molonlabetn

I would expect fairgrounds, civic centers, shelters and national guard bases to quickly become refugee camps... especially those near interstates or airports; and for hospitals to be quickly overwhelmed. Those will be the places to avoid, unless one has no independant survival plan, or needs serious medical attention. The biggest issue would be clean water, which even if I didn't already have plenty treated and stored, and a way to purify more, wouldn't be insurmountable just considering the vast number of water heaters in the abandoned homes which would most likely still contain potable water. Most everything else could be easily scrounged for weeks, knowing where to look, before being forced to break into my own supplies. Heck, I even have enough beer and jerky to last over a month... I'm more worried about the stuff that ya can't plan for or fight off. So, in summary... irregardless of the situation, I'll stay away any action or place which promotes a 'victim' mentality. It'll just be a matter of being observant and adaptable to the situation, so I'm not going to get all wrapped up in any specific scenario or plan of action, since plans generally get blown out the window when reality hits. I just know that I have anything I may need to survive a realistic social disruption long enough to adapt to it... the most important survival tool we all have is a brain.

I ordered a case of buckshot shells from them not too long ago, I have no complaints regarding their prices or shipping times.

Sales tax makes more sense than income tax... I welcome it. Overall, we spend less here on taxes than most other states, all things considered.

one year I hung a ton of new brass casings on the tree... I'm looking for the picture... 'twas badass

I break mine out every year... had them forever

I haven't been to them all... but: Favorite: Hero Gear Least: Specialty Arms

Slamming the slide shut on an inserted cartridge forces the extractor to snap over the case rim (instead of sliding under it, as when fed from the magazine), and can cause it to break (cracked/mangled claw, or broken pivot pin or spring)... on top of the risk that your slide may not completely close, or worse, the cartridge not be seated, and some portion of the slide contact the primer (BOOM). Always feed from the magazine, and try to only feed each cartridge one or two times... some calibers are more susceptible to bullet setback than others... and some are less forgiving of it (such as high-pressure calibers, .40s&w and .357sig being most notable).

You can legally buy the uppers seperately... for instance if you were going to create an AR15 'pistol' (without a stock attached, on a registered pistol lower). But to buy a complete gun with <16" barrel, or to install a <16" upper on a rifle lower, you must apply for a tax stamp from the BATFE, to create a registered Short-Barreled Rifle. If you have a registered machine-gun lower, you can install any length barrel you like.

Yes... everyone should switch to shooting .40s&w. ...that way there will be more 9mm and .45 ammo for me

Kel-tec P3-AT... Hated the trigger.

Caliber is an initial concern, just because I prefer to choose a gun in a caliber I already shoot... but mainly I go by the grip feel and how naturally it points. Manual of arms is important, but only to the point that the controls are well placed for my hand... everything beyond that is just practice. Size is the next concern... I don't like uber-small micro or sub compact pistols, since I'd rather make the extra effort to conceal a midsize gun which I am confident that I can shoot the heck out of, than a less powerful, less accurate gun which will run dry quick and be slower to reload.

Point shooting isn't pulling the trigger with your middle finger... Here is the 'definition', if you care to read it: Point shooting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia but the premise is to use your instinctive hand-eye coordination to engage close targets without using the sights. And yes, it does work. Pulling the trigger with the middle finger is a good way to push the gun off-target while shooting quickly, and reduce accuracy. Whatever floats your boat though, but there are no real advantages... since you lose a finger on the grip of the gun to actually control it in a constructive manner. I've tried it plenty (we had this discussion a couple years ago I believe), so I'm not just talking out of my donkey.

Shotgun: Benelli M1 Rifle: Tantal AK74 Pistol: Ruger .22, and Beretta 92F

I'm in.

H&K: "...because you suck, and we hate you"

I've got enough to cover my neck of the woods pretty well... but realistically, if it's bad enough to need more than a couple hundred rounds, no amount would be enough.

I have a S&W 940... love it.

The R9 and PM9 are the only two really feasible to pocket carry... The PF-9 is a maybe.

Wooohoo! The Ice-Age is over

I was there recently... I didn't see any thing except some circle-slash stickers, but I didn't inspect any entrances other than the one I used. There was no, search/pat-down/metal-detector either.

Such things usually depend more on the guns themselves than the caliber... but properly built .45s do tend to have heavier slides and soak up the lower-pressure push of the large slug with less violence than a lighter slide does with a high pressure .40 round... but firing a .40 1911 next to a .45 1911 both using 180-185gr bullets will truly tell the tale, and they are almost identical in my experience. I know with my own guns that my huge FNP-45 (slide itself weighs almost 2lb), is a creampuff to shoot, even with +p cartridges... while the Glock or Springfield 9mm are more snappy, and the 9mm j-frame revolver is almost painful (seriously, +p+ loads are akin to lighting off stout .357mags). In your situation though... poly-framed Taurus .45s don't have great recoil characteristics. I once owned a PT-145 myself, and it did not have a good slide-weight/recoil-spring balance... which did make it pretty snappy combined with the sucky trigger, and it was not a precision instrument at all. Try a 1911 in .45acp (or any caliber)... you'll get hooked.

Probably between the Glock and S&W J-frame.

Might help with cooling... but I'm sure the intention is for the appearance.

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