1gewehr

Everyone should have a .22 pistol. And getting the .22 pistol as your first pistol is an excellent idea. As you stated your goals were to learn to shoot properly and get accustomed to shooting, a .22 is the logical place to start. First, you won't go nuts thinking about sending $.25 to $1 downrange every time you pull the trigger. You can get .22 ammo very inexpensively. Second, the mild recoil and blast of the .22 will keep you from learning to flinch, jerk the trigger, or a host of other bad habits that can be learned from shooting more powerful cartridges. Third, a .22 can do almost everything. It is a great informal plinking and target-shooting pistol. It can destroy small varmints. It can put meat on the table (squirrel, rabbit, etc). And it does make a decent choice for home defense if you don't have a shotgun or larger pistol. The skills and confidence you get from making a 1" hole at 10 yards with your .22 pistol easily transfers to larger calibers later. and you don't 'outgrow' a .22. I'll bet that almost everyone here still has their first .22 pistol. And I'll bet it still goes the the range with them pretty often. I take a .22 pistol to the range every time I go to shoot pistol. And it usually gets more rounds fired than any other pistol, too.

Just as an FYI, have you been to this website? Legal Eagle Productions It seems that you may find some people to contact who can help you in your quest. Just as an FYI, my Father was in the Infantry during Korea. He says a Infantry Sergeants typically were issued an M1 Garand. But in Korea, many 'obtained' an M3A1 Grease Gun or Thompson. The carbine developed a bad reputation during the winter of 1950/51 as it's reliability in extreme winter conditions was poor. Additionally, the bullet did not have enough energy in cold weather to reliably stop Chinese soldiers with heavy clothing and laden with equipment.

Everything is open to negotiation. But I won't even try to negotiate unless I am ready to buy the item or service right then and there. Same thing with negotiating job salary. If you aren't ready to accept the job, don't bother negotiating. You would be amazed how often you can get 10% off simply by saying "I have cash right here, and this is what I am prepared to pay, right now." Doing your homework up front helps a lot. Know what others are selling similar items or services for, and be prepared to walk away. Also, being polite and cheerful pays off. Acting like a know-it-all, or trying to badger the seller is just going to make them less likely to come down in price. The last point is that a lot of times, simply attempting to negotiate tells you what kind of person you are dealing with.

Hogwash. Oil is not made by dinosaurs. That theory has long been discredited. Oil has been found many places where there has never been any possibility of biological material. Oil is made by geo-chemical processes. Oil fields renew themselves over time. There are wells in TN, KY, PA, and TX that were shut down in the '60's that could produce again if the Feds would allow it. The question is whether we are using oil faster than the earth produces it. As for 'green energy', so far it has been a bust. I'm all in favor of the concept. But when it takes more energy to produce a solar panel than that solar panel will ever produce over it's lifespan, then it can hardly be called 'green'. Likewise, electric cars sound neat, but the batteries, plastics (oil product, don't you know) and electronic components all use lots of energy to manufacture. Likewise, the energy used to charge those batteries is mostly generated by burning 'fossil' fuels. Distributing electricity is very wasteful. There is a significant transmission loss the further you get from the power plant. It is much more efficient to actually transport gasoline and power the car directly. There are some extremely efficient gasoline and diesel engines available and being developed. Compared to the very heavy battery packs, this seems to be a much more reasonable way to increase efficiency and lower emissions. In most cases, we could already be using this technology if government regulation would just get out of the way.

I cannot think of a more versatile firearm than a 6" barrel .357 revolver. It will do almost anything you ask of it. And with a good, stiff .357 JHP load, it will easily take deer at moderate ranges (under 100 yards) as long as you are capable of putting the bullet where it belongs.

"The US made the 7.62NATO round longer than the AK round so that we could use their ammo, but they couldn't use ours". Then a few years later, "The Russians made the AK round bigger than the M16 round so that they could use our ammo but we couldn't use theirs." Overheard at the Knob Creek Machinegun Shoot several years ago: "All of these machineguns are illegal. The cops around here don't care. But one of these days all of these people are going to go to jail."

I'd be more inclined to believe it's due to the economic situation. Not as many people are buying NFA items.

I've watched it four times and still can't see the Glock.

DC Earthquake devastation photo: DC Earthquake Devastation - jmckinley's posterous

S&W instituted the model numbers in the 1950's. Yours is a Military & Police model made in the early 1920's. This is the most popular S&W revolver ever made. Strictly from the photo, it appears to be in pretty rough shape. If the bore and chambers are still in decent shape (not rusted), and the action works smoothly, it is still probably worth $150. Here's a brief write-up of this revolver: Smith & Wesson Model 10 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've had good dealings with both Dan (VOW) and Mark (ARS). Both do excellent work. Mark has no interest in chit-chat, but his work speaks for itself. Dan is local which helps.

One of the best bargains out there. Ours are in 9mm and 10mm, with conversions for .38Super, .45acp, and .22. There are two frame sizes, and also a full-size and compact in each size. The smaller frame will handle 9mm, .40S&W, and .22. The larger frame is for longer cartridges like .38Super, 10mm, and .45acp as it has a larger magazine well to accommodate the longer and wider magazines. There is a separate .22 conversion for that frame size. You can use a full-size slide on a compact frame and vice versa. But compact magazines will not work in a full-size frame for obvious reasons. Magazines are made by MecGar and are well-made and reliable. Run about $25 each from EAA when you buy three at a time or more. Sometimes CDNN, Midway, or other places have them on sale. Our Witnesses have been reliable and accurate. The trigger is long in double-action but smooth. In single-action, there is about 1/10th of an inch of creep before a pretty crisp break. You then have to let off that same 1/10th of an inch to reset the trigger. Very smooth and predictable. To me, it's better than a Glock trigger, and the double-action is smoother than my S&W M39, but single-action has longer creep than the M39. My CZ75s are similar but a bit (barely) smoother. That may just be due to the much higher round count of the CZs.

Dan at VOW does good work. Manufacturing: FAL Builds

Rhyming insults. No thanks.

More information and preferably photos are needed for a good number. Some of the questions are: Blue or stainless? Describe the wear and tear. What are the condition of the nipples, chambers, and bore? Tight lockup? Where is the rust? What does it look like under the grips? For me, if the bore is rusted, chambers look grungy, and lockup isn't tight, I'd probably pass. On the other hand, you could probably send it to Ruger and they might fix some of it for free.

Remember, NRA is not 'primarily' a gun rights organization. Their primary purpose is supporting marksmanship. They do an excellent job of that. The NRA-Institute for Legislative Action is the lobbying arm of the NRA. All they do is lobbying. And the reason other organizations exist is because the NRA has a history of compromise. The NRA signed off on EVERY Federal gun control law on the books. In some cases, they helped write the legislation. On the positive side, they have been helpful with some of the recent court cases (Heller & MacDonald). And they got the ten-year sunset provision written into the 1994 AWB. But they have yet to actually get a Federal Gun Control law repealed. And after the ten-year sunset was included on the 1994 AWB, they said "We can live with the Assault Weapons Bill and the Brady Act'. Tennessee Firearms Association is strictly a lobbying and educational group for the state of Tennessee. It got Concealed Carry passed, and has gotten the firearms rules modified to be less confusing. There is still a lot to do, and they are holding the Legislature's feet to the fire. I would recommend membership in NRA as the membership has forced them to be less likely to compromise away rights. Even if they do sometimes end up being an 800lb creampuff, they are still a force to deserve respect. The TFA does excellent work and has the immediate ear of may of our state elected officials. In TN, they are the only effective lobbying group for gun rights. I also belong to Jews for the Protection of Firearms Ownership, simply because they get liberals' panties in a wad! GOA, NAGR, CCRKBA, JPFO, and others exist to keep the NRA honest. Typically, the other groups are 'no-compromise' groups. Pick the ones which most closely match your own beliefs if you feel the NRA isn't being aggressive enough.

Call the Knox County Register of Deeds. They can tell you how to find out whether there are any liens on that property. In any case, I would request a guarantee from both the auctioneer and the property owner that transfer of title would be lien-free.

We split our joint expenses (house, utilities, food, etc). We each have a budget which includes our expenses, savings, maintenance of house and vehicles, clothes, vacations, etc. And we each have a discretionary budget. Mine usually goes towards guns and ammo. We have never had an argument about it. Avoid debt. If you have credit card or vehicle debt, pay it off before buying any more fun stuff. When you don't have that debt hanging over your head, you have a whole lot less to argue about.

Admission tickets can be paid for with a Credit Card. We went Saturday and it was a great time!

EVERY semi-auto .22 is picky about ammo. It's the nature of the beast when you use some of the energy of a low-powered cartridge to operate the action. Add in environmental factors such as dirt, weather, dust, temperature, etc, and you get a firearm that is amazing that they ever work somewhat reliably. If you want an accurate, reliable .22, that will work with the cheapest stuff on the shelf at WallyWorld, get one that is manually-operated. There are a lot of good bolt-actions, as well as pump and lever-actions. An added benefit is that .22 shorts are air-rifle quiet when shot from a rifle. It's fun to reduce the tree-rat population without having the neighbors notice. I've got a pump-action Remington 21 from the 1920's that is still as accurate and reliable as the day it was sold. Good ones can still be found for about $200-250. The Marlin 39 is regarded as the Rolls Royce of lever .22s. Avoid the ones with a cross-bolt safety. Prices are somewhat high at $350-500 for a good used one, but it's a rifle that your grand-kids will pass on to their kids.

WOW. Simply 'wow'. Thank you for posting that. Best smile I've had a ll week.

I have several. I have always appreciated the balance, ergonomics, reliability, and easy maintenance of the design. It's the best point-shooter of any full-power semi-auto rifle. Interestingly, it is a Browning Automatic Rifle action with the gas piston on top of the barrel instead of underneath. John Moses Browning's genius still lives!

Hmm, seems to me that the numbers are on the side of the .357Sig. These are numbers straight from Corbon's website for plain old JHP ammo. It looks to me like the .357Sig has a substantial improvement over the 9mm +P, and a bit of a benefit over .40S&W. It seems to me that a 25% increase in energy over 9mm +P is significant. 9mm 115gr +P JHP 1350fps 466ft/lbs 9mm 125gr +P JHP 1250fps 434ft/lbs .357S 115gr JHP 1500fps 575ft/lbs .357S 125gr JHP 1425fps 564ft/lbs .40S&W 135gr JHP 1325fps 526ft/lbs As far as ammo costs go, when you buy in lots of 10,000rds or more at a time, the difference between .40S&W and .357Sig is minimal. I found quotes for $327/1000 for 9mm JHP +P, $365/1000 for .40 S&W JHP, and $368/1000 for .357S JHP if bought in 10,000rd lots. All of that was from the same US major ammo manufacturer for self-defense ammo. I find it easier to reload a bottleneck pistol cartridge. Maybe that's just me. Lastly, most pistols can be changed to .357Sig from .40S&W with just a barrel (and sometimes recoil spring) change. Penetration is important. Particularly to those who may need to shoot through a car door or windshield. The .45acp and .40S&W have a poor reputation for delivering significant damage after penetrating a windshield or car door.

The shooter has theft and burglary charges on him. He and his family have not been seen since the incident. Stupid people doing stupid things.

Actually, the article is pretty good. Our Founders meant for the populace to have military-grade weapons. The debate has always been about restricting that right and changing the Constitution.