xtriggerman

On a good note, I heard over 4000 kids participated in the Eddy Eagle program here in Cumberland county. Parents were surprised to hear their kids singing the Eddy Eagle jingle when they got home from school. Only hope it continues and expands. http://ghoward9.wixsite.com/ccsheriffs/single-post/2016/02/15/Cumberland-County-Sheriffs-Office-to-Offer-Eddie-Eagle-Gun-Safety-Program

Im not familiar with these new off shoots of the 110. I read that there is a screw that needs to be loosened to remove the striker assembly. And I imagine the plunger type ejector will only need a fine punch to tap out the cross pin that holds it. Reassembly of the ejector is tricky since you need to compress it in place, slide in a thinner "slave" pin and then drive the slave pin out with the original pin....swiftly. Hope that helps.

My first thought is you have a batch of short formed brass from Fiocchi. Its easy enough for you to check your head space with those rounds if you have a dial caliper. Take the firing pin out of your bolt and the ejector out of the bolt face. Using an unfired round, put a piece of masking tape on the cartridge head and trim the tape cleanly around the rim with a razor. Place the round in the chamber by hand and close the striped bolt on it. Normally you wont find resistance in the bolt handle "locking up" with a single piece of tape. Put a second piece of tap on the cartridge as you did the first and try it in the gun. with 2 pieces of tape you should start to feel a slight resistance in the bolt handle locking up. If not add another piece of tape. Once you get to resistance, peel the tape stack off all together and mic the tape. This is a rough idea of your head space with those particular cartridges. If your getting .007 or more, you are in too much head space by factory standards. I like to see a strong crush on 2 pieces of tape so much so that the sticky side shows the print of the head stamp. Normally that would put the chamber in the 3-4 thousandths range which is perfect. Before you try this I would erg you to get at least 2 other brands of rounds to test like this along with the Fiocchi. I have seen cartridges vary by .003 between brands. This will tell you if its the rounds or the gun's head space at fault. There will be gunsmiths out there that will get their shorts all twisted up reading this "gauge less" procedure. To them I say, get a life. Space is space no matter how you measure it!

Here is a second gun resurrection post. This is a "how's it done" posting that I hope will be enjoyable as well as an informative posting. The Marlin #47 pictured here is one I bought on GB a few years ago. The 47 was made in 1930-31 and only given to investers who would buy at least 4 shares of Marlin stock for $100. It was also the First Marlin to get the new cyanide process color case hardened receiver. Of course it would have to be THIS rifle to be caught up in a fire! All the springs including the mag tube spring are still in good working condition making it a worthy project. This segment will deal with making a new pump handle since the wood on this was toast. I have already fitted a new semi inlet butt stock from Numrich Gun Parts. To find a piece of wood that may be the easiest to remanufacture into a handle, I found I had just the piece. It was an unknown broken butt stock that would save me one whole machine operation. The butt stock tang bolt hole happen to be slightly larger in diameter than the Marlins barrel OD. So I band sawed the stock to include half of the length wise hole. Once the chunk was cut out, it was a simple case of measuring the mag tube hole center below the barrel channel and putting V counter sink holes on the ends for turning the piece on centers. Here I match the OD to the original tho slightly over for later sanding. Once I had a round handle, it was easy to bore the mag tube hole centered in the 6 jaw lathe chuck to this raw pc. The next step was to mill in the action bar relief. The mag tube hole drill is set into the handle and then clamped snugly into the bench top mill so as to not crack the handle in the vise. A nice snug fit The action bar has a defined rust line where the wood covered it so that line was where I chucked the rusted end of the bar into the vise. I use a drill that would be the ID of the bar's attaching holes. That drill is put directly in line with the Bar hole and then the wood is slid on under the drill and a perfectly in line hole is born! Same pre line up the hole, then get the wood in between the bar & drill. Once the line up holes are in, the handle its self is chucked up and the holes bored to attaching screw OD. Then the screw escutcheon reliefs are bore to exacting depth. The escutcheons yet need to be sand blasted cleaned and blued before I press them in the handle, but here it is in the rought. The next segment will be the relining of the barrel.

Why do you feel you need to check the head space on what is a relatively new rifle? Are you running into some issues?

The only way to get rid of pitting is to cut the metal surface down evenly across the entire panel until you get below the bottom of the pit. A polished surface will show the tiniest pit while a small pit can be masked to some degree by giving it a sand blasted surface. The courser the blast media, the more you can mask or even eliminate the pit. But then you end up with a rough finish. Get some 0000 steel wool and some Flitz metal polish and you can rub out quite a lot of fine surface rust on blued or stainless.

These Haarp units are being built willy nilly around the globe today. Its a sign of the times and I don't trust its a good one. Here are some pictures of the mobile sea base units that were built in Texas some years ago. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+haarp&rlz=1T4GUEA_enUS583US583&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiE8NzZms7OAhXEQCYKHb5VBJwQsAQIJQ&biw=1402&bih=698#imgrc Back when I first found out about these there were only 6 land based units including the one we built in Alaska now there are over 20 and growing. If this is new to you, here is a small sample of what they do. http://www.globalresearch.ca/haarp-secret-weapon-used-for-weather-modification-electromagnetic-warfare/20407 https://prof77.wordpress.com/wtf/strange-satellite-image-downloaded-from-austrailian-weather-site/ The applications of these newest units are pretty wild. We are all Guiney pigs!

The red flag for me is the "they" will part. There is a huge difference in "they". Take it from a guy who has a few rolls of piano wire and a lathe spring winding jig. The RMA for the one is the right thing to do since its not a run a the mill unit. Personally I would have mentioned the distributor since USPS boxes are free, there is no excuse for twisting a spring to that extent. That way JP could have had the opportunity to mention that he would contact the distributor about how this could have happened to his product, making a more concerning response to you. So much for my Monday night Q B'ing! Good luck on a new "straight" spring.

That one on the left looks fine but the other one was bent badly on one of the coils from the looks of it. Even if you specifically reverse bend the affected coil, it will always tend to have that over bend week spot right there and return to a slight bend there after shooting. I would send that picture to JP Ent. and see what they say. Its still a usable spring of course but chances are it will never be somewhat straight again like the other one. JMO

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WWMike, sure you guys are welcome to set n chat while I get the operating table layed out with the 342 vitals. I'v never seen rivets in any of those trigger assemblies. But then again I only had 320's a 325 and a few 340's to work on years ago. The general design should be the same. I went to PA Gunsmithing school 79-81 worked at Auto Ordnance a few years and had a full service gunsmith business 82-96. I was ready to get back into it. I got everything but the FFL and now I'm cancelling the effort due to the jerk in the White House's new ITAR manufacturing definition. I don't need legal drama in my life. If Hilary gets in maybe she'll define a gun hobby needing the same $2,350 dollar annual permit just like a business gunsmith. You cant make this s*** up. Thanks for your Service.

OK, its fun working on the old guns. If you ever get out this way (10min south of exit 322 I-40) I'd hook you up, mag & trigger while u watch. no $$. I take it you served in the Navy. Take Care

Well, it sounds like someone polished the hell out of the bottom edge of the bolt face, beveling it to the point its no longer a 90 degree edge! Brass casing are simply too soft to do that no matter how many hundreds of thousands of tiny 22 hornets it may have digested. What you have just described in your posts is a common low hanging magazine issue, If you latch an empty magazine in under a closed bolt, the magazine should have no more than a 16th of up and down play, latched. Now that is "if" the feed lips on the mag are in proper configuration. If the mag guide post is at the proper angle and you have more than 1/16th play as described but the feed problem goes away if you hold up on the mag, there is one thing left to do to salvage the mag. As I have done on numerous guns in the past, put a dot of mig weld on the mag lock up points and then cut the weld down to match the sheet metal and then fit the weld by file until the 1/16th play is achieved. I was hoping this problem was something you could fix your self but if you cant get another mag, that's how it is salvaged. Back in the 80's I used to sell those Savage 340's in my shop and you wouldn't think a cheap gun like that would shoot. I had one bencher that had me glass bed and trigger tune one in 222 and he showed me 10 shot groups covered with a dime at 100 yards from that "cheap" gun. So if you have a good bore in that Hornet, don't let this bump in the road get to you, its well worth a fix. Aw hell, I'll by it from you if you don't want to fool with it!

As far as the spring latch, its very unlikely it has wore down at the mag lock in contact since its spring hard. If it does not have tension enough to hold the mag reliably, yes I would tweek it slightly by bending its full length forward a bit (not at a specific point so not to crack it). The bolt face may have some poor machining but the soft brass cartridge heads will have zero effect on wearing the harder steel of the face in any way other than lapping it slightly smoother. When fitting the mag guide post, do it with the bolt closed so you don't bend the guide post so far that the mag hinders the bolt's forward movement over the feed lips of the mag. The mag well opening "should" keep the mag from going too far up in front of the bolt but hey, it was a cheap gun in its time. The mag lock up nubs should still have a defined 90 degree "step" for latching. Wear may amount to the sharp 90 getting rounded off some what but wore off to the point of the mag not letting the bolt face pick up a round is not likely but that 342 is at least 61 years old so anything is possible. Iv seen critical things filed on way too many times!

As far as your feed issue. The first thing to examine is the amount of "grab" the bolt face has on the back of the cartridge to get it moving forward. If there is an adequate amount of engagement there, It would point to a wrong bend in the mag guide post #30. It would need to be bent forward slightly. This bending would bring the bullet tips higher up onto the feed ramp. With the mag guide post properly bent, the front tip of the mag should just start to touch the receiver as the latch makes the lock in "click".

For CCW, a Kahr K40 black stainless with all mags modified with S&W 4016 followers n springs. This gives the Kahr an additional round in stock mag bodies. S&W 645 for gp rock throwing. 1873 JP Sauer 5.5" 44mag for snake medicine. Lahti M40 as a play 9mm. FEG fake FN Hi power for play n winter carry. Taurus 941 3" 22mag as woods carry. High Standard light weight 22 auto w/ custom barrel for bulls eye. There are others but these get the most use.

I have come to use only one method of quickie cleaning any fire control groups that are in good working order. Get a can of Wal-Mart Engine starting fluid and have a compressor with a blow gun capable of 100+ psi. The starting fluid cuts oily grime like nothing else and comes out of the can in a powerful stream. While still dripping wet from the spray, blow the action out clean. The engine starting fluid air dry's quickly. Then just lightly re-lube and your done. Dried oily grime may need a tooth brush type brushing while wet with the staring fluid.

Well..... My opinion on what I would do is simple enough. First I would determine exactly where the mag feed lips are to that hole while in battery. Take the follower out and pack the hole and surrounding area with a layer of play dough. With the mag in place, slowly push the bolt into lock up over oil wet mag lip. open the upper and remove the bolt. make a determination of how many thousandths of clay still covers the hole. Do about a 2.5 second mig weld burn over the hole and cut the weld to an appropriate thickness skin to cover the hole and then rebore that area of the FP hole to only clean out any interior weld. To keep the heat treat distortion to a small area around the hole, a cold wet towel wrap should be used around the bolt. With it being a 9mm, a small weld dot in that part of the bolt would be insignificant to the functional reliability of the bolt.

I thank all the good comments on my tinkering. And since it looks like folks like to see a "how its done" here at TGO, I will take the time to photo post the next re-furb. I have a Marlin #47 pump 22 that was in a fire. Its pitted pretty bad and the wood needs to be replaced. I will also post the process of relining the barrel. There will be a lot of before and after shots. My goal is to resurface the metal to a factory cut. The 47's are quite rare in that they were never offered for sale to the general public. Stay tuned to the Gunsmithing postings in the next few months.

I would second Caster's thoughts. Thinning out a 26" IS going to make it more difficult to find a load that shoots well in a hot caliber. I would consider getting it fluted. Not only do you get a weight savings, but cooling is enhanced and the barrel will retain much of the same rigidity of its original condition. If you have shot this barrel good and hot a number of times, I would not be concerned about any pre loaded stress giving you a warp. Even if it did warp after a fluting, it would more than likely be in the MOA range if at all. JMO

Thanks, I like QD every thing so aside from the upper receiver stripping like a FAL, I made the front end a one detent button take down. Push in this detent, spin off the flash surpressor and bingo everything just slips off the barrel! I love farting around with this stuff when I have time.

Back in 2012 I also wanted a 9mm carbine and saw some potential in the MPA 971. Stock, its an unwieldy tank. just terrible. So I re-machined it taking off nearly 3 lbs of dead weight. Added a heat shield and AKM wood up front, AR hammer and centered the FAL lower under the Cobray upper. It uses stock Cobray M11 "semi" bolts. Great shooter with the HD mil spec sumoi 72 round drums.

It sure will be mighty fearful times when the SHTF. Reading these two stories reminds me of one of the very few things my father told me about his service as an Officer in the Wehrmacht during WWII. During any type of discussion or confrontation, once a hand went to rest on a holstered gun, someone had to back down or it was game on. Wonder how many jokers will survive the transition form peace time la-la land to SHTF days. Not looking forward to it, but as they say, Its in Gods hands.

I wouldn't try oversizing it unless absolutely necessary. Take your 1/16th punch chuck it up in your hand drill and cut it down to the matching diameter by spinning the punch onto a spinning grinder wheel. go easy and cool it in water so as to not over heat and soften the punch. first just grind down only about an 1/8th" of the tip and get the roll pin started to move out, then grind back more of your puch to get in deeper. Other wise you can bend a long skinny punch with starter hits where a short stub tip will get more force on the pin to start it out. You might be able to reuse the pins.

you don't want a Winchester 100. They had a firing pin recall back in the 80's and most of them never got the very few FP's that were made. On top of that the action bars get fatigued and become brittle and crack if they get shot a lot. They are great as M88 lever guns but the autos were way too weak a design. I have a SAR48 FAL and would never sell it. I tuned it for reloads and shot a fluke group once of 10 consecutive in 3/8ths hole at 100. The Saw butt went down the road because of the super low check weld. I bought a first year M1A back in 77 and it was a very reliable shooter but what killed it for me was the hot barrel wandering groups. NM bedding is not a easy fix so I sold it and went for the FAL & never looked back. Hot barrel wandering is nearly non existent compared to the M1A. I was drooling over this one just from condition alone! I wasn't the only one as you can see it top at nearly a grand and that is really not bad at all. http://www.gunbroker.com/item/563196578 There are basic kits running about 500 on GB and the boys over at FAL Files will walk you threw getting a receiver and what all. But you need FAL specific tools and good machine understanding to get the barrel timing right w/ headspacing a recoil shoulder fitment. If you are going after a group shooter build on the AR platform. They are the easiest to dial in for that but its tough to beat the machined quality (NON stamping reciever) of the battle tested FAL. You just cant go wrong with a FAL and its with in your price range.