Howler

I tried to buy a couple lowers from them about a year or more ago and they wouldn't sell just the lower. I wanted the Knoxville stamp on sequential lowers for my kids builds. The TGO lowers/uppers will have to do. :pleased:

Thanks for the info, guys. We've had a couple houses get broken into around us. One house was hit while the owners were in bed. That takes balls!!! The subdivision put together a neighborhood watch. A female officer that was sent from the sheriff's dept was asked if you could shoot a person that breaks into your house. She said "NO".  The woman that asked the question seemed  frustrated when she was told to call 911 and hide. The frustration was not so much from the fact that she wants to shoot a human but that she felt her hands were tied. I suspect the officer is told to discourage using a weapon, but I don't know that for sure.      Our alarm is always set but I just want to add another layer of security. I don't plan on sitting up at night waiting for something to happen. Having a recording of what happens and when it happens is just a tool. A neighbor used trail cameras to catch three guys that stole his atv's. One of the thieves lives just across the street and is already out of jail. Go figure.    

Thinking of installing cameras around and inside the house and I don't trust the star ratings on the web. Have you bought one that you liked or disliked? What do you recommend?

Her momma told her to always use protection. She obviously didn't know what momma meant.

Before you go any further make sure the relay is the same as the OEM. Look on the side of the relays and see if there is a wiring diagram. Make sure it is exactly the same. Don't take the parts guys word for it.    It looks like a regular four wire relay. Two wires will supply power, one will be a ground, the other will be the wire that carries the voltage when the contact of the relay closes. Trusting that it is the correct one, do this. Unplug the relay. Make sure (with the key on) that you have a full 12v on two of the wires. One of the hot wires will be from the battery and one will come from the ignition switch.  With the key now off, use an ohm meter to check resistance between the relay ground wire and ground. The resistance shouldn't be very much. A few ohms at most. No K ohms or M ohms. It's been my experience that when a relay is clicking fast that either the ground for the relay is bad or there isn't enough voltage to keep the relay contacts closed or the relay is bad.     I had a vehicle the other day doing the same thing. I found that the ground wire (where it was bolted to the body from the factory) was loose. It was causing an intermittent starting problem on a car that was 9 years old.

Bersa, a $700 timing belt could be a result of having to install idlers, tensioners, and a water pump. Should one of them fail it could cause engine damage. Some shops won't replace a timing belt without replacing the rest of the driven parts.   Nothing wrong with marking your parts. But I have to ask, how many parts have you caught people not putting on?  Car dealers and their service area are crooks? I'm gonna give you a slow loud clap on that one. You are the first man I've ever seen screwed by every mechanic in every dealer of every manufacturer. Do you realize what a ridiculous statement that is?           .

This is just a general statement and not directed at any one person. You can complain all ya want, but show me a doctor, lawyer, judge, carpenter OR mechanic that hasn't made a mistake and I'll call them a liar. If you expect every person you meet to be perfect, well, you are expecting too much. A tech working in a busy shop gets pulled ten different directions at any one time. Things happen and I can assure you that most mechanics are more disappointed that it happened than you are.  If you can do a better job I recommend doing it yourself. But don't get mad or complain when you are charged to fix your mistakes. What most people don't know is this- A lot of the independent shops bring your car to the dealer without you ever knowing it. The dealer fixes it and the independent shop returns it to the owner and charges a little more. It happens!  Try fielding calls every day and have Bubba asking "I got a code bla bla bla. What's wrong with this thang?" And then go back and remember exactly what you were doing before. 95% of the time all is good, the other 5% can cause a headache.     These topics piss me off because there are good mechanic and bad mechanics (kind of like gun owners). There are bad mechanic in good dealers and independent shops, and there are good mechanics in bad dealers and independent shops. Not every shop and mechanic is perfect but that doesn't make them all terrible people. If a dealer/mechanic steals from you call them out and start a post about it.     I'm going to start a stupid driver thread.    I had an owner get mad at me the other day because he drove his vehicle with the oil light and "NO OIL PRESSURE STOP ASAP" text display on. This caused the engine and turbo to seize.  When the service writer asked me to talk to the customer on the phone he started off with a " I know a lot about cars". If that were the case then he would have pulled over immediately.  So all drivers must be stupid, right? No! The guy made a mistake. He tried to get to the next exit and it cost him. The guy at Mini made a mistake and it cost him. He saved the parts in hopes you would return. He more than likely got a butt chewing once you left. Smart people can make a mistake but dumb people keep making the same mistake. Not that it helps the OP but he probably won't let it happen again.  

posts on here. I"ve been to the last couple and now I'm hooked. There's got to be a few guys/gals on here that shoot it.

^I would like to know this also.

I knew I didn't have any cars around me. The animal was KIA. No matter what I would have done he would have been killed. Just glad he didn't get into the radiator. It got filled alright.

Driving through Athens last night, cruise set on 70mph, eyes scanning for deer. Driving in the right lane with no cars behind me or in front of me . With that being said, the next two seconds was nothing more than a high speed dance. I see a flash coming across the left lane. I hit the brakes and do a hard swerve right and then a hard swerve left aiming for the hind parts of the dog. HE. Made. It. But for some reason the coyote decided to shoot back into the left lane. Who was there? Me...in a new company car. BANG!!! New bumper cover and trim on order. No matter how prepared you think you are it can still happen.

That you Ricky Bobby?

That seems way high. Eastern coyote usually are around the $20-$40 mark. Fur from the south east isn't the most plush. Where did you get this info? I might have to do some skinning next year. Now if you are talking about mouse fur, then yeah, $100 sounds about right. lol Suckers are hard to skin.

This dog was killed during a contest. The wood block is set in the mouth right after the kill. A random word or code is given to the hunters just before the hunt starts. That word is written on the block and placed in the mouth of a freshly killed coyote. This keeps people from cheating during the contest. The tape is used to keep the block from falling out of the mouth while the coyote is being dragged out of the woods. If the jaw locks you can't get it back open. I've never hunted a contest and never really wanted to, but I don't have a problem with it either. I've trapped a bunch in the last 6-7 years. I'm not heartless, mean, or psycho. I've helped friends and farmers keep their pets and livestock and I don't regret it for a second.

Deer are very tough animals. Back in the summer I had a little buck walk through my back yard. His back leg was broken and every time he set it down it made a loud crunch. Several of my neighbors have seen him since and seems to be doing well. A deer would have to be real bad for me to "put it down".    I called TWRA last year and received permission to put down a small buck with a broken back. He was in a ditch and every time a vehicle passed he tried to pull himself into traffic. (because it was the only direction he could go) It's the only time I've killed a deer and felt bad about it.

Troy Alpha rail and Daniel Defense LW barrel is a nice little combo. Most people that have picked mine up notice how light it is. I was going to build my second one almost the exact same way but then the TGO lower deals developed. Now I want to scrap the second build and move on to the TGO 300BO build.

I had a chance to zero a 10 year old kids 10/22 today. All the kid had was 15 rounds of ammo so I was doing what I could without waste. Telling the guy shooting beside about how low on ammo I was getting he stated that he had plenty. I then asked, "how in the world do you have all that 22lr." His reply, "my brother works at Walmart and put it under the counter for me."  :down:

I thought that in Tennessee you have the right to resist an unlawful arrest. I don't remember if I read that or was just told that.

The wife and I watched the movie last night. The place was packed! We were there 25 minutes early and had a hard time finding seats.

173....Mike said he was going to put some stuff together for me to look at, makes, models, prices, and such. He just hasn't got back with me yet. Before I buy I'd like to get some first hand testimonials.   digger...Thanks, going to look up the Whisper now.

I want to start the process of buying a suppressor for a future 300 blackout build. I have zero experience with them and am needing some input on manufacture and models. I'm not looking for anything super tactical. This will be used to hunt with and shoot paper and that's all.   I've done the searches and watched the youtube vids but can't really tell much about them. I understand some guys manufacture and sell their own but I don't know anyone personally. I need you guys to recommend the suppressors you like and who you recommend buying one from.  

The wife and I both have had the flu for the last week. SUCKS!!!

Take it step by step. The ECM will adjust injector duration at all temps. The colder it is the longer the ECM keeps the injectors open. We are talking just milliseconds.  The colder it is the more fuel you will need. No different than adjusting a choke on an ATV or mower. The smoke being "dark grey" could just be the effect of the extra fuel that is correctly being added by the control module. Oil smoke will be a blueish color and fuel will be blackish color. The color of smoke is sometimes hard to tell apart. On a 2014 vehicle if the fuel trim is adjusted out of range (by the ECM) for reasons like a vacuum leak, leaking injector, or faulty sensor of some kind the vehicle will more than likely set a CEL/Service Engine Soon light.   If the smoke continues to roll keep an eye on the oil level. If you believe the you have a noise caused by low oil pressure have the truck taken via a rollback.   A lot of engines will be louder during very cold temps. Piston slap caused by lack of oil on the cylinder walls can cause it. A bad exhaust manifold gasket could cause it. It could be a number of things. If it's bad enough to worry ya take it to the repair shop and leave it overnight and show up early the next morning and start it with the mechanic. If he's worth a flip he won't mind.

Hate to say it but it happens all the time. My neighbor had two taken ten yards from her back door. I do the same as DaveS and mark them "TWRA PROTECTED". It's worked so far.

I'm not worried about finding ammo. At some point it will come back and I have to make a decision. Do I want to keep the gun and find a better hunting round OR do I sell it and buy a 300 blackout barrel and shoot fox and coyote with a suppressed subsonic round. I bought the 22 mag just to use in small areas where the noise from a large caliber rifle might cause panic.