Lowpower

Only place I know of that doesn't sell ammo anymore is k-mart on austin peay

So much for the 3rd edition of the S&W....

Kinda like this? [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/s1111_zps3171420c.jpg.html][/URL] [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/s2222_zps9a6cb549.jpg.html][/URL] Her's is an .38 Military and Police Model of 1905. They were built between 1906 and 1909. During that time they made minor internal changes to the pistol which they named a 1st change or 2nd change. Unless she's a collector it's not worth trying to figure out which was which as they ranged within the same serial numbers. The serial number range was around 73k to 146k. Mine shown is a 4th change pistol of the same type, a 1905, built between 1915-1942. Mines a 4 inch and her's is a 6 inch. Opps, value...it's very subjective. Unless it has lots bluing and is really nice then not too much but somewhere out in the world is someone that might just have to have that pistol...

I will not go quietly into the darkness....

Yes, it does. some folks shorten the pin and use the second notch. Under fast firing circumstances the pin can push itself out in recoil and lock up the gun. I have never had that issue and I shoot fast.    And don't worry if you happen to stick the pin in too far the gun will not fire. If it fails to fire that's the first check. Pull the pins out to the second notch and go to town. Folks that have had the pin back out went to Colt pins. They don't back out and fit fine.   I stuck the rifle up on Armslist. I'll see how it goes there since there's lots of local boys that like that type of rifle. 

One cal for all is a great idea. means only reloading for same....

the 1873...what cal? .45? If so, it holds 8 rounds since it's a carbine?   I need 10 rounds and I wish they had a little bit more strength. If you look at your action on the 1873 it has a small bolt which is much weaker than the 1892. They're fine out to 100 yds but fall off a bit when you start stretching it out. They sure are fine, short stroked when yer trying to knock out 10 rounds in  5 seconds or less.

Speaking of lever guns...whacha got? I went crazy the other day and traded my 1957 Anshutz Hunter .22 with double set triggers for this.... [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/l9_zpsd0a99716.jpg.html][/URL] It's an 1892 in .45 Colt. After getting it the guy god me he bought it new and had never fired it. I had planned on using it for 200 yds shoots since this model had the strong action but after thinking it over I'm going to sell it since it is a collector rifle. I figured I can get another 1892 that's a shooter and let some collector buy it before someone calls sacrilige to shoot it. If I don't sell it then i can shoot it feeling free of all the folks calling FOUL! :D It will go up on here and arms list tonight after i get some more pics. I take lousy pics... It's one of those America Remembers Rifle. http://www.americaremembers.com/product/lawmen-outlaws-of-the-wild-west-tribute-rifle/ lp

jeff43 you are not wrong but that safety is lawyer speak for, "it's gotta have it or you will be sued" but they break fairly easy. If the hammer slams forward on it it will break. A lot of the cowboy guys remove them. I left mine in and figured I'd just be careful not to drop the hammer on it. I probably still have my original hammer springs laying around here somewhere. I'm also pretty sure they are comparable between the .357 and .45 as the trigger assembly is the same. Just the barrel and cylinder are different sizes, I have a matched pair of open 1860's in .45 Scholfield. I had called Wolfe and asked them if they sold spring kits for the open tops. They said they only sold Cattleman spring kits. I took my Cattleman and 1860 apart and compared the hammer springs. They were exactly the same springs. I have no idea why they say they don't carry them except maybe the other springs don't work. I plan to slick up the pair of 1860's this summer since they're definitely a lil slower than the Cattleman. The open tops looks like this old gun I sold. This was the same but in .38/357. I wanted the larger caliber. ***NOTE: Edited to clarify what I said above....I would suggest you DO NOT rely on that 1st click safety. As I originally said I rest my hammer on an empty chamber and IMHO anytime I see a pin that can stick into the chamber and onto a primer then I treat that gun like it has no safety.*** [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/u1_zps40b22429.jpg.html][/URL] [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/u2_zps7c4e4498.jpg.html][/URL]

A light trigger should not be an issue on a SA Cowboy gun. They're meant to be light and crisp on the break. Since you have to manually draw back the hammer to cock and  shoot the gun the only time you have to worry about a light trigger is when you want to shoot it and then you did everything to do just that.    Three other things I forgot to mention if yer new to SA Cowboy guns.  1)  Cattlemen have no blocker bars. Always load 5 and leave the hammer on the empty cylinder. The load sequence is; load one, skip one, load the other 4, fully cock and lower the hammer on the empty chamber. 2)  Never dry fire a Cowboy gun with a protruding firing pin. They can break. 3) If you push the cylinder pin in too far it will prevent the gun from firing as it blocks the hammer from falling all the way.   Lp.

Oops almost forgot and its kinda important.  When you look at how to take your pistol apart on that slicking up a Cattleman website make sure when you get to the part about pulling the the cylinder hand spring you take it slow. One second the spring is there the next  it's in the neighbors back yard and it's an itty bitty spring. It's not that the spring will launch itself next door but it is so small if you don't know it's there then for all practical purposes it's in the next County. The new Cattle man uses this spring while the older ones had a hand spring like the  Colt's.   I lost my spring and made a new one out of an ink pen. I just took it and wound it tight so it was smaller and would fit nicely.  I then cut it to my liking which was to ensure positive lockup each time the hand rotates the cylinder. I cut it so it was a little bit lighter and  it spins like a Colt now.   NOTE: this is a last resort if you lose that dang hand spring. Stick with what you got since you like everything a  lil bit firmer. 

The trigger pull spring is located under the trigger housing. It's made of flat spring steel and is held in place by a small screw. While I've never heard of anyone trying to make the trigger pull heavier (I bought a lighter spring so I could run it faster) you can check with Wolfe Springs to see if they might have a heavy spring kit. You can also take a look at this nice website about slick in up a Cattleman.... http://www.gunblast.com/JimTaylor_Uberti.htm MInes a .45 and it went from brand new two yeas ago to around 1894 or so :).... [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/u1_zps15d7fdbe.jpg.html][/URL] [url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/u2_zpsd499d37b.jpg.html][/URL] Ain't that a nice ole gun? Now show us yours! :)

After I bought my pickup all I listened to was Country. Weird, huh?  :D

Memphis BBQ on Goodman Road which is 10 min south on I-55 just over the State Line. Best BBQ in the area.   There T-shirt says it all...   Nice Racks Beautiful Butts and  Smoking Hot Legs

So sorry to hear. The good news is dog's are able to adjust to challenges.    I have 4 of my own. 3 are rescues and 1 go as a pup. One of the rescues is blind in one eye, half deaf and he gets around fine.    Hopefully yours will too.   Lp

what 79 said and to add....no fired primers in the brass while you do it.

David,   You going to be in Germantown this weekend?   The real question is do you have any Vihtavuori 570?   Thanks Lp

What branch of service? If Army, take a look at this Uberti, Remington Old Army although most of us started with the Ruger Old Army. He can even  convert his Ruger Old Army to a modern day .45LC with a cylinder kit so he has the best of both worlds.   While I'm not sure of prices anymore here's a couple on links...   Uberti      http://www.ubertireplicas.com/interno.php?idpaginaprincipale=5&idpagina=23&idarticolo=17   Ruger      http://www.chuckhawks.com/ruger_old_army_syn.htm   Ruger Conv Kit     http://www.kirstkonverter.com/shopcontent.asp?type=rugeroldarmy   Hope this helps

Ain't nothin like a Browning pistol....

Sure would be nice if they actually put some useful info on them see'n as how we taxpayers paid a lot for them.

Caliber/bullet size dictates powered type even though there's lots out there.    I can get buy with W231 for just about anything that starts with a .4 or 9mm.   You get lots rounds out of a lb of powder with it.   Try here and just click thru to your caliber and look at all the loads....   http://www.hodgdonreloading.com

I shoot both well +1. I reload everything so I prefer .308 for lots shooting since I only use 43.1 gr vice 46.3 with the same bullet at 175 gr.  I also shoot a 6.5-06 and that runs a bit over 50 gr in the case. I worked up the 6.5 so I wouldn't wear out my barrel in the .308 but I'm paying for it by using lots more powder. lp

Thot they already did do that if you checked yourself in for some sort of depression...like some folks going through a  divorce. Anyone else know?

I'm special...I don't think I'm half as good as I really am.  :D   All kidding aside I went into a pawn shop the other day and saw some used thing for sale that I had just  seen at a store. It was marked up like 50% more than it sold in the store.    I asked him abut it and he merely said if they don't want to check prices on things and pay what he's charging  then it's their problem, as in buyer beware,   What a way to do business.

We have swap meets at our club. Interesting to note that.   Those buying think the firearms being sold are worth half of what they're selling them for. Those selling think the firearms being sold are worth twice as much as they paid for them.   Go figure.....