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My dream 10/22 (target version) just about complete.


timthetoolman

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Let me know how you like that charging handle. I've been throwing around the idea of getting one.

 

I've got the KIDD charging handle group on one my 10/22s also; it does indeed seem to run smoother. Note that it's not a captured assembly, just a bit tougher to get in there, have to be a bit careful not to put crimp in spring.

 

- OS

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I've got the KIDD charging handle group on one my 10/22s also; it does indeed seem to run smoother. Note that it's not a captured assembly, just a bit tougher to get in there, have to be a bit careful not to put crimp in spring.

 

- OS

Yeah I have read about them. I just wanted someone else's opinion on just how much smoother it made the action. Thx.

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The one running in my "black" 10/22 seems smoother than the one in my target version with the Kidd trigger.  The bolt in the black gun was polished and what not by yours truly, and Im not sure it that is making the difference or the fact that the Kidd trigger hits the bolt and cocks a little differently than the stock VQ modified trigger group in hte black gun.  

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Just purchased that charging handle...now I'm debating on the KIDD "trigger job"....$109 for a few small pieces of metal  :ugh:

 

 

I cant guide ya there, I got the whole drop in adjustable trigger for this one.  The other gun has a VQ trigger parts kit, and I am very happy with it for the 40 bucks it cost.

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Currently I have only 3 10/22s, all with Ruger polymer trigger housings with Kidd Trigger kits  (got them when they were on sale for 89.0 each).  If you have a stock Ruger metal trigger housing the most cost effective trigger job is to put in a Volquartsen hammer - period.  I have tried the whole kit, the Power Custom kits when the VQ kits were out of stock, etc.  They are all a waste of money in my opinion.  The best thing is a VQ hammer in a stock metal Ruger trigger housing, which should get you a shade at or under 3lbs.  Metal Ruger trigger housings have quite a bit of variance, so you can only approximate unless you buy and fit oversize pins, which requires fitting the pins and then you have to open up the trigger and sear holes, which is a PITA. In a stock polymer housing the best trigger job is to put in a Kidd kit. This will get you a pretty clean 2.5-2.75lb trigger. Once and only once did I buy a complete custom trigger housing, a mistake I will not repeat.  I also have a jig that allows me to cut a stock trigger and sear to improve trigger pull.  This is a slight PITA.  The Kidd kit in a Ruger poly housing is the way to go. Ruger poly trigger housings have more consistent specs than the Ruger metal ones.  Once I put a 300.00 barrel, 275.00 trigger housing, 100.00 bolt and other stuff into a 10/22.  I will not do that again. 

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Currently I have only 3 10/22s, all with Ruger polymer trigger housings with Kidd Trigger kits  (got them when they were on sale for 89.0 each).  If you have a stock Ruger metal trigger housing the most cost effective trigger job is to put in a Volquartsen hammer - period.  I have tried the whole kit, the Power Custom kits when the VQ kits were out of stock, etc.  They are all a waste of money in my opinion.  The best thing is a VQ hammer in a stock metal Ruger trigger housing, which should get you a shade at or under 3lbs.  Metal Ruger trigger housings have quite a bit of variance, so you can only approximate unless you buy and fit oversize pins, which requires fitting the pins and then you have to open up the trigger and sear holes, which is a PITA. In a stock polymer housing the best trigger job is to put in a Kidd kit. This will get you a pretty clean 2.5-2.75lb trigger. Once and only once did I buy a complete custom trigger housing, a mistake I will not repeat.  I also have a jig that allows me to cut a stock trigger and sear to improve trigger pull.  This is a slight PITA.  The Kidd kit in a Ruger poly housing is the way to go. Ruger poly trigger housings have more consistent specs than the Ruger metal ones.  Once I put a 300.00 barrel, 275.00 trigger housing, 100.00 bolt and other stuff into a 10/22.  I will not do that again. 

Good info for the thread...you and I have discussed this before.

Edited by Ramjo
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Thanks, this one took me almost 15 years to "justify".  I mean let's face it, there's not a whole lot of use for a 22LR bench rifle, but now I know what my limits are too.  And I feel like its a pretty good practice rifle.  Now if decent 22LR would only find its way back onto the shelves I would be all set.

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