Lowpower

Next question!  Is flint locally available in the US? Like in some local gravel pits? Maybe AR, MS , TN KY? If I have to I can fly somewhere but I'd prefer to drive. If there's a place where you can prospect and take what you find then I'll bring a box back and pass some around.

X2 on both, guys. Correct me if I'm wrong but i wasn't really aware I would need a flint knapping hammer but may need a a deer antler to sharpen/reshape the flints from time to time. I've taken my fair share of deer in the past 40 years or so but stopped way back when i sitting out in a the edge of a field at daylight with the temps hovering around 28 degrees and I said to myself, "Self, what the heck are you doing sitting out here freezing yer buns off at the crack of misery, waiting on Mr. Muley c vc to make his appearance when you could be home in a nice warm bed with yer wife?" That was enough of that. Then my job took me out to Southern Kalifornia for a few years and they had these lil, itty bitty deer. Shoot one and as yer cleaning him all the ticks and fleas jump off him onto you. Now that I'm older I prefer to watch them wonder around my kids backyard. Ok, enough of the rambling. I have a small spike rack I got from my neighbor who hunted hearer locally for years and kept some in a box. I made a breech hole pick out of one of the spikes and will use the larger one for knapping. [URL=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/ant1_zps44e5d760.jpeg.html][/URL][URL=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/ant2_zpsc9b147ff.jpeg.html][/URL] I still need to drill and put a leash on the knapping antler. Ok then, need pics! What is a knapping hammer supposed to look like? And I have left caps at home before, too! That's why I always take more than one rifle. Since I will probably leave something behind if I bring enough stuff to shoot I just might have brought the right combo of ammo and guns that I will actually get to shoot. One thing about my BP rifles is I stuff everything in a big orange ammo box and i've shown on page one. I can see if I stuck the orange box in the truck then all I have to remember is ole betsy! Thanks

Dave,   I picked up a couple of 5/8 X 1/2 English flints from the Sportsmans Warehouse in MS and they are a good fit so I bought 5 ea.  5/8 X 1/2 English flints from Track of the Wolf. They get here tomorrow morning in the mail. I'd like to talk more about powders. I am an old user of Goex from around the early '70's which I was shooting a lot of BP pistols. I got away from it for a while and used it again for a while when I got my first Hawkins. I shoot with buddy;s who had transitioned to Trip 7 due it's much easier to clean up. But Trip 7 really isn't BP but a substitute using modern day chemicals to fabricate it. I don't even thinks it's carbon based.   As I had mentioned above I've been using Trip 7 forever in my Hawkins Cap-n-ball. When I got my Flintlock over a week ago now I still loaded FFG of Trip 7 in that. We discussed maybe going to FFFG, like you use, to improve main charge ignition speed.  Question, are you using Goex or Swiss BP in your FL? I understand Trip7 runs hotter that traditional black powder and even a bit hotter as you shrink the granule sizes.  I picked up a lb of Trip 7 FFFG for the main charge and a lb of Goex FFFFG to use for the pan. I do load by volume which makes me wonder what the difference in the powders will be. As in 30 gr of Trip 7 may be the equivalent of 40-45 gr of Goex? And since I'm loading by volume is there much difference between FFG AND FFFG?   Our heat index has been 105-110 for the past 5 days so I haven't been out there soaking up the sun but plan on being back out on Saturday morning. Pics and range report will follow the session.   Edited to add: I also picked up a frizzen stall from Track of the Wolf (ToW) since they had them on sale for a few bucks.   Thanks, Bob

Interesting question...   Goex is real BP and is readily available here in the U.S. There are other brands but places like Bass Pro normally carry Goex. Real BP is explosive and sold as such. When you go into Bass Pro you have to ask for it at the gun counter.    The differences in the powder is broken down in to how fine the actual granules are, the less number of F's the courser.   Goex Cannon (very big granules) Goex Musket Fg Goex Rifle FFG Goex Pistol FFFG Goex  Flintlock Pan Powder FFFG (very fine, almost like powder).   Most shooters use FFG in their Cap-n-Ball style rifles. Some shooters use FFFG n the Flint Locks as it may speed up ignition. (Got that from Dave S and will be shooting it this weekend). Most revolver (read 6-gun) shooters use FFFG  with their cap-n-balls. The pan power, FFFG, is for Flintlocks and is fine enough to pour 1-3 gr into the pan to provide ignition to the main charge.   Triple 7 and Pyrodex substitutes run a lil bit hotter than Goex.    I use Triple 7 in my rifles because I find them easier to clean.  It doesn't smoke as much and the recoil seems to be a bit less than traditional black power.  I'd make sure you can use it in brass cannon.  I'd check with the cannon manufacturer.   Edited to add: it does't smoke as much because approx 50% of BP is not burned in the barrel but as it exits behind the bullet.   That's the white smoke you see.   In fact, most of the cannons I see around our range are made of steel, either blued, but mostly stainless. Not brass.    Lp

OK guys now don;t give the crazys a reason to target Memphis. For all we know there's one reading this....   <starts looking over shoulder>

For me a HCP is for the worst case scenario...mandatory confiscation for people who don't have a HCP. It's the only reason I have one and personally, I don't believe I should  need on.   It's not like I'm paranoid or anything but there's nothing the left won't try.   :D   I'd worry about some terrorist group setting off an A-Bomb in Memphis but they know people'd say Memphis? Wheres's that?  No media impact for those crazy's so I know I'm safe here. 

The next question might be would you want your beautiful pistol that you had to use in defense of your life to be taken by LEO and not seen again for a very long time until the matter is settled or is a privately/gun show bought pistol that works fine be a better choice? You will have it confiscated to be checked or impounded.   Just thinking out loud....

I shoot a lot of steel and I'd consider that a might close with jacketed/FMJ pills. The bullets hitting the steel creates cupping which  is the spot where bullets can ricochet right back at you.You will see some bending and cupping but if you shoot it out to 100 yds you should be fine. Lead bullets are a different story.They usually flatten out on the steel.

Hehe, I hope you get enough folks to attend!     You might cheek with your city or schools to get an auditorium for the class. Even your Parks and Recreation may have some venue that will let you get use. 

Will look forward to see'n you lead the band in the parade.  :D         j/k :)

The news showed local law enforcement is telling the peaceful demonstrators to do it all day long but go home in the evening and  they'd take care of the looters/instigators who are trying to ruin their city when they come out at night.    This could be an interesting night.

Me like...alot! Doh!   I spend more time pulling leading out of my Model 29 than I do shooting the darn thing. I even enlist the help of a buddy. He holds the gun while I pull the brass mesh through the barrel AND I usually have to run 203 new mesh patches down the barrel before it's clean. I always thought it was a necessary  evil but I plan to try out 500 of these bullets!   Thanks for the info!   Lp...Doh!

Ya know, I don't think Ive ever used the safety on my jewell at the range. Either the bolt is open if I'm not firing or the bolt  is out when we clear the line. If the bolt is closed then I'm in the scope and getting ready to shoot.    Lp

And the discount code is?    :D

I always cleaned my triggers with lighter fluid and I'm very touchy about using any oils that can accumulate dirt in the assembly.   My 6.5-06 is a 700 but I checked the Rem Website and my number is not in the recall. I plan on changing my trigger assay out as I like a  6-8 oz trigger for target shooting.  Since I have a tendency to run with 700's I can swap out the Jewell I get with the original if I decide to  sell this long action rifle for a smaller one.   I didn't see the links for them so here they are.   http://www.remington.com/pages/news-and-resources/safety-center/safety-warning-recall-notice-Remington-model700-modelseven.aspx http://www.remington.com/pages/news-and-resources/press-releases/2014/firearms/remington%20arms%20announces%20voluntary%20product%20recall.aspx   This one is the actually page where you just type in your serial number and it immediately tells you if your rifle is in the recall. http://xmprecall.remington.com   Hope this helps.  Lp

I had a similar but unrelated gun type situation a couple of months ago hearer is Bartlett.   I had pulled up behind another guy at a stop sign. He had pulled almost half way out into the  first lane of a 3 lane road. He waited on a a few cars to go by the pulled out. I was already at the  stop sign so I didn't have to pull up. I just looked both ways and pulled out. Well, a quarter mile down the road this cop comes up behind me and pulls me over.  I asked what the problem was and he said I never stopped at the stop sign. I told him that I had sat at the stop sign for like 20-30  seconds waiting for the guy that was stuck out in the road to pull out and away. He then said he actually couldn't see me at the sign but that I had pulled out so close behind the other guy that it appeared I didn't have time to stop. He went on to say since he hadn't seen it there was nothing he would do. He suggested I wait a bit longer before pulling out and bid me to go on my way. I didn;t have the heart to tell him if he wants to  catch people not stopping to park in a place where he could see it happen. However, I think he learned from that.   It's refreshing to see a young, honest cop that  actually cares about doing his job the right way. Congrats to him.   Lp 

I agree with you, Dave. After a couple of shots we had a no spark and I noticed the flint had moved back. Since I had a fully charged rifle I grabbed a screw driver and pushed the flint up enough to move it back to where it just touches the frizzen in the safe position. I locked it down right there and  we were able to clear the rifle.   I had heard you can flip the flints upside down then flip them around and start again but this was my first firings so I figured it was set up ok.  It was ok but not really correct nor was it tight enough.   Do you still think the 3/4 inch flint is the correct one? You rifle appears to have the same flint vice as mine, albeit a different brand.   I'm gonna take a ride over to Bass Pro to see what they may have in flints.    Thanks for the help. Lp

OK, I got some pics... The 1st is my kit, the 2nd includes the range box it all fits in. The 3rd shows the flint, the 4th shows a side view, close up of the flint. The last is my ram rod ball I forgot to include in the kit pic. The ball is around $1.50 and I just drilled a hole in the bottom. [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl101_zpsb5fb1523.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl102_zps22b574f7.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl104_zps881a7cad.jpeg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl105_zps59e505d1.jpg.html][/URL][url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/fl106_zps5d3cee6a.jpg.html][/URL] You can see my drop tube in the kit pics. I also found out on round #3 the flint can move. When it was touching the frizzen in the safe position i always had a spark. it then moved back until it was approx an 1/8 inch away from the frizzen in the same safe position. I broke out the screw driver and reset it. I was almost afraid to tighten it down too much else I'd break the flint. Lp

I agree on the Duck... I only shoot what i plan to eat. Fortunately, my bud is a duck hunter and he will donate some tail feathers to me. Im going to try out 3fg. I did notice a delay shooting which i'd like to speed up. I'm gonna go take picks now I can show you where the flint is currently sitting on the rifle ager around 5 shots. Lp

Dave,   Since I will be silhouette shooting with this rifle for now I'm using just water on my patches. The powder only stays in the rifle for a minute or two so the power doesn't really get wet.  I take a small cup and stick the patch in it until its soaked. Then I squeeze all the excess water out of the patch with my fingers. I lay it up on the muzzle then stick a ball on top of it and give it a light wack with my rubber mallet. I then use the my old .45 pistol rod to start it down a foot and finish with the original ramrod with a wooded ball on top. Im only 30 seconds away from shooting at that point and I've never had a misfire yet. (knock on wood).     I have always swabbed between shots on the range and don't think I'm going to stop anytime soon.   My cap lock barrel is only 29 inches but the flintlock is around 35 inches so my loading tube still has 5-6 inches to drop powder into the barrel. I really strive to get the powder down by the breech where it belongs without having any hang up in the bore while its being put in. I always use my rubber mallet to tap around the breech to ensure the powder is all the way into the breech.  You mentioned you are using 3fg. Is that meant to ensure the powder does make it down into the breech since the granuals are smaller. I think I have a pound of it laying around so I can try it, that's what you're doing.   I've been using the trip 7 substitute for a long time. Imho it burns nice and clean compared to goex. I have a friend who has been using goex forever but Bass Pro ran out for a month and  he used up all his powder. He got some trip 7 and worked up his load and hasn't looked back even though prior to that he said he'd never use the trip 7. Go figure.... The 4fg I picked up the other day was goex but I figure a flash in the pan won't make too much of a mess.    I can post pics of my gear. Other than my powder drop tube everything fits in my range box. If I go hunting I'll transfer what I need to an old fashioned BP bag. I'll have to look for one to use. I also asked a buddy to yank a couple of tail feathers when he goes duck hunting. I don't eat ducks so won't shoot them. Until then I'll use my cap lock cleaning wire to  keep the breech clear.   More importantly I need to determine the size of the flints my rifle uses. The one that's one there appears too small (lengthwise). I'll take a pic of what's on there and you can  maybe help there... It's the one that came on the rifle and the only one I have so I think it will become the determining factor of just how much shooting I can do with this rifle. I can pour my own balls and powder is plentiful around here.    I like your beeswax mix. I make up something like it for my .45-100, 500 gr bullets for my Sharps.   To recap: Duck feathers work ok? Flint size and where can I get them? 2fg or 3g for main charge?   Thanks Lp

Dave,   I sot .490 balls in the FL using pillow ticking that was 3x washed for softening. I don't remember what weight/thickness the ticking is. I've been using the blue stripped ticking in my Hawkins for years now with a .495 ball. I gotta run out for a bit but will pm you.   Thanks Lp 

Muahahahaha!   The bad news is that people read what he writes....

Let's see if this works...   http://vid587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/ren1795/IMG_1006_zpsbef837f6.mp4   It worked. Here's one of my bud and his delayed action BOOM!   http://vid587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/ren1795/IMG_1007_zps46f5d38f.mp4

Thanks, Dave.    Well, I'm home and had some start up issues;   I ran a rod down it it ensure it was nice and clean with nothing in the barrel...rust, etc. I found out the rifle had never been fired.  The bore was pristine. The frizzen pan looked like it never had powder on (in?) it.   Next I loaded the rifle like I would my cap lock. I even ran a target load of 35 gr of trip7 FFG. I wet the patch and stuffed a ball on top and started it with my cap n ball starter then rammed the ball home. Two firm taps and I was ready to prime it.   I take it over to the firing line and my buddy hands me this small horn which he says has FFFFG in it. So, I start to dump a lil in the cup and the stuff that comes out has to be FFG.  LOL!  Fortunately, I had my lil frizzen primer that I carry just in case I get stupid and stuff a ball down the barrel of my  cap lock with out sticking in powder. I pressed a charge an dropped it into the cup and cocked it.   The first shot out of the rifle went.bang then an almost immediate boom! Well, it shot. After I got over the flinching from the flash I figured I'd give it another go.  The second shot pocked the 9 ring at 9 o'clock.  It went downhill from there. Oh, not the gun. All my buddy's that were there wanted to shoot.   They got in line and away we went. Fun was had by all but rounds were all over the chart and I ran out of FFFFG.    Lessons learned:     Range testing should be done alone.   :) Make sure I have everything I need and bring it myself.  When my flint moves back from firing I will not get the spark needed to ignite the main charge.  I'm gonna need more flints.   The good news:   It will shoot. I performed the same rituals as I've always done with my cap locks for target shooting. I ran a patch down it between shots.  I ran my cap pick through the breech channel to ensure it was clear after every swab. I gave it a full cleaning once finished so I don't have to put it away wet.  I stopped by Bass Pro and they have FFFFG so I bought a pound but I still have to figure out  what size and type and where to get flints. My buddy said he had extra horns and gave me a powder and primer horn. Hoooya!   I will go out and perform a real check in the next couple of days and post it.    I got movies on my iPhone but have no idea how to post them here.