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xtriggerman

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xtriggerman last won the day on December 18 2019

xtriggerman had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CROSSVILLE, TN
  • Occupation
    Retired Corrections Officer

Miscellaneous

  • Handgun Carry Permit
    Yes
  • Law Enforcement
    Yes
  • Military
    No
  • NRA
    Yes
  • Carry Weapon #1
    Ruger LCPII 380
  • Carry Weapon #2
    Beretta 81 32 NAA

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  1. When I had a GS in NY a buddy of mine told me about a retired NJ State Police Lt. that retired to Newburg NY with a gun parts business. He said he saw his shop & talked to the guy. Apparently, this Lt was in charge of all stolen firearm recoveries in NJ and was tasked with destroying them as per BATF regs. So he destroyed the gun's SN frames and "discarded" the remainder into his personal trash can. Needless to say, he had everything from Luger parts to God knows what all for sale out of his NY shop. Giving guns back to owners dosent have to be a catering service especially in those places that dont believe in the 2nd as a rule. Besides how do you think these guys get parts? Gun parts kits. Home of EveryGunPart.com
  2. Look at it this way..... A "channeler" could use it, since apparently Wayne was fond of it to hook up the new owner with a personal interview! Ha,Ha...... LOL ! For those with more money than God....
  3. Send me the mag, I'll button it for you. I made one up for a 9mm luger a couple years ago. That picture Jeb 48 was kind enough to post is all the spec I would need. We had a pretty good chat when you and your Pilot buddy were over. Tell him I said hi.
  4. Didn't you and a friend of yours come over once for a little wrenching on a 22 hornet or something like that a while back?
  5. Great project. The bulk of those guns were JC Higgins guns made by High Standard. The butt shield is a dead give away for the HS brand. Those 22's were actually a really good design. The cartridge guide blocks were solid steel halves with a snappy working cartridge lifter/carrier. This High Standard gun was at the top of its 22 auto game in its day unlike the jam-o-matic Steven/Savage 187 series autos. The only flaw in this design is the fact you can't see the the follower threw the open action to see if your empty. If the tube gets dirty or it has a weak spring in it, working the action several times may produce a "ghost" round into the chamber! All ways pull the inner tube out and work the action to insure its unloaded if your inner tube feels a little weak. Good luck with it. I'v had one for 44 years.
  6. For what there worth?.... Numrich has Triple K's Stoeger Luger Parts for Sale | Gun Parts Corp.
  7. Kahles are about as tuff as they come. Back when Dave at Del Sports in Margretville NY was the sole importer, he shown me a Kahles that had a massive dent in the tube forward the turret. He said the guy dropped the gun on a rock hunting and the thing was still zero'ed! Back in those days they were a cheaper (if you can call it that) alternative to its kissin cousin Swarovski. IDK about these newer electro ones but they were top shelf in Glass for a very long time. Good Luck with yours.
  8. That looks alot like this Kyber 303 I bought a number of years ago at the Knoxville GS. They were hot on putting that distressed finish on the guns its even under the forend wood where as there should be a defined difference between the exposed and covered barrel finish. The darn thing even shoots but the chamber is so pitted, I had to knock the brass out with a cleaning rod. And no, I didn't hold it to my face when I pulled the trigger! Still plan on hanging a 45-70 barrel on it some day. Good Luck getting it completed.
  9. Congrats Greg.... If I didnt have so much to do in being retired, I would seriously consider buying a good quality stock duplicating machine and just crank out semi inlet stocks of various kind. Nice manlicher type stocks can bring a premium even in semi inlets. Heck I bet your dad might even enjoy shaving some close tolerances on it! The few that do stock copies are normally backed up at least 6 months just on orders. But I would just cut enough to fill a couple gun show tables and be done. Think about it. If you get too bored, its a fun hobby with $$$ benefits. A good machine would run you between $3500 and 4K to start.
  10. My 2 cents.... This gun does not have honest ware on it. Clearly, some one has all ready sanded the original finish off by a quick glance at it. Thats a HUGE consideration in this project. Sadly Gf54 is right in his assessment of what passes for a reblue from buffing wheel hacks. That has been true for ever. I did Hot bluing of blued & Stainless guns for over 10 years and it is definitely a talent in knowing how to keep a radius curve and a flat flat and equally importantly, the defined edge between them. In gunsmithing school, we spent alot of time on exactly what a factory blue consisted of in metal surfacing and how to reproduce the same. Just the variety of high quality belt sanding belts needed is no small change along with at least 4 buffing wheel types and grits as pictured. Normaly I would agree to keep it as is but its not original patina by any stretch of the imagination along with the pitting coverage. If the gun has a good clean bore and is in good running condition, I would do it if it were my gun as long as you find a reputable smith that specializes in restorations. The trigger guard could probably be black ceracoated maybe? I never did that stuff. If I ever get retired from retired...... maybe.
  11. Now thats a serious woods hammer! The checkered walnut was way, way too long in coming Marlin. Now the thing I like about the regular 1-5 scope is the fact that little scope gives you 81' at a hundred yard of view. Basically no magnification at all on one power. There has been a few times when one step or slight move scattered a number of deer in a general direction and the low to no power was able to make a fast determination on all their sizes because they were all still in scope view. Dropping the biggest one when they stopped & turned around to look (as doe's do), pretty much convinced me on that particular set up. I admit tho, I never put a scout scope set up in the woods but with my bifocaly odd glasses, not sure it would work for me.
  12. Thanks for the ! out of 28 views, must be no one likes the idea of a gun like this. At least the folks here got me into joining TFA. Alot of good discussion there that I can rely on. Gun story tellin.... not so much! lol
  13. A while back when everygunpart still had a bunch of Marlins coming & going, I grabbed a straight stock 30-30 on one of their one day sales. I thought I would build a light weight 336 some day once a stripped receiver came across my path. That day came.... sort of a few weeks ago on GB when a guy sold me an early 1950 336A 24" bl in .35 that was mostly stripped save for the lower tang, trigger & loading gate. Found a 35 bolt on Ebay and then once the 35 was in my hands, I found the reason for the dumping of it. Some Gun smith??? drilled and taped the receiver but ended up with off center holes just enough to have a problem getting a scope to zero in. The thing with tapping a non taped 336 and older was the ceiling of those receivers have a arched cut nearly half way across the ceiling of the receiver top. 2 of the dead center holes actually cut threw into that open slot that is where the lever sweeps up threw the bolt. Once a drill breaks the very surface, it quickly wants to move into that empty space and thus, bores the hole over to the right where there is hardly any resistance. Luck for this receiver, the guy didn't use the newer 8-40 base screws of a regular Marlin but some odd ball 6-40 screws. This allowed me the room to mill the small holes over in the mill just enough to over bore them with 8-40's of the weaver base and be damn near dead on straight! All tho he also drilled a 5th hole in there that was beyond help. Then for some ridiculous reason, someone extended the forend tip dove tail more than 1/8th forward so nothing would fit it. So much so, it was clearly visible sicking out beyond the wood! WTF..... well, I cut a new wide dovetail blank and friction fit that one and a second one up where you see the front barrel band. Both got belt sanded down to barrel OD and sand blasted & cold blued to pretty much match the matt finish that was on it as received. The pistol grip lower tang got a trim job that matched the straight stock yet kept the G300XXX SN in place. I'v read the cast bullet shooters love these pre micro groove barrels. I cut & crowned to 16.5" Trapper style. Makes for a good small critter gun with cheap lead loads. Any way, I topped it with new irons and a pretty decent China Spina 1-5 scope that has surprisingly nice glass. Originally, I would keep this since its as nice as an old meat gun comes but last week I closed on a pasture lot auction that is adjacent to my 13 acres giving me 30 and extending my back 410' against the state park land another 411'. Needless to say, I walked out of the closing with my pockets turned inside out. I'm dumping some guns these days that normally would have been traders or value makers. The last time the pasture lot was for sale was 1946. It was a total of 78 acres and the tax on it was only $680 bucks. Needless to say... a once in a life time buy for me and now puts me in green belt tax catagory for what I will keep out of the new 17 acre addition. Funny thing is the land auction closed 9 days before I collected my first SS check! If it wasnt for that new found cash..... the land buy would not have been possible. Compared to my 20.5" barreled model 36 30-30
  14. The problem with shops around where I am is they don't want to do complete cars. They make their fast money on bang up collision jobs and out the door. The 2 main sorts of completes is a tape & paper everything complete and a restoration complete that requires about all the removable body parts like headlights & tail, Handles and molding removed and reassembled along with inner door jambs. Those restore jobs allow a better paint adhesion all along the accessories since you can sand the full panel instead of "trying" to sand up to the edge of something and time is the only way to sand close and tight to removables without removing. Trying to find a GOOD tape & paper complete is like trying to find a good gunsmith. One of these years when I get a new garage built, I'll set up a booth in it to play at it once again. Good Luck. For what its worth a Car show guy told me Chan's will do nice completes here in Crossville. I didn't do any more checking with that shop. Scarlets & Baislies are not into completes at all.

THE FINE PRINT

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