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I have found a used S&W M&P .40 for $200 as far as firing it works great, but it looks like someone took sand paper or something to the finish on it and it has some rust issues. I have never reblued a gun myself but was thinking about trying it on this one, my ? is, is this something a complete novice should try or would you recommend taking it to a gunsmith.

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I was told by the previous owner that it use to be a service weapon for a Sevier county LEO and was traded in when they got new weapons. Not positive if the story is true but seemed believable enough. It came with 2 extra clips and original hard plastic box, so it was a great deal I believe, I was going to reblue it to increase resale value, not planning on keeping it long, so I'm thinking having a GS do it would be my best option, can anyone give my a ballpark figure on what I should expect to pay to get it done?

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ok, total novice to this so I guess I need to do some online research, I had no ideal there were so many finish options for a firearm. I never really worried about the finish on my personal weapons as long as the function was good, just doing this one because I plan on reselling it.

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of all the above, Cerakote is probably the best for the DIY .. I (still) use their ambient dry and it does well.. has a high heat threshold which for my suppressors, receivers and such work well (lot of things full auto get hot fast).  While it's used mostly for scopes and plastics, the ambient has held up very well on my ARs, pistols and skins on my bolt rifles.  The heat cure is the best for metal but you need a dedicate oven and it's a little more aggravating to deal with ... mixing hardener and such .. the ambient you just shake and spray... any left pour it back in the jar and it will last a good little bit.

 

Blueing is the worse.. several steps you have to do, flush tanks, displacement tanks, salts, etc.. it gets nasty and is dangerous and will rust anything metal within 25 feet ..don't ask me how I know ;o)  Parkerizing isn't as bad but still a PITA for a onesess twosees type of jobs ..

 

While you can use the cold blues, they do good for touch up type stuff but I wouldn't recommend using this as a complete refinish.

 

Unless you have several guns and/or just want to do it yourself regardless the cost, sending it off will be far less costly than procuring the compoments you'll need.

Edited by LawEnforcementSalesTN
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I was told by the previous owner that it use to be a service weapon for a Sevier county LEO and was traded in when they got new weapons. Not positive if the story is true but seemed believable enough. It came with 2 extra clips and original hard plastic box, so it was a great deal I believe, I was going to reblue it to increase resale value, not planning on keeping it long, so I'm thinking having a GS do it would be my best option, can anyone give my a ballpark figure on what I should expect to pay to get it done?

 

Not trying to be pessimistic for you, but look carefully at the market on the M&P line. Distributors and sellers like CDNN, Grabagun, and others have M&Ps selling around the 399 and lower mark. You may be putting a lot into it and not get it back.

 

As muck as I like the current polymer guns, my brother in law, who hates them, has a point on them. They do not hold high value long. And pieces like police trade ins are easily found for very low prices.

 

Just saying to be careful what you put into it. For personal use, and keeping, it should be fine. For resale...be watchful before spend a lot.

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For 200, I'd use Duracote or Cerakote. Heck, I'd probably use chalkboard paint as Dolomite_Supafly has mentioned. I certainly wouldn't put a 100-150 dollar finish on a $200 pistol.

Heckuva deal, btw.

Edit: As far as blue, it's basically cosmetic, not protective. Phosphate is a bit better in that it will hold oil. Even better, it will hold Dura- or Cerakote very well. Edited by Clod Stomper
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