000 seen advertised in the midway vid link to your pillars. For GP rifles, it has all the qualities you want for a rock hard cure yet with perfect slow slump flow in setting your hardware into a relaxed, yet confined inlet space. For bedding jobs that would require multiple action removals for cleaning as in Mini14's, M1A's and such or just super heavy duty recoil, I would use Devcon 10610 Aluminum putty. It has exceptional abrasion resistance. Play dough is what I use as filler where needed. For release agent, I like a few spray on coats of Browells spray on stuff. It drys pretty fast & evenly unlike the brush on crap. I use regular electrical tape for all the over flow protection coverage. Also, your caliber and barrel wall thickness plays into how you want to bed. Start out with free floating by oversizeing your barrel channel below the wood to barrel gap. That gap should be credit card thickness. Tape off the barrel to the same thickness so the taped barrel slips into your inlet gap nearly snug. Then put your compound into the channel. This is done after your action bedding has been completed. Once you pop your barrel out, you will have a nice uniform barrel channel of free float space. As I said, many times if your barrel in that caliber is sporter or light weight, You will not acheave the groups you want for cold barrel consistency in bullet placement. If your not happy with your 3 shot groups in a cold barrel, you will need to bed the barrel with a 1" strip at the forend tip of stock (not an added on tip). Depending on barrel thickness, I use anywhere from 5 to 12 pounds of weight to hang off your front sling swivel while the 1" strip of bedding is drying under the barrel. Ruger Ultra lights were notorious for needing alot of up ward barrel pressure to get them to group cold. Pencil weight barrels just cant deal with unsupported barrel harmonics as well as heavy cal thin wall barrels. For some reason Free Float Barrel is suppose to be what every gun needs for accuracy......NOT! Remember Remington 700's were all ways forend bedded as well as Winchester 70's in sporter barrel weight class. Heavy barrel bench guns started this Free Float BS into the hunter class of thinking. Not to say that a well bedded action can at times not need barrel bedding but its not all ways the case.
  3. OK but what bedding compound are you going to use?
  4. Who's pillar bedding kit did you get?
  5. When I moved here 8 years ago I went n checked out all the shows around the area and made a couple decent buys but not many. Same as whats been said above. But what REALLY sucks to me is the near complete void of parts guys. My big time Fav was Allentown PA. There were numerous dealers that were parts experts and had volumes of them on their tables. A guy in the back had enough Trap Door Springfield parts you could dam near build a complete one from his tables. Semi inlet stocks galor at another set of tables. Barreled actions and broken guns to dicker over here and there threw the 750 table show. Not to mention the Antique gun tables over flowing with Spencers and the like all in various collector or shooter grade....... Breath deep...... OK I think i'm back to reality now.
  6. Unfortunately, that Detective was never intended to handle factory loads that run 45,000 psi chamber pressures. Thats like double what the 32 H&R has in a factory load. It would be a nice upgrade in 32 H&R and safe to shoot all day long without worry of putting the cylinder out of time and rattling the cylinder pin. Those parts are rinky dink duty to hold 45K in check. The net says they developed the round in a Ruger SP101. That like half ton PU to a Kenworth in construction strength.....not even close. Consider the 327 is dam near 357 mag pressures. Step back to the H&R and its a tad better than the OEM but then do you really want to bubba such a fine condition old Colt? If it was a tackle box rat, thats one thing, but that sure doesent look like one to me. The good thing is, it would still shoot whats stamped on the barrel just as well with the lengthend chamber so it could be your secret if you want it to be. Any Gunsmith could do the job, They would only need to rent a 32 H&R cylinder piloted reamer from 4D rentals , cut n polish and done. Good Luck with it.
  7. If there's one out standing feature on your Smiths that blow away everything else in fine revolvers is the .500" and .375" Target hammer/trigger options. They really let you get "into" functioning the piece threw its cylinders. Nice find. Best of luck with them!
  8. Another brain fart from this peanut gallery! I meant to say Cartridge "Lifter" not follower..... Sorry.
  9. Great story! Just a tip tho, that year put the gun in close enough time to check the follower. If its blued stamping, it could fail with any kind of use. Winchester's replacement was an excellent in the white casting that was far more heavy duty than the brittle blued stampings. Maybe you won't shoot it much but if you do, wont be a bad idea to have a good upgrade spare if it indeed has the cheap one in it.
  10. A DIY jig is just asking for trouble. You need a REAL milling machine with not the slop in the quil like a drill press. I bet thousands of lowers were buggared up over the years with their end mill cutter jerking into the side wall making it way too thin. I can picture a couple that were given to me...... for maybe 22LR builds?.....
  11. IDK how others train their dogs but mine would have to be starving to try a stunt like that. Our current Blue Healer will look and stare at people food all she wants but only if I give her a "bite" command will she put people food in her mouth. If my dog ever ate my food without the command to do so, all hell would break loose on the poor K9! Nothing physical of course. But she's pretty smart and knows her place. As far as good ham is concerned my Slavic upbringing puts good prepped Horseradish n Beets on any kind of ham for a sinus clearing explosion of love.... Only place that sells it here is Publics. I used to grind my own years ago. If you like some heat on your food, you aint lived untill you put a good sized gob of Horse Radish on a bite of ham.
  12. I have 3 types of older bore sighters and I really like the mirror idea. Never thought of that! I used to sight in rifles ALOT for customers when I had a business and A bore sighter is not worth all the money they ask for some of these if you know how to sight in a scope properly. Its pretty simple really. Invest in a good sand bag set or better yet is a lead sled where you lock the gun into a target rest that fixes the rifle solidly in place on the table. Put one hit on the target, set the rifle back in place to where it was on bulls eye before your shot. Without moving the gun, look threw the scope and turn your scope adjustments un till the cross hair is now dead on that first bullet hole. The more fixed to the table the gun is while turning the adjustments, the fewer shots you will need. I could sight in a rifle with 3 shots and that was holding the gun just fixed into sand bag rests. Trust me when I tell you, barrels are not perfect in being bore centered or being straight threw the center of the OD of a straight barrel. These "normal" inconsistencies is why any bore sighter is expected to be a paper hitter only. I still use a Bushnell sighter that has a single bore rod with spring on the end and it has put dead on target holes and on some, not even on the paper. Iv never used a lead sled but I,m thinking that would be the most fool proof way to zero on the fewest rounds fired. Bore sighter? .....not so much.
  13. With 4.2 gallons under the seat n 76 mpg, this scooter is my go to for town errands most of the time these days. My trail cam caught us getting an early ride before the leaves popped up here on the Plateau. I got rid of the grass in front of the house last year with a patio and wall. Hopfully, I'll get the screen room extension put up where the ladder is. Dang county raised my assessment by 200K this year!
  14. Antidepressants Are a Prescription for Mass Shootings – Citizens Commission on Human Rights, CCHR (cchrflorida.org)
  15. If unmolested by a prior mechanic of sorts, a pre 64 94 is a pretty fine action. You would have to give much finer detail on exactly were in the loading process you are having trouble. But first start by saying you are using factory new cartridges. Saves us the "reload" merry go round may-bees.

THE FINE PRINT

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