Dave Shooter

Great to see you working to get back in the game Robert!

From the Western Powders burn rate chart:   "Burn rate charts can never reflect the differences between powders in the correct proportion, and can only place powders in approximate burn rate envelopes. NEVER USE THESE TO DETERMINE/CALCULATE LOADS - ALWAYS REFER TO REPUTABLE LOAD GUIDES/MANUALS."

I know of at least one that was out of spec and broke links.  If I were going to use a Spartan for serious purposes I'd have someone like Tim Calhoun check it over first.

I've seen a lot of first time gun buyers in LGS' buying roundguns. Revos are simple to learn and the used ones at least seem cheaper than most semi's.    Gun and Knife in Oak Grove had some revolvers in stock; don't remeber if any LCRs.

Short answer to original question --yes, type of bullet makes a difference.    Gilding metal versus copper jacket versus plated versus lead all have differing coeffiecients of friction.  Different styles of the same weight may have different amounts of bearing surface.   How much difference?  If you're shooting mid-range pistol loads and go from one brand of jacketed bullet to another of same weight it might not be enough to worry about if all you need is for it to go bang.   Rifle can definetly go from safe to overpressure just by switching bullets.  The "lead free" bullets are usually longer than lead core of same weight and take up more powder space.   The standard advice still applies: when switching any component back off the powder and work up again.   Good Luck!

.38s are ridiculously easy to load.  Only "secrets" I have:   -use just enough bell to start lead bullets, heavy bell will reduce case life -have a strong light  your work area, small charges in tall, skinny cases are hard to see   Good Luck!

Here ya go.   http://www.flickr.com/photos/dave_shooter/sets/72157632878712312/

Shoot it now and again.  Last time out it shot 3/4" at 100 yards with Hornady 35 grain ammo and cheap 4x scope.

I've got a pre '64 70 in .22 Hornet.  The engineering that went into making that round work in that action is pretty interesting.

Will it headspace and fire normal 9x19 ammo?  You'd have to pick the cases out but at least you could shoot it.

mudduck, how much are you looking for?  I can spare some if you don't need a ton.

+1 One technique is to take a factory round, run it to top of the press, and screw your crimp die down until it firmly touches the round, then set lock die.  Good neck tension will keep the bullet from seating deeper as it hits the feedramp.

During the last primer shortage I loaded some small rifle magnum primers in 9mm.  None of my striker fired handguns would reliably set them off; hammer fired guns fared better.  Your mileage of course may vary, just wanted to say you may want to test a few before loading a bunch.  I wound up giving that ammo to a friend with a SMG, where they worked fine.

It was great to see RWF and Wanda at the range today!

I can personally attest to this with a 1050.  Also set off a small pistol magnum primer years ago using a Lee Loader.

Thanks to everyone who pitched in to help set up!  Classifier will be CM 03-11.

Of course we will have to give Aaron grief...

North Tennessee Practical Shooters will host our monthly match 9 and 10 Feb with first shots around 9.  Afternoon squads will shoot after morning shooters are complete.  Setup will be Saturday 2 Feb.  Any help is always appreciated as are ideas for stages.   NTPS.org  

Using a Giraud trimmer is actually faster than measuring each one.  You hold the case in your fingers and push it in like an electric pencil sharpener.  The actual cutting only takes about a second.  I put a box under the trimmer and just drop them after trimming.  Using both hands you can trim a ridiculous amount of cases in a short time.  It trims, chamfers and deburrs all at the same time.

Almost all the brands will work.  You do want "carbide" for the sizing die; with these you will not have to lube the cases.   Since you're using a single station press you'll want a traditional die set with an expander die, some sets designed specifically for progressive press do away with the solid expander and replace it with a hollow die that the powder funnel/expander slides through to operate the powder measure.   Good Luck!

I also saw him shooting and didn't see anything wrong, other than a spent case coming out of the chamber when he racked the slide. We looked at the extractor and didn't see any problems, seemed to have right amount of tension with no chips or other flaws.   C.A., did you finish the match the WWB or the ammo I gave you without any problems?

You may want to make up a dummy round, and with the barrel removed from the gun drop the dummy in.  Adjust the seating die deeper until base of the case is flush with the barrel hood.  That should tell you what the maximum length for that bullet in that barrel.  You can then load some live rounds starting with a low charge and work up till you get what you want.

+1 A knowledgable shotgun smith can relieve some barrel material behind the muzzle to create a recess choke if you want choke and don't want to get them threaded.

Tim Calhoun   http://www.calhouncustomfirearms.com/

How much velocity loss do you get with barrel?  I bet it's quiet!