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I_Like_Pie

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Everything posted by I_Like_Pie

  1. I like those!
  2. Hunter Bob vs. G.I. Joe vs. The Punisher
  3. Ed's Red CLP Moly grease I use a lewis lead remover for lead Use outers foul out anode for copper That is all I will ever need.
  4. The study was great in intent and I am sure very fun to perform, but like peejman I am not sure if it accomplished much with respect to a controlled study. He left a piece of steel out in the elements for 14 days after blasting it with a nasty primer. Do people consider water corrosive?...let it sit on one of those plates for 2 weeks and see what happens.
  5. Resale shops also have the muffin tins that are great for ingots. One thing I also have handy is an old hammer handle that I use as a tapper. Dowel or hickory works wonders to get the sticky ones out. I also ALWAYS have a towel there with me in case I get sweaty. Wipe my brow with it so that i don't drip into the pot...water is a scary thing to have anywhere near that pot.
  6. They mention this on their website and literature because some people will, upon buying, be genuinely upset that it will not cycle a semi-auto firearm. They won't, but they are otherwise 100% fine to shoot in any 22lr chambered gun.
  7. Awesome
  8. You guys ditch yours after 3000+ rounds!?!?!? Holy smokes I have some walnut media I picked up at the pet store that has 10,000+ with life still left. Dryer sheets and nu-finish car wax must work wonders cause I could make 3 pounds of media last for a decade. Vibratory tumbers take a couple of hours minimum to make the brass look new. Rotary tumblers take a day or so. 30 minutes is barely enough time to mix up the cap full of wax.
  9. Yeah...no kidding. It isn't milk. shoot em.
  10. It is, by all practical reasons, the same as reloading a bottleneck rifle cartridge....Brass life and all other peculiarities apply. Good thing is that 357 sig brass is cheap and easy to come by. That being said I would be interested to see what type of glue they are using...one would think that neck tension would be enough, but how would one test a sealant that would prevent bullet setback without creating dangerous overpressures? I know the factory does, but do we really know what they are using?
  11. There have been two of them go though a well known TN classified service just this week for $350 ...for the walnut american version. Wal Mart can still get anyone who can buy one a CZ trainer with the birch stock and non mauser sights for well under $300 out the door...ask for their order catalog.
  12. $400 or so will get you a CZ 452. Go to ANY (don't believe me....try it) silhouette rimfire competition in the US and see what people are shooting. If you count 1000 rifles...700+ will be a CZ 452. You may stumble across something better if you are lucky, but by far the most consistent bet is the CZ
  13. Wouldn't really want to, but a 25-06 would drop a moose 100% of the time with a zone shot. But would you really want to? .458 solid and I would still be a bit nervous if I wasn't already 25 foot up a tree.
  14. Let's not forget that the OP is looking for "all round". The mention of .25-06 and 243 is about perfect for this. .25-06 is actually a very capable elk cartridge and the .243 is perfect for deer. The real versatility and reason that these are "all round" cartridges is that if you are not busy smacking big game they can be loaded up with light bullets for varmint control. 270 and 30-06 are great....so is 7mm-08.....but they are not multi purpose in that you wouldn't want to spend a day smacking chucks with a 270 25-06 can suit up with 70 grain bullets at 3800fps for a perfect flat shooting chuck round or it can also load up with 117 grainers at 3100fps for elk...with a 275 yard point zero good from 0-400 yards! 243 can do the same thing to a slightly lesser degree with the same 6mm high sectional density bullets that have dominated benchrest for decades. That, my friends, is the epitome of a "all round" cartridge. Either one of these calibers + a shotgun/22 long rifle will do 100% of anything asked this side of the mississippi.
  15. Moly Resin is the way to go....have probably used a gallon of the stuff over the years (that is a lot!) and it has never let me down. It + Parkerizing is the best finish you can put on a gun aside from metal plating of various forms...IMHO
  16. If someone out there has a new in box Gen 1 17....I will throw $500 faster than a hot potato.
  17. This isn't a big deal at all. Many manufacturers carry inventory in warehouse for years at time. Ruger used to be pretty funny about it....4 or 5 years in some cases. S&W does it...I have a 442-2 that cataloged as 10 years old before they sold it. Remington has done it before with many of their guns also...Nylon Apache models sold through K-mart were a decade old. You were sold a new gun.
  18. I_Like_Pie

    New Toy

    Same here...FTF when the edge of the hollow point was catching on the edge of the barrel ramp. It was throated and polished from the factory. Adjusted OAL on my ammo and it works fine. 200 grainers are often tricky in 1911s. Chip McCormick mags pointed the rounds higher in the mag and they also worked fine.
  19. I don't know why, but that guy just rubs me the wrong way. Maybe because he breaks practically every gun rule I have spent trying to teach people about gun safety.
  20. People buy a 10-22 because they are inexpensive, easy to work on, and with nothing more than a proper barrel and trigger work will shoot as good as a $1200 target rifle.
  21. Ditto....Mine looks the same way. May be a crimp shim in the transition from steel barrel to aluminum frame. May be just where it naturally bites into the threads. Either way...I have two airweight j-frames and they both look that way.
  22. I have about 40 different calibers of reloading dies...Eventually I come across a trade or buy that will require I use them. No telling how many calibers of brass are boxed up.
  23. Yup...sad thing is that if he survived then the defender would be slapped with a civil lawsuit. Rather be sued than dead, but that is exactly what would happen.
  24. They appear to be the williams sights. Take the factory rear sight out and replace it with that one...they work very well and are inexpensive. Peep sights almost always > regular iron sights.

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