Reloading Economics

[Andyshowfan]

I have been interested in reloading for a long time, with recent events I have become even more interested. My questions for you that have been in it awhile is: 1. is it economically feasible to spend unknown amount of money to reload .223, .40, .38spl, 30-06? 2) is it very hard to learn 3) what are some of the pros/cons of the "cheap" single stage loading kits 4) What all equipment do I need to be a "hobbyist" reloader and last but not least 5) What would should I be looking for to get the most bang out of my buck so to speak?

[Caster]

Step 1: Buy a couple or three reloading manuals.  Lee, Speer, Lyman ECT.

 

Step 2:  Read them.

 

Step 3:  Read them again.

 

Internet forum knowledge champions are a poor substitute for a printed book.  

 

You'll thank me later.  

[Andyshowfan]

Step 1: Buy a couple or three reloading manuals.  Lee, Speer, Lyman ECT.

 

Step 2:  Read them.

 

Step 3:  Read them again.

 

Internet forum knowledge champions are a poor substitute for a printed book.  

 

You'll thank me later.  

I have a guy that has been in it for a couple of years and is willing to teach me "hands-on" but have figured on getting the books as well. Thanks!

[Jonnin]

I have been interested in reloading for a long time, with recent events I have become even more interested. My questions for you that have been in it awhile is: 1. is it economically feasible to spend unknown amount of money to reload .223, .40, .38spl, 30-06? 2) is it very hard to learn 3) what are some of the pros/cons of the "cheap" single stage loading kits 4) What all equipment do I need to be a "hobbyist" reloader and last but not least 5) What would should I be looking for to get the most bang out of my buck so to speak?

1) not sure what you are asking.   Reloading economics is to invest ONCE in equipment that will save you between 10% to 75% of the cost per bullet consumed for the rest of your life.  You can spend under $500 and be good to go for the rest of your life for the hardware, though you do need to keep buying the consumables like powder.  I paid for my equipment inside a year, but I shoot a lot, much of it pricy ammo types like 44 mag or 380.

 

2) I found it easy to learn.  You have a recipe: put this much powder with this type of primer and this weight of bullet into a case that is this long when finished.  Use your equipment to make it so.

 

3) the cheapest presses are not made of steel and can bend over time, needed to be replaced.   Get a steel press.  Single stage presses are slower, so it takes time to make your ammo.  I recommend starting with a steel turret press instead if you can afford the extra costs.   You can use the turret press LIKE a single stage if you want, but you can never use a single like a turret to speed things up...

 

4) at the least you need a press, dies for the caliber, a table, storage space, a precision scale (good to at least .25 grain resolution), calipers, the internet or a reloading book, brass cleaning system of some sort (can be home made), brass trimming system (can be $10 + a drill).  Most of the rest are "extras".

 

5) Lead bullets for pistols really save a ton.  Copper is valuable and the process to apply it is that much more manufacturing.  Casting is cheaper still if you want to go there, but lead bullets are very cheap.   A single stage saves money but again, turret is going to speed up your process by double or more once you get comfortable with the process.   Avoid buying things you do not have to have --- its easy to get sucked into buying more and more tools and toys for your reloading, but keep it simple will save money.  Make your own table for $10 worth of 4x4 and plywood, for example.   Buy components in bulk, and wait for deals.  Avoid paying hazmat shipping fees over the web.

[enfield]

In normal conditions, whatever they are, some calibers are well worth reloading - to get otherwise scarce ammo or to get loads that are not commercially available.   Some loads are cheaper to buy assembled than to do it yourself.

 

Under current conditions, reloading may make the difference between having ammo or not having any.

[Jonnin]

In normal conditions, whatever they are, some calibers are well worth reloading - to get otherwise scarce ammo or to get loads that are not commercially available.   Some loads are cheaper to buy assembled than to do it yourself.

 

Under current conditions, reloading may make the difference between having ammo or not having any.

 

This is a tricky one.  

 

take the classic 9mm example, before the shortage and price jacking.  Say you can get a box of russian steel ammo for $9 a box.   Can you beat it at home?  Yes, you *can*.  Lead bullets, you are looking at $3 for 50.  Primers, 1.50 for 50.  Powder, a few cents per 50.  Cases: free, pick some up off the ground.  So you *can* make 9mm for 5 bucks a box and it will be better made than the steel bottom shelf stuff. 

 

If you had to buy cases, and if you wanted to use copper jacketed bullets, you will spend as much or more than the bottom shelf steel ammo.  It just depends on what you can use and whether cases are easy to find.   If you had to buy new cases and cannot recover them, it would cost even more!

 

--- to date, the only ammo that I cannot seem to make for less is 25 acp.  I am working on that.... but the "correct" bullets for it cost almost as much as the ammo.

[Lumber_Jack]

I like the phrase I've heard here many times, as its true.  You wont save any money reloading, but you will get to shoot twice as much :D

 

it certainly provides a hedge against the panic buying that has plagued us 

[MississippiBoy]

I like the phrase I've heard here many times, as its true. You wont save any money reloading, but you will get to shoot twice as much :D

it certainly provides a hedge against the panic buying that has plagued us

Unless you are trying to buy a press right now.....

[10-Ring]

I've collected most all I need to start reloading but plan on moving soon and plan to set everything up once I move.  Eventually I want to get into casting, I have a source where I think I can get all the lead I would ever want for free.  Some quick assessment tells me that if I scavenge brass (already have several friends saving for me) and cast my own bullets I think I can make 9, 40, and ,45 for less than $4 per 50.  Honestly I haven't shot anything but .22's very often for the past several years because of the price of ammo.  At $4 per 50 I feel that I would pretty much shoot about anytime I feel like it.

[Jonnin]

I've collected most all I need to start reloading but plan on moving soon and plan to set everything up once I move.  Eventually I want to get into casting, I have a source where I think I can get all the lead I would ever want for free.  Some quick assessment tells me that if I scavenge brass (already have several friends saving for me) and cast my own bullets I think I can make 9, 40, and ,45 for less than $4 per 50.  Honestly I haven't shot anything but .22's very often for the past several years because of the price of ammo.  At $4 per 50 I feel that I would pretty much shoot about anytime I feel like it.

 

this is about right.  Again, just using lead bullets that I bought, I can get those calibers in the ballpark of $5 per 50.  If you cast them, and the lead was free, you are talking $3 per 50 or so, with MOST of your costs being primers, which are $3.5 per 100 right now roughly.

 

If looking at lead, remember (or if you didnt know) poly barrels can have problems with very soft lead.  If you have a poly barrel gun, you need to use a harder lead alloy, at the least, if not buy another barrel for that gun.  Poly barrels are most common in glocks, and a few european guns like makarovs.

Edited January 15, 2013 by Jonnin

[Guest Frightful1]

You are a little late to the game right now since panic buying has reduced the equipment and component supplies to nearly nothing, and driven the prices thru the roof.   Don't fret though.  In the next few months, assuming that Barry and company do not do any thing REALLY stupid, the supplies will be available again.

 

Reloading is a very gratifying hobby.  Not only is it relaxing, but it serves a purpose for the shooters among us.  I started loading with the idea of saving money on ammo as well as being able to produce a more consistant product than the commercial guys.  I have succeeded on both counts as well as having ammo available when times like the current situation are upon us.

 

Your questions have been answered for the most part in the above replies to your post.  I will add my opinions as well.

 

1)  Yes, it is economical to reload.  I load .25/.380/9mm/38spl/.357mag/.40/.45 as well as .223 and 30-30.  I save an average of 50% in everthing I load. For example:  Premimum 9mm was running about $15/50 the last I checked, and I am reloading them for about $6.50 using previously fired brass.  Of course this does not include amortization on the expense of the equipment.  It took me about 3 years to pay that back.  You can go absolutely crazy with equipment, spending over $1500 for the press alone (Dilon) or about $300 for a single caliber kit that contains the press and accessories.  (Lee)  To add a caliber will cost about $50 (Lee) to about $200 (Dillon)  I have used most brands of the equipment manufacturers and have found that although the top of the line units are smoother, faster and more robust, they do not produce any higher quality product than the Ford/Chevy level equipment.  I have reloaded thru two periods in my life and in the last stages of life I chose to go with the Lee equipment and am very happy with it.  I have about $1500 invested in my setup with all the bells and whistles for 9 calibers.  You do not have to invest that much to reload.

 

2).  No, it is not hard to learn.  I cannot stress enough that you need to obtain AND READ at least two reloading manuals, I use Speer #14, Lyman 49th edition, and Modern Reloading.  I verfy ALL my load recipies with the supply manufactor to develop the most suitable load for my uses.  From there go step step by step and with care you will have no problems.  If you have a question that the manuals don't cover to your satisfaction, ask on this Forum.  There is a lot of expertise here.

 

3).  I do not reccomend the inexpensive single stage reloading kits.  Go with at least a Turret press kit to start.  The Lee Classic Cast press kit (p/n 90304) gives you everything you need to start loading except the dies.  This press runs about $300 from Lee or about $240 from FSreloading.com  A set of carbide dies will run about $60 from Lee or about $50 from FSreloading.com.  This gives you everything you really need to start reloading except powder, primers, brass and projectiles. 

 

4),5).  Pretty much covered by 3) above.  My sources for supplies are:

Lee reloading equipment:  www.fsreloading.com

Bullets:  www.tjconevera.com

Brass:  Saved from what little commercial ammo I have purchased in the past, scrounged from the range floor, traded with other reloaders.  I have purchased some brass both new and "once fired", but find that I can usually find what I need from other shooters.

Powder/Primers:  Watch for sales at the big box stores, you local GS, and some of the dealers on this forum.  Unless you can get in with a few other reloaders for a large bulk purchase, avoid internet purchases due to the hazmat fees involved.

 

Other things I would recommend that you obtain:  Vibratory tumbler to clean brass, a digital scale, case conditioning tools such as a primer pocket cleaner other than the one that comes in the kit.

 

I am sure that, like me, you will find many other goodies that will help you have a rewarding and successful hobby in reloading.

 

Have fun, be careful, and good luck.

[Dolomite_supafly]

You will not save one red sent or recoup any of your money but you will be able to shoot a lot more.

 

There are two reasons to reload. First is quality. That is any ammo you reload will perform better than 90% of the ammo you might buy. Second is quantity. Reloading will enable you to shoot a lot more than when you buy.

 

But in either case you will not recoup or break even on the money you have spent.

 

There are several ways to make it even cheaper. I cast my own bullets and it is easy. Because I do I can load 9mm for under 4 cents a shot, 45 ACP for under 5 cents a shot. I can load my 300 blackout for 4.4 cents a shot. If I had to buy my bullets they would cost roughly 4x those costs. Another way to save money is buy cheap components because even with the cheapest components your handloads will still be better than any blaster ammo you can buy so you are still ahead.

 

Reloading itself is easy. If you can bake brownies or a cake you can reload. They both use recipes but have different ingredients.

 

As for the knowledge you can read books, research on the internet ot talk to long time reloaders. ANd I will offer the last thing for you. If you have any questions PM me and I will answer the questions. And if need be you can call me and I can talk you through it. I have talked to several people about reloading as well as physically showed them how to set things up.

 

Dolomite

[Jonnin]

If you are on a limited budget, for the record, *I* have managed fine without a manual of any kind.   I have load data (free from powder manufacturer's sites),  I have a lot of help (tons of info on the web, and these sorts of forums).   But so far I have not required a book to make ammo that is sufficient for my needs.  I have even learned how to create load data where none exists, to make cases for one caliber from another, to make pretty good target quality ammo.   I have made a few mistakes too, but as I err on the side of careful, none have been more than an aggravation.

 

I am not saying to not buy the manual(s).  I am just saying, I have managed just fine without them, and it sounds like you are on a budget.....

[Guest Lester Weevils]

As far as "low budget" practice ammo, mainly will shoot walmart federal or winchester that works pretty good. Never tried steel case cheap stuff, but the "slightly less expensive" prvi partizan brass 9mm I tried from Academy-- The brass is high quality as good or better than anything for reloading, except the primer pockets are a little tight. But that stuff was inconsistent velocity, had a funky smell, left the guns filthy, and there would be various odd "sparks" coming out the barrel and occasionally a little bit of hot something (probably burning powder specks) coming back on my face. After shooting at the range, there were tiny black dots all over my face and arms.

 

I can reload clones of XTP factory ammo for about the same price as walmart federal practice ammo, and cheaper than that for real good-shooting Rainier copper-plated bullet stuff loaded to "almost NATO velocity".

 

I never went shopping for lead bullets except in times of shortage, when lead bullets seemed so close to the price of copper-plated soft lead or cheap jacketed, that I didn't ever buy any lead to play with. Maybe in times of plenty they are lots cheaper, or maybe I never looked the right place at the right time.

 

Maybe if I ever get more time might try casting, but I'm slightly clumsy and pouring lead on my foot wouldn't be much fun. :)

 

So it saves me a little money, and gives lots better ammo than factory practice ammo.

[SHARPPOINT]

I load only 9mm. I bought my my "decked out" Dillon 550B for $400 from a Man going on to the 650. Payed for it the 1st year or so. I was buying Fed 115gr from WalMart at $12+/-. I load 124gr lead for $3.35 per box and 115gr MG for $5.50 per box. Soooo you first question is YES. As far as "hard to learn" what everyone else has said, and also ask the good people on this board. Most folks here (not me unless it's about a 550B, MG boolets, TiteGroup powder and Federal Primers...) know what they are doing!! And someone WILL have the answer to your question. Happy loading