IT BROKE !!!!

[BJB]

hEY gUYS. Iam kinda new to reloading. At this time I am loading 270wsm. Last night I loaded 25 rounds and started to load another 25 tonight when the pin on my resize die (the one that removes the primer) broke.

Why???

can you buy just that pin???

I was not doing any thing different tonight then I did last night

[timcalhoun]

You can just buy the pin no big deal (buy extra ones and have them available for the future). It happens usually when something is in the case that shouldn't be. But sometimes they just break.

[titan14]

Yes...you can buy the pin...and....who the hell knows why anything breaks??

[gregintenn]

It happens, and like Tim said, go on and buy two or three. They aren't expensive, and the shipping will be about the same on one or three.

[buck1032]

First, yes they can and will break from time to time. Second, PLEASE ensure your cases are Boxer primed. Are you using any range pick ups? Handloading your shot cases? Are all the cases the same manufacture?

[gregintenn]

I haven't seen any 270 WSM with Boxer primers.

[buck1032]

I haven't seen any 270 WSM with Boxer primers.

Ahh, Greg... I am hoping you meant to say you havent seen any Berdan primed cases.

[LngRngShtr]

Greg I think your thinking of Berdans Primer 2 flash holes which will break decapping pins without a problem..

BJB if I had a nickel for every pin I have broken,.. might be able to buy another set of dies... I have extra pins and decapping rods onhand,.. its not a question of IF but WHEN this will happen You can order just pins and rods from most reloading suppliers just make sure they are from your die maker... RCBS and LEE and LYMAN have a different way of going about their die making so they won't interchange...

now if you get a case stuck in the die,and someday you will.... a spare rod is also handy to have... there is a technique for getting the case out by using the rod and the set nut depending on your die maker... no need for all this drilling and tapping folks seem to think they need to do...but it can be hard on the rod and lock nuts post a pic of your die and I can walk you through the process I use..

John

[gregintenn]

Ahh, Greg... I am hoping you meant to say you havent seen any Berdan primed cases.

Yep, read one thing, thought another. Sorry.

[buck1032]

Yep, read one thing, thought another. Sorry.

I see I am not the only one that happens to. LOL

[lowbud]

ok, i really gotta get my mind out of the gutter.. move along. nothing to see here.. lol

[Rightwinger]

Help yourself out and get a Lee universal decapper and de-prime everything with it and save wear and tear on your sizing dies. Also helps the cleaning process as you can decap, then tumble with the flash hole exposed for some cleaning, then re-size.

[BJB]

Thanks Gents; I will call Midway today it just REALLY PI**ED me off when that happened.......I was on a roll:tough:

[enfield]

Most any local store that carries reloading supplies will have the decapping pins.

That was good advice about the stuck case remover - you'll need it someday.

[gregintenn]

If you don't have a bullet puller, go on and add one of those to the cart as well. These are things you will need only a few times, but when you want them, you'll want them NOW!

[Rightwinger]

Did you lose your vise grips Greg? I can loan ya mine if you need to clean up a mistake buddy. I'm here for ya. LOL

Good advice, I need to get a puller myself but have been really lucky with my loadings. Using a single stage and not going outside the standard loads for most things has saved me from most errors that would cause me to have to pull a bunch of bullets. I generally have more issues getting my re-sizing dies set up correctly and set back a few shoulders as I get them dialed in. Toss the messed up brass in the collection bucket and move on.

[Dolomite_supafly]

If you really want to save your brass seperate the FL sizing and the neck sizing operations. Buy a Lee Collet die for your caliber and a Redding Body die for your caliber. It adds a step to the process but it makes destroying brass a lot harder. You use your neck sizing die only until your brass starts to get a little sticky on chambering then use the Redding die to size the body.

If the rounds are to be fired out of numerous guns then you will have to FL size as well as neck size every time but by seperating the operations it still makes your brass last a lot longer.

The problem with most FL sizing dies is that they shrink the neck beyond what it needs to be then pulls a mandel back thru it. This excessively works the case mouth causing them to crack prematurely unless you anneal. And even if you anneal it can still cause problems. Neck sizing only squeezes the neck down to the right size, not way down then back up.

One more thing, look at getting a Hornadt Lock-N-Load die conversion for your press. If you can use the smaller 7/8" as well as the larget 1 1/4" you can use the conversion. It allows you to set your dies once and then you will never have to touch them again. The conversoin is like a quick discconect and works great. I use it on my Lee Classic Cast single stage. It definitely take all the time out of setting up yout dies.

Dolomite

[LngRngShtr]

I just separate my brass for each rifle and use a sharpie to mark the casings, especially if more than one goes to the range that day...

Springfield gets a line, P-17 gets a cross, 03A4 only uses LC MATCH , other Springfield gets a primer colored in, etc.

Most are boltguns so the M-1 brass is easy to spot but gets marked with a peace sign ( I was young and it seemed funny at the time, you know , "Peace through Superior firepower" ).. and for FL sizing,.. I back the die out until it FL's enough to work in that rifle,..minimizing brass working also I polish my mandrels with FLITZ and lube the necks it seems to help BTW the .303 Brit is a lost cause if you FL 3 loadings and out on that cartridge..

3/4 FL for semi's ( I only have the M-1) and neck size the bolt guns with a partial FL ( as described above) about every 4th. loading, which is when I trim them..