Jonnin

It depends on the gun, how long "long term" means, and so on. If you plan to store the guns for decades and they are made of steel that will rust, you may want to tear them apart and coat them in cosmo or whatever modern compound (you can reassemble after, just want to coat it good everywhere and that means a breakdown). It worked in 1930, and it still works. Its messy to apply and messy to remove, but it works. If you want to store it for a couple of years, wiped down with light, thin oil (rem oil works great) and the sock, as mentioned. If the gun has finish (is not stainless steel) you should make sure the finish is intact everywhere. That means even areas that normally wear off with use, like come areas where the slide runs across the barrel in an auto, for example. Areas where the finish is gone, you might consider using one of those finish touch up kits on it (even the sharpie looking "blue touch up" pens will prevent rust for a long while) or other "cold blue" or similar type things. Naturally, the enemy here is moisture. If you can store it in a place that has moisture control (dehumidifer, heater combo in a cheap safe or even just a box of some sort) or chemistry nearby (moisture removing compounds that you replace every so often) are a big help. On par with this, you want to avoid some things. Dust is very, very bad: dust covers the gun, then soaks water from the air (at least in TN humid summers) and then rusts. You want to store the gun in something.... a plastic box from walmart (good place to use the moisture sucking chemistry compounds), or a cardboard box, whatever. You want to avoid (for long periods) anything touching the actual metal that can hold moisture --- just like dust, a sock (literally, one you would wear on your foot) over the muzzle is probably bad (its ok for short term, just not years on end). The socks that are made for guns are not what I meant here. Really that is the key... just do not let anything touch the metal directly long term, protect it from general dampness and humidity, and it should last forever. If the gun has a wooden stock, if you want to store it for decades+, you will want to treat the wood before you store it --- a few good rub downs with appropriate wood oils for example. Whatever you do, you should inspect your stored guns from time to time, at least once a year if you can manage it. That way, if something does start to rust or rot, you can deal with a minor problem rather than a complete restoration, and address the source of the problem with your storage before it gets out of hand.

I find sweet tea to be one of the most crazy things. You do not order coffee at the waffle house and expect someone to dump in exactly the amount of sugar and cream into it to match your particular taste -- you do it yourself. But everyone expects a food place to have sweetened tea that is just right (usually, at most places, its about 3-4 times too sweet, and worse, weak, making it a nice glass of cold sugar water). I think tea should be the same, always unsweet, do it yourself to get it right ... I cant believe anyone drinks the stuff that most places serve.

1) absolutely. If a state makes a law that violates the US constitution (ratified by the states and agreed upon by them), the SCOTUS should say so and invalidate that law. THAT is their job, actually, the other cases they see are often NOT their job or at best tangential to it. Pick anything in the bill of rights for example, and imagine a state making a law that is 100% the opposite of it (no guns by no one period, or only white men with a job can vote, or the governer is now in charge of all news outlets.... etc) --- time for the SOCUTS to earn its keep. 2) The civil war was, politically, a war about state's rights vs federal rights. However it is not related to the above directly: the slavery laws in question were not in violation of the US constitution directly (they are now, but were not at that time!). It was a slow breakdown of the system, where compromise was tried and failed, eventually leading to the attempted peaceful "we do not want to be a part of you anymore" southern secession. The war was fought to FORCE the south to remain a part of the country, really. And it pretty much settled that issue: states do NOT have the right to declare independence from the USA via simply stating that openly. Here again it only touches the issue from #1. The us constitution does not directly provide a process for a state to leave the union, nor a process for a new one to be created. They winged it on those issues, and as each side had its own opinion and nothing was in writing, war became the way to solve it. Edit: It is still unclear, and not written down, as to whether a state could leave the union under any circumstances, and whether the union has any rights to try to prevent this. If it were to happen today, it would not be resolved by war, though. Today, government would just cut off the money and infrastructure, wall off the offending state, and leave that state all alone until it came crawling back. A state today, with no army or military equipment of consequence would be fair game for every sorry little dictator out there "offering" to "garrison" the new "country" with "peacekeeping forces" --- of course that would just be a way to get their army closer to the USA proper, which would lead to another cuban crisis type event.....

what about the small S&W M&P frame? Its a 3.5 barrel, not sure of the price but should be $600 + or - some at a guess?

that is wise, buying without seeing it leads to a pile of holsters. My wife thought she would hate IWB, but now loves it. There appears to be a type with some sort of offset to drop the gun lower if you prefer, and that is what my wife finally decided upon.

Must be a fake news story or someone got the facts wrong. We all know a 380 can't even hurt you when shot directly, much less from a riccochet. For once, I do not blame the alcohol here. I think that in this case, they could have done the same thing sober: it is a lack of understanding about what will and what will not be dangerous to shoot at and at what ranges. I highly doubt that the fellow would have known, if totally sober, that such a target is going to bounce the bullet back.

Hmm I shoot my .22 at 200 pretty regularly. I think its a question of optics more than anything else, that and finding the drop at the range you want to shoot at. I have 7 and 9 power scopes on my main .22s and 200 is really not that difficult with such a setup. I do not know if I could even see a 2-3 inch target with a low power (3-4) scope at that range...

He needs to ban crime first. Lot of people are getting hurt because of it. Oh and driving. A lot of people are hurt in cars. And, um, working. Lot of people are stressed out because of work, causes heart problems. And um...

when I was a kid I spent many many hours with a homemade one. It was one my dad had when HE was a kid, just a Y forked branch with a couple of innertube bands tied onto it, a leather patch made the cup. I shot gravel and pennies and similar ammo, it was good enough to hit an old paper grocery bag (the big ones) at 10 yards or so. When I was a teen I upgraded to a wristrocket type, with arm bar support and surgical tube type bands, etc. And I bought some steel ball ammo. Much better. I still keep one to shoot at stray cats and other pests with, and once in a while I play with it. But I doubt I could bag game with it, its hard enough to hit a cat sized critter, I bet I miss more than 50% on those!

Guy was a jerk for sure, but I would gladly buy a new gun with minor surface damage for what the dealer paid for it (and I suspect many other people would too). He should be able to sell the gun for 0 profit, 0 loss, and get on with his life. A small aggravation but the dealer should at least not lose anything. I know everyone has to hit the can or whatever, but I hate going to a gun show and the person at the booth is a 10 year old or the guy's wife or something. Last one my wife bought a taurus, and the dealer's wife messed it all up --- tried to give her an empty glock box, assured us that the revolver held 6+1 rounds, and in the process of getting her out of the way the dealer failed to give us a recipt. It cannot be that hard to get someone to hold down the booth who can answer basic questions and has the fortitude to say "I have no idea, but my husband/father/buddy will be right back and can help you!".

Lots of good responses ... I will add my 2 cents. The laws were covered The number of rounds a defensive shotgun can hold is generally tied to its length (exception for a couple of mag fed guns) --- a tube that runs down the barrel. As others noted, a pistol grip gun is a bear to control ---- and it really helps to get a forend (vertical) grip on those if you insist on getting a pistol grip. In my opinion you want the biggest gun you can manuver inside your home with. If you cannot do that with a full sized gun, then you will have to go to a pistol grip. My defense gun is in a large room that controls the home (it covers the front, side doors and the stairway from downstairs). No one can get past that room to hurt us if I control it. It is a full sized gun and holds 11 rounds of short 12 ga or I think 9 rounds of magnum. If I were going to go room to room with it, I would get a smaller one. The size is the most important thing, and it must be usable in YOUR environment. If you go with a pistol grip, I would at least consider a 20 ga as an alternative. It is still quite powerful, but managable recoil in the smaller platform.

wait for a gun show or get it online. Or get academy to order you a case or hold the next case they get, they may work with you. But online is the best bet even with shipping tis cheap.

If it were mine, and he had asked, I would have said "go ahead". But doing it without asking is wrong. I agree, tell him he has lost your business and why, and move on. He may try to make it right, and its up to you to accept that or not, but I could never trust the person again.

Scale and calipers, maybe. The 380 is possibly the most dangerous round I load because the difference between starting loads and max loads for a number of combinations is 1/2 a grain roughly. I would be afraid to use just a dipper to load those combinations, I would insist on a scale to go with it.

I have 3 of them that we use at 3-gun. One of them lives on the stock of the gun, and it works. It can rotate around the stock if you are clumsy with it or get in a hurry, but it holds the shells without dropping them just fine, and works. I sometimes put the other 2 on my arms or even on my belt, it depends (my gun holds 11, 5 more on the stock, and most stages only have about 10 shotgun targets tops..). Anyway, they work fine, and about the only negative I can think of is they shift position a bit, the nature of a soft, slick wraparound on a piece of slick plastic/wood/metal, its about as you would expect for that (slips up and down the stock by an inch or 2 and rotates around the stock when empty, if loaded, it rotates a little but not as much, the shells prevent it from going far). The shells could fall out if you have the gun in such a position that the brass lipped part of the shell is DOWN. If the brass lips are UP, they catch on the cloth fine and cannot slip thru. So if you loaded the shells upside down or held the gun upside down for a long walk on a hunting trip, they could fall out.

I dunno, it sounded like they all have guns.... a real liberal would occupy his yard ....

tear it down, clean it up. Probably a 90% chance it can be saved.

I am kind of ok with how they handled it. If you were there, you were a suspect --- so they take a look in your car, find no stolen bag of money, and you move along. No different than if you were leaving any other crime scene. I would like to think that if I were leaving the scene of a murder, the cops would stop me. That is sort of their job. I am much more disturbed that they assume the person with a loaded gun is a criminal than I am that they checked all the vehicles in the area. I hope this is just bad journalism or the police being quiet about any additional evidence (they often do not give the press all the facts on purpose). It would be very bad if the "suspect" is only a suspect because of the guns --- there has to be more evidence than this.

My wife also likes the pink & black setup. Well done! She is looking to have one done to match her rifle.... anyone know of a metallic pink finish that would match the tactical solutions color, and who might be able to do it?

I agree with zero the scope for the far distance and hot load, then bring them down to match the distance. If this is an automatic rifle, though, it may well turn out that the reduced loads up close are too light to cycle the gun. If it is a BA or lever or similar gun, you can do it. I did this for my mauser. After a few tries (I guessed right and it was close on the first try) I now have ammo that, using the 300 yard zeroed iron sights (for a standard load) are dead on at 100 yards. And it is *much, much* weaker than a standard load. I think the same would be true of the 223 and it will be too weak for an AR at 100 if dead on with a reduced load. You can certainly DO it, though.

Cleveland hunting/rifle/pistol club. Um I can never remember the price, because it gets mixed in with the NRA dues for me. They require NRA membership & if you want you can pay both at once (the club handles the NRA part for you) so we do it that way. All I can remember is that it is not very expensive at all. I can look it up, but its about as inexpensive a facility as you can ask for. You can attend 3-gun without being a member (as with other similar events). Membership is required to go there to shoot outside of the sanctioned events.

The divisions are all played together, but scored seperate. Someone there will tell you which division you are in. To get into open division you would have to have guns that give an advantage --- for example my shotgun puts me in open because it holds too many rounds and has a red dot sight instead of a bead. Our club is super casual (allows any calibers for the guns, for example, though a .22 pistol will NOT work in some stages where the targets are not paper) but is a bit of a drive for you, in cleveland TN. If you wanted to go that far you would be welcome.

eaa does not make anything. They are an importer of euro guns. That said, I have not seen anything they import that was not of good quality, and the tangfolio brand witness guns are excellent. However, if you want to know about the gun, find out who *really* makes it perhaps for more reviews?

I hit mine with the trimmer every time. Sometimes it does not do anything (trimmer does not cut because it is already short enough) and other times it just bumps it lightly (polishes, but does not really do much). Once in a while it cuts of visible amounts of brass. Seems to be at random when it cuts off noticable amounts, I cannot find any pattern. I load my 308s fairly light (not a whole lot over a 30-30 in overall performance) for short range fun and so far the only losses have been one or 2 split necks, at 5 or so reloads. I think I had one case buckle. So out of around 100 cases fired 5 or 6 times each, I have lost 5 or less.

its the same thing. The 380 is known as 9mm short, 9mm browning, 380 auto, 380 acp, 9x17 and maybe other names. ACP is automatic colt pistol or something like that, and other brands do not like to use the colt brand name on their guns, so the name was changed to ap (auto pistol..) and auto to get rid of the offending "colt". You see the same thing on 45 acp. I have a 9mm pistol that is finicky like this ... some rounds just will not chamber due to hitting the rifling early, and likely that is your problem. Use another brand. Most foreign ammo will have 9x17 or a similar metric designation rather than 380 which is in inches and only really used in the US.