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Ruger MK III Opinions?


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I found the mag disconnect kept my mags from dropping free. I installed the kits crait recommended and now they shoot out. Also the loaded chamber indicator insert makes the gun look better.
The trigger on mine is very light (bought second hand) but no mods were done before I got it. So I cannot speak to it having a better trigger after the upgrade.
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There are a lot of video's of it on youtube.  I think tandemkross also has a video on their site.

Right... I know there are quite a few videos on UTube, but I just thought a series of close up, high resolution, pics of the mods and dis-re-assembly process would be highly beneficial to anyone that wants to mod or "deep" clean their Ruger MK series pistol. I think a tutorial, with high resolution pics, would be much appreciated. What do the rest of you think?

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Right... I know there are quite a few videos on UTube, but I just thought a series of close up, high resolution, pics of the mods and dis-re-assembly process would be highly beneficial to anyone that wants to mod or "deep" clean their Ruger MK series pistol. I think a tutorial, with high resolution pics, would be much appreciated. What do the rest of you think?

 

More stuff is always good but its not that bad and I doubt this is really needed at such an in depth level.  The actual design of the gun is super simple.  Its just a #$%^ to get it apart and back together, and half of THAT issue is that unlike more modern designs, you CAN assemble it wrong in such a way that it does not function, resulting in a repeat disassembly and reassembly, which gets old.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since this thread was started I have acquired a MK lll 22/45 Target model... which I have disassembled, cleaned, and successfully reassembled. I also bought a NIB MK lll Hunter yesterday, and shot it today. I liked the way it shot, and believe I'll leave it unmodified for a while, until I have shot it more. I put around a hundred rounds of mixed ammo through it, and it fired it all flawlessly. I'm a happy camper. Thanks to all who have offered advice and information. This one's a definite keeper. Looking forward to some hunting with my "Hunter" this winter...small game that is.

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I have the Ruger Mark III 5.5 inch bull barrel... it's a good gun for training on a 1911 style gun, and it's good for training beginning shooters.  It would also make a pretty good Steel Match gun, or any type of "target" style competitions...   That being said, it is a b*tch and a half to take down...  The stainless cleans up pretty easily, but taking it down makes you want to throw the thing across the room.... and then you get it taken apart, and then it's even worse getting back together... (at least until you know what to do to get it back together)   I've shot mine quite a bit, and it does have an occasional stove pipe, or double feed, but that will happen with any .22lr action (except revolvers)    

 

It really depends on what you're wanting the gun for.  You're not going to be able to carry it around very easily, even for just a "woods walk" type gun, it's a heavy beast of a gun, and long...  But if you want a gun that you can center punch the bullseye from 10-15 yards, then this is the gun for you.

 

 I would also take a look at the Ruger SR22, and the S&W 617 revolver (expensive but very nice) 

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Mine is about worn out believe it or not.  Can just barely see a hint of rifling now.   I think I may just buy a new gun instead of a barrel though.   Barrel is nearly $100 and I would like a new lower that accepts target grips; mine is the plastic 22-45 that cannot be modified and since I shoot this one weekly I want to get better grips on it.  Time I did both of those things and replaced various other worn parts (extractor, etc) it would cost about what a new one does....   what do you guys think? 

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 06:32 AM

I've ripped the mag disconnects out of a dozens of MKIIIs and replaced them with standard MKII bushings or this guys machined product.  I took the LCI out of several also.  I used this guy's product to fill the gap where the LCI went in mine.  I just don't like all the gunk that accumulates around the LCI.  If you replace replace the sear and trigger with VQ parts you will drop your trigger pull to a clean 2.75lbs.

 

This part more accurately replaces the space of the mag disconnect in MKIIIs 

http://www.tandemkro...ushing_p_9.html

 

LCI replacement

http://www.tandemkro...nsert_p_16.html

 

http://www.tandemkro...Combo_p_34.html

 

These are nice replacement parts also:

 

Volquartsen triggers (adjusts for over and pretravel)

http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2

 

http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2

 

MKII bushing to be used in place of the MKIII mag disconnect apparatus: 

http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2

 

 

Volquartsen sear will do amazing things for your trigger pull

http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2

 

Awesome information Craig ! 

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Mine is about worn out believe it or not. Can just barely see a hint of rifling now. what do you guys think?


.22LR barrels can get leaded up (even with regular cleaning) & will look like the rifling has been worn out, the barrel probably just needs a really good scrubbing.
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.22LR barrels can get leaded up (even with regular cleaning) & will look like the rifling has been worn out, the barrel probably just needs a really good scrubbing.

 

I wish I could find some lead 22s.  All thats been out lately are fmj, and all it has had in the past year were jacketed.  I did get a little lead back when I could find bulk blazer, but that has been a long long while. 

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Jonnin, they're not really FMJ man, they are what is called "copper washed" which mind you does help with bore fouling vs std. lead bullets, but even those will eventually lead up rifling especially if you shoot them fast & get the barrel really hot w/any sort of regularity.

I use Hoppes #9 bore solvent & bronze bore brush, usually I'll scrub out a fouled barrel while watching a movie or something to keep boredom to a minimal since takes a bit of time & a lot of elbow-greese to clean out a really fouled bore.
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Jonnin, they're not really FMJ man, they are what is called "copper washed" which mind you does help with bore fouling vs std. lead bullets, but even those will eventually lead up rifling especially if you shoot them fast & get the barrel really hot w/any sort of regularity.

I use Hoppes #9 bore solvent & bronze bore brush, usually I'll scrub out a fouled barrel while watching a movie or something to keep boredom to a minimal since takes a bit of time & a lot of elbow-greese to clean out a really fouled bore.


I can relate to the cleaning issues, especially fouled bore on my 22/45. I've shot the heck out of it, and don't spend enough time on the barrel cleaning. It can be a real pain getting to that clean patch.
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Guest kschneider

i put in the majestic arms speed strip kit. it replaces the bolt pin with a threaded one. use and allen key unscrew the bolt pin, pull it out through the top then just pull out the bolt. makes cleaning the barrel and chamber so much easier. barrel don't need to come of as often and this does not help with this.

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Mine is about worn out believe it or not. Can just barely see a hint of rifling now. I think I may just buy a new gun instead of a barrel though. Barrel is nearly $100 and I would like a new lower that accepts target grips; mine is the plastic 22-45 that cannot be modified and since I shoot this one weekly I want to get better grips on it. Time I did both of those things and replaced various other worn parts (extractor, etc) it would cost about what a new one does.... what do you guys think?


Put a new PackLite upper on the frame. Or better yet, buy a new gun and sell me your old lower cheaply and I will put a pac-lite on it. :)




Yup.
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Guest kschneider

Kschneider... thanks for the pic. Beautiful gun and beautiful grips. Two questions... where did you get the grips, and how much did they cost?

well they are from Altamont grips. they however would not ship them to Canada for me so i got them through Dr. FrankenRuger in Florida. I have since found a distributor in Canada, but you should have no problem buying them direct. Dr. FrankenRuger has some good stuff also.http://www.altamontco.com/experimental/products/pistol/ruger/

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Put a new PackLite upper on the frame. Or better yet, buy a new gun and sell me your old lower cheaply and I will put a pac-lite on it. :)




Yup.

 

The lower is going to be stripped, since my vq trigger and gizmos are in it and those can be saved.   I may or may not still have the original sear etc, they were pretty bad when I replaced them.    I went back and did the barrel deep clean just to see and as expected it had some buildup and all.  All polished up, its still shows a lot of wear, probably good for another year or two but I think I will still do a rebuild or replace in the next year or so.

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I had a 22/45 bull barrel that was one of my favorites until some punk broke into my house and stole it. Only reason I haven't bought a replacement yet is because of the .22lr ammo shortage.

 

Out of the box (no cleaning, no lube) I put about 2500 rounds through it before I ever cleaned it - so I was pretty impressed with its reliability even with the changes from the MKII to the MKIII.

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