
Jonnin
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Everything posted by Jonnin
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I can see a 223 hole at 200 at 60 power. I do not know if you can get it done for the price you listed. You may have to use a combination of an easy to see target + a cheap optic. Like, use indicator targets + a cheap scope? Also, bright colors show a black hole, so for example a target color of yellow, white, or orange is really easy to see the holes while a black target is nearly impossible. If sunlight or something is behind the target, a black target is better as the light comes thru your holes in that case. But more often than not you want the light color targets.
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follow the money. Rather than think these clowns have some sort of functional crystal ball, I would say someone won a grant and funding to do the project. Governments fund all kinds of stuff for all kinds of reasons. The bulk of it goes to waste, when it comes to planning for the future. We see a possible threat and plan for it, and if nothing happens, its just more wasted money in a sea of wasted money. There are only 2 choices... plan for what you can guess might happen, or play it by ear... Its the crazy prepper-guy scenario on a grand scale, and I am sorta glad they do the prepping.
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Hmm I am not sure. When I had it done it was to send guns in for repairs, and it saved me a ton, and it was thru the place I had bought it at. I do not think they had to log it in, they never "possessed" it. You are right it would be different for a trade.
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a good ffl / dealer can ship it for less, and some will do so --- it rides their slower and cheaper route, everyone wins (they get a lil money, you still ship cheaper, or they get your business later on, youll be back if they are nice) etc.
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Question about lead bullets for magnum loads...
Jonnin replied to JAB's topic in Ammunition and Reloading
I think I am stupidly lucky with this. I have managed to cook up a 44 mag load that is full power and leaves no lead, using a bought bullet (165 grain 44 special slug, actually). It cycles the auto, anyway, so it is at least close to full power, though not "hot". I have yet to make anything leave significant leading behind in anything and I was expecting it in the 44 and 357. Not a lot of help... but all I can say is it is doable with bought bullets. I have even shot lead 380s out of my 357 (not a magnum loadout, a middling 38 special power load) without problems so to get the gas blowby to melt the lead takes some amount of either hot powder or a stouter load or something? I really did not expect that one to work and it did, so it either seals from the explosion or it isnt hot enough to cause the issue. All that to say... give it a try, see what happens. You may not have to do all that much to make it work, I have not yet had to do anything different from what I do with jacketed rounds apart from using the lead bullet powder charge table. -
How to ensure the women do not survive the encounter.... something like this. Some poor woman is going to choose this over a gun, and is going to die for it. Its funny but its no defense.
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Good to know. I was also concerned about the primer popping out, either/or. That is not a lot of pressure, though, I should have realized it.
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sportsman's warehouse up there? they always have some .22 resetting and a few heavier caliber spinner types.
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As far as actually *doing* it.... I would consider "burying" it inside your home as one option. Inside a wall, bricked up in the platform in front of a fireplace, under the floorboards, in the foundation, something. Still preserve and all, just avoid the exposure of outdoors yet keep all but the most determined search from locating it. (Inside, outside, if they have metal detectors and scanners its all over. At least inside, there is enough metal to confuse that somewhat.)
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Can you make MRE type packages with a food saver?
Jonnin replied to gunwhatgun's topic in Survival and Preparedness
cooked meat, dehydrated, sealed does well. Frozen on top of that even better. Dehydrated stuff does not spoil easily. Whatever else you can do on top of that is great. MRE last so long because they are (or were?) radiated to kill all bacteria/etc and sealed to keep everything out, and are preserved in several ways. -
What does a vacuum seal do to ammo? That is the main reason I would prefer inert gas, kind of concerned that you might suck the rounds out of the case with a strong vacuum seal (?).
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Coat it in cosmo or something. seal it in with some of those moisture absorb packs, and if you have the option, replace the air in the container with an inert gas like nitrogen or helium. The pvc pipe is a good start, then put that inside something else and seal that too. Store in the outer container a cleaning kit, some lube, some oil, and so on. Prepare for the worst, have some abrasives in case you need to deal with some rust, and punch/screwdrivers/hex in case you have to tear it down. You also want to store ammo...
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ours is posted everywhere from the website to the entry to the ticket.
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gun for a gun is not so bad at some places. The store lowballs you, so you counter with a lowball on the gun you want to buy. A half decent place will work with you, making a medium profit off both guns rather than gouge for both. But try to sell a gun to a shop for money, that will get you a low price nearly every time --- they have to. Say its just a $500 glock (sticker price). The store buys a new one from their supplier for like $300 or whatever. He can't pay you more for a used one than he pays for a new one, that is illogical. But his offer of $275 seems terrible to you.... Basically your used gun is worth more to some individual than a brand new gun is worth to a dealer.
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If you said it was LNIB I would belive it... nice find, congrats!
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Where to get lead bullets in Knoxville area
Jonnin replied to Spiffy's topic in Ammunition and Reloading
if you cannot find what you want locally, I really like these guys ... http://www.missouribullet.com I was drawn there as one of the few sources of 9x18 but I have used a number of different ones, they are great low cost plinkers and good for high volume stuff like 3 gun / idpa /etc. -
9mm loads for IDPA and steel
Jonnin replied to 2006Blackpearl931's topic in Ammunition and Reloading
are the black bullets pretty clean (not banged up, no casting 'seams', etc) ? Those look interesting .... I may have to try some of their 45s. -
not allowed to purchase is not the same as not allowed to have --- sorta like the age to buy vs parent buys one situations. I say give it to her, the only way the issue should come up is if she has to use it. In which case, you accidentally left it there after spending the night.
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Busse Bushwhacker Mistress passaround
Jonnin replied to Major Kong's topic in Knives, Lights, EDC Gear
I don't want the knife but this the thread title made me want to see the movie. -
Turned off is acceptable to me. But if a teacher sees it in use, the teacher should now own it.
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split the diff & get a 938 ? I would keep the 238 if you paid much for it. Their price has dropped, and a used on is not gonna sell for enough to justify your losses. If I sold mine I would probably lose 200 or more against what I paid. BTW I dislike the .40 --- its not terribly customizable in reloading, and it eats up round count in most carry guns to gain marginal amounts of energy/momentum over a 9.
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9mm loads for IDPA and steel
Jonnin replied to 2006Blackpearl931's topic in Ammunition and Reloading
Start with the starter loads and see where that puts you. Most of those are terribly weak on purpose. You can reduce it from there until it does one of 3 things.... fails to cycle the gun (you can still respring if you want), fails to knock down the steel, or goes haywire with tumbling or instability. Why do you want the heavy bullet, I am curious? -
waste of money, unless for some reason you just want to use the lcp as a target gun. My wife does some cool stuff with her .22 and 22 mag revolvers (2 inch barrels) at 25 yards but she is just showing off. The gun will do a lot with a short barrel and sight radius, but why ?
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9mm loads for IDPA and steel
Jonnin replied to 2006Blackpearl931's topic in Ammunition and Reloading
I would stick to one load for everything. I can and have knocked down the steel IDPA targets with my 9mm loads, which use a cheap lead .380 bullet (90 or 95 grains). Not saying to do the same, just that any bullet weight properly loaded can be very accurate and have sufficient energy to knock down the targets. The ones I make are mild shooting, light recoil rounds. The heavier the bullet, the more they cost -- that was the driving factor behind the light ones I use. If you lighten them up too much, you miss power factor and if you fall much below that you can fail to cycle the gun unless you lightened the recoil springs. Also, not 100% sure but I thought IDPA made you use the same ammo for the whole event. I can't give you specifics, not familiar with your powder nor gun not bullet weights enough to say. But I do recommend you consider using the same load for all. If it meets power factor, it will knock down the targets, supposedly they are designed for that. -
I was sure this was going to be a political topic about upcoming laws or something.