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S&W k frame help


mudstud

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I have seen something that is trying to brain wash me into bring it home

a S&W 357 K frame SS I was so I guess in lust that I did not get the model

number.The guy at the shop said it was a old LE gun.It was a little rough some

nics and scraps but I dont mind them for the price it is.I need some help

on some things to look out for on this gun how to tell if it needs to stay at

the shop.

THANKS TGO

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You need to call back and find out the model number. Probably 65 or 66. Did it have fixed or adjustable sights? What was the barrel length, what did they want for it, combat grips or rubber, …. Etc.

There are no bad Smith & Wesson stainless .357 revolvers.

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A model 66 is more desirable with adjustable sights. Model 65 had fixed sights, a v-notch and raised front sight.

Check cylinder lock-up. Does cylinder have alot of play. Check inplay of cylinder, move alot fore and aft.

Check bore for good rifling and no rust. Cock hammer and psh forward toward cylinder, if it drops no good.

Check for any gaps between cylinder crane and receiver, is it sprung.

Cock hammer back and see if cylinder locks-up each time, do it six times. Try pulling trigger to check double action pull.

It should be smooth and fall with enough force to ignite primer.

If it passes above, should be okay/safe.

Good luck!!

Edited by lshel
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What shop was it...and if we both left at the same time who would get there first? :-)

For the most part...WYSIWYG with revolvers. If it isn't obviously bubba'ed and it seems to be in time you should be good. Look for a split at the top of the barrel where it meets the cylinder (forcing cone). Also look for excessive play in the crane (arm that holds the cylinder. Make sure it fires both DA/SA and make sure the cylinder is locked up without being able to rotate when you let the hammer down on all chambers of the cylinder. Check for no rust in the barrel (stainless can rust believe it or not) and make sure the crown of the barrel has no cuts or problems.

That is about it. If the owner is an old timer he should know all about those guns. They are truly the pinnacle of .357 revolvers. There are newer guns, but they don't carry quite as well as the K-frames ever did.

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Most of those LEO and security company guns sometimes look rough on the outside but shoot just fine. Don't ask me how many K Frame S&W's I have had, it would be embarrassing. I have only one now that is a Mdl 10, but is chromed. Anyway, I suspect if the gun is 300.00 or less and feels good in your hand as you slowly cock it on each cylinder and when the hammer is all the way back as if you are DA shooting and cylinder doesn't move much the gun is likely OK. The thing to look out for is excessive wear to the forcing cone. That is the part of the barrel that sticks through the frame and is close to the cylinder. IF the edges are nice and clean and pretty sharp the gun has seen little use of hot magnums or aftermarket owner file work. Also look at the top strap just above the forcing cone on the frame. There is likely to be a little flame cuting, but if it is like halfway through the top strap then someone has been shooting hot handloads. Again, a little cutting is OK, and that will likely be the case. Generally under normal use there will be some flame cutting but it tends to stop and doesn't get any worse in one lifetime. Those stainless S&W .357s will last several lifetimes. If it is in your budget, buy it, shoot it. And if you want to slick it up a bit I can give you a couple of elementary tips.

Craig

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LEO turn ins are notorious for a rough finish, yet rarely fired condition. Years of banging around in a holster on car doors and donut shop booths. If the action works correctly, and the forcing cone isn;t cracked, jump on it. I would suggest you not shoot a steady diet of 125 grain loads in a K frame 357. 158 grain loads will be fine, if you can stand them.

  • Like 1
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I've picked up several K-frame trade-ins over the last few years and have had absolutely no problems with any of them. I got a rough looking SS Model 66 that had the smoothest trigger I've ever felt on a revolver. It initally looked like warmed over crap, but after a little cleaning, it looks like a lightly carried gun. It's very tight and has rifiling that looks as good as any new gun I've bought.

It's really hard to go wrong with one of these. I keep looking as they appear, never know when the next really great one will show up.

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I missed out on it had to work late Monday and they sold it.Went by when i got

off today and as I walked in the guy said i am sorry its gone.But he said that he had another

one in the back that he was waiting on parts for so I am going to try to go after it as well.A little

more for this one tho $ 375 the last one was at 265 I cant stop kicking my self

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Just wait, I was in a local shop that had so many DA revolvers that were trade ins I was about to go crazy they seamed like such deals. They had a Colt Det special that seamed like a steal for $300. So many K frames I couldn't even look at them all. There'll be more come around.

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Just wait, I was in a local shop that had so many DA revolvers that were trade ins I was about to go crazy they seamed like such deals. They had a Colt Det special that seamed like a steal for $300. So many K frames I couldn't even look at them all. There'll be more come around.

Where is this paradise?

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^GT Distributors. It's in Rossville, GA but they can transfer that day to TN

Was in there less than 1 hour ago....no revolvers worth mentioning, but right now they have practically NIB Gen 3 glock 19s for $350...blue label with 3 mags. I spend way too much money there!!!

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