I Need some HELP from CAR guys.

[LenoirGunner]

I am looking to add some serious horsepower for my vehicle, but I want it to still be quite manageable.  I am looking at a supercharger. But I can not seem to find a kit that includes everything I would need (injectors, tuners, hoses, intercooler, supercharger, belts, filter, everything.)

The engine I am attaching this too is in my 2000 ford expedition 2wd with the 4.6 L V8.

This is a good solid truck already, just needs some extra umph when climbing steep grades, or towing a trailer. I am just looking to add around 100hp. Enough that it is noticeable, but not so much that it is breaking tires loose anytime I hit the gas.

Thank you for all your help, just trying to get some ideas. Price is lower the better. Not really looking to drop 6k into a vehicle worth 4k. But I will be happy to take a look at what ever you find.

Thanks again folks.

[2.ooohhh]

What is the status of the rest of the engine?

Do you already have a good free flowing exhaust?

Have you tried a slightly more aggressive cam profile?

Software tunes?

 

 

 

 

I dropped an E303 cam, some ceramic coated long tube headers, flowmaster exhaust, and a custom tune in my 2000 Ford Explorer(5.0) and made really good gains per dollar spent. (around 45 horse at the wheels)  All of the parts were intended for a mustang but none required serious modification to fit my explorer other than some firewall massaging to clear the headers.

 

 

Don't get me wrong I've installed several supercharger setups, but they are rarely worth the investment if you only want a little bump in power.

 

 

If you have over 100k miles I would start by replacing the injectors with a fresh set. Can make quite the difference in power on systems with more injectors in each bank.

[jgradyc]

I have a Bully Dog computer chip on my 2001 Dodge Cummins diesel. The HP boost in towing is very noticeable. Installation is a lot less labor intensive than what you're considering. I'd ask around in some truck forums and see what others are doing with the circa-2000 Ford 4.6 V8. You might get some good ideas.

[hkusp40cal]

Also if the engine is high mileage (or even low) you will not be able to slam a ton of boost into the motor without upgrading to forged internals(or course that depends on the stock CR).  Not sure on the fords but most engines today to 10-1 or higher which limits the amount of boost you can put into the motor without the possibility of damage.  If stock I wouldn't really want to go more than 8-10psi.  ATI offers complete kits with everything you need.

 

http://www.tobefast.com/procharger-ford-f150-suv-pr-10001439.html

[Patton]

I used to be a huge car guy but kind of lean the more practical way. How about selling it and buying something different?

[peejman]

What they said. Look into a chip, cold air, cam, exhaust.... Or even a whole different vehicle (diesel?). Blowers are fun but pricey.

[Good_Steward]

What is the status of the rest of the engine?

Do you already have a good free flowing exhaust?

Have you tried a slightly more aggressive cam profile?

Software tunes?

 

 

 

 

I dropped an E303 cam, some ceramic coated long tube headers, flowmaster exhaust, and a custom tune in my 2000 Ford Explorer(5.0) and made really good gains per dollar spent. (around 45 horse at the wheels)  All of the parts were intended for a mustang but none required serious modification to fit my explorer other than some firewall massaging to clear the headers.

 

 

Don't get me wrong I've installed several supercharger setups, but they are rarely worth the investment if you only want a little bump in power.

 

 

If you have over 100k miles I would start by replacing the injectors with a fresh set. Can make quite the difference in power on systems with more injectors in each bank.

 

Excellent advice, however, exhaust manifolds tend to make more torque than headers in my experience, though headers make higher RPM HP. 

[2.ooohhh]

Excellent advice, however, exhaust manifolds tend to make more torque than headers in my experience, though headers make higher RPM HP. 

 

The best gain from quality coated headers in my experience is from the drastic reduction in under-hood temps. I don't generally count HP on my projects but I've had a few where others were curious enough to cover the cost of my dyno runs.  :woohoo:  I spend a great deal of my time concentrating on thermal management especially on my swaps and turbo builds. Getting heat out of the engine bay and the block always makes it easier to make more power with what you already have.

[AU_88]

Excellent advice, however, exhaust manifolds tend to make more torque than headers in my experience, though headers make higher RPM HP.

Torque is what he needs. For towing and getting up hills you should be concentrating on torque.

[Sam1]

You're going to spend more money on doing forced injection (either turbo or blower) than you would if you sold the truck and bought one that better fit your needs.  here's an example of what I paid on my cobalt ss (and it came form the factory supercharged already).

 

Upgraded to TVS 1320 blower, injectors, tune, exhaust, intake, clutch, extra gauges, additional cooling mods (not counting incidentals required) cost over $5000

 

Upgraded to GT3076 turbo, new exhaust (manifold, downpipe and dump - used the same catback), FMIC, piping, pulley modifications, reversed alternator, new intake, tune cost over $4000

 

Have to remember that this engine was already set up for forced induction from the factory, when you try to blow into an n/a car, your costs are going to be much higher and need many more parts to get it going. On top of that, you'll lose a lot of reliability even with lower psi levels. Also if you have an automatic trans, you can get into a mess with that without a lot of work if you're going over the rated levels.

 

So now you're looking at probably an honest $5000 +/- $2-3k after all is said and done to get an extra 100-200hp and make your vehicle less reliable.

 

IMHO, I would sell it and buy a diesel if you need something for towing for more reasons than just the cost savings.

[decotriumph]

I'd forgo the supercharger and go with an RV type cam, K&N air filter setup and torque-specific chip.

[Tempest455]

A motor like yours that's been cared for should be able to tolerate 8 lbs no problem. I did the exact thing you did but went with a Vortech centrifugical (for other reasons). For towing, a screw type like a Magnusun would be a better choice. They make boost right off idle. In either case, they will add a significant amount of torque.

 

http://www.magnacharger.com/

[blizzard]

You're going to spend more money on doing forced injection (either turbo or blower) than you would if you sold the truck and bought one that better fit your needs.  here's an example of what I paid on my cobalt ss (and it came form the factory supercharged already).

 

Upgraded to TVS 1320 blower, injectors, tune, exhaust, intake, clutch, extra gauges, additional cooling mods (not counting incidentals required) cost over $5000

 

Upgraded to GT3076 turbo, new exhaust (manifold, downpipe and dump - used the same catback), FMIC, piping, pulley modifications, reversed alternator, new intake, tune cost over $4000

 

Have to remember that this engine was already set up for forced induction from the factory, when you try to blow into an n/a car, your costs are going to be much higher and need many more parts to get it going. On top of that, you'll lose a lot of reliability even with lower psi levels. Also if you have an automatic trans, you can get into a mess with that without a lot of work if you're going over the rated levels.

 

So now you're looking at probably an honest $5000 +/- $2-3k after all is said and done to get an extra 100-200hp and make your vehicle less reliable.

 

IMHO, I would sell it and buy a diesel if you need something for towing for more reasons than just the cost savings.

I agree with Sam1. It wouldn't be very cost effective to supercharge or turbo your truck. You would come out better selling your truck and putting it with your supercharger money and buy something that fits your needs. Tell you the truth, I don't believe a 13 year old ford engine could handle the boost. Not on any kind of regular basis. Thats why you see so many boosted cars for sale on CL. You can't just go boosting any old car without strengthening the internals. They weren't built for it. You start kicking in that supercharger and that engine will start to come apart. Like stated by someone else, a good RV  cam, exhaust,and filter should give you what you want with not a lot of money invested.Probably not what you wanted to here but just being honest.

[Murgatroy]

To boost your truck, you are looking at MINIMUM $5k to have it done reliably.

 

Cheap, reliable and fast. Pick two.

 

You could go CAI, full exhaust and tune for 50WHP, that is noticeable, but you are still looking at $2k high end for brand new parts.

 

To be honest, as a 2WD, the fastest and easiest way to get the butt dyno going would be to gear it. Put something like a 4.10 gear in the back, watch your mileage drop through the floor and have plenty of usable power. All for <$500 installed.

 

 

 

 

 

However, the best advice, mentioned above, is something I give out on my automotive forum all the time. Sell it, and buy something that suits your needs better, or bite the bullet and dump lots of cash into it that you will never see again.

[LagerHead]

You're going to spend more money on doing forced injection (either turbo or blower) than you would if you sold the truck and bought one that better fit your needs.  here's an example of what I paid on my cobalt ss (and it came form the factory supercharged already).

 

Upgraded to TVS 1320 blower, injectors, tune, exhaust, intake, clutch, extra gauges, additional cooling mods (not counting incidentals required) cost over $5000

 

Upgraded to GT3076 turbo, new exhaust (manifold, downpipe and dump - used the same catback), FMIC, piping, pulley modifications, reversed alternator, new intake, tune cost over $4000

 

Have to remember that this engine was already set up for forced induction from the factory, when you try to blow into an n/a car, your costs are going to be much higher and need many more parts to get it going. On top of that, you'll lose a lot of reliability even with lower psi levels. Also if you have an automatic trans, you can get into a mess with that without a lot of work if you're going over the rated levels.

 

So now you're looking at probably an honest $5000 +/- $2-3k after all is said and done to get an extra 100-200hp and make your vehicle less reliable.

 

IMHO, I would sell it and buy a diesel if you need something for towing for more reasons than just the cost savings.

 

Another vote for Sam. The first thing I thought of when I read your post was transmission. They are expensive to rebuild or replace, as you most likely already know, and the last thing you want to do is add so much power your kill your stock one. My advice would be to talk to a shop that does this kind of thing for a living and let them guide you. 

[Patton]

I don't know if you care about looks, but putting smaller tires than what came stock would help some. It will be a lot like regearing.

[nightrunner]

As previously stated going blown requires at least $5k usually more. One of the main things to remember is the extra strain on the transmission, it will let loose sooner or later if you add 100+hp

[plinker4life]

Or do a drivetrain swap out of a wrecked 99-04 lightning or supercharged Harley truck.they also have the hd tranny. I myself have a modded 2000 Lightning makes plenty of power for hills. Last dyno was around 370 at the rear wheels. Only running 10 lbs of boost.

[Murgatroy]

Or do a drivetrain swap out of a wrecked 99-04 lightning or supercharged Harley truck.they also have the hd tranny. I myself have a modded 2000 Lightning makes plenty of power for hills. Last dyno was around 370 at the rear wheels. Only running 10 lbs of boost.

His truck being an easy 1000+ lbs heavier probably already has the HD tranny, which again, would mean nothing hauling all of that extra weight.

[plinker4life]

Then it's shares the same tranny as the diesel f250's 4r100. Then it should have no problem with a extra 100 ho. Too bad it's not a 5.4 though.

[Murgatroy]

Then it's shares the same tranny as the diesel f250's 4r100. Then it should have no problem with a extra 100 ho. Too bad it's not a 5.4 though.

Wikipedia lists the 4R100 and the 4R70W as the transmissions for that year.

[Sam1]

Or do a drivetrain swap out of a wrecked 99-04 lightning or supercharged Harley truck.they also have the hd tranny. I myself have a modded 2000 Lightning makes plenty of power for hills. Last dyno was around 370 at the rear wheels. Only running 10 lbs of boost.

 

 

You know, that would probably be about the same cost, maybe a wee bit more (not sure on the specific conversion requirements) but it would definitely be one hell of a lot more reliable than his current set up with a blower on top.

[dlm37015]

nitrous oxide gas give it a shot of instant horsepower

[plinker4life]

Or do a drivetrain swap out of a wrecked 99-04 lightning or supercharged Harley truck.they also have the hd tranny. I myself have a modded 2000 Lightning makes plenty of power for hills. Last dyno was around 370 at the rear wheels. Only running 10 lbs of boost.




You know, that would probably be about the same cost, maybe a wee bit more (not sure on the specific conversion requirements) but it would definitely be one hell of a lot more reliable than his current set up with a blower on top.

Your probably right on the cost. And I also look at it as DIY also. So back to the fact he could find a diesel excursion for the same $$ he will spend modding plus the value of the expedition. That's the way I would go but watch out for those 6.0 motors..

[nightrunner]

A 7.3 diesel excursion would be perfect for what you describe. Add a programmer and you have tons of power and respectable fuel mileage