I_Like_Pie

Brownells is the only place that I know that sells the charcoal that one would need. Just like the oven - there has to be another source that is cheaper. Are you going to make a drop ladle or just pour it into the oil/water? Am really interested to see if your build works. If so you could start somewhat of a garage business making those ovens.

I think that many years ago there was a similar kit for Enfields....they used grease gun mags. There were a couple at the shows in the late 90's but I haven't heard anything from them sense. It seems that this is a similar thing. The cool thing about them was the big old can at the end of the barrel....I can imagine it would be a very quiet setup.

Are you taking spar varnish/urethane or the spray poly? I use spray high gloss poly because it coats well and then wet sand very carefully to level it out....2 or 3 coats is all you need. If it looks too shiny after that you can hit it with 0000 steel wool to dull it to the level of matte you prefer. Make sure you allow poly or regular urethane to dry for 24 hours before you wet sand it or dull it with wool. It may be dry to the touch in 15 minutes, but it is still rather soft.

Imagine this vs. this Acting like a "cop" is very obvious. The funny thing is that most of the MG guys I know fall more into the latter than former.....

That being said....they are a blast to shoot! Those 33 round mags get swallowed up quick!

Not a hack job at all....it looks really nice. It is funny how some people approach the camo of wood with paint. They lipstick them up like a shirtpainter in Pigeon Forge. I think that the way you did it looks MUCH better. The green stain as a base keeps the grain of the wood and makes it look nice as well as serve a purpose. I have done several in a similar fashion and they came out really well. I used rit dye powder crystals diluted in alcohol for the stain.

If you do find someone in the Nashville area that does it well and reasonably priced...let us know.

Matt....Just send it to Coal Creek in Knoxvegas. They charge a reasonable rate and I have heard not one bad thing about their work. They do both Nickel and Chrome plating. The set up costs of a DIY rig are pretty high.

Would think that some type of wadding and a fast powder would work. The pressures are going to be way, way low so it would be very hard to damage the gun There has to be someone who has tried this with low charges of bullseye or unique. Would be fun just to work up a load starting with a primer and working up in 1.0 grain increments. Would be willing to bet that just a primer alone would send it flying a ways.

Supply channel....all are the same Vintage...4 years ago they switched to polymer trigger guard and other parts. Some people hate them because they are plastic, but the tolerances are much higher than the older ones. Ohshoot is right. Get the $200 one and shoot it a lot. Only improvement you will probably like to add is a $30 VQ or Clark hammer for a lighter pull...the factory pull is awful heavy. Iron sights are awful too...can't seem to get low enough. Buy a 10/22 magnum front sight for $6, buy some aftermarket iron sights for $30 or scope it. Every thing else is fluff. If you want to trick it out....that is a whole other industry.

+2 on effectively converting it to a MKII. The MKIII loaded chamber indicator and mag disconnect was a profoundly stupid call on Ruger's behalf.

If you are looking used...the only real choices you will have to make is Full or half lug barrel. Full looks better and it front end heavy like many people enjoy. Half lug is more neutral and many competition shooters like them. I think the new ones are all full lug.

New shape, 100% with box and factory nickel plating could get $600-700 to a collector if there are no signs of being fired. $800 would be a real stretch unless the shipping sleeve had someone important on it or there was something unique about it. Otherwise it is a run of the mill 36. Gunsmith plating, conversions to round from square butt, wear, and tear will all make it work down from there. $300 would be about the rock bottom for worn condition. I know it didn't help much, but without seeing it is hard to tell. Average/good shape with good grips and factory plating could easily hit $500 if the right person came along.

I think that there are still orders from customers for them chambered in .38. They sold 10,000+ to various French police departments over the years. New York police used them for a decade or so as well as some other departments that specify .38 only. I think that many still do. Aside from that....there is no real reason. Aside from a 0.125 difference in chamber cuts they are identical guns. [edit - 0.125 not 0.0125]

Ruger made the gun in the first year with a shorter frame that would only chamber 125 grain 357 magnums. This confused folks and caused problems when handloaders tried to make larger bullets work by seating them deeper in the brass and caused dangerious pressures. So rather than retool the whole gun they chambered them in .38 special for a while until they could design the gun a little longer to handle any normal .357 magnum.

There is always the "Max Max" look. Wrap it up in some duct tape.

Yep...You are right. People who generally break them down every session must really like cleaning. Same goes with a Marlin 60 or a 10/22. If you keep them operating room clean...they look nice, but you are generally wasting your time. Cotton swab the breech face and chamber and that is about all you need to do. I have some that are 55 years old that have been shooting without a hiccup and are tighter than an off the shelf brand new MKIII simply because I don't abuse them by overcleaning.Matter of fact I'll be willing to bet that most guns are broken cleaning than actually shooting.

Yeah...I don't think people actually read that we are talking "detail" not "field" strip. There are many, many guns out there that are simple to field strip, but the detail strip makes a Ruger MKIII look like snapping legos together by comparison. Heck....I can field strip any of the MK guns blindfolded in 30 seconds, but it seemingly takes forever to detail strip a 3rd gen S&W, HK semi auto, or revolver.

Great choice....for the money there is nothing better. Heck - For twice the money there isn't anything that will outshoot it. If it still kicks you too much you can add weight to the stock....1# of lead and/or a mercury recoil arrester will do wonders if you can take the extra pound.

Do they sell Bersa guns? It would be really ironic if they did.

Obviously you guys don't tear apart many revolvers. My vote is old DA colts or S&W....Charter guns are the worst - I just don't bother with them.

Go somewhere else if that is what they said. You don't want an overly opinionated instructor.

No....only difference is that the 11 degree and the stepped cut would protect the crown if you dropped the gun on concrete. Really...that is the only objective difference.

Yeah...no kidding

Nope...the top picture is something only a lathe can do. A 90/45 cut is where you cut it to desired length, file it till it looks straight, use the 90 degree cutter to true it up, and then use the 45 cutter to put a very small 1-2 mm cut right at the crown to ensure it is perfect. Then you lap the 45 with valve grinding compound to eliminate chatter or burrs. You then take sandpaper to roll the sharp edge on the outside of the barrel and are done. It is a very simple and no frills crown....used by most manufacturers.