New to Reloading: Which caliber to start out reloading?

[MphsTiger1981]

I just bought a Lee Anniversary press kit last week and I'm waiting for it to be delivered. I bought a Lyman reloading manual and have been reading to get some idea of what I'll need to purchase in order to load safely. I need to purchase my dies and bullets, so the question now is which caliber to attempt to load first? I have 9mm and .38 special handguns. Is either one of these two any easier to load than the other? Suggestions or recommendations? Thanks.

[R_Bert]

Start with the one that cost more to purchase over the counter.

[Sidinman]

Not any difference in loading either of those, they will both use the same primers, so that is a plus. Any straight wall case will be the same process, so which ever of the two you shoot the most is where I would start. Check out the manual and you probably find a powder that will work in both also. I don't reload 9mm but I use Unique in several different calibers myself. Good luck and watch out because reloading can as addicting as shooting. lol

[Westwindmike]

I'd start with the .38 Special. It has to be the easiest cartridge to load for. A lot easier than 9mm.

[Guest canebreaker]

Tiger, I have a Lee ann. kit. Your welcome to come here and load a tray to see what it's like.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

9mm and .357 (basically same as .38 except load and cart length) is all I've loaded. Can't recall either being more or less difficult to learn.

R_Bert had the excellent suggestion of starting with the one that costs the most at the store.

When I started, 9mm was dirt cheap and .357 mag was highway robbery, but at that time you could reload either one for about the same price.

[QuietDan]

Probably .38.

The over the counter cost for 9mm is closer to the reload cost.

Which do you shoot more of? Which would you shoot more of if the ammo cost was under control?

[Guest Lester Weevils]

One advantage of most .357 and .38 loads of which I'm familiar-- They all tend to have the same OAL for most bullet styles. And the bullets with crimp bands, in my experience it is hard to get way out in the woods with OAL just adjusting length to crimp on the crimping groove.

OAL isn't rocket science on 9mm, though some bullets can be a guessing game if one can't find sufficient data for a bullet, or if the data is contradictory in different sources.

Edited February 19, 2012 by Lester Weevils

[Jamie Jackson]

The first cartridges I reloaded (back in the mid 80's) were .38 spls. They have tall straight walls and are easy to start seating the bullets into. Depending on powder type, they hold a relatively small amount of powder, but it's easy to check the cases visually to ensure they all have the same level prior to seating your bullets.

I've used Unique powder in 9mm and .38 for many years. I'm currently using AA#2 and I'm having good results with it.

Unique doesn't burn as fully in short barreled revolvers, so you may see some unburned powder flakes...don't let it concern you.

Unique is a compressed loads in my 9mm's, but there certainly isn't a problem with overcharging the 9mm cases.

W 231 meters / measures more easily (since it a ball powder vs a flaked like Unique) and W 231 works great from 9mm, .38, and 45 acp.

Excellent advice on the crimping grove and OAL.

A good set of dial calipers is a good investment, imho. Does one come with the kit?

[MphsTiger1981]

Thanks guys for the input. Canebreaker I appreciate the offer and may take you up on your offer.

I shoot more 9mm because I have two 9mm guns and only one .38, but the .38 round is more expensive to buy over the counter. It also depends upon what bullets I can find locally. I'd like to find some cheap cast bullets for the .38 special. I have some Bullseye, but I was discouraged by another reloader for buying it, as he claims it is too fast a burn rate powder for a beginning reloader.

The Lee kit comes with a lot of stuff, but lacks the dies and calipers.

[Guest tlondon]

I would go with the .38 spl. I buy my .38/.357 cast bullets and primers from midsouth shooters supply in clarksville.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00051511

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000200014

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690510

[gregintenn]

I have some Bullseye, but I was discouraged by another reloader for buying it, as he claims it is too fast a burn rate powder for a beginning reloader.

His reasoning would be that it takes such a small amount for a correct charge that there is more than enough room left in the case to put in a double or even triple charge. If you are observant enough to refrain from doing that, Bullseye is a great powder for light to midrange target loads.

I would like to make a few suggestions. I would encourage you to purchase a Lee chamfer tool, cutter, and lock stud. Then as you purchase dies, also purchase a case length length guage and shell holder to go with these, so you can trim the cases to length.You'll also soon want an inertia bullet puller, tumbler, and related accessories.

As far as dies go, I actually prefer the Lee dies to their more expensive competition. For straight walled handgun calibers, carbide sizing dies are worth their weight in gold, as they don't require lubricating the cases before sizing.

[Dolomite_supafly]

If your 9mm has been shot out of a Glock then I say 38 special. Sometimes Glocks can create unique problems.

Other than that they are going to be the same process, probably even the same powder. If you want to load cast bullets you could even use the same bullets for each. I have shot hundreds, and probably thousands, of .358 cast bullets in 9mm. Just need to work up safe loads as normal. I would not recommend the same practice with jacketed or palted bullets but cast has never been an issue for me.

I have never had a straight walled case stretch enough to give me issues. I also never champfered the case mouths. But on that note it won't hurt on a rimmed cartridge. On a caliber like 9mm I would be concerned that it might prevent the loaded bullet from headspacing properly. Remember we are talking thousandths of an inch between safe and unsafe. I will say you want just enough of a bell to keep the bullet from shaving. Normally I can't even feel the bell or see it but it is enough to keep bullets from shaving.

With 38 special you can put a decent crimp on the bullet because the bullet headspaces on the rim. On the 9mm it is a little different because it headspaces on the case mouth. You can't put a heavy crimp on 9mm because you need to leave enough of the case mouth for the chamber to headspace on it. I normally say if you can catch your fingernail on the case mouth then there is enough for the round to headspace properly. I crimp the case just enough to remove the bell, no more.

If you want a impromptu cheamber gauge do this. Remove the barrel from your semiauto. And take a loaded cartridge and drop it into the chamber. It should be exactly the same height as the hood on the barrel. Definitely not higher and no more than a few thousandths below. And cellophane is generally .001"-.002" thick which is good. Any more an it is probably into the throat. If it is higher than the hood then try seating the bullet a little deeper. Depending on the bullets ogive it may need to be seated deeper than other types of bullets. If it is still higher than the hood then you need tighten your seater die 1/4 turn and try again, not the bullet seater but the die itself.

If you over crimp 9mm there are a couple of problems. First the bullet might go too far into the chamber for the primer to be hit by the firing pin, this is the best case scenario. Worse case scenario is the case mouth is in the throat and the round is able to fire. The case needs enough room to release the bullet and when the case is in the throat it can't. Because it isn't able to release the bullet as easily this can create a spike in pressures. And this can lead to a case head failure and all those gases coming out the back. This is why it is very important to make sure cartridges without a rim have a pronounced case mouth so the chamber can keep it from going too far into the chamber.

Dolomite

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Yeah W231 and Ramshot ZIP (very similar to W231) both work good for practice loads on both .38/.357 and 9mm. But there are so many good powders and I haven't used many. Went thru quite a bit of W231. It would be easy enough to accicentally over-charge with W231, but maybe there are few powders where it would be impossible to blow up the gun on .38 or .357 if one got careless? The cases are relatively big and most modern powders are pretty potent in small amounts. Just be careful and it won't happen.

With the heavier bullets, you can't make real hot loads with W231 in .38 or 9mm because of pressure problems. But if you don't plan to make hot loads with heavy bullets then it wouldn't matter. With the lighter bullets W231 will safely make some pretty hot rounds.

A contingent of people will brag on about any powder, but it isn't hard to find folks bragging about Blue Dot or Ramshot True Blue for those calibers. I loaded most of my .357's with Blue Dot and it worked fine. Never tried Blue Dot on 9mm but some folks really brag on it for heavier bullets and hotter loads in 9mm. If you think big fireballs are fun, Blue Dot is pretty good for that. Supposedly the Ramshot True Blue isn't so good for making fireballs. Those powders will fill the case a little more than W231/Zip, but it would still be easy to cram too much in there if you get careless.

Probably many powders will work great on both .38 and 9mm. The ones above among them. Maybe the best bet is to just use whatever DLM uses.

[gregintenn]

I have never had a straight walled case stretch enough to give me issues

I find enough variation in case lengths, even among unfired, new brass, that I find trimming to a consistant length gives a more consistant crimp. Probably not necessary, but it sure doesn't hurt.

[Guest canebreaker]

Greg, the ann. kit comes with the chamfer, cutter and lock stud. You save about a dollar by ordering the case length gauge and shell holder for 1 cal. with the kit. From some dealers. Since Tiger wants to do another cal., he'll have to order the case length gauge and shell holder for it. He'll need a #1 shell holder for 38/357 and a #19 shell holder for 9m for the priming tool.

The only thing I see so far is I would have told you to buy the Breech Lock Challenger kit 90030 instead of the 50th Anniversary kit 90050. The difference is you get a box of 11 shell holder for the priming tool in the 90030.

Tiger, I learned the hard way, by myself. PM sent

I welcome anyone that wants a peck at loading single stage.

[gregintenn]

I forgot about the priming tool shellholders. I'd suggest buying the entire set of them, as you'll then have a handy case to keep them all together and organized.

[Guest canebreaker]

There wasn't 2 kits when I got mine, just the 50th kit. Mine is well worn. I may need new parts, but it's working today as good as the day I sat it up. I have a C frame press that has seen as much use too. I was loading a K per week. So I know it will do the job.

[Patton]

I just got my Anniversary kit. I'm pretty pleased with everything. The Scale may be the disappointing part but I new better than to expect a lot from the primer tool. I was going to gat a Lee Automatic Primer but they were out. I just can't seem to get the scale perfectly balnaced to even start with but I think it's close enough. I plan on getting a full set of powder dippers to help. I' m only set up for 38spl at this point and my cost looks to be around $7.25/per 50 so I don't know that 9mm would be much worth it for me. These prices are based on buying everything off the shelf at Sportsmans.

[MphsTiger1981]

I just got my Anniversary kit. I'm pretty pleased with everything. The Scale may be the disappointing part but I new better than to expect a lot from the primer tool. I was going to gat a Lee Automatic Primer but they were out. I just can't seem to get the scale perfectly balnaced to even start with but I think it's close enough. I plan on getting a full set of powder dippers to help. I' m only set up for 38spl at this point and my cost looks to be around $7.25/per 50 so I don't know that 9mm would be much worth it for me. These prices are based on buying everything off the shelf at Sportsmans.

Thanks Patton. Your overall review mirrors everything I've heard about the Anniversary Kit thus far. The primer tool and the scale seem to be the weak links and will be the first items I know I'll want to replace. If I can get the costs of the .38s to $7.50 per 50 that would be about half of what I'm paying locally for reloads, and even more savings from the factory loads which are priced around $17.95 for 50. I also think the hobby itself will give me something productive to do with my time besides watch TV and surf the interwebz.

[SonnyCrockett]

reload what calibers you shoot most,forget costs

9MM,45,40,357 I reload

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I just got my Anniversary kit. I'm pretty pleased with everything. The Scale may be the disappointing part but I new better than to expect a lot from the primer tool. I was going to gat a Lee Automatic Primer but they were out. I just can't seem to get the scale perfectly balnaced to even start with but I think it's close enough. I plan on getting a full set of powder dippers to help. I' m only set up for 38spl at this point and my cost looks to be around $7.25/per 50 so I don't know that 9mm would be much worth it for me. These prices are based on buying everything off the shelf at Sportsmans.

Ordering components would most likely help, but they would have to be ordered in some quantity. Would be "cheaper over the long haul but expensive to make the order". I usually buy primers local retail. Have sometimes ordered powder but usually bought powder local retail.

Powder or primer prices can be lower by mail order but they charge hazmat fees. One must order a big enough batch to dilute the hazmat fee sufficiently to save money. Local stores and gun show sellers surely have to pad their retail prices with hazmat fees. Cost of doing business. One might expect dealers to order in large enough quantities to significantly dilute the fees.

It seems easy to order bullets cheaper than typical local retail prices, even considering that shipping can be expensive on big heavy boxes of lead. In my experience the bullet cost is significantly greater per round than the price of primer + powder combined. So even if you buy powder and primers locally, money is potentially saved ordering large boxes of bullets.

Sometimes local people band together and order mass quantities in order to titrate the hazmat and shipping fees. Maybe our "usual suspects" in the chatt area could get together and make a huge order of cheap components? Make an order large enough to arm a small third-world nation?

Edited February 20, 2012 by Lester Weevils

[Jonnin]

Thanks guys for the input. Canebreaker I appreciate the offer and may take you up on your offer.

I shoot more 9mm because I have two 9mm guns and only one .38, but the .38 round is more expensive to buy over the counter. It also depends upon what bullets I can find locally. I'd like to find some cheap cast bullets for the .38 special. I have some Bullseye, but I was discouraged by another reloader for buying it, as he claims it is too fast a burn rate powder for a beginning reloader.

The Lee kit comes with a lot of stuff, but lacks the dies and calipers.

I think you can use the same bullets for both guns. Someone will correct me if I am wrong For both I have not found a better deal than these....

http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=156&category=5&secondary=9&keywords=

Edited February 20, 2012 by Jonnin

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I think you can use the same bullets for both guns. Someone will correct me if I am wrong

Have wondered about that. Lead 9mm is often 0.356, and jacketed .38/.357 is 0.357, and jacketed 9mm is 0.355.

Have googled on it in the past, with prevailing opinion that the 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch can in some cases be dangerous. Depends on the actual dimensions of individual 9mm chambers and barrels. According to internet opinion anyway.

Dunno if a person could "save money without wasting excessive personal labor" by buying a bullet resizing setup, stocking crazy large quantities of 0.357 or 0.358 bullets, and resizing to 0.355 whatever one wants to load in 9mm? Dunno one way or t'other if that would be feasible or practical.

Edited February 20, 2012 by Lester Weevils

[Guest canebreaker]

While your checking bullets online for an order check this out.

1 box of 500 bullets will cost you 28.00 to 37.00. Plus, let's say 15.00 for shipping. Go back.

Click that box, change it to 2 boxes, same price for the bullets, same price for shipping? Ah, you've saved a bit.

Click it again, 3 boxes, same price for the bullets. Does the shipping change yet? More savings if it don't.

Keep adding till it changes. Keep a ledger. 1 box will cost me this much online. 1 box will cost me this much at the store, add the tax in there.

2 boxes, 3 boxes and so on. If you have to buy, buy as cheap as you can.

I pour my own bullets, so I figure it cost me about 6.00 per 100. I don't count labor or the cost of equipment since it has some age to it.

I did get to the point of having to buy some bullets. I figure those cost about 11.00 per 100.

Friendswoodbullets.com is the online site I use.

I use Midsouth shooters supplies, Wideners, and Natchez a lot.

My midsouth brothers and sisters, I'm about 10 miles south of the stateline, just off I-55. Save the tax money and have it shipped here. If you find a TN dealer with a good price. PM me for the address. Include your address and phone number with the PM. I'll call when it gets here and you pick up.

I'll be at Pickwick the weekend of March 24th, I plan to be fishing, but will have your package for 4.00. I will be in Chattanooga, harrison bay camp ground the weekend of April 28. I'll have your package for 6.00. If that is worth it to you.