BigK

Perhaps I misspoke...The match registration form does have the G34 listed in 2 places (Amatuer & Master Competition and Master Unlimited)...like you said. I disregarded the Master division, b/c I figured I'd only look silly for paying $25 to shoot in it . BTW...do you really have 19 Glocks or are you kidding?

I'm looking forward to it. I wish there was more than one event for G34 (only Glock I have).

I have a question for you two guys about the powder measure. I have a Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure. Their chart said for 4.0 to 4.1 gr of Bullseye, I would use the .43 hole. I see what Jonnin meant about it being unreliable. The .43 hole throws 3.7 gr and the next step up is .46, which throws almost 4.3 gr. I want to use 4.0 - 4.1 gr of Bullseye, so unless I'm missing something I have 2 options: I can get the double disk upgrade to get the extra .3 to .4 gr by adding a disk on top of the .43 disk. This option is around $13-15 + shipping. I can really upgrade and get the Lee Perfect Powder Measure the Dolomite recommended. This option is around $21-25 + shipping. I'm leaning toward option 2, but would appreciate hearing what you guys think. Y'all have a lot more experience than me at this. Also, let me know if I'm overthinking this. Is the difference I'd see from dropping down by a few tenths of a grain worth the trouble?

Not sure if this is sound rationale, so please correct me where I'm wrong. Both of my 9mm's cycle WWB flawlessly. I measured several and used their average OAL as my target for the rounds I made. IIRC, the OAL was 1.15. A few of the first were JUST slightly off (1.125-1.175). The ones that didn't cycle were amongst these that varied before I got it "set" like I wanted it. I suspect they were the longer ones. The feed issues and the "duds" were all 4 in my Glock 34. My CZ P-01 had no issues with any of my loads. In fact, the first 5 went in it and the 2nd 5 went in the Glock. I'd have expected the CZ to have the least consistent rounds in it, but it did fine. I definitely wanted lower recoil round for the range, but I also want a round that I can rely on to knock down steel in IDPA and meet their minimum power factor. The MPF is 125,000, so for 9mm I can achieve this with 115 gr X 1087 fps, 124 gr X 1009 fps, or 147 gr X 851 fps). I can get there using any of these, but I figured the heavier the bullet, the less recoil. Right/wrong? I know this. In fact, I think you even warned me. No excuse other than zeal and lack of good sense. I guess I was over-confident, b/c I got the load data I used from some veteran IDPA guys who reload their own ammo. Any changes/experiments will be smaller batches from now on. The pics of barrells peeled back like bananas, mangled flesh, and exploded polymer frames scared me bad enough. Then I remembered the imprint in a wood beam at my local range from a revolver cylinder when the gun blew up. That's all I could think of when I weighed those first dozen or 2 powder charges to make sure they were right.

I wish I could be positive, but I'm not. In both cases the primer looked as though it was sufficiently dented (not pierced, not flat). After some initial trial and error, I thought 'there has to be an easier way'. Then using a factory round as a gauge occurred to me. It was smooth sailing after that. They only thing I did differently is that I'm using a 4th die to put a factory crimp, so I backed off a bit on the bullet seating die to prevent over-crimping before I dialed the seating knob down til I felt it touch the tip of the factory round. Gotcha, I'm not changing the settings, I'm only making target/IDPA rounds (124 or 147 gr FMJ).

I waded through some troubles getting the flare/powder die and the bullet seating die set to the right depths. I had a few where the bullet would go in too far, b/c I flared the mouth too much. I had a few where the mouth buried itself into the copper jacket or deformed the case, b/c I didn't flare it enough. Once I got that right, I messed up a few more trying to get the bullet seating depth right. I finally got the right amount of flare and the correct OAL. I carried my first 50 rounds to the range today to try them out. Since this was my first batch, I wanted to hide under the bench while I pulled the trigger. I had my daughter with me, so I didn't, though. A couple that didn't go boom and a couple that didn't feed right. They were near the front of the batch, though. The rest worked as good as the factory loads I shot after I ran out of mine. I don't know if it's my perception or what, but they seemed like pretty clean loads. They were fairly light too, which is just what I was going for. I was using 124 gr Ranier FMJ, very clean once-fired brass, and 4.2 gr of Bullseye.

The kind of education he gave that extra is not the kind of message you deliver soft and sweet. Soft and sweet may work when teaching someone BEFORE they pick up a gun. During the act of waving one around...you gotta make sure they realize how serious what they're doing wrong really is. Way to go Tom. +1 on the "what were doing on the Perez Hilton site.

Nice pistol! My old Mark II looks a lot like that, but it's not stainless. Great shooter, ultra-reliable, and tons of fun.

Yeah, the anti-gun zealots and the media WANT it to matter where the gun came from as much as how it was used. That way they can blame someone else along with the scum bag, giving them more fodder for their agenda of villainizing gun rights advocacy. They don't believe or want to hear that a scum bag would get a gun some other way if they got their wish and stopped gun shows.

Man, I'm glad to hear I ain't the only one. My wife makes fun of me for changing up based on how I'm dressed or where I'm going. With loose fitting cargo pants & t-shirt...CZ P-01 in Crossbreed Supertuck. With jeans & t-shirt...same gun in pancake. With long shirt/jacket...Ruger SP101 in slightly dropped holster w/ several speedloader holders My Kel-Tec P-32 is always in my pocket, but it becomes my primary if I can't conceal one of the above.

Again, great advice, thanks. I may keep the hand primer after all. I'll run a hopper full of powder through to be safe, but let me ask you something. Doesn't that disk system cut the powder as it meters? Will this affect the loads I use twice cut powder in? I'd suspect it will make the powder burn faster. I checked out the links you posted too. Wow! I wish I'd had those links this weekend. I could've saved a ton on equipment. I'm sure I'll need more, though.

I'll probably take you up on that, thanks! I just got a turret press, tumbler, and all I think I need to get started. I definitely appreciate the recommendations on scales and all. I will probably want a better one than the magnetic one my kit came with sooner than later. I also appreciate the heads-up about the Glock case bulges and the brass cleaning idea.

I let the guy at the shop talk me into the hand primer, but realize it was a mistake. I can return it next time I'm out that way and get my $20 back. I ordered the safety prime system you mentioned and the obligatory powder riser at the same time I ordered the tumbler kit. So, I should be all set there. Since my press is the 4-hole with auto index (> 2006) instead of the Lee Classic (<2006), I think the primer system will fit without the mount. At least that's the impression I got from some Lee videos of the primer system in action. At least I hope that's right. I got a set of calipers last time I was at Harbor Freight. They aren't the best, but they've been working good so far when I use them to measure leather for holsters and stuff. They should do fine for checking OAL until I can get a better set. If I got the gist of the powder disks, I should be weighing the first several after I get it dialed in to make sure it throws the # grains I need. I hear you should also weigh every 10th or so load to be sure it's right, but I hear it's consistent once you get it set to the proper disk setting. Any way, thanks for all your help...everyone...I can't wait til my primer feeder comes in, so I can get started. I'm trying to "find" a Bullseye load for Ranier 124 gr from a Glock 34 that is near the minimum power factor for IDPA. It'll actually be fun experimenting with that. I can rent a chrony pretty cheap at the range.

At this point, I enjoy this so much that I plan to make every match.

As usual, I had a great time. Thanks for having us out again.

Thanks Jonnin for the valuable advice. I went to Outpost Armory today and bought almost everything I need to get started. I could have saved a little by ordering from MidwayUSA, but I was anxious to get started. Here's what I got: Lee Deluxe Reloading Kit Lee 9mm dies (set of 3) Lee 9mm crimping die Lee hand primer tool Ranier fmj 124 gr RN (500) Alliant Bullseye (1 lb) Also, I ordered a tumbler and a primer feeder. I just realized I didn't get the Lee Classic Turret Press. I got the cheapo with the aluminum handle. Should I take it back or will this do?

Would THIS reloading kit with both upgrades and THIS tumbler kit be a good enough place to start? Then I need a bullet puller, a reloading manual, and I'd like to get an extra turret and set of dies for a second caliber, right? Do I need case lube? How about reloading trays? Are they only needed for single-stage? Am I overlooking anything besides supplies (primers, projectiles, and powder)?

I've saved up enough to get started reloading. Now I've just gotta sit down with someone knowledgeable and get some specific recommendations on equipment.

Awesome, thanks. If I buy 1000 rounds, I can get it delivered for $9.60 per box of 50. That's not bad, since WWB is almost $24 per box of 100 with tax at Walmart.

The savings is the main reason why I want to start reloading. I've heard a lot of good things about the amount of money I can save. Being able to customize loads for faster follow-up is another reason. Gregg at MCTS was telling me recently at an IDPA match they were hosting that it makes a noticable difference.

Just to clarify...we are both talking about CCI Blazer with aluminum cases, right? If so, this would be good news. As long as others are shooting CCI in their Glocks and not having FTF's or FTE's, I can make do until I get into reloading.

I'm looking for some CHEAP target/IDPA ammo to shoot in my Glock 34. I'd rather be reloading my own, but to be honest, I'm a little overwhelmed by all the choices and components I'd need, that I've been putting off getting started. I shoot too much for a single-stage press and cannot afford a Dillon. I'm sure there's a solution for my needs somewhere in the middle, but until I figure it out, I need to buy ammo. For the price and volume I shoot, I'm looking at RM Ammo, CCI Blazer and/or Wolf Polyformance. I've had bad luck with CCI Blazer in my CZ P-01, but I haven't heard much bad about it in Glocks. I've never heard of the other 2, but for under $10 for a box of 50 I'm definitely curious. I'm hoping someone has some advice that might sway my decision. What do you guys think?

Oh yeah, my bad...she's not a marshall. She is hot though! The Hollyweird brains that make decisions on that show were smart enough to cast her, but not smart enough to know anything about guns. l'm not surprised.

Count me as one of those the loves what the greedy bastards are doing. I don't resent a penny of what they charge me to shoot there. Will that comment get me a few PD's forgiven and/or seconds off my next score?

Anyone watch "Breakout Kings"? Last week a prison escapee they were after stabbed a guard and took his Glock 17. After learning he'd killed 2 people, one of the U.S. Marshalls after him said "A Glock 17 has a 12-round clip, so he only has 10 bullets left". I tried not to let it bother me, but failed.